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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    No. 30 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse box is for both power mirrors.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Unless the car burns oil, one can check the oil level to see if it goes down.
    I have been lucky with Hondas, no oil burning until the car got over 150K miles.
    With 92K miles, my 03EXV6 still keeps the oil at full mark level at every oil change.
    Knock on wood.
    Have an appt to have the timing belt package done this Wed.
    Will see how the old belt looks after 92K miles/8 yrs+1month.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 854
    .........your take on the old timing belt will be interesting. The interference engine (well, we all know the consequences inherent here)

    Are you also replacing other parts? Water pump, tensioner pulleys et al.........

    best, ez
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Water pump, all belts, and seals. That's all.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,430
    Time for a new battery on the I4 Accord. Forget the pathetic 51r - it is too small and did not last very long. I will probably put in the 35 from the V-6, but has anybody tried a 24 from the Odyssey?

    It also looks like a 56 should fit, but they seem to be harder to find.

    I am OK with light modification.

    I don't need a monster battery, but it gets real cold here and I do a lot of 1 mile trips with the lights on and the deffoger going - death to batteries when it is near zero out. It also looks like most of the better batteries are not even available in the 51r size.
  • I have read that if you go with a bigger battery, one of the cables need to be changed because it won't reach. I believe it's the positive one, but do a google search.
  • My original battery died in my 04-I4. I installed a larger battery from another car but to make it fit I just left out the plastic battery enclosure. There is plenty of room and the battery cables were no problem.

    Not knowing why Honda uses the plastic enclosure (heat?) I decided to install an Optima battery and reinstall the enclosure. They can handle my abuse of leaving the car sit for months at a time.

    Mrbill
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Reposting this message. Somehow the previous one got deleted when Edmund changed its look.

    The timing belt was replaced. It still looks good. No signs of crack. Could go another 10K miles.
    Two cam seals & front crank seal, water pump, and accessory belt were replaced.
    The auto tensioner was also replaced because it started leaking. This is a known problem for 2002 Accord V6.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,430
    Replaced the group 54 battery with the group 35 from the V-6. This should help with the weak reserve capacity of the stock battery. Also I couldn't find any premium batteries in the 54 size. I wound up with an Everstart Max from wal-mart. Well rated by Consumers Reports and should do fine.

    I did have to take out the battery box so the new battery would fit. Will probably buy the box for the V-6 and install that. Or I might get something aftermarket that helps keep the heat off better. Heat is what kills batteries and it gets over 100 way too often in SD (hit 121 in the shade 2 years ago). I may get something silver to reflect the engine heat away.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 854
    My word (had no idea that SD logs temperatures of 120F plus). My perception is the opposite extreme (but then perhaps North D colors my perception).

    Season's best from foggy Northern CA, ez sends..................
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Regarding the coolant, unless I'm mistaken, w/ the 2004 Accord i4, per the manual you had to do the coolant at 120k miles and then every 60k miles. Why do it earlier? I'm not sure about my family's other Hondas ('07 CR-V AWD and '07 Accord EX i4) but I thought they were something aroudn the same. They use the maintenance minder thing so usually I use the edmunds maintenance guide to figure out where I should be and what I should be doing.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efdf924/5486#MSG5486
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Thanks for starting the discussion on the battery. A couple months back My wife's '07 Accord i4 battery had died over the weekend and needed to be jumped. It's been feeling weaker on start so I'm thinking about replacing it. The car's at around 41k miles now and was bought new in September '07. I think it's outside any warranty window now. In June, when the car was at 33,611 miles and less than 3 years old, I had the battery tested from the dealer as part of a package I had done w/ oil change and other inspections. They reported it good (rating 410 CCA, 12.90V 477CCA) so at that time, I think if they had noticed something it could have been done under warranty.

    I'd of course like the get the best battery I can for her car. I'm wonder if I'm still the same group 54 as you in my '07 i4 and could go the same route you did. I'm nervous about anything too complicated since I'm not very familiar w/ car battery replacement. So when you say "take out the battery box," is that something I can do? How much is a replacement box from the V-6 that you're planning to get? or aftermarket?

