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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    Synthetic is a different story. Synthetic does not break down as petroleum oil does.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    edited January 2011
    Went to the Honda dealer today with a printout of this: http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?catalogID=65&productID- - =5&yearID=38&doorID=4&gradeID=487&areaID=2&transmissionID=7&originID=-1&colorLab- - elIDs=-1&colorLabelID=-1&sectionID=5&idAndImageID=11980%20465815&isBigPicture=Fa- - lse&pageName=Battery%20%28V6%29

    Told them I needed parts #3 (PLATE, BATTERY SETTING (70D)) , 5 (BOX, BATTERY (70D)) , and 6 (COVER, BATTERY).

    At first he told me the price was going to be $80-something and that he had none of the parts in stock. But that was around double what I could have gotten from the hondapartsnow link. So he adjusted the price down to $54.93 total and that seemed fair. I'm not sure what shipping was for all the stuff I needed from hondapartsnow.com anyways.

    Here's the breakdown of the parts I ordered, the cost at hondapartsnow.com and the price the dealer gave me:

    #3) 31512-SDB-A01 PLATE, BATTERY SETTING (70D) USA 1 $6.87 $4.98
    #5) 31521-SDB-A10 BOX, BATTERY (70D) USA 1 $21.90 $15.88
    #6) 31531-SDB-A00 COVER, BATTERY USA 1 $23.05 $16.71

    (It's funny, the price that's crossed out on the hondapartsnow.com website is the exact cost of the parts that the dealer went down to.)

    Anyways, the parts will be here on Wednesday. I still haven't picked up the battery yet, plan to try and get tomorrow. Need to go through your posts dudleyr to finalize the other tools I need for this install. I hope to have the better battery securely installed in my wife's car by the weekend
  • rec2rec2 Posts: 1
    Hello.

    My 2006 accord is doing the exact same thing. Were you able to determine what the problem is?
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    I Saw the replies from # temj12, fw_man, dudleyr, and dolfan1 to the extended oil intervals I've been doing in my '07 accord i4.

    On my the next oil change I'll push the oil around the same amount as I've been doing and send in the oil for a used oil analysis. I'm guessing I've had 5 oil changes now, all at the dealer, and I believe each one was decently past the maintenance minder.

    I mentioned this before - in my '04 accord i4, as per the manual, you could go 10k in between oil changes, 20k in between oil filter changes. In my '08 IS 350, the manual says 5k in between oil changes but many threads in forums for the car/oil say you can go 10k miles there too and be fine. That's why I've always never taken the maintenance minder seriously. I like set schedules.

    I'm planning to start doing my own oil changes soon and would like to start using Mobil 1 synthetic (it's what I use in my '08 IS 350 and my '04 Accord i4). I just hadn't gotten around to start using it in the '07 Accord i4.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    My wife's '07 Accord was bought new in September 2007 and my dad's CR-V was bought new in (iirc) May 2007. I don't believe the brake fluid change has been done in either car yet and I believe it's supposed to be done every 3 years independent of mileage. I picked up brake fluid from the dealer sometime in '10, specifically "Honda Genuine Brake Fluid DOT 3." I have two 12-oz bottles for each of the vehicles (so four 12-oz bottles total).

    Anyone have any hands on experience with doing this? I stumbled across this thread on clublexus.com which involves DIY brake fluid change for the second generation Lexus IS. I'm planning on following the instructions on here to do the change myself on my '08 IS 350.

    I did a search on brake fluid and found the following posts:

    #5165 of 5566 Re: - [dudleyr] by elroy5
    Feb 06, 2010 (7:34 pm)
    Replying to: dudleyr (Feb 06, 2010 6:26 pm)
    ...and a hand -held vacuum pump is a one-time purchase.

    could you elaborate a little bit on the hand-held vacuum pump (I assume used to suck out the current fluid). I was planning on just using a turkey baster
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,570
    pumps make the job a lot easier. And less messy.

    If you want to get real fancy, there are electirc machines designed for the job that shops use. That would make it a eal quick process, but probably not cost effective!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • Could you post on Honda-Tech, there is a longer thread going there on this topic with more people with the same problem. Thanks
    http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?s=c6dfe522d4e8366ab0582cc264c0af7f&p=44- 496896
  • eviliusevilius Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    I heard about a lady in the Philippines that passed away due to this problem with the Accord 2006. Antoher driver had to ask a street child to smash the window so she could crawl out. Very dangerous if its really hot outside to be locked in.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    Please let me know what you oil analysis shows.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    Today I picked up the 3 parts I ordered to install the V6 battery in an i4 accord. Also got the battery too from walmart. Started on the blog post here:

    http://shahryar.net/2011/01/30/installing-a-v6-battery-in-2007-i4-4-cylinder-acc- ord/

    Hoping to do the install later today
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    Found this other thread on the same subject on driveaccord.net ( http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=786384#post786384 )

    Going to wait for the responses to my questions before I get started with the install, specifically on the need for the 32600-SDB-A00 CABLE ASSY and not the 31531-SDB-A00 COVER, BATTERY USA 1
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,406
    While it certainly would not hurt to install the larger cable for the ground, I don't think it is necessary. The V-6 has a larger alternator so it has a larger ground cable.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    did the battery swap yesterday. All the parts you recommended fit fine to accomodate the new battery. The problem though is that those skinny metal rods (that are "L" shaped) are not long enough for the new battery set up. I need longer ones
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,406
    My metal rods did fit but barely. You can actually get those at any car parts store - they are pretty generic.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    edited February 2011
    Dudleyr, my uncle's a mechanic and had been helping me with this remaining part of the install. I went to visit him today and he had ordered longer rods however they were too long and would have needed to be cut. However someone else was there with him and they were able to make it work with the older rods. The used some tool which bent the edge down a bit and like yours, fit but barely. Everything is all set now. One thing I had done wrong was connect the cables to the terminals too high. They were lowered and tightened closer to the battery.

    Between your initial post here: and this post is all the information that someone needs to put a V6 battery in an i4 accord. thanks for all your help
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 232
    While getting all the battery work sorted out today at my uncle's (who's a mechanic) shop, I brought up that I needed to change the brake fluid soon because the manual says it should be changed every 3 years regardless of mileage. But we looked at the brake fluid together and he pointed out that it was clean and that there was plenty in there. Any thoughts? If it's not a big deal, I'll push it another year. I still have to take care of the brake fluid in my dad's '07 CR-V though which is now pushing 4 years of ownership (we had bought it new in May '07)
  • In the US, does my Honda Accord EX V6 with Navigation 5 Speed Automatic really have this feature:

    Multi-Reflector Halogen Headlights: with Auto-off

    I think the lights have been turning themselves off when I get out of the car in the past 5.5 years, but they may not be now and they may be draining the battery. Note that there is no Auto setting on the steering wheel light stem.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    They are not auto-on like some cars but they should turn off automatically. I'm a little confused about how you "think" they have been turning off and they "may not be" now. :confuse: I'm guessing you'd be able to tell this for sure by looking at them when you got out of the car. What am I missing?
  • lambanlaa1lambanlaa1 Posts: 5
    edited April 2011
    I "think" that they have been turning themselves off, because, even though they remain on when I get out of the car and lock it via my key remote, when I return to the car, even after a short time (inside a store, for example), they are off.

    Hope that clarifies that statement.

    Lambanlaa
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Well, that is exactly what they are supposed to do. What makes you think that they are no longer working? Are they on when you return from the store now?

    I believe they stay on for about 30 seconds to a minute. I would suggest that you just wait outside your car and watch them. If they are still on after 5 minutes, something is wrong.
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