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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • cherri4cherri4 Posts: 7

    Thanks for the infromation.

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    edited May 2014

    It's been a while since I posted in here. Seems the Edmunds forums have changed quite a bit so I can't figure out where my last post was. I had liked to put regular updates in on how the maintenance of my '07 Accord i4 Coupe EX-L w/ Navigation was going. I'm a little over 90k miles now, and have owned the car for about 6 and a half years. I had bought it new in September 2007.

    Going through the Edmunds Car Maintenance guide ( ), it says I should be preparing to do this at 90k:

    Replace Air filter
    Replace Cabin air filter

    Change Engine oil & Oil Filter

    Rotate/adjust air pressure Wheels & tires

    Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect Brakes
    Inspect Drive belt(s)
    Inspect boots & seals Drive shaft
    Inspect Exhaust system
    Inspect Fluid levels
    Inspect Fuel lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect/adjust Parking brake
    Inspect Suspension
    Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots

    Regarding the oil: I use Mobil 1 Synthetic alongside an OEM Honda Oil Filter. Though the maintenance minder goes off earlier, I usually push my oil to around 10k miles.

    What I'm kind of worried about is the 60k maintenance. While I did do the transmission fluid change, I don't remember if I did all these things (I've left out the duplicate items I already mentioned in my 90k list):

    Replace Spark plugs
    Inspect Valve clearance
    Inspect Steering gear rack, linkage & boots

    I think that the Spark plugs being done at 60k might be wrong. Isn't it around 120k? And the valve clearance you do during the spark plug replacement right?

    I have a spreadsheet where I try to keep track of my maintenance and don't have those items mentioned on there.

    I'm going to be heading to my usual Honda dealer soon to pick up my RDX (I had them carry out the car's first oil change instead of acura because it's cheaper). Will see if I can get old paperwork printed for my '07 Accord so that if I Got it done there, I'll have that record.

    I'll also be taking a printout of the accessories cost for the Handa store ( )

    Two more things:

    1) Also in that 60k list according to Edmunds is the Flush/replace Brake fluid, but I Think that has to do with years, not mileage. So every 3 years that should get done. I did mine last August 2012 when I changed my rear brake pads and had my rear rotors resurfaced (vehicle was at 70k-ish miles).

    2) I need to get my wipers replaced - any suggestions for good ones? otherwise I'll just pick up what honda dealer parts store has

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469

    I also have an '07. I replaced my plugs at 120k and they still looked almost new.
    I have 175 k right now on the original brake fluid. It still looks nice and clear and the pedal is firm. Tranny fluid is also original (manual) and shifting is effortless and smooth. Also still have the original coolant. Coolant still looks great - no signs of sediment or corrosion in the radiator.

    I tend to shy away from replacing fluids just for the sake of it. Maybe I just have bad luck, but it always seems like I have a problem shortly after I get something done like changing the brake fluid. Technician does not get all the air out, or doesn't tighten a bleeder valve properly or something.

    Do fluids eventually go bad - yes. I bought a Miata last fall that was 19 years old and had the original coolant (and brake fluid, and clutch fluid). The coolant did look dark greenish black, but there were no leaks (it survived -30 in South Dakota) and the radiator had no signs of corrosion. There was just a little sediment, so I flushed 3 or 4 times and put in fresh coolant - runs great. I will probably replace the clutch fluid and brake fluid sometime this summer, but both systems are working well and the fluid looks nearly new.

    I did have a brake line go bad on my '90 Integra, and I did change the brake fluid on that car. I don't think it was related to the fluid anyway, the rubber line had just dry rotted at a bend after 24 years. New line cost $16 including shipping and I installed it in a few hours.

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