    If you think doing what you did is not for the faint of heart, what's the easiest/best way to go? In my old 2004 i4 Accord (which is now my sister's), I think I put in a battery from sears many years back and as far as I know it's still in there. I guess it's doing ok, I'm not really sure. I'll post details on that later
  • As some of you know the rotors on that car are made of tissue.... turned them twice and are now pulsing... Back rotors are fine.. I am changing the fronts and not with Honda rotors.. Do I also need to change the back rotors.. People tell me in this situation it would not be good to use OEM rotors
    Any suggestions as to what type of rotors, or anyhting else I should do would be deeply appreciated.. Never expected this from Honda .. I may have 18k miles on it.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Are you sure it's an 07? I've read the stories about the current generation (08-present) but the previous generation was pretty solid. My 06 (identical to the 07) is well over 80k on the original brakes and rotors. No tissue here. ;)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,430
    edited December 2010
    97k on my original brakes and rotors. The rear are about half worn and the front about a third.

    having said that they do have a very slight pulse that shows up sometimes if you are braking extremely lightly as you coast to a stop you can just feel the brakes grab and release a little as the tires rotate. I know better than to fix this since cutting the rotors will just make them thinner and they will be much worse after a few weeks. No reputable shop should have turned them twice and expected them to get better. New rotors are the answer.

    I actually just went through this on my wife's Sienna as well. She wanted (not needed) new front brakes at about 92k. The shop said it would be fine to turn them I said I just wanted pads don't turn. They gave me some gobbldegook about safety and said they had to turn them. Sure enough they warped within a week after they were turned even though they had absolutely no pulsing before the brake job.

    They replaced the rotors with some generic brand (I just paid the difference for the new rotors) and they are fine again.

    As far as changing the battery goes it is simple. All you need is a 10 mm wrench. Undo the terminals to the battery and the two nuts on the battery hold down (4 10 mm nuts total). Remove the hold down and remove the battery. The plastic cover for the battery is in two pieces. The top piece will come out with the battery as it is just sitting on top of the battery. The bottom piece is then just sitting on a steel plate and can just be lifted out.

    If you want the simplest procedure possible to install the new battery do what I did (since it was 5 degrees and I didn't want to mess around too long). Just place the battery on the steel shelf and bolt it down with the original hold down. You will need to bend one small tab on the hold down to make it fit better.

    I will install the hold down from the V-6 (about 3 bucks) for a perfect fit as the I4 hold down does not contact perfectly (still plenty good to hold the battery, but not ideal). You can either leave the battery naked or buy new upper and lower covers from Honda. The lower is about $25 and the upper is about $15. The covers help protect the battery from engine heat and maybe keep it a little warmer in the winter (you could argue they protect it from engine heat then as well).

    Being a cheapskate I will probably cut the lower cover to fit the new battery and then buy the upper cover.

    The battery I wound up with was an Everstart Max from walmart as it was well rated by Cr and wal mart is everywhere and always open if I have a problem. The Bosch batteries that pep-boys sells and the duralast (top model) from autozone (I think) were also top rated as was the diehard gold (more expensive).. This is for a group 35 battery.

    Also - I made a mistake about the original size it is a 51r not a 54. Part of the problem with the 51 is that it is so thin that nobody makes their premium batteries in that size.

    I was a little disapointed that my original only lasted 3.5 years (it gave me problems last year at 2.5 years, but I nursed it through the winter) as my Integra original battery lasted over 7 years under the same conditions.

    One other note. Some battery gurus feel the Johnson Controls versions of the Everstart Max are better than those made by Exide. Walmart carries both.
  • Make sure if you are going with a group 51 battery that you know if you need a 51 or a 51r. This happened to me a few years ago. (I'm pretty sure that the sizes involved were 51 and 51r, but it might have been a different group size.) They are exactly the same size, but the terminals are reversed on the 51r with respect to the 51. You have to know which one you need so that your cables will fit on the proper terminal of the battery.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,073
    >Some battery gurus feel the Johnson Controls versions of the Everstart Max are better than those made by Exide.

    The Everstart MAXX from Walmart that I had put in my Buick had a 9 year warranty and only lasted about 7.5 years. Walmart prorated the replacement! Actually, I was impressed. That battery lasted longer than any battery I ever had before.

    I searched for a Johnson Controls battery for my replacement in my newer car. Walmart didn't make the battery for my car. Advance Auto parts had a battery that was vented for use in my car under the seat--by Johnson Controls.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    thanks for the breakdown. suggestions on where to buy the hold down, upper, and lower covers? dealer?
  • I am sure.. I paid the bill for it. its a 2007.. drove the 2008.. couldnt stand it.. they has a few 2007;s on the lot.. we bought one.
  • So I have been pretty busy and its been a while since I've been on here. The '07 Accord EX has had some trials and tribulations mostly beyond its control, but the issue that has been driving me nuts is the squeaking and squawking when it goes from fall to winter (i.e. it gets cold).
    I bought the blessed shin-itsu grease stuff, for $14 online, reportedly straight from Mr. Honda's eh :sick: something. I cleaned all the weather stripping around the doors and windows and then treated all of the rubber with the grease. While I still think this is one of the most ridiculous automotive maintenance tasks I've ever had to perform, it did do the trick and the commute is much quieter. Now its just the dash rattles.
    Oh and as far as some other threads, 50k and I haven't replaced tires or brakes (except fluid) but its all highway driving.
    I am at a point, with the car almost paid for, where I am trying to decide: do I want to modify it to make it enjoyable or just start over with something else and payments?
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    Has anyone experienced this...?
    We have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder automatic with just under 30,000 miles. My wife drives it on short local trips. The car is very well maintained.

