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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Today I took my '05 Accord V6 EX, with 15,000 miles, to the dealership, complaining about excessive vibrations when the car is idling, both in Neutral and in Drive (waiting at a stop light).

    If the dealership tells you the vibration is normal, it's not. My 03 EX V6 has 50,100 miles and it has never vibrated at idle (either in park or drive at a red light). From what I've heard, there is an engine mount adjustment TSB for vibrations. Good luck with the dealership service department.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    didn't mean to preach.

    i've been in other vehicles where there was so much illumination as to make it hard to drive the vehicle at night because it was so darn distracting. i really do feel Honda gets it more right than wrong and does a better ergonomics job than most other manufacturers.

    now i got your better half anectdote and see you going all-in: my wife has been caught using CC and sitting "indian style". OMG :surprise:
  • Scary. I wouldn't even do that. OOOOAAAAMMMM. Tee hee.
  • Thanks for the quick response -
    the noise when happens.... (not all the time) is like a clicking.... I do this 3-4 times let it rest - then turn the key and it starts ok.... I had the batery checked -and it is good...3 years old We live in Chicago area....so cold winters.... ????? rl
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    I think you're wrong, blane. The TSB is for the 2003-04 model Accord, not clear to me whether it's only for the I-4 or V6 as well, though, but still, it does not cover the 2005 model.

    Of course, there is ALWAYS some vibrations at idle speed, so this is kind of subjective, of course. But to me it seems excessive, especially for a V6, which is suppose to be smooth, smoother than an I-4, and especially when compared to our Sonata, which is an I-4.... The SM at the dealer said they will compare it to another V6 Accord, but I don't believe they actually did that.....

    That's one of the reasons I try to stay away from getting service at dealerships, you don't really know what they've checked and done to your car...

    But again, is an idle speed of 650 rpm normal for a warm engine (when in D or even Neutral)? I suspect that the cause of the vibrations is the low rpm. Shouldn't it be 750-800?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    IIRC, the correct idle speed range was 700-1000 for my 4-cyl Accord in my 1996, depending on how cold the engine is (a cold engine runs higher to help speed the warming process). 650 is pretty low, especially for a cold start.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    I sure wouldn't compare an '05 V6 Accord to a '96 I-4 Accord....

    And no, I'm not talking about a cold start, of course, I'm talking about a warm/hot engine, driven for a good while, rpm checked at a stop light. 650 is where the needle rests. And the vibrations can be well noticed when my hands lay on the steering wheel (I can also hear the engine).

    Com'on, V6 guys, look at your tachometer next time you're at a stop light....

    ...Thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    And no, I'm not talking about a cold start, of course

    Sorry, I didn't know. What I can tell you is that my 4-cyl 2006 Accord doesn't produce noticeable vibration at any point when idling. It sounds like, to me, you have a problem if the V6 (which is supposed to be smoother) is vibrating.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Ok, I checked it out tonight, and the engine does idle at 650rpm in drive at a stop light, and it goes up about 50-100rpm in park/neutral. Yes, you can tell the engine is running, but there is no vibration that could be called irritating. I suspect your engine mounts need to be adjusted.
  • Both of my sister's 05 and my 06 have the driver window squeak sound.
    My sister's had been fixed...not completely. It's just that loud as before.

    I haven't taken mine to dealer... because it only happens sometimes and I cannot make sure if they will hear it at the time I go there. (The dealership is kinda far from my house)
  • Hi guys!
    I just install an “Outside-Temperature Gauge” and its dosing work atoll, so I hope someone knows something to help me!
    Tank’s!
    :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    Thanks, elroy. I actually mentioned the engine mounts to the service manager when I took the car there, and his response was "engine mounts? Never heard of it as an issue with the Accord... Maybe with the Odyssey, but not with the Accord".... So I don't know, I read here that it IS an issue with some vibrating Accords....

    I'm going to visit a friend of mine who own the same exact car, but a year older (2004), and do an apple-to-apple comparison, before I challenge the dealer again. All I know is that this car vibrates more, significantly more than my 4-banger Sonata, both have the same miles on the odometer (about 15k). To me that doesn't make sense, but if both mine and my friend's vibrate the same, and that's the way Honda designed the Accord, so be it, I'd be willing to accept it as is.
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,721
    Are the steering wheels lights supposed to be subtle lit? or are they brighter?

    My 06 SE buttons dimly glow
  • blaneblane Posts: 2,017
    Does the vehicle (presumed to be a 2003) have fog lights?

    http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/03accord/tempgauge.pdf
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Supposed to be dim, so as not to distract the driver.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    That isn't much of a reply from the service mgr. I'd go as quickly as possible to another dealership (I presume you're under warranty and the guy is avoiding servicing the car).

