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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I'ts not really "below" book. $6,000 is private party retail pricing for a V6, and actually about $1,000 too much for a 4 cylinder car. The high mileage requires at least a $1,500--1800 reduction in price from listed book value.

    The car might be fine and have some life left in it, but at 140K all parts of the car are vulnerable to failure. Best to have it thoroughly checked out. Look for oil leaks, signs of exhaust system failure and shock/strut failure (typical at this mileage) and be sure to play with all the knobs and switches...ALL of them!
  • hi quikjab,

    I have 2000 accord EX v6, just would like to share my 2 cents,

    I have driven it upto 129000 miles till today, major maintenance to me after 100000 miles
    1. alternator
    2. timing belt + water pump
    3. tires - all 4 replaced
    4. replace brake pads - all 4
    5. problems while turning so drive shaft or greasing work was done.
    6. Please drive the car at night and see if all dash board lights turn on properly and you can see readings.
    7. getting hold of manual and reading it before hand would be good idea in order to learn what big maintenance is due in future or near future..

    just my experience but I am sure seniors here will guide properly..

    Thank you for reading..and good luck
  • I love my '98 coupe. Shortcomings are it is hard to see out of, toward rear, and mine suddenly started getting less than 10 mpg at about 120K miles with no help from Honda or any mechanic so far. That is why I posted on this site. EG its not for sale. I would go with the other advice and get it checked out by independent mechanic, should cost about $100 and include compression test. My transmission went out just beyond warranty (50K?) but Honda replaced it at no cost to me. so that particular one might be vulnerable. Good luck. PS I still need help with my mysterious 10 mpg. Dr Punchout.
  • cmykalcmykal Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Honda Accord V6 coupe which I've had for the past 2 years. The engine started vibrating about 3 days ago. I had the spark plugs replaced, the engine was still vibrating. Is this caused by bad sensors, manufacturer ignition system problem (p1399), or bad motor mounts?
  • You might want to have the codes read to look for a "misfire" trouble code. Generally speaking, if the engine is idling slowly in neutral, bad motor mounts wouldn't show up very much---unless they were just about broken---in which case you'd feel this while driving.

    So I'm guessing that you have perhaps a misfire, or a vacuum leak that is messing up the fuel mixture?

    See if a quick scan will reveal anything.
  • cmykalcmykal Posts: 2
    I recently had my vehicle tested under one of those code scanners, the scanner read one code which was p1399 which stated "manufacturer ignition system"? Like you said, it could be a misfire or vacuum leak. If by chance it's a misfire or vacuum leak, how much a repair job like this would cost?
  • Gee hard to say, Could be something quite simple really. Probably most of the cost is the diagnostic time.
  • The drivers seat on my 2dr has excessive movement that is comming from above the upper half of the seat track. I have about 1.5 inches of movement when pushed at the headrest. The sliding track has the proper clearance but I do not know the cause? I did notice that the movement is from the area of the seat track that the seat motors are attached to. Any help would be appreciated
    Thanks,
    Dana
  • zakimanzakiman Posts: 71
    I'd like to get some input on two questions before I start repair:

    The dealer told me that my front engine mount is starting to crack. I changed the brakes and rotors on Nov 2008 at a honda independent shop and they did not mention anything about the front enfgine mount.
    I looked at the mount and did not see any cracks. Does anyone know how to diagnose this problem and how to I know if I need to replace the mount.?
    Does the crack appears more in the rubber piece or should I look somewhere else?

    Also they mentioned the brake pads sensors ( on the front ) were installed upside down. They said the sensor should be on the top not the bottom. Is this a big deal if it is the case? I assume the independent honda sho installed them correctly, well maybe I shouldn't assume anything :-)

    I greatly appreciate any feedback,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have only a limited time to reply, so all I'll say is that engine mounts and brakes aren't two things that would normally be looked over at the same time, so the fact that the people who did your brakes didn't see it is a moot point in my personal opinion.

    Also, engine mounts do give out over time. I imagine one of our illustrious edmunds posters would detail the procedure for checking them.

    Best regards,
    the grad
  • zakimanzakiman Posts: 71
    That sounds good, I'd love to get some feedback about the front engine mount question and the front pads sensors.

    Like I said, the mount looks fine to me when I looked at it, I did not see any cracks unless the rubber is worn.

