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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    I even bought the new battery from the dealer and this is what was specified for the car.

    I'm afraid to put too much more CCA's. Years ago, a trusted mechanic told me if you put a much higher CCA rating battery in the car, you may be replacing the starter within the year.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    I think the mechanic's theory is more fanciful than based on fact. Starter motors are used for very short bursts and can take enormous abuse because of that. Besides, 12V is still 12V, no matter what the CCA's.

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  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    My NTB battery croaked within 2 years. Replaced at the Honda Dealer. Dealer tests battery w/every oil change and caught it. I believe the Honda battery warranty on my new battery is 8 years with a 3 year free replacement. Good luck with it. Happy Holidaze to all.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Car will turn over more easily with synthetic oil. Use the oem spec weight synthetic 5-20? or 0-20 if permissible. Hope this helps.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Interesting re the window strip grease,think I'll try it. Less pressure in the tires or a softer riding tire might "fix" the dash rattle. Best,financially, to keep the car,if you think it's a good unit. You have already taken the depreciation:Why start the depreciation all over,again?
  • Have to share my battery experience. My wife also drives an 07 accord. About 2 mos ago the car was dead in the am so I charged the battery. It lasted the day and was dead the next am. Took to the local advance auto, they tested the electrical, said the battery was fine but the alternator was suspect. (They were running a battery special and I purchased one but did not have it installed). Took car to Honda for same tests. Was told the diagnostic would only be @ 15 min but ended up taking over an hour!!! And on top of that, they found....nothing wrong with the alternator, but, wait for it....it needed a new battery and of course since I was there and already invested an hour of labor, purchased the Honda 100 month battery at a total cost including the labor, of just over twice what the advance battery was costing. Here's where it gets really good. My wife drove her car home and parked in the garage. Later that night I went down to check on her car and noticed the interior dome light on... Of course I checked the doors (all shut) and then found the ceiling dome light switched on. I changed it to the auto off position. (Interesting Honda didn't notice)
    Seems our granddaughter is at the "push button / flip switch" age.
    In summary:
    1. Advance said I had good battery but alternator was bad
    2. Honda said alternator was ok, but battery was bad
    3. Battery was probably fine all the time
    My only consolation is that the battery was approaching its useful life anyway and better to have it changed before the cold weather arrived.
    Live and learn...
  • Interesting re the window strip grease,think I'll try it

    I did all the seals on the doors and on the frame where the door closes, as well as the window tracks (the windows are much faster now). Hopefully that will help the longevity of the window motors, since all the window motors on my '93 Accord failed between 5 and 7 years (not terrible, but on my '96 FORD Contour they never failed).

    Best,financially, to keep the car,if you think it's a good unit.

    Yeah, I think it was always the wrong car for me to buy. Its a size to big and not very interesting to drive. The upside is 32 mpg on my commute, and it holds a child seat in the center rear position and allows the use of the two outside seats by normal people.

    You have already taken the depreciation:Why start the depreciation all over,again?

    I am weighing that against the modifications I would like to make the car more palatable to me, knowing the expense of those modifications and their affect on resale value. Firmer suspension and lower profile, firmer tires (and wheels) offsets a lot of the savings. And would likely make whatever loose rattle issues I have now considerably worse.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    My battery experience was much less dramatic. Pulled into the Honda express oil change facility. Honda does free checks with the oil change and discovered the NTB battery was below good. Sold me the Honda battery for $113. Took the NTB battery back and got a full refund from NTB. I prefer to deal with fewer vs. more vendors. 3 year free replacement on the Honda battery,the $99 NTB battery was gone in less than 2 years.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I would not go beyond higher performance tires on the oem rims,but,then, I'm an unexciting person. .02.
  • I would not go beyond higher performance tires on the oem rims,but,then, I'm an unexciting person. .02.

