Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

1170171173175176195

Comments

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,271
    I thought that when you put the parking brake on while the car was running the brake lights went on.

    Easy enough to find out I guess!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The pads should not be tight in the calliper brackets. You probably have rust build-up on the calliper brackets, making the clips tight against the pads. Take the pads and clips off of the brackets, and scrape any rust off. If you are using oem pads and shims, you should be able to remove and replace them with your fingers. If you need to beat the pads in with a hammer, they're way too tight. I may have saved a link, with a video on how to clean the callipers. I'll try to find it.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I just tried out of sheer curiosity and they don't illuminate when the parking break is applied and the engine is running.
  • Thanks for the advice! I did take them apart on Sat and cleaned/lubed the caliper brackets, backing plates and mounting hardware with a my rotary tool but I was hesitant to do much more than that.

    So you suggest focusing more on the caliper bracket as opposed to the backing plate? I plan on taking it apart again this evening and using some metal files to get the surfaces clear of the build up.

    If that doesn't work I'm going all out with new calipers and rotors though I'm not crazy about burning the money :cry:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited March 2010
    The backing plate should not be tight in the calliper. These are oem pads and shims right? If so, the pads and shims should not be tight in the calliper. When you install the pads, they should fit snugly, in the end clips, but you should not have to use much force. If you live in an area where they use road salts, the callipers could need cleaning as often as every 6 months. If you are using the old shims (backing plates), make sure they don't have any rust on them. Be sure to apply the moly-cote (never seize looking stuff that comes with the pads) between the pads and shims, and also on the edges of the pads, where they fit into the end clips. Do you have a service manual, that explains all this?
  • The pads are OEM. I do live in the North East and road salt is a factor. I have the Honda service manual but it doesn't go into any detail on how to combat corrosion.

    I did take it apart again last night and filed that caliper bracket/backing plates and the pads now slide with only a little drag. I lubed the sliders/contact points again with the lube provider by the dealer. I'll get the name of it and reply to this post.

    Thank you!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Hello -

    I recently got in contact with the body shop and they found that the cables leading from the handle to the latch were sticking (now I'm not sure if this was the bodyshops fault), but they lubricated the cables and installed everything correctly again anyway.

    Thank you for your advice.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I lubed the sliders/contact points again with the lube provider by the dealer. I'll get the name of it and reply to this post.

    Some people have used the gray/silver paste, that comes with the pads, to lubricate the slide pins, and say it works, but I prefer using calliper grease for the pins. I don't know if the paste works well on the pins or not. Sounds like you have the pads fitting right now, so hopefully it will solve the problem. Good luck
  • he8833he8833 Posts: 52
    edited March 2010
    I just had the rotors and pads replaced in the rear on my 2007 SEV6 Accord...However it seems now like the fronts could be slipping? When I come to a stop I'm hearing some kind of squeak I want to say from the front....Whats intresting is I had them replaced @ the local shop, but it was the dealer who first recomended getting the rears replaced, but didnt mention the front pads looked that bad?

