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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    For anybody with a stick shift.

    I just went through a creaking clutch issue. I saw that some people were getting the master cylinder replaced - on another board.

    It turns out that a liberal application of white lithium grease in a spay can does wonders when applied to the plunger below the pedal and the spring up above. Spray works well because it gets to the hard to reach areas. Clutch now feels as good as new with 90k miles. No more clicking/creaking/groaning when being depressed. or released.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    well, if you had asked, I could have told you this.

    I did go through the sueaky clutch syndrome (while under warranty), and got a new clutch master cylinder (hey, it was free, so why not).

    Then, about a year ago (out of warranty) is was squeaking again. Told the service writer. He proceded to get a can of spray lube, disappear into the footwell for a minute, and came out saying it was fixed. He did what you said, sprayed the linkage and rubber parts. SInce then, not a peep.

    It never impacted the feel or performance. It was just annoying. But not any more!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I did the procedure (left the batt unplugged for 30 min) and it appears to have worked. Originally I could go 30+ miles before the gauge left the top most position. Then, when I got a new battery (before the ILP) that number dropped to 18-22 miles or so. Tonight, it took 38 miles.

    I think it worked. I'm taking a highway trip Friday and will let you all know.

    Thanks alamocity!
  • alamocityalamocity Posts: 680
    Hope it works for you, glad I could be of help.
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Hello, I have a 2006 Accord Coupe Ex V-6. Just the other day I went to auto-recline the seat and when I went to return it to its proper upright position, it started making a clicking noise and stopped half way up. After messing around with it for a while I got it to go back up, but now the seat will not recline at all. It is stuck in its position. The seat still power slides forward and backward and up and down, but it will just not recline or come forward. Just wondering if anyone has an idea of what this could be? It seems weird that for a 2006 I would be experiencing problems like this. I had a 98 Accord and just sold it last year and never had any power seat troubles. Thank you to anyone with a little insight.
  • dan41dan41 Posts: 180
    My wife's accord ran flawlessly for the first 4 years. However, after the manufacturer's warranty expired, we had the problems listed below. Fortunately, I purchased the Honda 7 year/100K extended warranty and am I glad I did.

    Fan Motor Replaced in 2009 @ about 55K miles.

    Navigation System Replaced in 2009 @ 60K miles.

    Transmission failed & replaced in 2010 @ 66K miles.

    Navigation System not recognizing voice commands and I will schedule for service.

    We have 67K miles on the accord and given the failures we've had, I would be hard pressed to purchase another Honda. Had I not purchased the extended warranty, I would have been hit with repair bills exceeding $6,000.
  • Re:#5386 by dan41
    Yeah, it certainly makes you gun-shy, wanting to invest in another Honda Accord, or whatever; after such major repairs with less than 100,000 miles. We had to replace our transmission at 170,000 miles, even after a maintenance program of every 15,000 mi ATF fluid "change-out"!! Especially after hearing from Honda & non-Honda people, that this powertrain was "bulletproof". Tidbit of news: You can purchase an extended warranty for new or used vehicles up to 150,000 miles, bumper-to-bumper, through AAA; just read it in their magazine, Highroads, Sept/Oct 2010 issue/Call 877-943-3539 or visit "AAA.COM/WARRANTY" to receive a quote. Hopefully, this may give you the piece of mind, needed, especially since you have already invested time and money, and were looking for that Honda assurance and dependability.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I am on the opposite end of the spectrum. I see extended warranties as a complete waste. I bought the extended warranty for my 92 EX, and never needed it. The only out-of-pocket repair that car had, after the regular warranty ran out, was an A/C temperature control knob (under $5), which cracked. When I bought the 03 EX V6 I quickly declined the offer of an extended warranty. It now has 80k miles on it, and I've only replaced a door lock actuator (under $40). Chances are, the extended warranty will cost more than the repairs needed in 100k miles. Honda has been very very good to me.
  • Hve a 2005 Accord EX V6, after big problems with the power failing it was determined the throttle body was the culprit. Had it changed at 99,000 miles, happened again today with 102,000, it is being re-fixed under warranty, but i am worried, mechanic said this has been the error being brought up with the computer, anyone else have anything like this??? Thanks in advance.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I agree w/ elroy5 about the extended warranty on the Honda. Since 2004, Me, my wife, and dad have bought 3 new Honda cars - 2004 Accord I4, 2007 CR-V EX-L, 2007 Accord I4. Never bought the extended warranty. On my 2004 Accord, in early '09, had a problem w/.. something after the engine w/ the accord well over 100k miles. I think it was somewhere w/in a hundred to a few hundred to fix. Otherwise nothing out of that. With my 2007 Accord, I messed up some rubber seal or something when I was standing out of my sunroof to do something and since I finally got around to taking it to the dealer just a little bit after warranty expired, they split the cost of with me making my total $50

