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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Found this other thread on the same subject on driveaccord.net ( http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=786384#post786384 )

    Going to wait for the responses to my questions before I get started with the install, specifically on the need for the 32600-SDB-A00 CABLE ASSY and not the 31531-SDB-A00 COVER, BATTERY USA 1
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,456
    While it certainly would not hurt to install the larger cable for the ground, I don't think it is necessary. The V-6 has a larger alternator so it has a larger ground cable.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    did the battery swap yesterday. All the parts you recommended fit fine to accomodate the new battery. The problem though is that those skinny metal rods (that are "L" shaped) are not long enough for the new battery set up. I need longer ones
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,456
    My metal rods did fit but barely. You can actually get those at any car parts store - they are pretty generic.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    edited February 2011
    Dudleyr, my uncle's a mechanic and had been helping me with this remaining part of the install. I went to visit him today and he had ordered longer rods however they were too long and would have needed to be cut. However someone else was there with him and they were able to make it work with the older rods. The used some tool which bent the edge down a bit and like yours, fit but barely. Everything is all set now. One thing I had done wrong was connect the cables to the terminals too high. They were lowered and tightened closer to the battery.

    Between your initial post here: and this post is all the information that someone needs to put a V6 battery in an i4 accord. thanks for all your help
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    While getting all the battery work sorted out today at my uncle's (who's a mechanic) shop, I brought up that I needed to change the brake fluid soon because the manual says it should be changed every 3 years regardless of mileage. But we looked at the brake fluid together and he pointed out that it was clean and that there was plenty in there. Any thoughts? If it's not a big deal, I'll push it another year. I still have to take care of the brake fluid in my dad's '07 CR-V though which is now pushing 4 years of ownership (we had bought it new in May '07)
  • In the US, does my Honda Accord EX V6 with Navigation 5 Speed Automatic really have this feature:

    Multi-Reflector Halogen Headlights: with Auto-off

    I think the lights have been turning themselves off when I get out of the car in the past 5.5 years, but they may not be now and they may be draining the battery. Note that there is no Auto setting on the steering wheel light stem.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    They are not auto-on like some cars but they should turn off automatically. I'm a little confused about how you "think" they have been turning off and they "may not be" now. :confuse: I'm guessing you'd be able to tell this for sure by looking at them when you got out of the car. What am I missing?
  • lambanlaa1lambanlaa1 Posts: 5
    edited April 2011
    I "think" that they have been turning themselves off, because, even though they remain on when I get out of the car and lock it via my key remote, when I return to the car, even after a short time (inside a store, for example), they are off.

    Hope that clarifies that statement.

    Lambanlaa
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Well, that is exactly what they are supposed to do. What makes you think that they are no longer working? Are they on when you return from the store now?

    I believe they stay on for about 30 seconds to a minute. I would suggest that you just wait outside your car and watch them. If they are still on after 5 minutes, something is wrong.
  • They were definitely on for more than 5 minutes when I showed the dealer.

    So is there an Auto setting on the light stem (the post that comes off the steering wheel)?

    Lambanlaa
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    There is no way to set the lights. They just go off automatically.

    Perhaps a host will move these posts to an existing thread that might have someone more mechanical than me. Something is not working with the auto-off feature.

    Was the dealer's service dept. able to tell you anything?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,918
    edited April 2011
    I think that this will get more attention in an existing Accord problems discussion, so I'm going to shift it there.

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  • Thanks, I'm going to have the dealer check this out specifically, next time I go, and I will post the results.

    Lambanlaa
  • shulashula Posts: 1
    I was coming home the othe day on the interstate when I noticed the car slwoing down so I pulled off to the shoulder. The car would not move when I pushed down on the acelerator. I put more transmission fluid in it and could drive it to the mechanics shop, 2 miles away with much trans slipage. He said the transmision is gone and will need a new one. I see this Lucan transmission product that says it will fix a slipping transmission. Has anyone tried this? Does it really work? 2003 Honda Accord, 4 door, LX, automatic 3 speed, 214,000 miles.link">
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    Your transmission is dead and needs to be rebuilt. The fact that when you added liquid it actually moved, means you lost all liquid over time. That means you have a leak. This is either due to too much pressure inside, or one of the seals is gone. I have a 2006 Accord, auto 4cyl with 147k on it now. I had to get tranny rebuilt 40k ago. Had one of parts inside wore out and caused vibration which loosened the seal enough to loose all liquid. Cost me slightly over $2k to rebuild it.
    Once you have parts inside that have worn out (for whatever reason), no liquid will restore them to working condition. These parts need replacement.
  • Dear Shula:
    The previous reply could be "right-on", however, you owe it to yourself to try something else--B4 a rebuild job! You're no worse off--right? Besides, it might buy you a little time! However, I would try a Lube Guard transmission additive, B4, Lucas. I've tried both--and I've gotten better results w/ Lube Guard. Also, Lucas additive, will also swell and eventually dissolve your seals, over a sustained period of time. Also, Lube Guard is the only product I've seen in transmission shops. What does that tell you? Good luck!! :)
  • inertia1inertia1 Posts: 8
    During the winter while I was driving the heater was working just fine. However whenever I stopped it would stop heating. Now with the winter it doesn't seem to be doing the opposite (or maybe it just started getting hot outside so I may hpnot have noticed it yet)

