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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm not really handy so I think engine Air filter & Cabin air filter is all I can handle.

    The timing belt's something I didn't know anything about - I don't think I saw anything about that mentioned in the manual - when does that have to be done on a 2004 Accord 4 cylinder EXL Sedan?

    As far as the brake pads go, firestone had told me a litlle while ago that something needed to be done with the rear rotors, but when Honda did their visual inspection more recently (included in my $29 oil change w/ battery test and tire rotation), they didn't comment on the brakes.

    I should really get more handy. Maybe my new car will inspire me to do it? (I bought a new 2008 Lexus IS 350 today - details over in the Lexus IS 250 / IS 350 Prices Paid and Buying Experiencethread in case anyone's interested. I'll still be here in these threads since my '04 Accord will be handed off to my family and my wife still will be driving her 2007 Accord.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Oh, if it's a 4 cylinder, you're good. No timing belt for you (chain). :D
  • I posted about this a few months ago, and thank you to those who responded (elroy5 and chucko3). When I unplug the connector to the master cylinder, it goes out. Anyone have a suggestion on how I should proceed? I assume there is a short in one of the wires, but would like some guidance from someone who knows.

    2003 Accord LX - 152,000 otherwise trouble free miles!

    Thanks!
  • bvdj84bvdj84 Posts: 1,721
    I had the 16's tires on the 4cyl, not 17's on the 6cyl. I could see how the 6cyl tires would have some trouble. Mine looked new all the way up to when I traded it.

    I lease my cars, so putting different tires on a leased car wouldn't be very appealing to me and would not happen at my expense. If you could prove the Michelins to be malfunctioning way before their warranty, then I believe they would have to replace them right. I know I had some kind of replacement warranty on mine.

    I am glad your tires are better. I did notice a bend in the V6 tires on the Accords, that would eventually break them down. not good. Mine did sorta did that, but not to where it caused excessive wear.

    The new Accords now use the same tire and size on the EX model and up trims.
    Looks to be a better fit. Looks like they hug the rim evenly.
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Posts: 71
    I would follow the directions in the manual. I have an 07 4cyl. EX Manual. When checking/filling tires I do so as early/cold in the morning as I can when the car has been sitting over night. The air in the tires and in my compressor is cold and more dense. When driving or in warmer tempreartue the air will expand and have a different tire pressure. I believe the 32/30 or 32/29 is filling pressure. If you have been driving or fill in the day time during warmer temperature you will not be driving on the same pressure as my car tires would be. Filling at 35/33 for example during warm conditions may be the same as cold filling 32/30.

    My tires also exhibit the "low" looking bulge. I rotate my tires every oil change and I am at about 53K right now. I haven't measure the tread lately but visually they still look great all the way around. I think their are a lot of variable with tire pressure and it isn't as simple as just filling to a certain number in order to get the best life/performance out of the tire.
  • I was wondering if sparks plugs are different. I read here somewhere, but can't find it again that a certain spark plug will give you aprox 5 hp throught all ranges, if this is true i would gladly pay double or triple for this, wouldn't eyeryone? , if it is also safe for the engine that is. Thanks for any responces. Charlie
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Posts: 71
    07 EX 4cyl. Manual: 53K mileage.

    I just started getting my first brake squeal. It is the back right brake (drivers rear). I'll probably change them out soon. I know I should do both rear brakes at the same time. I haven't gotten down and measured the pads all the way around yet but I will.

    I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?

    Also, some have told me that turning the rotors every time you swap pads lengthens future pad life and maintains best braking performance. I am told this is because it eliminates friction loss between rotor and pads by removing the grooving from the original brakes.

    I am sure there are other questions I should be asking but I don;'t know to ask. Any input at all is appreciated.

    Also, I will be ordering the Maintenance manual soon. Is it still only available through the website at the back of the Honda glove box Owners Manual?
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Posts: 71
    I would stick with the OEM plugs. 1st reason is that horsepower and/or fuel mileage increases has not yet been proven to come from Spark Plugs in a lab setting. 2nd reason is that the Spark Plugs are part of the ignition system. It is possible to see HP gains by upgrading the system. But this is more than just swapping out plugs. Some cars have shown weaker performances by switching to a "higher quality" plug. It has something to do with heat and temperature fluctuations throughout the ignition system and how that relates to the rest of the engine.

    If you are going to be tuning your car then you would be fine. However, if you are ready to tune things out you should already be familiar with this.

    I would stick to OEM and save the money and potential damage by using a plug that was not engineered for your engine.

    Also, if you are looking for 5hp gains you should be driving a different car. Accords are not meant for "performance" like that. You probably would never noticed 5hp, the only advantage would be engine life through ease of moving the vehicle. Once you start passing 25-30hp you should start to feel the difference because of the power to weight ratio. The Accord is not a drivers car. Buy something that is small and light. Then small HP gains would be noticeable.