    The 2004 Accord (bought 4/2004( is at a little over 166,371 miles and the 2007 accord (bought 9/2007) is at a little over 36,611 miles. Not sure what the CR-V is at.

    The extended warranties would have been a waste for me on two cars so far.. mostly a waste on another - but still have a ways to go w/ mileage so could be wrong on that.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm a little confused - what's this whole idle learn procedure all about? I have a 2004 accord i4 sedan, 2007 i4 coupe, and 2007 cr-v ex-L. Bought all new
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    lilengineerboy: Thanks for the information on shocks, some good lessons learned with your write-up. I'm handling the maintenance for 4 cars between my wife and family. On our two higher mileage cars, 2004 Accord (166k+) and 2007 CR-V (70kish? 80kish?) haven't done anything w/ shocks.

    daveturner: I've bought from tirerack before and had a fine experience. Also have used to get prices down from local B&M places. My favorite place to go when replacing all 4 tires is wal-mart. I feel their price is low and you can come back for a tire balance and rotation for a lifetime
  • Hello all,

    i have been going through the past posts of this forum and they are great.

    I just bought an used 06 accord lx. the car is in good condition and has under 40k miles on it. I wanted to know, is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system? I have had a bad experience car shopping with dealers so i dont trust them now so i thought i might get to know this here.

    Also, i was a bit disappointed that TPMS is not standard on 06 accord. I saw these cheap 5$ valves at the store which indicate if the tire pressure if below/above 27psi. are they reliable? i am a lil nervous because when you fix them, the tires valve will be open 24/7 and the tires will have to depends on these fixtures. whats a good way of monitoring tire pressure?

    Cheers! :) :)
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    have not ever used those caps, but I know what you are talking about.

    Simplest solution is to get a good quality digital gauge, and just check them on a regular basis. Do it weekly at first to get a baseline, and if all the tires seem to hold air normally, even once a month should be sufficient, unless you do really high miles per week.

    Other than that, visually inspect them frequently for damage, or a noticeable sag (though it would have to be real low to stand out).

    Also check them before you take any longer trip, and especially when the weather changes (coming up fast in the NE!). tires can lose ~1# per 10 degree temp drop, so they may be fine at 80, but 5#low at 30.

    always check them cold. I like to check cold, then hot the same day to see how much they expand. Then you can make a mental adjustment if you have to check or add air when they are hot.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    also, the simpler versions don't actually tell you that your tires are low. they basically tell you that 1 is different than the others. So, if all your tires are low but evenly so, no warning.

    the fancy ones actually take individual readings, which is much more worthwhile IMO

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    edited September 2010
    Replying to the last post I made (back in 2/22/2010) regarding my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord I4 EX Sedan. At the time, the car was at something over 152,124 miles. I had discussed the oil change I just had done along w/ the tire rotation and balance from walmart. I took it to Firestone w/in a couple weeks after to have the alignment done along with a list of inspections that I pulled They were:
    150,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance: Inspect drive belt
    140,000 mi Scheduled Maintenance:
    Check front and rear brake wear
    Check parking brake adjustment
    Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
    Inspect suspension components
    Inspect driveshaft boots
    Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
    Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
    Inspect exhaust system
    Inspect fuel lines and connections

    As far as I know, all these things were fine (I took care of all service items/inspections before then). I don't have that write up on me.

