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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    the fuel system item is probably them trying to sell you an overpriced but unneeded (and sometimes bad) fuel system power cleaning.

    as to the 17" tires, you can go with them, but of course you need new wheels too, so will not be cheap. the V6 model came with 17", so there is a plus 1 size that will get you right about the same overall diameter. the 55 series ones with the same section width will be lower overall, one impact of which is screwing up your speedometer/odometer slightly.

    not sure I would want the firestone dealer touching the idle speed (since it is no longer a little screw on the side of the carb!). not sure what there is to do other than look at the tach to make sure it is idling at the approriate speed, and evenly.

    I had brakes done at Mr. Tire. did a nice job, and used upgraded aftermarket pads. and a lot cheaper than the dealer. With 166K on the clock already, I would not worry too much about having the dealer do this!

    and the serpentine belt, if original, is probably on borrowed time. Look for dry rot/cracks, etc. As noted, not very expensive part, but can be a hassle in labor, but certainly DIY if you want to give it a try!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system?

    That depends on who you talk to. :) Some don't like to wait that long for oil changes but that is an ongoing debate for all cars.

    I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    is there anything which is not alerted by the Maint Minder system?

    That depends on who you talk to. :) Some don't like to wait that long for oil changes but that is an ongoing debate for all cars.

    I think the next two things that I see most around here and elsewhere is changing brake fluid and changing transmission fluid. You may want to seek advice on those items and then decide how you will handle it on your car. Otherwise, I don't think people have any major issues with the Maint. Minder suggestions. Although some have problems with the system in general and like to do things strictly on time and/or mileage.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    edited September 2010
    I wanted to post an update on my 2004 Accord I4 sedan and respond to some of the replies I have already gotten (thanks guys!)

    The car had been left with a Honda Dealer here in Clarksville, MD. They got back to me this morning and the following have been handled.

    1) Oil Change was $20 since I had my own oil and filter.

    2) The brake fluid flush was $169.95 but then I told them that I had the fluid already in the trunk which took the price down to $125 for labor only. Then I made them aware of a 15% coupon I had and that made the total $85. I was ok with that, and that was along same lines as firestone's pricing assuming I could even convince them to use a part I didn't get from them (I mentioned they were giving me a hard time about this and they hadn't a few months ago w/ the '07 CR-V brake fluid flush).

    3) They said with a $129 diagnostic fee they would hook my car to the computer and could take care of the ABS light and inspecting the idle speed in one shot. Luckily, a coupon saved me here also because I had a 50% off engine light check coupon so that took it down to $65.
    (Stickguy, you had some concern on only having the dealer handle idling speed in your post. I only intended to have this done at the dealer. )
    They just got back to me and said that regarding the ABS, the rear wheel sensor is needed and that's $232.

    4) Headlight would be $15 and no charge for the labor. I mentioned I may already have a headlight inthe car passenger side that works and they said if it did, there would be no charge for it which I ws happy about because from what I understand, i's not easy to take care of the headlight (haven't done it myself yet on any of the hondas).

    So all those item are being carried out right now. The total will be $191ish to $205ish depending on the headlight.

    So here's what's not being handled by them right now which was mentioned earlier
    1) Brake light - they said it was $6 but I think I can handle that on my own. Just need to figure out what to grab and how much it would cost. Maybe I can just grab something from dealer when car is picked up.

    2) The brakes-The verdict was severe on their end too. Replace rear rotors and pads. The front brakework is pads for sure, and they said they may or may not need new rotors but then looked closely and said they should be replaced.
    The cost breakdown is:
    Rear: $205 rotors + $80 pads + labor = $500ish more or less
    Front: rotors are $17 each more + pads and labor similarly priced = $34 + $500ish more or less - or (if the front rotors don't have to be replaced I'd be looking at $325is)
    What I don't know is the actual parts, assuming OEM.

    Compare these costs to Firestone which I will most probably go with:
    Rear: wagner therma quietp pads ($69.99) + qualis rotors ($105 each) + $90 labor = $370
    Front: same brand pads ($59.99) + same brand rotor ($68.99) + labor ($90) = $290

    Pretty decent savings in going with Firestone. If the dealer had said the the front rotors didn't need to be replaced and could just be resurfaced. I could then try to see if they would accept another local competitor coupon for a Honda dealer nearby which has a front brake special which includes resurfacing rotors for $189.95 (down from their normal cost of $250 which is still cheaper than this dealer.

    (Stickguy, you mentioned how Mr Tire put in upgraded after market brake pads in your post. What kind of brake pads were they? Would you recommend I use them in my car?)

    3) The battery was never brought up but pretty sure there really is an issue there and I want to try to see what sears would do with it anyways

    4) serpentine belt never brought up so I called and left a message on that to hear the dealer's thoughts (thanks for making me aware of it in your same post stickguy), I don't recall seeing anything in the maintenance guides about it. The dealer got back to me and said it would be $175 to handle.

