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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Raprider, I have a 2000 V6 Accord 4-Dr with similar problems. Intermittent problem for last two months. It would stall after a warm start and run rough till it clears and runs fine for days, if not weeks. Then it would happen again, and I thought it had something to do with the gas cap or bad gas. Local Firestone shop can find no problem, couldn't recreate. Took it to dealer and they recommended replacing all 6 fuel injectors, EGR valve, cleaning intake ports etc, but had the disclaimer that this would take care of the problem with 98% success but it could still happen again. Needless to say I had no confidence in this but did change the EGR valve and it ran fine for a week. Several entries in this forum showed similar failures even after following the advice of EGR replacement, fuel-injector cleaning and intake manifold ports etc.

    Spaman made an entry (#10930) in June of 2005 that suggests his wife had a similar problem and "We finally changed the electronic board that controls the spark plug firing ($200) and it solved the problem." That makes me hopeful but I want to make sure this indeed is a correct solution.

    I'm new to the forum and don't yet know how to contact a member and so hopefully this will get the word out. Anyone had this as a solution?
  • I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 199,000 miles. It runs well. I never did any maintenance to the transmission. I last changed the timing belt at 95,000 miles. I was wondering if I should change it again or put the money towards another Honda? How many miles can I reasonably expect from this car? Thanks for your help.
  • kevman3kevman3 Posts: 30
    Thats a great run, getting 200K. I personally would probably move on before putting much money into it. I found a 2001 Accord 5 speed manual 4 cylinder with 53,000 miles, 1 owner, for 6K. Am loving the car for commuting, getting 33 MPG highway. I plan on piling the miles on this baby.
  • anrianri Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My mechanic tells me that transmission fluid is leaking from my car and that there is a crack in the case. The transmission will have to be replaced and it will cost $1700. I have a few questions:

    1. Since I already have 126K miles on the car. Is it even worth to spend that much money on transmission replacement. Cant I just keep refilling the fluid as it gets low?

    2. If I do get it replaced. Is $1700 a reasonable price? What warranty I should get along woth that?

    3. What price I might get if I trade in my vehicle as is? (I spent $1650 on the car last year for the 105K miles sevice)

    Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
  • Hi. Our 2006 Honda Accord (V-Tech six cylinder) has started making a metallic scraping noise when driving as if a metal strip were dangling from underneath the car. It occurs randomly, but seems more prevalant when curving right.
    After looking under the car and finding nothing, I thought about the brakes at first, but it occurs while cruising as well. Speed is not a factor and we actually hear it better moving slowly through residential areas.
    Sure would appreciate some input on this.

    Thanks,
    bassmark2000@yahoo.com
  • Was one of the tires recently removed and replaced?

    It's common when removing a tire to lower it before it fully clears the thin metal shield behind the rotor. They can be easily bent and will rub the rotor. When you make your right turn, the rotor tilts ever so slightly and makes contact to shield.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When brake pads are worn out, they make a metallic scraping/screeching sound when the brakes are not being applied. Check the pads. :)
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    You can replace the light behind the odometer. It's just like the light that burns out for the clock. Buy the light and follow the instructions on the forum below:

    http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/odometer-lights-327164/
  • Hi all. Please i need some help. Where can i get free VIN reports for honda accord cars. All the sites am lookin @ are all asking for pay. Can anyone be of help to me. Thanks.
    Obi
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    No free lunch there, unless someone here would volunteer to do this for you on their account, which THEY pay for. It's actually pretty cheap to do this. Sometimes the dealer or seller will do this for you if you ask.

    MODERATOR

  • The car starts and idles fine but when trying to take off it sputters... Had someone look at it and replaced the timing belt, balance shaft belt, belt tensioner, distributor, fuel pump, rear wheel bearing and hub assembly. still doing it HELPPP..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    Well that was a BAD GUESS wasn't it?

    Someone needs to read the trouble codes first off, then do the basics of cleaning the MAF sensor, throttle body, checking the EGR, checking for vacuum leaks, and of course the obligatory tune up. Also switching gasoline and using some fuel injector cleaner is not a bad idea.

    MODERATOR

  • Not my Guess ,I want to trade a 96 S10 for it but I want to know if it could be fixed with out a big bill!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,421
    I didn't mean to imply it was your guess.

    Without the proper methodical diagnosis, it's hard to say if it's worth it or not. Doesn't sound like a huge problem on the face of it.

    MODERATOR

  • Car started running rough and we received multiple misfire codes. we noticed the plugs were worn so we installed new plugs. we then decided to test the coils, the only read I can get of the three terminals is 1.7 to 1.8 K Ohms.
    we tested against a good running honda and new out of box coil. seem to be in range.
    Any Ideas or sugestions?
    Thanks, Kurt
  • I am also getting a Check engine, Fast Blink light.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Could be the crank position sensor. If you could get the OBD II codes read, that would help narrow the possibilities.
  • How can we test the crank position sensor, ware is it located or photo of location.
    e-mail kkaufman001@roadrunner.com if you need to send photo.

    Error codes: P0301,0303,0305,0306,1399

    Please advise
  • I understand the coils can test O.K. and still be failing to groung/Block through the coil shaft.
    one or more B.O. Coils could cause the error codes I am getting.
    Best Place to get OEM honda parts at best prices?

    Thanks, Kurt
  • O.K. Here it is.
    The Fix, One (1) Bad Coil.
    Had to run them in a known good working honda, One at a time to locate the bad one.

    Yes it was the last one tested. I know, Bummer. !!!!
    I have a 50K spray insolation I want to test on the old one just for the hell of it.
    I did replace with a new part and runs great.
    Well, Thanks for the support :)~

    Kurt
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