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Comments
Response much appreciated.
The other question is how does Houdini know that the starter has to be replaced before winter?
I just looked at the service manual and it says the intake manifold has to be removed to gain access to the starter. I verifyied by looking at my 04 Accord and yes, the starter is behind the intake manifold. I can't tell for sure if it can be sneaked out somehow, but if it can't, then a good chunk of the $725 is going to be labor removing/replacing just the manifold. The starter only has a couple of bolts and could easly be replaced if the manifold wasn't in the way.
Mrbill
Don't know why people want to take the hard route all the time. Oh yeah - profit!
Be green and save money at the same time. Replace the brushes.
In this Economy....CASH speaks volumes.....
There is a took on the Car Talk website to help you find a reputable local mechanic: Car Talk Mechanics File
Here is an article from Edmunds on Corner Garage vs. Dealer Service Department
As someone shopping for a used car now, I'm much more inclined to buy one that has a well-documented Carfax showing the car was serviced regularly by a dealer. If the current owner took the car to an independent shop, I have no idea whether that shop knows what it is doing or not.
As for parts, I've made the mistake of buying after-market struts instead of OEMs, only to have them fail in 25,000 miles. Did I save money? No, I spent A LOT MORE than I would have just by going to the dealer in the first place.
I want someone who knows my car inside and out, but I don't have to pay dealer prices to get it!
"Let the buyer beware" would truly seem approprite in this case.
ez
I buy the Honda blessed parts (Majestic Honda or HandA parts online) and fluids (local dealer) and install them myself. The car now has just north of 60k, the coolant has been changed twice, the brake fluid changed twice, the belts and hoses show no cracking the rubber still feels newish, and is about to get its first set of new tires next week.
Every 18 months or so, I have to spend a Saturday afternoon removing and installing maintenance parts and fluids and taking the old ones to our recycling center. So far, this has been much much cheaper than the dealer and the time investment has been relatively minor.
I keep all my service records and receipts and mileage for each service. When I am ready to move on from that vehicle, it will either be 1. worthless, or 2. traded so I am less worried about the impact of records that say Honda on them. There isn't any box on the KBB or Edmunds price guides that says "not serviced at dealer" to deduct value from the vehicle.
The belt was still in very good shape. No crack, no sign of oil leaked onto the belt.
I think you can go at least another year. $1K sounds right for the timing belt job at Honda dealership.
Tires are actually a replace after certain # of years item too, not that anyone ever pays attention to that!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Here is a link to the recall announcement: https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Documentum/Recall_Press%2FRecall_Press_Release_000- 0024.pdf
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The sway bar and brackets was $60 and another $60 for the end links. The car seems to understeer less and feel more confident on turn in. The tires seem to support that with additional available grip. I can see some shocks and springs around the 100k mi mark and the car should be pretty zippy.
At 65k, that was its first set of tires. Its still on its first set of brakes (although the fluid has been changed 2x now, 30k and 60k). Trans fluid got changed with Honda MT fluid at 60k. The coolant has been changed at 30/60. Oil gets changed when it tells me to. Oil changes could be easier, but the car is reasonably easy to work on. No real complaints about that.
They start asking about the maintenance history.
My car has 79100 miles on it.
He says, "Have you replaced the serpentine belt it is supposed to be done at 60k?" No I haven't.
He says, "Did you do the 30k, 60k (90k) maintenace of tire rotation, clean fuel injectors, air cabin filter." I say no, this isn't the manual, but I rotate with each oil change.
Is the serpentine belt in all actuality, the drive belt?
My manual says the maintence minder will say when to INSPECT the drive belt, when to replace the air filters, replace the timing belt and replace the transmission fluid.
The manual says nothing about interval for cleaning the fuel injectors.
What schedule do you people follow?
Where are they getting this 30k-60k-90k program from? there is nothing in the manual.
From time to time I have used an OTC fuel system cleaner - usually LucasOil.
I hate feeling like the official dealership is giving me a run around....
I'd also inspect your various coolant hoses at this mileage, and check the driveshaft dust boots, and check the struts/shocks for leakage.
If you have the original battery in there, you might think about replacing that in 2012 whether it seems to need it or not.
VISITING HOST
I think the hoses, shocks, struts, boots, etc. will all be inspected by the dealer today as part of the "23 point checkup" that the car is undergoing. Thank you for the tips.
I already do rotate the tires on a regular basis and will look into replacing the cabin filter.
Is the Serpentine/Drive belt the belt that is (if looking at the engine in the car) the very obvious belt on the left hand side?
They sent me a coupon for 15% off up to $500.00 in service, parts, accessories (over the next year) that included a one-time $24.95 oil change/tire rotation and 23 point inspection. So I took advantage of that and had them look for the source of a newly audible sound that had me worried. The mechanic says my car is in excellent shape for the mileage.
I see your point on the service writer as a salesman with him attempting to sell me on an unnecessary drive-belt replacement and guilt trip me on the 30k-60k-90k extra tire rotations and fuel system cleaning....
I will certainly attempt the cabin filter replacement.
Thanks for the tips.
I just made an appointment to have this work done (dealer called me about it).
Basic info here:
http://www.automotive.com/2006/49/honda/accord/recalls/53945.html
The work is a software upgrade, and is free of charge. And that's all I know. I am guessing the module will be more likely to detect the transmission issue before it becomes a real problem, but that's only a guess.
Comments, anyone?
If it was me, I would reverse what I just replaced, and see if the problem with the blower goes away. If yes, then you know it's something with the new part.
Mrbill
I have an 03 Accord 4-cylinder automatic with 115k. There is a "whirring" or constant whistling sound originating from the engine compartment area when I drive over 60mph on the freeway. It is a pretty faint sound (for now) that is easily drowned out by conversation or by cranking up the radio, but it has nonetheless started to worry me.
I searched the other Honda forums on this type of noise and it sounds like the whirring noise is coming from a worn bearing on the idler pulley/tensioner assembly. Has anyone here heard of a similar sound? The sound occurs when I am stepping on the gas pedal and goes away once I take my foot off the gas. I'd like to get your feedback before I take my car to the shop. I'd like to add that my car drives fine with no other mechanical issues.
Thank you,
Yoshi :confuse: