Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
also, many tire shops give lifetime free rotation (and sometimes balancing). That can be worth quite a bit over the years, but again, you need to make a special trip to get it done. You can also get the road hazard warranty for a nominal cost, for piece of mind.
costco and BJs also do tires, and have very good prices.
As to brands, it depends partly on what your criteria are (aside from price). Do you drive in snow? Lots of rain? are you more interested in traction or a quiet ride?
I put yokohama Avids on my 2005. They work very well, but are not really highly rated for snow. Kumho also has some good deals.
On my Tl (same size) I got B.F. goodrich toruing TAs, and they have worked very nicely. very good deal too. From BJs.
You can go to Tirerack.com and read reviews on different models, and see how they were rated.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
As far as tires go, like the other reply said, I would go to tirerack.com and check out the reviews. My 2003 Accord came with Michelin Energy MXV4 tires that were very good in all conditions but they're not cheap (about $130 each when I replaced them at 55,000 miles). There are other tires out there for less than that which will do well for you (I just don't know what to recommend since I've always had good luck with Michelins). Tirerack.com has a lot of really good info, though. Good luck!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
A couple days though, a strange thing happened -- the light came on -- suggesting that the resistor isn't burned out and that their might be some other issue. The light has gone out again, but I think the issue may be either a loose wire, or it could be that I inadvertently reset the radio console somehow (this is an used car). What I did differently from the past was that I inserted a CD into the player, then turned on the headlights. I've used the CD player before but never in conjunction with the headlights (I've only had the car for a few weeks at this point). After about 10 minutes I noticed that the display light had turned on. I was able to turn the engine off and the radio display light came back on twice after stops of about 30 minutes. The next morning it appeared that the display was still lighting. However, two days later the radio went dark again, and I haven't been able to trigger the display light again (suggesting that maybe there is a loose wire -- or perhaps some other issue). Has anyone else with a 4-cylinder LX sedan 2004 experienced a similar issue? (e.g. the display light stopped working and then came back on?) Any ideas for fixes?
The owner's manual says to change the automatic transmission fluid at 60,000 miles!
Most of the cars I've had before recommends a transmission fluid change at 30,000 miles.
Should I change it ASAP or wait for the next 21,000 miles?
Also, when should I change the power steering fluid? The manual doesn't mention when it should be changed.
Thanks.
I'll sched an appointment to have the transmission fluid changed next month. I plan to keep my car until the wheels fall off or it gets stolen or totalled, whichever comes first.
Thanks.
I'm at 63,100 miles.
My question is this. What is the best way to do a transmission fluid change and get most of the fluid out and replace it with new? I have been the Ji%%y Lube route on other cars...please don't suggest that.
Two dealers say 105,000 ,or 7 years.
What is others experience?
A lot less of my Naval Reserve dinero that a new Acura TSX with the same 6M but a lot less power and about the same fuel efficiency (freeway).
No real complaints, ez....
for the person with the shudder that (no surprise) the dealer "could not reproduce", the best thing is for you to take the service manager/writer out and recreate it yourself, since you know when it will happen. Most likely they just had a tech make a quick lap around the parking lot, so of course it isn't going to do anything!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Taking the front cover off, to inspect the timing belt, should take less than 1/2 an hour, and cost nothing. Taking both covers (front and rear) and the bottom cover (which requires removing the crankshaft pulley (which sounds like a job all by itself), and changing the timing belt, will probably take me a full day, if not longer. If I decide to change the water pump, tensioner, and timing belt pulleys it will also cost about $300 for the oem parts. There is a BIG difference, between checking the timing belt, and changing it.
Changing the timing belt on the V6 is a lot more difficult than changing the timing belt on your 96 I4 engine. There is a lot less room to work, which makes the job that much harder. I think I could change the timing chain on my 4 cylinder truck in half the time (I've done it twice already). I doubt that mechanic would change the V6 timing belt for the same $400, unless he is your best friend.
