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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm a little confused - what's this whole idle learn procedure all about? I have a 2004 accord i4 sedan, 2007 i4 coupe, and 2007 cr-v ex-L. Bought all new
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    lilengineerboy: Thanks for the information on shocks, some good lessons learned with your write-up. I'm handling the maintenance for 4 cars between my wife and family. On our two higher mileage cars, 2004 Accord (166k+) and 2007 CR-V (70kish? 80kish?) haven't done anything w/ shocks.

    daveturner: I've bought from tirerack before and had a fine experience. Also have used tirerack.com to get prices down from local B&M places. My favorite place to go when replacing all 4 tires is wal-mart. I feel their price is low and you can come back for a tire balance and rotation for a lifetime
  • Hello all,

    i have been going through the past posts of this forum and they are great.

    I just bought an used 06 accord lx. the car is in good condition and has under 40k miles on it. I wanted to know, is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system? I have had a bad experience car shopping with dealers so i dont trust them now so i thought i might get to know this here.

    Also, i was a bit disappointed that TPMS is not standard on 06 accord. I saw these cheap 5$ valves at the store which indicate if the tire pressure if below/above 27psi. are they reliable? i am a lil nervous because when you fix them, the tires valve will be open 24/7 and the tires will have to depends on these fixtures. whats a good way of monitoring tire pressure?

    Cheers! :) :)
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    have not ever used those caps, but I know what you are talking about.

    Simplest solution is to get a good quality digital gauge, and just check them on a regular basis. Do it weekly at first to get a baseline, and if all the tires seem to hold air normally, even once a month should be sufficient, unless you do really high miles per week.

    Other than that, visually inspect them frequently for damage, or a noticeable sag (though it would have to be real low to stand out).

    Also check them before you take any longer trip, and especially when the weather changes (coming up fast in the NE!). tires can lose ~1# per 10 degree temp drop, so they may be fine at 80, but 5#low at 30.

    always check them cold. I like to check cold, then hot the same day to see how much they expand. Then you can make a mental adjustment if you have to check or add air when they are hot.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    also, the simpler versions don't actually tell you that your tires are low. they basically tell you that 1 is different than the others. So, if all your tires are low but evenly so, no warning.

    the fancy ones actually take individual readings, which is much more worthwhile IMO

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    edited September 2010
    Replying to the last post I made (back in 2/22/2010) regarding my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord I4 EX Sedan. At the time, the car was at something over 152,124 miles. I had discussed the oil change I just had done along w/ the tire rotation and balance from walmart. I took it to Firestone w/in a couple weeks after to have the alignment done along with a list of inspections that I pulled ahm-ownerlink.com. They were:
    150,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance: Inspect drive belt
    140,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance:
    Check front and rear brake wear
    Check parking brake adjustment
    Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
    Inspect suspension components
    Inspect driveshaft boots
    Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
    Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
    Inspect exhaust system
    Inspect fuel lines and connections

    As far as I know, all these things were fine (I took care of all service items/inspections before then). I don't have that write up on me.

    Today the car was at 166,371 miles. I finally took car of the air filter and cabin air filter (not sure when the last time I took care of them was - I think something in the 120k miles). Not sure when I grabbed the Cabin air filter but the air filter was $23.95 from the dealer after being priced down as low as possible for them to match handa-accessories.com's online price of $20.49.

    Also today, had taken the car to Firestone to have the alignment done (Have lifetime alignment from them, had the tire rotation and balance done - also free lifetime from walmart - I believe in August. Like to have alignment after rotation and balance). According to the printout, It was taken from -.07 total toe/.02 steer ahead front, .32 total toe/0.0 thrust angle rear to -.05 total toe/.01 steer ahead front and .05 total toe .01 steer ahead. There was something about aftermarket parts for a correction but it wasn't needed? My brother picked it up so I'm not sure. In the paperwork, there's a printout which has the following:
    Front camber: Nothing
    Front Caster: Nothing
    Front Toe: Nothing
    Rear Camber: honda/Acura EZ Arm XR - 2 options: 67290 (Specialty Products) / 5.67290k (Eibach)
    Fear Toe: Nothing
    Ride Heigh: 4.4540 (Eibach) Sportline Performance Lowering Springs

