Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

1269270272274275292

Comments

  • I am sure.. I paid the bill for it. its a 2007.. drove the 2008.. couldnt stand it.. they has a few 2007;s on the lot.. we bought one.
  • So I have been pretty busy and its been a while since I've been on here. The '07 Accord EX has had some trials and tribulations mostly beyond its control, but the issue that has been driving me nuts is the squeaking and squawking when it goes from fall to winter (i.e. it gets cold).
    I bought the blessed shin-itsu grease stuff, for $14 online, reportedly straight from Mr. Honda's eh :sick: something. I cleaned all the weather stripping around the doors and windows and then treated all of the rubber with the grease. While I still think this is one of the most ridiculous automotive maintenance tasks I've ever had to perform, it did do the trick and the commute is much quieter. Now its just the dash rattles.
    Oh and as far as some other threads, 50k and I haven't replaced tires or brakes (except fluid) but its all highway driving.
    I am at a point, with the car almost paid for, where I am trying to decide: do I want to modify it to make it enjoyable or just start over with something else and payments?
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    Has anyone experienced this...?
    We have a 2005 Accord LX 4 cylinder automatic with just under 30,000 miles. My wife drives it on short local trips. The car is very well maintained.

    The car sits out at night (no garage). We live in a cold climate and the overnight temperature is near zero and single digits.

    We've noticed when it gets colder outside, the car takes longer and longer to crank over to start (6 or 8 cranks). It takes quite a few seconds to crank over, then the engine feels like it's slamming as it does start. We put a new battery in it last year because the battery was 4 years old and we felt there wasn't enough cold cranking amps to keep up the extended cranking when it gets cold. We have the new battery in it and it still takes a long time to crank. We also had the oil changed last month, too. The car runs, drives, and shifts fine after it starts.

    I have a newer 2008 CR-V with the same 4-banger engine. It sits outside too next to the Accord, and it starts (slowly) in about 2 or 3 cranks in zero weather and doesn't slam when it starts. Both cars get gasoline from the same station.

    Does anybody have any ideas why it takes so long for the Accord to start when it's cold? When the car heats up or the outside temperature warms up, the car starts perfectly fine.
  • Only 17000 miles on my 2006 EX-4cyl, and I'm already on my second battery (the first was something of a lemon, as I judged it). Even now, however, cold weather starting isn't as good as I would like.

    Rather than keep it cranking in the first try, I've found that a quick release of the key after 2 or 3 cranks, then waiting 5-10 seconds before trying again, works very well. On the second attempt, it starts up in an instant. So far, at least, this seems to be the best way to deal with a battery which frankly isn't as powerful as it ought to be, regardless of age. It's the biggest shortcoming of an otherwise well-equipped vehicle, in my view.

    The slamming, which only occurs infrequently with me, is annoying, even more so because I really don't understand it. Someone else in the forum can perhaps enlighten us.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    Not sure what the slamming is - never had it happen.

    I did read in the owners manual that it cranks longer because of emissions. My accord always cranks a few times before it starts, even in the summer and even when the battery is full of juice and can crank forever. My Integra would start almost instantly.
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    It doesn't seem to be a battery issue.

    Both the Accord and the CR-V crank a few times before they start in all weather (hot or cold). Both of them crank the engine very slowly. I've heard other Hondas start and they're slow too.

    I'm just concerned that there's something going on with the fuel delivery in the Accord causing it not to turn over until after about 6 or 8 or 10 cranks. In sub-zero weather, there won't be enough battery (even a new battery) left to keep cranking it that long.

    Once the Accord has been driven or the outside temperature rises above single digits, the car starts perfectly fine every time. Figure that one out!!
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Try to prime the fuel pump and wait a couple seconds before cranking the engine when the temp is cold.
  • Suggestions: full synthetic oil, engine warming blanket (to make it easier to start) & keep oil from thickening or congealing"); hotter plugs to create a spark, for easier starting; the 2 to 5 seconds of cranking, leaving the key ignition energized to help the electric fuel pump crank gas, to reach the carburetor or fuel injectors! All great ideas, to lessen resistance for the cold battery, and circulate oil, a little easier. Hope this helps & Merry Christmas, Happy New Year!! :) ">
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    my 2005 (4 cyl, stick) has always been a sluggish starter. even when it is warm out, it doesn't sound happy about firing up. And when it is cold, it sounds like cross your finger time.

    and even last year after I got a new battery, it was still pretty sluggish. Always fired up eventually, but not a warm and fuzzy wait.

    one thing that I found (at walmart) was that they didn't carry a higher output battery in that size, so it is about the same 450CCA rating as the pitiful OEM.

    I also have an Odyssey and Acura TL that fire up immediately (especially the TL) and sound much more energetic. They also both have higher capacity (750ish) ratings.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    That is why I upgraded to the group 35 battery from the v-6. 640 CCA and a 9 year warranty (pro rated of course).