Oh, and my local mechanic charged me $645 to the belt and water pump at 106k - car now has 145k and still running OK (though it has developed some, um, er, uh, "personality" as the mileage has climbed).
-FS
Oh - and its NY metro traffic, so the cylinder de-activation thingy ain't gonna work so good on my commute.
-FS
The owner's manual says 105k miles, or 7 years, whichever comes first. My car will be 7 years old in September, but I only have 80k miles. I plan to change the belt myself, and I don't want to remove all the covers, etc. to find a belt that has very little wear. I will remove the front cover (easiest to remove), and check the condition of the belt. If it looks as good, or better, than my drive belt, which is also the original, I will probably go another 10k miles (really depends on what the belt looks like at that time), Honda's 7 year time limit is IMO a very low estimate on how long the belt will last. I don't run my engine hard at all 90% of the time, and I don't live in an area where extreme temperatures are common. I've not heard of any 3.0 V6 timing belts failing early. I have read quite a few posts from owners who've taken everything apart, to find a belt that is barely worn at all.
I would NEVER advise anyone else to go beyond the 7 years, but I am willing to bet my belt will not break before I change it. I don't think it's a gamble really, as long as I check the condition of the belt, and not just assume it's in great shape. To each his own.
Good luck!
I bought a Honda because i wanted to avoid these high repair costs--especially at such relatively low mileage (75k miles), and I feel disappointed that I face such a high repair bill for what is supposed to be a reliable car; and my Honda has had all the maintenance done at Honda dealerships but I am currently quite upset with the dealer's quote of $695 and I am looking at possibly getting the repair done at an independent shop (there's a repair shop in my area that specializes in Honda/Toyota so I'm going to get a quote from them).
Has anyone else had problems with their Accords front shocks leaking fluid and needing replacement?
Many people will insist otherwise, but that's usually because they have no basis for comparison. Since shock absorber degradation is so gradual, it's hard to notice the deterioration unless the shock absolutely collapsed--which they rarely do. Once NEW shocks are put on, the difference becomes apparent.
75K is a lot of bouncing up and down through potholes and who knows what else.
Did the dealer show you the leaking fluid? I would get a second opinion. :shades:
I will definitely get a second and third opinion (I am awaiting for their repair estimates)--if their prices are good, i think i will have my tires changed, alignment, and front brake pads changed too (hopefully save some money for these maintenance services compared to doing it at a dealership).
Also, not sure if the dealership is desperate for money...but I have always changed my cabin air filter at the 30K mile major service...I had my 60K major service done back in late June 2009, and my most recent visit (75K) the service adviser says my cabin air filter needs to be replaced soon...I have been driving the same streets/freeways for the past 6 years and all of the sudden my cabin air filter gets dirty so fast? Do you think I should just ignore them and just get my cabin air filter replaced during my next major service (90K)? What's the worse that can happen if the cabin air filter gets too dirty?
If there is road work in the area, it could easily increase the dirt in the filter. I've always changed my own filter (easy, no tools required $20), and I have never left a filter in that long (30K). My filters are usually too dirty for me by 15k miles, but our situations may not be the same. In the owner's manual, there should be instructions on how to check the filter, if you want to see for yourself.
Don't put anything on but the honda shocks, a friend of mine had a
2000 accord v-6 for 320,000. Changed the front shocks with Monroe or some other good brand and the car didn't ride correctly. He immediately put on Honda standard shocks on the front and the ride was correct again.
Get quotes with them using original honda shocks or buy then and
take them to them. I am in Northern Colorado.
Starting with the 2003 and later, the cabin air filter is a cinch to check and/or change. If you want to see a demo, check out Youtube. How often you change it is really up to you. Is the pollen / dust severe in your area? I change mine every 6 mos or so.
Based on the messages posted earlier, I will definitely insist on the repair shop using Honda brand shocks.