    Today the car was at 166,371 miles. I finally took car of the air filter and cabin air filter (not sure when the last time I took care of them was - I think something in the 120k miles). Not sure when I grabbed the Cabin air filter but the air filter was $23.95 from the dealer after being priced down as low as possible for them to match's online price of $20.49.

    Also today, had taken the car to Firestone to have the alignment done (Have lifetime alignment from them, had the tire rotation and balance done - also free lifetime from walmart - I believe in August. Like to have alignment after rotation and balance). According to the printout, It was taken from -.07 total toe/.02 steer ahead front, .32 total toe/0.0 thrust angle rear to -.05 total toe/.01 steer ahead front and .05 total toe .01 steer ahead. There was something about aftermarket parts for a correction but it wasn't needed? My brother picked it up so I'm not sure. In the paperwork, there's a printout which has the following:
    Front camber: Nothing
    Front Caster: Nothing
    Front Toe: Nothing
    Rear Camber: honda/Acura EZ Arm XR - 2 options: 67290 (Specialty Products) / 5.67290k (Eibach)
    Fear Toe: Nothing
    Ride Heigh: 4.4540 (Eibach) Sportline Performance Lowering Springs

    Quite of things going on in the car according to Firestone. Will be taking to Honda dealer today for an oil change so I'll hear their opinions. then I'll go with whoever's the better option:
    1) Brakes and Rotors - the biggest thing.
    - QC537 Ceramic Disc Brake pads PD537 ($69.99) + R Disc brake rotor(2x$105) + $90 labor = $369.99
    - QC914 Ceramic Disc Brake Pads PD914 ($59.99) + Brake Rotor (2x$68.99)+$90 labor = $287.97
    These are pretty dead. Looking at the visual inspection writeup:
    LF: 85% worn/.901 rotor, RF 85% worn/.900 rotor/LR95% .301 Rotor/101?%worn Grooved .290

    If I go w/ the dealer for the brakes, they'll be Honda OEM. If I go w/ Firestone, I'm not sure who they'll use. I'm torn on what's best, this post from lilengineerboy stood out to me amongst quite a few posts discussing this.

    2) Battery (Marginal) at $94.99 + $15 labor - My brother mentioned jumps have been needed lately. This I've gotten from Sears I'm not sure how many years back - I want to say in or before '07 because I remember being upset I didn't take the battery to dealer because I thought I read something about a warranty full replacement.

    3) Brake Fluid flush (test strip failure) - $20 parts, $60 labor, $23 addition labor to bleed ABS - $103. I already knew this because I'm pretty sure last one was around 3 years ago (car's 6 years old so makes sense). I've purchased two bottles of the Honda Brake Fluid so I'm hoping that'll soften the blow of price. At Firestone alone, it would knock off $20 from the parts cost (however, when I brought up, they said it must be parts they acquire - however, for my '07 CR-V brake fluid flush I had done a few months back, they did allow me to bring in my own brake fluid and made the cost $80ish I believe).

    4) Serpentine/700K7Poly Rib belt - $46.99 parts + $100 labor = $146.99 - not sure what this is all about

    5) Fuel System Flush suggested- cost? - not sure what this is all about

    6) Headlight - 9006 halogen capsule $13.99 + $30 labor

    They also mentioned tires but I'll cover those in a separate post.

    Seems that's all that was checked, they didn't do a Complete Vehicle Inspection. Usually if I ask for it they will for free instead of the $20 since I'm a gold rewards member.

    Lastly, there's a mention that the maintenance and ABS lights are on. The ABS light has been on for a while. The maintenance light should go away once the next oil change today. The oil changes I supply my own oil (Mobil 1) and Honda oil filter so it keeps the costs low. I was going to go w/ Mobil 1 5w-20 instead of the 5w-30 based on the discussion that followed from my last post ( lilengineerboy's post and tankbean's post) but I only had the 20 on me. I'll get back to the 5w-20 next time.