    Well, if you have the 17" wheels, that is relatively easy, but since I have the 16" wheels coupled with 205/60 tires, I am SOL there. I have been keeping my eye out for a stock sport or aftermarket 17" wheel that will let me run 215/50R17s which have a lot more options. There are several Honda/Acura wheels that will work, and a billion aftermarket ones.
    Some of the spring manufacturers make a "mild drop" spring that only lowers the car about 1" so it should still do well enough in snow. Coupled with some sport oriented shocks, that should give a much more connected feel. The Acura TL has thicker sway bars and that is an easy afternoon upgrade for the rear, somewhat more involved in the front since you must drop the sub-frame.
    If I can get H/A 17" wheels and TL sway bars, that would make the shocks and springs the only non-oem parts.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Pay small;Lose small.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Posts: 216
    Hope I'm in the correct forum. My 07 SE V6 is approaching 37K miles riding on the original factory tires. I'm guessing they'll need replaced at around 40K. Should I replace them with the same tires or would some other tire work better? (I live if Florida)
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 855
    ....replaced OEM Michelin HX MXM4 215/50-17 with same size Mich Primacy MXV4 about 25,000 miles back. I join the Tire Rack folks in their high ratings of this somewhat pricey tire.

    I understand - in addition to a $70 VISA card bonus - that Costco also factors in here on decent pricing................

    season's best, ez....
  • I usually buy the bridgestone Potenzas but have also bought Falken tires and quite inexpensive due to the fact tht very little goes to marketing like Michellin does.. How much of the cost of the michelin tire is related to marketing.. I bet a major portion.. Wont ever buy Micheleins again after I bought pilotsl. Never really owned them , just rented them, they blew up so many times and of vourse they were the sidewalls
  • robgraverobgrave Posts: 65
    edited December 2010
    If I were putting 10,000+ miles on my tires each year, I'd probably avoid paying the Michelin premium and go with Bridgestones, or whatever. But in fact, I drive much less than that, and it is the overall life-expectancy of the tire that matters to me most of all.

    Perhaps I'm wrong about this, but the Michelin tire seems to hold up better in time (because of a softer rubber, maybe?), which makes it a better tire to have at say 6 yrs/20,000 miles. At least, that's how my thinking goes right now.

    The more tire-savvy experts here may disagree, of course. As always, I'm more than willing to listen and learn.

    EDIT: Michael2595 got his post in before mine, and I gather he doesn't find that Michelins hold up so well. My own experience is different (with previous cars), so there it is: no definitive conclusion. And it may very well be true that you're just paying extra for the name when you buy Michelin. I just like to think that I'm good at not wasting money.
  • I agree with robgrave...I have a 2004 Accord V-6 EX-L 6 spd. and have always used the OEM tires (michelins). Every set I've had has lasted close to 50,000 miles (I have 157k miiles on the car and it still looks/runs great w/original clutch, starter, alternator, radiator, etc.).

    In all fairness, I would note that I put two Blizzaks on the front wheels from November thry March each winter (4 wheel snowtire freaks please don't yell at me - I've heard it all - we can agree to disagree b/c I've been doing it for 30 years w/o a problem), so that prolongs the Michelin's life somewhat, and they do tend to get noisier as they get older, but I've found them to be great all around tires with good traction and puncture avoidance, right up until shortly before I decided to swap 'em out for ones. I have never had a flat.

    I've also had Michelin Pilots in the past (used 'em on my old '99 Maxima GXE) and found them to be a vast improvement over the original Bridgestone Potenzas that came with that car.

    To a large extent, once you've vetted objective quality, the rest is really subjective t/b/d by the individual driver.

    Happy tire hunting!

    -FS :shades:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Those of us who purchased 06 Accords got either Michelins or Bridgestones. I got the latter and couldn't be happier. Most of the Michelin people from that year had to replace them early. Mine still have good tread left at 88k. They aren't Potenzas though.
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    So what were they? My 07 SE isn't ready for tires yet but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks, Happy motoring! ;)
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,472
    the OEM michelins on my 2005 were not very good. by 40K, tread was low, and they had gotten progressively worse in wet weather (not good to start with, by mid-30s they were almost dangerous). My 2005 Odyssey only got 30K out of those michelins.

    both were replaced with Yokohamas that have performed very well, and are lasting much longer (especially on the van, already more on the replacements and they are only 1/2 worn).