I viewed the Youtube video on how how to replace the cabin air filter and it is indeed a simple procedure; I went ahead and ordered a Fram cabin air filter via Amazon.com--I look forward to changing out the cabin air filter this weekend....
First question: what is the difference between a primary and the secondary (rear) oxygen sensor?
Second question: how do I know if my engine is a CA standard one? the car was sold originally in NC, it says it is a LEV but under the hood it says also CARB standard. if I install an oxygen sensor not CA standard on CA standard engine, do I risk something?
Thanks for your help!!
When he put my car up the lift he could tell for sure my rear shocks were dry (no fluid leak) and he mentioned that it looks like the front shocks could be a little wet; then he lowered the lift to the height of his head and using his flashlight he determined it wasn't wet--it was just the undercoating that looked shiny--he scraped a little bit of the area below the shock and it was dry (we looked at this together). So in the end he said my shocks don't need to be replaced, but I should change my tires soon (his shop doesn't sell tires).
So in summary, either the Honda dealer I usually go to tried to rip me off or they had an incompetent or rookie technician misdiagnose that my front shocks were leaking fluid!
I think from now on I will use the independent Honda shop to do my maintenance and repairs (they only use Honda factory parts)--the customer waiting area is no where near as good as the Honda dealer...but at least I know I won't get wrong diagnoses and super-inflated repair prices....
also, I plan to buy new tires for my Accord from tirerack.com, and based on reviews, it looks like the Michelin Primacy MXV4 ("V" speed series) is one of the best choices. I could order the tires from tirerack.com and have it shipped directly to a local installer to mount and balance the tires (prices are published for each local installer and the prices seem reasonable). Has anyone bought tires directly from tirerack.com and had them installed using a local installer?
Monroe isn't a particularly stellar brand of replacement shock. Tokico is one of the OEM suppliers and is probably a better OEM/aftermarket choice. I have also had good luck with KYB GR-2s on my last Accord.
If you like Michelins (and are willing to pay the premium for the brand), you might also check out Costco stores as they have a tire department that carries the brand. You can also usually get Sears to price match Tire Rack. That said, I have had good luck ordering tires (usually r-compound race tires) from tire rack and having them mounted by a local installer. Once I established a relationship, I could have the tires drop-shipped there.
Actually Tire Rack allows us to order tires and have them shipped directly to many local installers--they even rate the local installers (based on Tire Rack customer ratings). The independent auto shop technician I mentioned in an earlier post advised me that the only problem with ordering from Tire Rack is that if there is anything wrong with my tires, the local installer could blame Tire Rack and vice versa, so he advised me to ask if the local installer can match Tire Rack's prices and buy the tires from the local installer instead--but i doubt that they can match Tire Rack's prices.
Plus, if you get a road hazard warranty, you don't have to deal with a mail order place, and wait for replacement tires, etc.
I actually go tires once at NTB (which happens to be a TR drop ship place and official installer), and when I showed them the TR price, they agreed to match it. But, what they ended up doing was ordering the tires themselves, and having me come back in a few days when they arrived. I ended up paying the TR price, but got the NTB rotation/balancing and RHW package.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Michelins are def $$$. I have your exact tire on my 2007. It is a great tire. I have Kumho KH16s on my 2003. They ride just as nice, but don't handle quite as well (but cost @ 1/2 as much). I do recommend having your new tires force balanced. Tires make a huge impact on how the car drives and you're going to live with them for quite a few miles. Some installers offer to exchange if you don't like the tires within a specified time/miles (might be a reason to consider local retailer). Doesn't hurt to ask..
Thanks SO much in advance.
1 Make sure all electrical items (A/C,audio unit,defogger,lights, etc) are turned off.
2 Start the engine,and let it reach its normal operating temperature(cooling fans cycle twice)
3 Let the engine idle (throttle body fully closed and all electrical items off) for 10 minutes
How long does the battery need to be disconnected before-hand, I wonder?