    Any idea what might cause that?
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    edited April 2011
    This question only applies to the 2003 to 2007 6 cyl. Accord 4 door with automatic transmission.
    At light to moderate acceleration, at what speed (MPH) does the transmission shift into 5th gear?

    Please state the year of your Accord when answering.
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    2006 4 cyl. Mine between 55-60MPH
  • ag1830ag1830 Posts: 2
    I have the same question, did you get any advice..?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I bought my accord new. It has 106,000 miles. For those of you with high mileage accords, when did you change the struts or have you had to change them?
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    I have a 2006 4 cyl Accord with 149k on it. I did not yet change my struts. Does not feel like I need to. Tires wear fine, no leaks, no excessive shaking/grunts/creaks, etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    Degradation of struts is usually so gradual that a driver wouldn't notice how much they've degraded unless they replaced them. So yeah, it makes no sense to replace them unless they are misbehaving, even if they might not be performing "as new" anymore. If there are no clunks, no visibile leakage upon inspection, no unusual tire wear and no lose of control on bumpy roads, then you might as well not worry about them.

    Often it's the people who carry passengers or heavy items in the trunk that notice strut degradation first.

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  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Degradation of struts is usually so gradual that a driver wouldn't notice how much they've degraded unless they replaced them. So yeah, it makes no sense to replace them unless they are misbehaving, even if they might not be performing "as new" anymore. If there are no clunks, no visibile leakage upon inspection, no unusual tire wear and no lose of control on bumpy roads, then you might as well not worry about them.

    I guess the only caveat to that is if you need to make an evasive maneuver on the highway or some such thing like that, the car may not react the way the driver expects. Age & mileage take a toll on the shocks and while driving in a straight line at moderate speeds, it may not be noticeable but when attempting to quickly change direction, issues can arise.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    At least statistically, struts start to weaken at about 80,000 miles. That is, after all, half the life of most cars and it's about 6-8 years of use, so it makes sense.

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  • Hello,

    I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (V6). It has 26,000 miles and runs very well.

    One problem: The climate control system(AC or heat) makes a odd rumbling sound when I'm at a red light or whenever the car isn't moving for at least 5-10 seconds and the car is in drive.

    I also feel a vibration in the brake pedal whenever this rumbling sounds occurs. The vibration and the rumbling disppear when I turn the air off.

    It doesn't occur every time I stop the car. It does happen every time I drive.

    The service techs have not been able to hear the sound or feel the vibration - I'm going to have to drive with them in the future.

    I did have the hepa air filter replaced in November and the rumbling and vibration went away for about two months.

    Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this rumbling and vibration?

    I'd appreciate any help.

    Thank you.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Thank you for the replies about the struts. As I said, I have 106000 miles on the car. I have had no trouble with the car and the body is still tight. There are no rattles. I have never replaced the front brakes. I had them checked when I serviced the car at 105000. They keep telling me that there is plenty of wear left. It is absolutely the best car I have ever owned. You just drive it and keep it serviced and that is it. When am I going to start to have trouble and what are the things that I will have to repair?
  • I have a 2003 Accord LX with 202k miles. I passed it on to my daughter at around 180k (and bought a 2011 Accord Coupe). I have not had any mechanical issues with the car...none. For those interested, here is a summary of maintenance done to the "03 - all done by myself:
    Oil changes every 5-7k - Quaker State 5W20 since new.
    Drain and fill transmission (3qts Honda ATF) every 15k.
    Drain and fill radiator coolant every 50k (1.3 gal. Honda Coolant).
    Changed spark plugs at 97k, but they still looked great, and could have waited much longer. Plan to change again at around 220k.
    Air filter changes at 20k.
    Front brake pads at 70k, 100k, and 156k. Also replaced front rotors at 100k.
    Drive belt at 110k.
    Have not changed any suspension parts yet, as I have not experienced any handling, tire wear issues, etc.
    I am no expert in auto maintenance, but maintaining a Honda is very simple. This may not be the schedule, type of oil, etc. that everyone will follow, but it has certainly worked for me. We currently have four Hondas, and I maintain them all similarly.
    Regards,
    Derek
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