    Quite of things going on in the car according to Firestone. Will be taking to Honda dealer today for an oil change so I'll hear their opinions. then I'll go with whoever's the better option:
    1) Brakes and Rotors - the biggest thing.
    - QC537 Ceramic Disc Brake pads PD537 ($69.99) + R Disc brake rotor(2x$105) + $90 labor = $369.99
    - QC914 Ceramic Disc Brake Pads PD914 ($59.99) + Brake Rotor (2x$68.99)+$90 labor = $287.97
    These are pretty dead. Looking at the visual inspection writeup:
    LF: 85% worn/.901 rotor, RF 85% worn/.900 rotor/LR95% .301 Rotor/101?%worn Grooved .290

    If I go w/ the dealer for the brakes, they'll be Honda OEM. If I go w/ Firestone, I'm not sure who they'll use. I'm torn on what's best, this post from lilengineerboy stood out to me amongst quite a few posts discussing this.

    2) Battery (Marginal) at $94.99 + $15 labor - My brother mentioned jumps have been needed lately. This I've gotten from Sears I'm not sure how many years back - I want to say in or before '07 because I remember being upset I didn't take the battery to dealer because I thought I read something about a warranty full replacement.

    3) Brake Fluid flush (test strip failure) - $20 parts, $60 labor, $23 addition labor to bleed ABS - $103. I already knew this because I'm pretty sure last one was around 3 years ago (car's 6 years old so makes sense). I've purchased two bottles of the Honda Brake Fluid so I'm hoping that'll soften the blow of price. At Firestone alone, it would knock off $20 from the parts cost (however, when I brought up, they said it must be parts they acquire - however, for my '07 CR-V brake fluid flush I had done a few months back, they did allow me to bring in my own brake fluid and made the cost $80ish I believe).

    4) Serpentine/700K7Poly Rib belt - $46.99 parts + $100 labor = $146.99 - not sure what this is all about

    5) Fuel System Flush suggested- cost? - not sure what this is all about

    6) Headlight - 9006 halogen capsule $13.99 + $30 labor

    They also mentioned tires but I'll cover those in a separate post.

    Seems that's all that was checked, they didn't do a Complete Vehicle Inspection. Usually if I ask for it they will for free instead of the $20 since I'm a gold rewards member.

    Lastly, there's a mention that the maintenance and ABS lights are on. The ABS light has been on for a while. The maintenance light should go away once the next oil change today. The oil changes I supply my own oil (Mobil 1) and Honda oil filter so it keeps the costs low. I was going to go w/ Mobil 1 5w-20 instead of the 5w-30 based on the discussion that followed from my last post ( lilengineerboy's post and tankbean's post) but I only had the 20 on me. I'll get back to the 5w-20 next time.

    It's also worth mentioning that I've pushed this oil around 14k miles - usually I aim for not much above 10k miles. I didn't mean to, just lost track

    I've also mentioned all the things Firestone has pointed out in a letter. And also, as per ahm-ownerlink.com's maintenance schedule: 160,000 mi Inspect idle speed - I've asked them if they can look into it (assuming the costs aren't too bad).

    Let's see what happens.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Just did a long post on what's going on w/ my 2004 Accord EX I4 at 166,3xx miles. I didn't get into details of the tires though. I have a separate chain of posts going regarding that so I thought I would keep it up. I'm replying to my last post on the tires where I discovered that my dad had put on 4 Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RS tires.

    Right now, the tires are seem to be fine - at least according to the Firestone Courtesy Check. The front outer/inner is at 5 and the rear outer/inner is at 6.

    in lilengineer boy's reply to that post, he mentions the downsides of having the smaller tire. He also mentions the limited options for 16" tires and what I could do with 17" tires (I didn't know that was an option - but wouldn't that also cause problems like the smaller size?). chucko3 also mentions that these tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index and that's probably why they wear out faster.