    Regarding everything else that was brought up in the replies that I haven't covered:
    Stickguy, regarding your posts which I have referred to already, you also mentioned fuel system item, yeah I think it's probably junk too.

    The only thing remaining is your tire feedback which I'll cover in my tire series of posts.

    Edhollow, in your post, you gave some advice on cheaping out on the air filter and cabin air filter and oil filters. Thanks for the info, how do these compare to what I get from the dealer or handa-accessories.com? Also you mentioned replacing the air filter and cabin air filter every 15,000 miles but I do it every 30k miles.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    I forget now if they were wagner or raybestos. But they were a much higher line pad then standard (and claimed to be better than the less than stellar Honda OEM, aka crapola, pads). most of the brake job is labor, so spending $10-$20 extra on much better pads seemed like a smart idea. I just had the rotors redone (this was the back only).

    dealer is very high for this job.

    taillight bulbs is simple, but for $6, I would let them do it (then again, I am lazy).

    The serpentine belt I believe is only listed as an inspect and replace if needed item. 160K, you are pushing your luck most likely, and that baby has given it's all.

    Do the battery at Walmart. 1/2 the price of the dealer, and free install. They are also top rated by CR. get the higher output one if they have it, for maybe $10 extra.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    I forgot to mention, I also had the brake fluid changed when the rear brakes were done (at 40K, about 3.5 years). Had a coupon, so it cost about $65? maybe a little more. I did not worry about the fluid. I know it was not honda OEM, but it was whatever grade it called for.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • I bought a 2003 Honda Accord Coupe EX 4-Cylinder and 2 years after I bought it the radio light went out. I went to Honda about it, but because I didn't buy the extended warranty (because I paid cash for the car) they said it would cost me $800 to get it fixed! I finally had the radio replaced in 2008 and just last month (2 yrs. later) the light went out again. There seems to be only a 2 year life on their radio light. I wrote Honda a letter and they had some minimum wage worker call me to say it was just an isolated incident and it sucked to be me. What I want to know is HOW MANY MORE ACCORD OWNERS OUT THERE ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH THEIR RADIOS? No way can this be just an isolated incident. I love my car, but I WILL trade it for a Toyota or Nissan, because I love their cars too.
  • This is NOT isolated. Mine went out two years ago. Honda did have a recall, but only for a certain VIN number (and mine wasn't one of them). I called them and they will not do a darn thing about it and I won't buy another Honda again.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited September 2010
    If you were an original owner, you would have gotten one of these. It's a cheap fix, now that they aren't changing the entire radio. Just the Printed Curcuit Board. You should be able to get reimbursed for the charge on the first radio.

    image
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    Good to know, in case my 2005 goes out!

    actually, I would have tried this anyway. I had a nissan Quest, and it had the same flaw. Mine went bad after warranty period (and it did not occur to me to grovel with them). So, I went to a local fancy audio shop. They pulled the radio out, and resoldered the connections on the board, then put it back in. Cost maybe $100? way cheaper than replacing the expensive OEM head unit on the deluxe stereo we had.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • I am having a problem with my electronic sun roof. It worked intermittently and now it does not work at all, being frozen in the open position. Has anyone else had this probem?

    Thanks,

    Michael
  • Check your fuses and then if you know how, bypass the sunroof switch or at least read the voltage to it. If fuses and switch check out, it might be the motor.
  • Thanks for the tip. I did that and found the fuse to be OK. So, it must either be the switch or the motor. When you say bypass the sunroof switch, what do you mean by that?
  • Well I meant bridge it with a wire as if it weren't even in the circuit---go around it, in other words, so that the current is no longer interrupted by the switch. If the sunroof suddenly comes to life, well then you know it was the switch most likely.

    Or at least test both sides of the switch with a test light, to make sure current is going through it.
  • Thanks for the tip! I will try it out.
  • How many miles have those with 2003-2007 series 4 cylinder manual Accords gone before needing to replace the clutch? I'm at 125+ K miles and mine feels like it is starting to go. :sick:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I'm only at 85k on the original so it will be awhile. My 95 Accord EX lasted over 200k before I had to do anything. Of course, I did have to replace a couple of clutch master cylinders during that time. :sick:
  • A clutch is one thing that it's life can be dramatically different driver to driver. I had a relative who liked to rev the engine while releasing the clutch pedal. He only got 26k out of his clutch. Another friend had the same car and got over 200k before he sold it with the original clutch. How you drive the car can make a big difference.

    Mrbill
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,407
    91k on my 2007 clutch and it feels better than new (since I lubed the linkage).

    Never had to replace a clutch before - 230k on my Integra and the clutch feels fine.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,692
    edited September 2010
    Clutch wear factors (in my opinion), in order of importance:

    1. Driver
    2. Geography
    3. Design of the car's powertrain & weight

    So, worst case scenario----unskillful driver, San Francisco, car with low-torque engine and economy differential carrying passengers.
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