    Could the fronts be slipping and making the noise? Is it best to get the front and back done at the same time? Or should this not really matter assuming the fronts are not that bad
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited March 2010
    There is no need to change the front and rear pads at the same time (just don't change only one side of the rear or front). The squeak sound could be a lot of things, including dust, wear indicators, metal backing plate contacting the rotor, or simply the paste between the pads and shims has lost it's effectiveness. It would be a good idea to check the front brakes, to make sure you are not scoring the rotors.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    Anyone here have their knock sensor wire chewed through by a rodent? This seems to be a common problem on the V6. In fact, the replacement wire you buy from Honda has pictures of rats on it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    I have not had any problems with chewed wires, but last Spring I did find rodent droppings and seed coats on the intake manifold of my Accord V6. After I found the droppings I set some mouse traps in my garage and caught five of the little buggers. Now when I check the oil, coolant, etc. of all the cars in my garage I also check for rodent droppings!! The three mouse traps I've kept in my garage have not caught any additional unwanted residents.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Good place for little buggers to hide during the winter is inside the engine air filter housing. Found acorns & hay in the housing when I replaced the engine air filter for my in-law.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    My front Interior overlhead lights have stopped working. I changed a bulb, didn't work. The door switch seems to be good as the rear light comes on by opening the driver's door. Just not the front interior light.
    I believe both front and rear interior lights would be out if the fuse were defective. The rear interior overhead light works fine.
    Neither light will come on.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Get a cat, they keep the mice away.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    Please don't take this the wrong way, but did you make sure the On-Off switch for the lights is in the On position??
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    I've got two cats, but they don't live in the garage!! They do a great job inside the house. Mouse traps with peanut butter and sealing off possible rodent entry cracks seems to have worked just fine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    They actually don't have a switch for on and off. You can select "Door" or "Off" - off being the selection for when you don't want them to illuminate upon unlocking/opening the door. To turn the lights on you simply push the light housing itself.
  • I have a problem which seems to be related to this one. My driver's side panel (for locking doors, moving outside mirrors and opening any window) is acting funny. I moved my sideview mirror and the back passenger's side window opened, too. Now, the automatic lock opener is acting intermittently nutty. I think the whole harnass in that door will have to be checked out and you know how Honda loves those jobs because they're so labor intensive.
  • buyahomebuyahome Posts: 26
    My '04 did that a couple of times. Try this...works every time. Take your hand and just bang it (as if you were turning it on). It just needs a little "encouraging". About twice a year I have to do it to mine. Good luck and don't be afraid to "punch it".
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Yes I did move it to both postions, It still could involve the switch however. Also pushing the clear plastic covers does not turn either light on.
    the light acted odd for a week or two and then failed. If the fuse is blown the rear light would be out also wouldn't it?
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    According to the wiring diagram in the Haynes repair manual there is a multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) that regulates the door courtesy lights and the ceiling light. If the door lights are working and the ceiling light is the problem the MICU is probably ok. I would check continuity of the ceiling light ground wire (white/Blue) and the hot wire(green/red) as well as the switch. Locating the MICU might require a good wiring diagram or a Google search, so let's hope it is the switch.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    Bioman, thank you for the info. the door lights do work, and
    I checked "buyahomes" suggestion that I bang on the overhead light assembly. I did and the passenger side light
    came on.
    I will try someones suggestion to check the ground wire,
    if I can figure out how to get to it.
    thanks all, maybe honda needs to include a rubber mallet
    with their cars.
  • colkidcolkid Posts: 9
    What manual are you using to get color codes on the wire? I found a haynes manual for about $20 that looks good, but I like the idea of wire color codes.
    Looks like the honda needs it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The Haynes Manual's schematic diagrams have the wiring labeled as per my last post.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The Haynes Manual's schematic diagrams have the wiring labeled as per my last post.
  • accord6mtaccord6mt Posts: 53
    Arg. The flip-up coin door is no longer staying closed. It just stays open all the time. When moving the door 100% up and 100% down (with decent pressure at 100% closed position to see if locking mechanism will engage), fast or slow, the door moves smoothly and there no clicking, friction or any other indicator that the door locking mechanism is broken... it's almost as if the locking mechanism was no longer attached to the door assembly.

    Any thoughts? I'd hate to have to buy another assembly but that might the fastest and least frustrating route to take.

    Thanks in advance!
  • I have the same problem, only it's the center console behind the coin box. I can bring it all the way down and it just snaps up; no latching appears to happen. I just leave it open, although I know that isn't an attractive option for the coin box.
  • rlommbardirlommbardi Posts: 30
    Both my door locks are now broken - they will not go up and down - with the flob or with the switch that is in the car........
    does anyone know what is the problem.... Honda Accord 2004..... EXL rl :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    so this is a coupe? If so, it seems unlikely that both door actuators would fail at the same time. I'd check the fuse for the locking system.

    MODERATOR

Sign In or Register to comment.