    I'll start looking into replacement options through this thread
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I did a pretty detailed post on my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord a couple hours ago. I mentioned I took care of the air and cabin air filter in it yesterday. At the same time I took care of both filters in my wife's 2007 Accord I4 coupe too. The cabin air filter I grabbed a few days ago at the Dealer for $28.13 - the guy wouldn't match or even reduce the price any to handa-accessories price of $12.45 (at least as of the 6/26/10 printout I brought w/ me). I need to make sure I stock up on the cabin air filters because it's over double the price to get the OEM filter from the dealer. The Air filter I had picked up a while back at a price not too far from handa-accessories.com's price.

    I posted last back in June about this car (this post is a reply to that). Back then, it was about what my next move was going to be reagarding the oil change and inspection. At the time of that post, the car was at 32,723 miles. Finally 33,611 miles I took care of the oil change from the dealer for $34.09. I really should learn how to do my own oil change so I can save some money, but at least I also got the multi-point inspection which I think addressed all the items which should have been covered according to that Edmunds site.

    No problem issues. The main items covered and marked satisfactory were battery, fluid levels, external drive belts/radiator hoses, brake lines/hoses/parking brake cable, shock/struts/suspension/tie rod ends/steering gear, exhaust, and drive shaft boots. The tires are still in good shape at 7/32

    As far as I know, as of then and now, there's nothing else to cover.

    The other noteworthy thing happened after I was standing through the sunroof one day for something and I messed something up because after that, on the highway, there was a small windnoise coming in. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer on 8/30 at 36,391 miles - AFTER my warranty just expired. So they said they'd meet me halfway on the cost and just charge me $50 to reinstall the sunroof seal.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Not too far behind you with my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord I4 sedan. Today when I did the air filter and cabin air filter change, the car was at 166,371 miles. Been Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic since 30k miles I think or something around there. And I do 10k miles in between oil changes. According to the manual, you can do 10k in between oil changes w/ even just Honda oil. And other "big" items like coolant, transmission fluid didn't even show up til 120k miles.

    Only unexpected thing so far has been an Internal failure of the Canister Shut valve which occurred in November, 2008. The car was at 122,566 miles at the time and the cost was $300ish or something (I got it lower w/ a $100 off coupon I randomly had for that dealer).
  • With regards to your air & cabin filters; Look for NAPA monthly specials on oil and air and cabin filters. NAPA Gold air filters can be had for free; or $10 to $15 apiece. Oil filters can be bought from free (as in 2nd filter free), to $5 apiece, as in their most recent August '10 monthly special. Cabin filters can be had for $10 apiece, in certain monthly specials, especially since you replace them every 15,000 miles---gives you time to plan & keep more "monies" in your pocket!! Pretty cool--hey? Hope this helps
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    the fuel system item is probably them trying to sell you an overpriced but unneeded (and sometimes bad) fuel system power cleaning.

    as to the 17" tires, you can go with them, but of course you need new wheels too, so will not be cheap. the V6 model came with 17", so there is a plus 1 size that will get you right about the same overall diameter. the 55 series ones with the same section width will be lower overall, one impact of which is screwing up your speedometer/odometer slightly.

    not sure I would want the firestone dealer touching the idle speed (since it is no longer a little screw on the side of the carb!). not sure what there is to do other than look at the tach to make sure it is idling at the approriate speed, and evenly.

    I had brakes done at Mr. Tire. did a nice job, and used upgraded aftermarket pads. and a lot cheaper than the dealer. With 166K on the clock already, I would not worry too much about having the dealer do this!

    and the serpentine belt, if original, is probably on borrowed time. Look for dry rot/cracks, etc. As noted, not very expensive part, but can be a hassle in labor, but certainly DIY if you want to give it a try!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system?

    That depends on who you talk to. :) Some don't like to wait that long for oil changes but that is an ongoing debate for all cars.

    I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system?

    That depends on who you talk to. :) Some don't like to wait that long for oil changes but that is an ongoing debate for all cars.

    I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder suggestions. Although some have problems with the system in general and like to do things strictly on time and/or mileage.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    edited September 2010
    I wanted to post an update on my 2004 Accord I4 sedan and respond to some of the replies I have already gotten (thanks guys!)