    It's also worth mentioning that I've pushed this oil around 14k miles - usually I aim for not much above 10k miles. I didn't mean to, just lost track

    I've also mentioned all the things Firestone has pointed out in a letter. And also, as per's maintenance schedule: 160,000 mi Inspect idle speed - I've asked them if they can look into it (assuming the costs aren't too bad).

    Let's see what happens.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Just did a long post on what's going on w/ my 2004 Accord EX I4 at 166,3xx miles. I didn't get into details of the tires though. I have a separate chain of posts going regarding that so I thought I would keep it up. I'm replying to my last post on the tires where I discovered that my dad had put on 4 Goodyear P205/55R16 89H Eagle RS tires.

    Right now, the tires are seem to be fine - at least according to the Firestone Courtesy Check. The front outer/inner is at 5 and the rear outer/inner is at 6.

    in lilengineer boy's reply to that post, he mentions the downsides of having the smaller tire. He also mentions the limited options for 16" tires and what I could do with 17" tires (I didn't know that was an option - but wouldn't that also cause problems like the smaller size?). chucko3 also mentions that these tires were downgraded in both: speed rating & load index and that's probably why they wear out faster.

    I'll start looking into replacement options through this thread
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I did a pretty detailed post on my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord a couple hours ago. I mentioned I took care of the air and cabin air filter in it yesterday. At the same time I took care of both filters in my wife's 2007 Accord I4 coupe too. The cabin air filter I grabbed a few days ago at the Dealer for $28.13 - the guy wouldn't match or even reduce the price any to handa-accessories price of $12.45 (at least as of the 6/26/10 printout I brought w/ me). I need to make sure I stock up on the cabin air filters because it's over double the price to get the OEM filter from the dealer. The Air filter I had picked up a while back at a price not too far from's price.

    I posted last back in June about this car (this post is a reply to that). Back then, it was about what my next move was going to be reagarding the oil change and inspection. At the time of that post, the car was at 32,723 miles. Finally 33,611 miles I took care of the oil change from the dealer for $34.09. I really should learn how to do my own oil change so I can save some money, but at least I also got the multi-point inspection which I think addressed all the items which should have been covered according to that Edmunds site.

    No problem issues. The main items covered and marked satisfactory were battery, fluid levels, external drive belts/radiator hoses, brake lines/hoses/parking brake cable, shock/struts/suspension/tie rod ends/steering gear, exhaust, and drive shaft boots. The tires are still in good shape at 7/32

    As far as I know, as of then and now, there's nothing else to cover.

    The other noteworthy thing happened after I was standing through the sunroof one day for something and I messed something up because after that, on the highway, there was a small windnoise coming in. Finally got around to taking it to the dealer on 8/30 at 36,391 miles - AFTER my warranty just expired. So they said they'd meet me halfway on the cost and just charge me $50 to reinstall the sunroof seal.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Not too far behind you with my old (now my sister's) 2004 Accord I4 sedan. Today when I did the air filter and cabin air filter change, the car was at 166,371 miles. Been Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic since 30k miles I think or something around there. And I do 10k miles in between oil changes. According to the manual, you can do 10k in between oil changes w/ even just Honda oil. And other "big" items like coolant, transmission fluid didn't even show up til 120k miles.

    Only unexpected thing so far has been an Internal failure of the Canister Shut valve which occurred in November, 2008. The car was at 122,566 miles at the time and the cost was $300ish or something (I got it lower w/ a $100 off coupon I randomly had for that dealer).
  • With regards to your air & cabin filters; Look for NAPA monthly specials on oil and air and cabin filters. NAPA Gold air filters can be had for free; or $10 to $15 apiece. Oil filters can be bought from free (as in 2nd filter free), to $5 apiece, as in their most recent August '10 monthly special. Cabin filters can be had for $10 apiece, in certain monthly specials, especially since you replace them every 15,000 miles---gives you time to plan & keep more "monies" in your pocket!! Pretty cool--hey? Hope this helps
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