    I think the engine mounts are adjustable. Geesh for that matter, and I don't know much about them, at least one may have a vacuum hose going to it to modulate it's "stiffness", so maybe the hose slipped off. Not positive, but saw one of these on either my '02 accord or '03 ody when i was under them yesterday changing the oil and filter. I can't remember which, I was busy avoiding the exhaust manifolds going into the CAT and my little ones were running around distracting me. Everytime I'm under either car though, I notice something else about the vehicles design and appreciate their engineering more.

    Anyhow, I had a '94 accord where a mount went. There is such a thing as a marginal part.

    So, like I said, the reply you got is reason (at least it would be to me) to seek service elsewhere.

    FWIW: my '02 accord I4 idles about the same as previously noted 600+ rpm with the AC off, and the vibration is noticeable but not significant. I think some is expected from an I4. My '03 ody with the V6 though idles very smoothly, more than once (when the surrounding noise level is high) I thought the engine wasn't running.

    Good luck.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I actually mentioned the engine mounts to the service manager when I took the car there, and his response was "engine mounts? Never heard of it as an issue with the Accord... Maybe with the Odyssey, but not with the Accord"....

    I find it hard to believe the service manager never heard of this. There is at least one TSB concerning this.
  • No, I know it is not possible to install them together.
    Tank’s for responding me
  • I followed the instructions step by step, but I didn’t disconnect the battery because I don't have the radio code....., I have the big Honda Service Manual and I check the sensor and its good, maybe the hole system need’s to reboot to see the new peripherals………..
    I
  • Hi, my sister has on 07 Accord and I am looking for seat covers, both front and rear. I've seen a number of sites online, but am wondering if anyone has any recommendations.

    thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If you have airbags in the seats, you'll need special covers to accomodate them.
  • Thanks. I don't know; I'll have to ask.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    It definitely DOES have airbags in the seats (standard in all Accords of that year). you don't have to ask. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have never actually looked for any, but I'm sure someone makes seat covers that will work with the airbags. These special fitted covers will no doubt cost more though. You can't just cover them (air bags) up with regular covers, that's for sure.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,629
    I looked into this a couple of times for my '05. If you do a search, you will come up with a few choices. Depedning on what material, and how custom, they can run $200-$250 for the fronts.

    Here is one place that seems to have a nice selection (haven't bought, so I can't vouch).

    http://gtcovers.com/

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • I bought a new 2007 V6 SE a little over a year ago. A few months later it started giving me major problems. If I didn't drive it every two weeks it would die, would not even start, no lights would even work! I took it to the dealership and they said everything was fine, well, its a 100 mile drive to the dealer. Over time the problem got worse, now if I do not drive it for 4-5 days it will not start unless I charge the batt. back up on a charger!! I have take the car two more times but they never find a problem, I really don't think they know what they are doing at this point and they have been blowing me off now. I am seriously thinking about writing a letter to Honda USA about this dealership. Anyway, here are some observations:

    Current drain at the batter when the car is OFF, all doors shut, no lights on, etc is 150mA. Is this normal? A different dealer told me 35mA is normal.

    If I disconnect the battery when I don't plan to drive it never had a problem, even after many days.

    With these two issues in mind I'm thinking there is a problem with the electrical system OR aftermarket alarm (KARR alarm) system.

    The dopey dealer claims they don't know how to disconnect the KARR alarm on any day of the week except Tuesdays. Guess what, I work full time and the dealer is 100 miles away.

    Can anyone help? Anyone had this problem with a new Accord? I bought Honda for reliability and so far my 1996 Ford Aerostar is much better!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds indeed like an electrical drain problem, and the aftermarket alarm is certainly a suspect (but it could be other electrical items as well). Guessing the dealer can only do Tuesdays, as that is when their alarm installer is there.

    Unfortunately the way to isolate the drain, is to put an ampmeter on like you apparently have already done, and start yanking the fuses to determine which ones have an impact. Somebody has to narrow it down to the bad circuit, and your working situation with the closest dealership 2 hrs away is obviously a problem. If you could get it down to the problem circuit, it would make your time at the dealership most productive....as they'd be in 'fix' mode, as opposed to 'diagnose' mode.

    Is this an alarm the dealership added, or somebody else?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,432
    is that really the closest dealer, or just the one you bought it from?

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i guess i too would be suspicious of the ckt the aftermarket alarm is installed on. they should be able to tell you that over the phone, and you should be able to pull the fuse for that and see if the drain is still there.

    one thing i'd do is bring the vehicle to an autozone or napa or other and have them do an alternator and battery test.

    its possible your alternator is bad, but the current draw of 150mA seems high. I would expect with everything powered down, it would be closer to the 35mA mark myself.

    say your bat was a 50Ahr bat. Dividing 50Ahr by 0.150A yields what 333hr or about 14days?

    unless you do as kiawah suggested though, you don't know what is contributing to the current draw. it could be a stuck window regulator, a stuck power seat, even a stuck relay.

    i suspect the alarm, i do, but you can do your own sleuthing by hooking up the ammeter, and pulling fuse by fuse till you find the ckt with the biggest current change when disconnected / reconnected.

    hope it helps.
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