    The car still cranks a few times like it does in the summer, but they are faster cranks and the car never seems like it won't start.

    Interesting story about batteries. When Nissan first started bringing cars to the US they wondered why they were getting so many complaints about dead batteries. Turns out in Japan everybody would put a blanket over the car at night to keep it warm. In the US nobody did that so bigger batteries were needed.
  • tom017tom017 Posts: 16
    I even bought the new battery from the dealer and this is what was specified for the car.

    I'm afraid to put too much more CCA's. Years ago, a trusted mechanic told me if you put a much higher CCA rating battery in the car, you may be replacing the starter within the year.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    I think the mechanic's theory is more fanciful than based on fact. Starter motors are used for very short bursts and can take enormous abuse because of that. Besides, 12V is still 12V, no matter what the CCA's.

    MODERATOR

  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    My NTB battery croaked within 2 years. Replaced at the Honda Dealer. Dealer tests battery w/every oil change and caught it. I believe the Honda battery warranty on my new battery is 8 years with a 3 year free replacement. Good luck with it. Happy Holidaze to all.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Car will turn over more easily with synthetic oil. Use the oem spec weight synthetic 5-20? or 0-20 if permissible. Hope this helps.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Interesting re the window strip grease,think I'll try it. Less pressure in the tires or a softer riding tire might "fix" the dash rattle. Best,financially, to keep the car,if you think it's a good unit. You have already taken the depreciation:Why start the depreciation all over,again?
  • Have to share my battery experience. My wife also drives an 07 accord. About 2 mos ago the car was dead in the am so I charged the battery. It lasted the day and was dead the next am. Took to the local advance auto, they tested the electrical, said the battery was fine but the alternator was suspect. (They were running a battery special and I purchased one but did not have it installed). Took car to Honda for same tests. Was told the diagnostic would only be @ 15 min but ended up taking over an hour!!! And on top of that, they found....nothing wrong with the alternator, but, wait for it....it needed a new battery and of course since I was there and already invested an hour of labor, purchased the Honda 100 month battery at a total cost including the labor, of just over twice what the advance battery was costing. Here's where it gets really good. My wife drove her car home and parked in the garage. Later that night I went down to check on her car and noticed the interior dome light on... Of course I checked the doors (all shut) and then found the ceiling dome light switched on. I changed it to the auto off position. (Interesting Honda didn't notice)
    Seems our granddaughter is at the "push button / flip switch" age.
    In summary:
    1. Advance said I had good battery but alternator was bad
    2. Honda said alternator was ok, but battery was bad
    3. Battery was probably fine all the time
    My only consolation is that the battery was approaching its useful life anyway and better to have it changed before the cold weather arrived.
    Live and learn...
  • Interesting re the window strip grease,think I'll try it

    I did all the seals on the doors and on the frame where the door closes, as well as the window tracks (the windows are much faster now). Hopefully that will help the longevity of the window motors, since all the window motors on my '93 Accord failed between 5 and 7 years (not terrible, but on my '96 FORD Contour they never failed).

    Best,financially, to keep the car,if you think it's a good unit.

    Yeah, I think it was always the wrong car for me to buy. Its a size to big and not very interesting to drive. The upside is 32 mpg on my commute, and it holds a child seat in the center rear position and allows the use of the two outside seats by normal people.

    You have already taken the depreciation:Why start the depreciation all over,again?

    I am weighing that against the modifications I would like to make the car more palatable to me, knowing the expense of those modifications and their affect on resale value. Firmer suspension and lower profile, firmer tires (and wheels) offsets a lot of the savings. And would likely make whatever loose rattle issues I have now considerably worse.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    My battery experience was much less dramatic. Pulled into the Honda express oil change facility. Honda does free checks with the oil change and discovered the NTB battery was below good. Sold me the Honda battery for $113. Took the NTB battery back and got a full refund from NTB. I prefer to deal with fewer vs. more vendors. 3 year free replacement on the Honda battery,the $99 NTB battery was gone in less than 2 years.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I would not go beyond higher performance tires on the oem rims,but,then, I'm an unexciting person. .02.
  • I would not go beyond higher performance tires on the oem rims,but,then, I'm an unexciting person. .02.

    Well, if you have the 17" wheels, that is relatively easy, but since I have the 16" wheels coupled with 205/60 tires, I am SOL there. I have been keeping my eye out for a stock sport or aftermarket 17" wheel that will let me run 215/50R17s which have a lot more options. There are several Honda/Acura wheels that will work, and a billion aftermarket ones.
    Some of the spring manufacturers make a "mild drop" spring that only lowers the car about 1" so it should still do well enough in snow. Coupled with some sport oriented shocks, that should give a much more connected feel. The Acura TL has thicker sway bars and that is an easy afternoon upgrade for the rear, somewhat more involved in the front since you must drop the sub-frame.
    If I can get H/A 17" wheels and TL sway bars, that would make the shocks and springs the only non-oem parts.
Sign In or Register to comment.