    The car had been left with a Honda Dealer here in Clarksville, MD. They got back to me this morning and the following have been handled.

    1) Oil Change was $20 since I had my own oil and filter.

    2) The brake fluid flush was $169.95 but then I told them that I had the fluid already in the trunk which took the price down to $125 for labor only. Then I made them aware of a 15% coupon I had and that made the total $85. I was ok with that, and that was along same lines as firestone's pricing assuming I could even convince them to use a part I didn't get from them (I mentioned they were giving me a hard time about this and they hadn't a few months ago w/ the '07 CR-V brake fluid flush).

    3) They said with a $129 diagnostic fee they would hook my car to the computer and could take care of the ABS light and inspecting the idle speed in one shot. Luckily, a coupon saved me here also because I had a 50% off engine light check coupon so that took it down to $65.
    (Stickguy, you had some concern on only having the dealer handle idling speed in your post. I only intended to have this done at the dealer. )
    They just got back to me and said that regarding the ABS, the rear wheel sensor is needed and that's $232.

    4) Headlight would be $15 and no charge for the labor. I mentioned I may already have a headlight inthe car passenger side that works and they said if it did, there would be no charge for it which I ws happy about because from what I understand, i's not easy to take care of the headlight (haven't done it myself yet on any of the hondas).

    So all those item are being carried out right now. The total will be $191ish to $205ish depending on the headlight.

    So here's what's not being handled by them right now which was mentioned earlier
    1) Brake light - they said it was $6 but I think I can handle that on my own. Just need to figure out what to grab and how much it would cost. Maybe I can just grab something from dealer when car is picked up.

    2) The brakes-The verdict was severe on their end too. Replace rear rotors and pads. The front brakework is pads for sure, and they said they may or may not need new rotors but then looked closely and said they should be replaced.
    The cost breakdown is:
    Rear: $205 rotors + $80 pads + labor = $500ish more or less
    Front: rotors are $17 each more + pads and labor similarly priced = $34 + $500ish more or less - or (if the front rotors don't have to be replaced I'd be looking at $325is)
    What I don't know is the actual parts, assuming OEM.

    Compare these costs to Firestone which I will most probably go with:
    Rear: wagner therma quietp pads ($69.99) + qualis rotors ($105 each) + $90 labor = $370
    Front: same brand pads ($59.99) + same brand rotor ($68.99) + labor ($90) = $290

    Pretty decent savings in going with Firestone. If the dealer had said the the front rotors didn't need to be replaced and could just be resurfaced. I could then try to see if they would accept another local competitor coupon for a Honda dealer nearby which has a front brake special which includes resurfacing rotors for $189.95 (down from their normal cost of $250 which is still cheaper than this dealer.

    (Stickguy, you mentioned how Mr Tire put in upgraded after market brake pads in your post. What kind of brake pads were they? Would you recommend I use them in my car?)

    3) The battery was never brought up but pretty sure there really is an issue there and I want to try to see what sears would do with it anyways

    4) serpentine belt never brought up so I called and left a message on that to hear the dealer's thoughts (thanks for making me aware of it in your same post stickguy), I don't recall seeing anything in the maintenance guides about it. The dealer got back to me and said it would be $175 to handle.

    Regarding everything else that was brought up in the replies that I haven't covered:
    Stickguy, regarding your posts which I have referred to already, you also mentioned fuel system item, yeah I think it's probably junk too.

    The only thing remaining is your tire feedback which I'll cover in my tire series of posts.

    Edhollow, in your post, you gave some advice on cheaping out on the air filter and cabin air filter and oil filters. Thanks for the info, how do these compare to what I get from the dealer or handa-accessories.com? Also you mentioned replacing the air filter and cabin air filter every 15,000 miles but I do it every 30k miles.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    I forget now if they were wagner or raybestos. But they were a much higher line pad then standard (and claimed to be better than the less than stellar Honda OEM, aka crapola, pads). most of the brake job is labor, so spending $10-$20 extra on much better pads seemed like a smart idea. I just had the rotors redone (this was the back only).

    dealer is very high for this job.

    taillight bulbs is simple, but for $6, I would let them do it (then again, I am lazy).