    The car sits out at night (no garage). We live in a cold climate and the overnight temperature is near zero and single digits.

    We've noticed when it gets colder outside, the car takes longer and longer to crank over to start (6 or 8 cranks). It takes quite a few seconds to crank over, then the engine feels like it's slamming as it does start. We put a new battery in it last year because the battery was 4 years old and we felt there wasn't enough cold cranking amps to keep up the extended cranking when it gets cold. We have the new battery in it and it still takes a long time to crank. We also had the oil changed last month, too. The car runs, drives, and shifts fine after it starts.

    I have a newer 2008 CR-V with the same 4-banger engine. It sits outside too next to the Accord, and it starts (slowly) in about 2 or 3 cranks in zero weather and doesn't slam when it starts. Both cars get gasoline from the same station.

    Does anybody have any ideas why it takes so long for the Accord to start when it's cold? When the car heats up or the outside temperature warms up, the car starts perfectly fine.
  • Only 17000 miles on my 2006 EX-4cyl, and I'm already on my second battery (the first was something of a lemon, as I judged it). Even now, however, cold weather starting isn't as good as I would like.

    Rather than keep it cranking in the first try, I've found that a quick release of the key after 2 or 3 cranks, then waiting 5-10 seconds before trying again, works very well. On the second attempt, it starts up in an instant. So far, at least, this seems to be the best way to deal with a battery which frankly isn't as powerful as it ought to be, regardless of age. It's the biggest shortcoming of an otherwise well-equipped vehicle, in my view.

    The slamming, which only occurs infrequently with me, is annoying, even more so because I really don't understand it. Someone else in the forum can perhaps enlighten us.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,430
    Not sure what the slamming is - never had it happen.

    I did read in the owners manual that it cranks longer because of emissions. My accord always cranks a few times before it starts, even in the summer and even when the battery is full of juice and can crank forever. My Integra would start almost instantly.
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    It doesn't seem to be a battery issue.

    Both the Accord and the CR-V crank a few times before they start in all weather (hot or cold). Both of them crank the engine very slowly. I've heard other Hondas start and they're slow too.

    I'm just concerned that there's something going on with the fuel delivery in the Accord causing it not to turn over until after about 6 or 8 or 10 cranks. In sub-zero weather, there won't be enough battery (even a new battery) left to keep cranking it that long.

    Once the Accord has been driven or the outside temperature rises above single digits, the car starts perfectly fine every time. Figure that one out!!
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Try to prime the fuel pump and wait a couple seconds before cranking the engine when the temp is cold.
  • Suggestions: full synthetic oil, engine warming blanket (to make it easier to start) & keep oil from thickening or congealing"); hotter plugs to create a spark, for easier starting; the 2 to 5 seconds of cranking, leaving the key ignition energized to help the electric fuel pump crank gas, to reach the carburetor or fuel injectors! All great ideas, to lessen resistance for the cold battery, and circulate oil, a little easier. Hope this helps & Merry Christmas, Happy New Year!! :) ">
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,284
    my 2005 (4 cyl, stick) has always been a sluggish starter. even when it is warm out, it doesn't sound happy about firing up. And when it is cold, it sounds like cross your finger time.

    and even last year after I got a new battery, it was still pretty sluggish. Always fired up eventually, but not a warm and fuzzy wait.

    one thing that I found (at walmart) was that they didn't carry a higher output battery in that size, so it is about the same 450CCA rating as the pitiful OEM.

    I also have an Odyssey and Acura TL that fire up immediately (especially the TL) and sound much more energetic. They also both have higher capacity (750ish) ratings.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,430
    That is why I upgraded to the group 35 battery from the v-6. 640 CCA and a 9 year warranty (pro rated of course).

    The car still cranks a few times like it does in the summer, but they are faster cranks and the car never seems like it won't start.

    Interesting story about batteries. When Nissan first started bringing cars to the US they wondered why they were getting so many complaints about dead batteries. Turns out in Japan everybody would put a blanket over the car at night to keep it warm. In the US nobody did that so bigger batteries were needed.
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