    The fact that the pads sensors are on the bottom may not be a big deal ( just my guess). Because the service advisor told me , well when your front brakes are worn then the sensor will not let you know that. Geez, my front pads lasted 150K miles, so by the next time I need new brakes, it may be time for another car :)

    The engine mount problem is making me a bit concerned though!

    thanks for your time & sorry for my rant!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The wear indicators (on the pads) should be on the top part of the pad, but it's not a big deal. Are you experiencing excessive vibration? A sign of broken mounts.
  • zakimanzakiman Posts: 71
    > Are you experiencing excessive vibration?

    You mean in the engine or the steering wheel. No I am not experiencing any vibration at all.

    the front engine mount is the one on the right side of the engine, correct?
    Because there is another mount right where the transmission and the engine meet, I assume that one is the tranny mount.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would think the front motor mount is the one closest to the front of the car (I may be wrong). If you want to test the engine mounts, you can do this. Get someone to stand to the side of the open hood (not in front, you don't want them to get run over), and watch the engine. Put the car in gear, hold the brake down firmly, and give the engine a little gas (very little). If the engine moves a considerable distance (rocks over on the mounts), the broken mount will be obvious. If you are not getting a lot of vibration, and the engine doesn't move around during the test, I would not worry too much about the mount at this time.

    PS: I just noticed you have a manual, so you may have to use the emergency brake to do the mount test.
  • I too have a similar loud, constant, rumbling noise problem coming from the left rear side of my 2006 Accord EX. The noise begins at about 20 mph and heightens when going 50-60 mph. I know it is not exhaust related because the noise remains loud and constant when I shift the car to Neutral at 50 mph. I am of the belief I have a bad rear wheel bearing. The car shifts smoothly so I don't believe the noise is transmission related. Besides, the noise is clearly coming from the left rear side of the vehicle.
    What was the source of your noise problem?
    Thanks.
  • Hi All.

    I am new to this forum and would like some guidance and input from all you experts. 3 days back I bought a 01 EX-V6 Accord which has done only 70k miles. It is single owned and maintained immaculately so far.

    Just two days back I learnt that 2000 & 2001 Accords have had many transmission problems. Apparently Honda has a 7yr 9month / 109000 warranty on transmissions because of this. Even though I have only 70k on my car, I only have about 4 months left on the warranty for the transmission. How will Honda Customer Service behave on the warranty clause when the time (7yr 9 month) is up, but if I have still not done the 109000 miles. Will they be flexible if some transmission problem comes up ?

    The dealer tried to sell some warranty, but I refused to buy it at the time of purchase. I cannot go back and buy it from him now.

    Do you all think I should / can purchase some warranty from some one. If so, can you all suggest some reasonable price / plans. I am in a dilemma. Thought a used Accord will be less of a headache among used cars. Please advise.

    Thanks.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    Hi guys. Sorry to disturb but am kinda distrubed right now.
    I have an accord 1998 model. When not in motion and the car is idling, the rev meter regulates.
    As in it drops below 1000rpm and then steadys to 1000rpm.
    This happens continuously and my check engine light is not on.
    What could be the problem of this drop all the time? The car is moving well and fires well.
    Am kinda disturbed because its so usual. Have had the car for 2 years now and the mileage is 120k miles.
    Please any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Obi-TL
  • Might be a slight vacuum leak, or the idle air control valve (IAC). But check for vacuum leaks first.
  • AZIZ16AZIZ16 Posts: 2
    I HAVE A VEHICLE HONDA EX V6 YEAR 2000 I WANT TO KNOW IF IT IS POSSIBLE TO ADJUST A GAS LPG PARALLEL TO THE ENGINE :confuse:
  • I have a 2001 Accord coupe 4cyl,5spd manual trans. My "maybe" problem is that when I start the car after it is cold it runs and sounds normal for 3 minutes. Then it starts sounding like lifters or something is not being lubricated. After running about 5 minutes and warming up fully the sound dissappears. I have had the car checked by both Honda and an independent mechanic who cannot determine what it is but they indicated that they did not think it was serious. It sounds very much like lifters that are not being lubricated but noone said that. It has been that way since I bought the car used a year ago. If anyone has any thoughts I'd love to read them.
    Thanks, Baja Joe :confuse:
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