    The serpentine belt I believe is only listed as an inspect and replace if needed item. 160K, you are pushing your luck most likely, and that baby has given it's all.

    Do the battery at Walmart. 1/2 the price of the dealer, and free install. They are also top rated by CR. get the higher output one if they have it, for maybe $10 extra.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    I forgot to mention, I also had the brake fluid changed when the rear brakes were done (at 40K, about 3.5 years). Had a coupon, so it cost about $65? maybe a little more. I did not worry about the fluid. I know it was not honda OEM, but it was whatever grade it called for.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • I bought a 2003 Honda Accord Coupe EX 4-Cylinder and 2 years after I bought it the radio light went out. I went to Honda about it, but because I didn't buy the extended warranty (because I paid cash for the car) they said it would cost me $800 to get it fixed! I finally had the radio replaced in 2008 and just last month (2 yrs. later) the light went out again. There seems to be only a 2 year life on their radio light. I wrote Honda a letter and they had some minimum wage worker call me to say it was just an isolated incident and it sucked to be me. What I want to know is HOW MANY MORE ACCORD OWNERS OUT THERE ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH THEIR RADIOS? No way can this be just an isolated incident. I love my car, but I WILL trade it for a Toyota or Nissan, because I love their cars too.
  • This is NOT isolated. Mine went out two years ago. Honda did have a recall, but only for a certain VIN number (and mine wasn't one of them). I called them and they will not do a darn thing about it and I won't buy another Honda again.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited September 2010
    If you were an original owner, you would have gotten one of these. It's a cheap fix, now that they aren't changing the entire radio. Just the Printed Curcuit Board. You should be able to get reimbursed for the charge on the first radio.

    image
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,485
    Good to know, in case my 2005 goes out!

    actually, I would have tried this anyway. I had a nissan Quest, and it had the same flaw. Mine went bad after warranty period (and it did not occur to me to grovel with them). So, I went to a local fancy audio shop. They pulled the radio out, and resoldered the connections on the board, then put it back in. Cost maybe $100? way cheaper than replacing the expensive OEM head unit on the deluxe stereo we had.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • I am having a problem with my electronic sun roof. It worked intermittently and now it does not work at all, being frozen in the open position. Has anyone else had this probem?

    Thanks,

    Michael
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,901
    Check your fuses and then if you know how, bypass the sunroof switch or at least read the voltage to it. If fuses and switch check out, it might be the motor.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for the tip. I did that and found the fuse to be OK. So, it must either be the switch or the motor. When you say bypass the sunroof switch, what do you mean by that?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,901
    Well I meant bridge it with a wire as if it weren't even in the circuit---go around it, in other words, so that the current is no longer interrupted by the switch. If the sunroof suddenly comes to life, well then you know it was the switch most likely.

    Or at least test both sides of the switch with a test light, to make sure current is going through it.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for the tip! I will try it out.
  • How many miles have those with 2003-2007 series 4 cylinder manual Accords gone before needing to replace the clutch? I'm at 125+ K miles and mine feels like it is starting to go. :sick:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I'm only at 85k on the original so it will be awhile. My 95 Accord EX lasted over 200k before I had to do anything. Of course, I did have to replace a couple of clutch master cylinders during that time. :sick:
  • A clutch is one thing that it's life can be dramatically different driver to driver. I had a relative who liked to rev the engine while releasing the clutch pedal. He only got 26k out of his clutch. Another friend had the same car and got over 200k before he sold it with the original clutch. How you drive the car can make a big difference.

    Mrbill
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,444
    91k on my 2007 clutch and it feels better than new (since I lubed the linkage).

    Never had to replace a clutch before - 230k on my Integra and the clutch feels fine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,901
    edited September 2010
    Clutch wear factors (in my opinion), in order of importance:

    1. Driver
    2. Geography
    3. Design of the car's powertrain & weight

    So, worst case scenario----unskillful driver, San Francisco, car with low-torque engine and economy differential carrying passengers.

    MODERATOR

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