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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Just an update...

    Went by the dealer today to have my horn looked at (sounds personal, doesn't it? :shades: ). They told me the "high" horn is finished; not making a sound. What I'm hearing now is the low horn, and even that is growling - about to play out. The horns are $65 apiece, installation is $100 (one hour). The total estimate, after clips and tax was $264.45.

    Needless to say, I'm going to see what my local mechanic would charge for the install, and see if I can find horns at a pull-a-part place. Not going to have anything done to the other horn quits on me. Right now, it makes loud noise, its just a bit embarassing to honk it.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,406
    It is hard to tell my I4 is running when it is at idle, but I have a stick so it is always in neutral at a stop sign.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,406
    Just buy an air horn and roll down the window.

    I bet you could DIY the horn install - should be pretty easy (20 minutes). The 09 Accord horn ($15 below) is being put in the Fit by a lot of people who want more horn. It looks like it is just one piece and it should fit easily in your Accord.

    http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~horn~assy~38100-STK-A02.html
  • Give that horn a good whack with a stick!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    :) If only the illustrious elroy were here with his shop manual on a horn install...
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The service manual simply says to remove the bulkhead cover (that plastic piece between the grill and the radiator, then remove the horns. You can test them just by connecting them to the battery. It says the connector is just one prong, so it must ground itself (no ground wire). Most of clips that hold the bulkhead cover are easy to remove. You just pull the center part up, then pull the entire clip out. Be gentle with them, or you could break a couple. The screw clips in the corner, by the headlight, can be tricky to remove. I destroyed those two, and replace them with new ones. The service manual doesn't even say what holds the horns in place (screw, bolt?), so you'll have to take a look on that. Shouldn't be hard at all.
    Any questions?

    Illustrious? I almost fell on the floor laughing at that one. :D
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    The nice thing about it, grad, is that if Shifty's whack doesn't work and Elroy's advice about removal is a problem, the worst that you are out is a few clips and a horn that is already broken anyway. :shades:
  • I have an 03 Accord EXL that also had a horn problem. They sounded anemic. Found replacement on Amazon.com made by PIAA @ $40. Went to Walmart and bought some electrical connectors and wire in the auto section. Removed the plastic cover over the radiator (simply pry out the small tabs) and I also removed the small grille to better access the horns. They bolt on. There is a single wire to the horn and a honda attachment plug. Removed both horns, removed the connectors, stripped a bit of wire, attached new connectors and made 2 pig tail ground wires. Extremely easy to do, 20 min later, brand new horns. Sound great!!!! :shades:
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    The odo says 30,xxx miles and the service indicator is on with 15% oil life. I wonder how much the 30k service would cost. I understand dealers will add much work to jack up the price. Can I know (1) with the maintenace work only required by the manual, how much should it cost on average? (2) how much do dealer usually ask for? Thanks so much!
  • I really do not know what is up with my 03' Accord V4. Whenever stopped at a traffic light, with my foot on the brake, the car keeps kicking as if it is struggling to stay in place. I put the car in park and as soon as the kicking stops the car goes below 500 RPM and the engine shuts off. I then have to turn the keys in the ignition again to start the car up. Once turned on, the kicking begins and it seems the engine is only not struggling when my foot is on the accelerator or it is in park in which case it turns off. WHAT IS GOING ON?!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The code on the service indicator (B12, A1, B2, etc) will tell you exactly what you need to have done. Brake fluid should also be changed every three years, independent of the service light.

    At 28k my car hit me with a need for oil/filter change, tire rotation, air filter change, cabin filter change. I just had it all done again (minus the cabin filter) at Big Ten Tires (chain), for $51, with my 15% indicator once again showing a B 1,2 at 56,000 miles.

    I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder, automatic.
  • aamixyaamixy Posts: 69
    Hi thegraduate, thanks for the info. That's unbelieveably low cost. :) I think there is no way I can get that price at any Honda dealer. Even for A1, I was charged around 70 bucks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That's why I don't use the dealer, and don't plan to except for transmission service (I want them responsible should something happen - I still have a powertrain warranty). My breakdown:

    Oil Change - $19.99
    Oil Filter - $7.00
    Air Filter - $19.99
    Tire Rotation - Free, I bought my tires there. They also balance and align for free.

    The remainder was tax and disposal fee. I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.
  • At the 30k I also did the brake fluid change, the inside air filter, and wiper blades. I think the brake fluid was $7 for the blessed Honda brake fluid, the inside air filter was $23, and the wiper refills were <$10 for both I think, but I can't find the receipt for that.
  • Sounds like a bad Idle Air Control valve and or low coolant to me.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.

    The moisture the brake fluid absorbs can also rust the calliper piston, and cause it to start leaking, so it's not just the master cylinder that could go out. I think you are safe for 4 years, but I would not go longer than that.
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.
  • Hello all -

    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again? I last did it around 32k and now I'm at just under 72k. I just got an oil change and they pulled the filter. It looks pretty gnarly, but looks can be deceiving. They also did a fuel line cleaning and blew out some carbon that had built up over the 7 years since the car was born. Any ideas. I had them look at the spark plugs just in case and they said that the plugs are still in good shape.

    Thanks,
    tankbeans

    2003 Accord LX Coupe 71,850
  • Speaking of brake fluid flushed would you guess Tires Plus would use the recommended fluid? I need to do mine since I'm not sure if it's been done yet. I certainly haven't yet and I've had the car almost 3 years.

    I think whatever fluid they use will be fine. There is a DOT grade (3, 4, 5) and as long as they use the right one, it should be fine. I mockingly refer to Honda factory fluids as being blessed, but they all have to meet the same requirements to be qualified by DOT. Just like SAE requirements for motor oil.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again?

    Depending on how you drive, changing the air filter every 30k is certainly reasonable... and recommended, IIRC.
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