    Those are my two-cents. I am sure there are others who can correct anything I have said or provide a different perspective on plugs.

    Good luck!
  • One thing I found out the hard way, those tire pressure gauges can fail. or at least can be way off. I have a gauge in each vehicle, and one in the garage. The last time I checked the pressure, the tires were showing 10 psi low. Wow, that seems alot, but it's 20 deg. outside, and the last time I checked the pressure, it was 70 out. I filled the tires, and took my truck for a ride to get gas. The thing rode like a lumber wagon. I got back home and re checked with another gauge, now the tires are 15 psi high. Needless to say, the one gauge hit the trash can. The rest tested within 2 psi of each other. I just went out and got a new digital gauge, I'm going to bring all of them into work and verify with calibrated equipment.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    When I unplug the connector to the master cylinder, it goes out. Anyone have a suggestion on how I should proceed?

    One thing you may want to check. Take the cover off the master cylinder, and check to see if the rubber boot is hanging down. If it is, push it back into the cover. This has been known to cause the Brake light to come on, on older Accords. It may still apply.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?

    Yes, the rear brakes do wear faster than the front (on many 7th gen Accords). My rear brakes were changed at 47k miles, and the front were just changed at 60k miles. When you push the calliper piston back in (rear only) you have to turn it clockwise, while pushing. Then line up the groves in the piston with the tab on the inner pad backing plate (should be square with the calliper). There is a paste that comes with the oem pads, that is to be applied between the pad backing and the shims. This paste is supposed to keep the brakes from squealing. If the new pads don't come with shims, use the old ones. There are different opinions on wether or not you should have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. IMO if the brakes are working fine, and there are no deep grooves (1/8") in the rotor, I would not have them turned. It will only make the rotors thinner, and weaker. You just have to break the new pads in carefully. I have a link explaining this, if you want to read it.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    For what it's worth, I have had an 03 4-cylinder since 36000 miles and am now just under 59000. I had the front pads replaced at around 42000 a little over a year ago. I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems. I'm getting an intermittent squeal, but it isn't constant.

    I'm going to wait until 60k when I take it in for its check-up and have them check it along with my alignment and all that fun stuff. I'm not handy at all. I can change pads and filters that's about it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was wondering if sparks plugs are different. I read here somewhere, but can't find it again that a certain spark plug will give you aprox 5 hp throught all ranges, if this is true i would gladly pay double or triple for this, wouldn't eyeryone? , if it is also safe for the engine that is. Thanks for any responces. Charlie

    All any plug can do, is burn the gas injected into the cylinder. If the plug is not burning all the fuel, you will smell fuel coming out of the exhaust. As long as the oem plugs are in good condition, I don't see any other type of plug adding HP. A lot of people like to buy higher resistance plug wires, and not matching up the rest of the ignition system. The way I hear it, if the spark plug wires are stronger, they will only put more pressure on the coil and other ignition parts. I say keep everything OEM.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't think the rear drums have been serviced yet and I haven't had any problems.

    Sorry, but I was talking about rear disk brakes only. Should have made that clear, I guess. :blush: My old truck had rear drums, and at 60k miles they still looked brand new.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I'm sorry, I'm kind of dumb. I keep forgetting that you have an EX (SE?). Either way I haven't had the drums checked, I've heard that they're a B---- and a half to fix. Pardon my french. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Yes, drum brakes have a lot more small parts, reassembly can get complicated, and are a dirty job compared to disks. The best way to make sure everything is put back together correctly, is to do one side at a time, so you can take a look at the other side for reference. Of course to do this, you have to jack up the entire rear end, and remove both wheels and drums.
  • I have a 2003 EX 4cyl. with 72K Miles. In the first snow storm of the year, my ABS light went on and my wheels would lock up, making my car just about undriveable. I was able to make it home and brought to my mechanic the next day. They replaced the calipers on my rear brakes, and the light went off. The next snow storm, the light went on again, and my wheels locked up. This time I had the car towed to my work parking lot. The next day, I drove the car and the light went off after about 5 monutes, and drives fine. My mechanic couldn't find anything else wrong. It sounds to me like a sensor problem when it snows, but I don't understand why the wheels are locking up? Has anyone experienced this??
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you describe what you mean by "my wheels locked up".

    Does that mean that while you were driving and then applied the brakes, that one or more of the wheels locked up and began to slide on the slippery surface, and if so, which wheel(s)?

    Or, do you mean, that the brakes applied themselves and locked all four wheels, preventing you from driving the car?

    Or, do you mean something totally different from those scenarios?
  • The light comes on before I apply the brakes. I'm not even 100% sure if it it the actual wheels that are locking, but when I apply the accelerator, the engine will rev, bu the car won't move, it'll just spin.. Thanks for replying
  • I have an squeal/grinding noise that appears to be coming from the pulley. Does anyone happen to know if it is possible to replace the belt tensioner pulley without having to R&R the tensioner assembly? Thank you.
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