    For the Accord, the Yokohama Avid H/V4 is a good option (what I have). Not the best for snow though from the tests at tirerack, but if you live in Fla, not an issue!

    I also put BF Goodrich Advantage TAs on my 2000 Acura Tl (same size as the Accord). fantastic deal from BJs (with a coupon), and they have done a good job in the 2K we have on them. Even did great in snow up in Syracuse according to my son.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (daughters college car)

  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    What brand of tires do you have? I have an '05 that had as original equipment, Bridgestone Turanza tires. I replaced them at 75,000 miles, but they would easily have gone 90,000. I am just surprised that you were only able to get this many miles on your tires.
  • go to tire rack on the internet for Petes sake. They are realiable.. why trust us.. we can all be pole dancers on dope.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    That's a bit rude - people come to these discussions in hopes of getting advice from others who own the same vehicle. No one said they must take the words here as gospel handed down from above, but it's legitimate to think that you might get tire buying advice from other people who own the same vehicle you do.

    I'm wondering why a business that makes money selling items to consumers is any more likely to be reliable than other members here? Surely a business would never attempt to steer a consumer to an item that has a higher profit margin than another... nah... I trust Tire Rack, but multiple opinions are generally useful.

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  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    What happened to my post to dolfan?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,716
    edited January 2011
    it's a little bug that affects some people here, on rare occasion, and that will be cleared up Jan. 6th. Our apologies, if that's what happened to you.

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  • you asked the same question twice.. Have you never ever bought tires before.? what makes the Honda so special?. It doesnt require low profiles nor a Z rating, etc. I believe your question is quite sophomoric.. As I stated go to to tirerack , put in your year make and model.. They will give you their choices then do the research, read the reviews and make your choice , or you can sit here and wait for somebody who can be a high school kid playing on daddys computer to give you an answer you take as the gospel .. This a chatrrom full of people no one knows who give out info that is sometime superb and many times worthless... I Asked a question here that according to one"expert" who answered it would have cost me in repairs 1200 dollars... Went to the local mechanic specializing in this repair and it cost me 400 dollars and everything is perfect. Good luck to you... By the way dont go to tire rack.. sit here, dust yourself off every week and wait for the answer you like best.. see you in a year.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    No problem. Thanks for your reply.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Buy at Discount Tire. Only 1 vendor and free lifetime rotations,balance,and air. They will match Tr price. I like the Goodyear Assurance Comfort Treads for comfortable,quiet, ride. GACT Tourings for better handling,mpg,but a little noisey and firm ride. 80,000/6year warranty. Keep up with the free rotations and get proration credit from DT on your next set of tires when they wear out early. Hope this helps.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    So what were they?

    At the risk of sounding like a pole dancer, my OEM tires are Bridgestone Turanza EL41's. I've been very pleased with them but I'll still do some shopping when the time comes to replace them. I sure can't complain about how they've held up. And my gas mileage has been great too.

    I remember reading the reviews on Tire Rack several months back and they were quite varied. I think the other OEM tires from Michelin were even rated a couple tenths of a point higher.

    But who knows, those anonymous Tire Rack reviewers may have been borrowing their dad's computers too. ;)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    I didn't ask a question at all. I was responding to YOUR answer to someone else's question.
    I understand that you may not find this Forum useful - there's no one-size-fits-all forum for every person, and it's almost impossible to diagnose a mechanical issue to perfection, every time, on a forum, or to give pricing estimates for every problem, fixed by every mechanic, in every area of the country. However, there are many instances in which this forum has saved others money or hassle. If you don't like the advice or appreciate the assistance in this forum, that's fine, but no one is welcome to stick around here and make posts for the express purpose of denigrating our other members.

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