Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    Thanks. It didn't work when the neg. cable was removed for 12 seconds, but it did work when the neg. cable was removed for 12 minutes!! THANK YOU. ;) ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    Well I think I said 2 minutes, so I was only wrong by ten minutes---and what's 10 minutes in a lifetime? :P (unless of course it's your last 10 minutes).

    Good work! Glad to hear this has been squared away! :)


  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    Never know, Shifty. We're pretty close to the 21st, end of the world and all, and you're suggesting using valuable final moments on WAITING. :)

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I had to have my hose replaced in June after noticing smoke coming from the engine. I am told by the company that I will be reimbursed for my costs( remains to be seen) but not provided a new "heat resistant" hose because the repair was not completed by the dealership/ is an "aftermarket" part. My question is this; is my aftermarket part likely to be suitable or Heat resistant? I have been told that the original hose was probably a lesser quality hose and that the aftermarket hose is better quality, which is what they are scrambling to "manufacture" for replacements. Any parts people out there?
  • Too much heat is going to destroy any standard material hose if it gets too hot. I would guess they are installing a hose with a higher temperature rating, or even an insulated one.

    What about insulating the hose you installed? As an example: 1_3276&pt=N1808&ppt=C0379

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    When I replaced my hose, I looked at all the aftermarket hoses, and none of them looked like higher quality than OEM.
  • I have have a 2005 Homda accord. About a year ago the stereo stopped working. I've already called Honda to have it fixed, they won't unless I fork out $800, not gonna do that.

    The radio turns on, the display lights up like it should, I can switch stations and turn the volume up and down. I can insert CD's and eject them normally. The only thing I'm getting no sound from the radio, after about 10seconds I get like a static/ white noise sound through the speakers which I cannot turn up or down with the volume control.

    Just looking for answers if anyone has had the same issue or may know if its fixable, what ill need to do to fix it.

  • buyahomebuyahome Posts: 26
    edited February 2013
    Have you tried looking under the radio to be certain the wiring harness is securely plugged in? I'd suggest unplugging and waiting a minute or two and reconnecting the power and the speakers. Be certain to have your radio codes available including Navigation code if applicable.

    You may need a mirror to see the bottom of the radio. There are plenty of video on YouTube showing how easily the radio can be taken out or inspected for loose wires. Good luck.
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 15
    Received a coupon from my local Honda dealer offering to replace my Accord cabin air filter for only $69.95. Last year it was $59.95. Inflation I guess!

    For those of you who would rather save your hard earned money, this is a simple 5 min. (yes, even if you haven't done it before) do it yourself job that can be done for less than $20.00. That's a savings of at least $50.00.

    If anyones interested I will post the how to.
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    My 2007 I-4 SE is at 20% and soon is due for a oil change. Its been a year now and about 6500 miles. From the first oil change to now I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic, should I go ahead and change when the wrench appears or would waiting till the oil had 8000 or so miles be o.k.?? I've been putting a drop on a white paper towel and it still looks clean. Amber in color not dark at all. Oil prices are continuing to go up and I don't want to needlessly be wasting good oil!! :shades: :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    My two cents is that unless you perform an oil analysis, I wouldn't push past 7500 miles on an oil change.


  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    Well it turns out it has 5719 miles on it and it still looks clear and amber in color. Where can I get an oil analysis done and how much does it cost?? How reliable would the results be?? :shades: :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    edited April 2013
    Yeah, oil analysis is pretty good. The color of your oil is not a guarantee of its present chemical status.

    Here's one well-known company, along with their pitch:

    Their FAQ tab is actually rather amusing. :)


  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    Seems way too soon to change synthetic oil.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,049
    edited April 2013
    Like Mr Shiftright says, Blackstone is one. I have used them and they are good. Call and ask for a container free that they send you to use for shipping the oil. Takes 4-7 days by USPS to get to you. Pack it as they say on website and ship the container buying the stamp (sticker) for it by weight at the post office. The label is on the box already. If you go to PO desk, there is a paper on website to show if the clerk questions oil as being flammable--it's not. $2 to ship. $25 for analysis. I would add on the $10 for additive analysis to see how much is left at your mileage when you send the sample.

    Blackstone called me on first one. I don't know if that's typical--mine had a surprise in the analysis showing a slight Na and K increase (sodium and potassium) indicating coolant traces in oil. Turned out to be a seep at the throttle body gasket on 3800--almost a service item.

    They show a sample analysis result page you get by mail on first one and by email on successive tests.

    They do write helpful comments about the analysis just as they did in the sample. Your old test results are kept on their website IIRC under your email. So if you lose the email you can retrieve them later.

    I agree with other post that you might run up mileage more and then change oil, catch sample in middle of drain stream, and it will be worth the $25-35 just to know.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 853
    ...that this 2005 Honda Accord 6M V-6 coupe has been in my garage..........................

    I have been very impressed with the longevity of components......

    At circa 130,000 miles, the factory original elements noted below are still in place............

    1. Brake compoments

    2. Clutch

    3. The Iridiums

    I was at a local bar (eating lunch) and a north valley auto repair shop owner said (I wrote it down on a cocktail napkin (comes with lunch). "Those Iridiums will go 200,000 miles. Who knew? (My OM indicates 105,000 for replacement.)

    I sort of feel guilty (this month I plan to replace my 1982 VW diesel pickup - - - with 'nuther VW oil burner at that)

    all the best, ez
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    Might be worth $25 the first time just to see what 7,500 synthetic oil looks like and how far it has to expiration. That way, you'll know in the future how far to push it.

    While I am no fan of wasting money, pushing a synthetic past 7500 seems to me an awfully risky way of saving $75 bucks.


  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    What oil burner are you getting EZ? They don't make a pickup anymore - wish they did.
    Toureg? Passat? Jetta? Golf? I came pretty close to a Passat diesel recently, but wound up with another Accord (Stick of course). Hard to beat the reliability and durability. I changed the irridiums at 120k and they still looked fine (already had the new ones so I went ahead with it), Still have front brakes original at 161k, same for clutch. I did have to replace rear brakes because I dented the e-brake cable and it rusted shut, keeping the left rear engaged for a while before I got it fixed.

    Only repair in 161k was a new O2 sensor at about 110k. $90 and 15 minutes of my time. Use Mobil one 0w-20 and Pur1 synthetic filters about every 9k.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 853
    VW JSW TDI 6M now alongside HAV-6 6M in my garage.

    Love the wagon/dislike the heavy computer presence (plus attorney-written OM - NOT user friendly)

    Accord continues with factory original plugs, pads, rotors and clutch at 132,000.

    If the TDI can get anywhere close to this Honda from almost any measurement standpoint, I'm one happy (former) sailor.

    all the best, ez
  • smpear1smpear1 Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my battery and the radio code is not working, I get ERR 1, 2 etc until I hit all 10 allowed. I disconnected the neg battery terminal to give me another 10 tries but each time it gives me an error. I have used this code successfully every other time I have replaced the battery so I cannot figure out if I am missing a step or if maybe the radio lost its code somehow.

    Bascially, the radio (non-NAV BTW), will spell C-O-D-E as I enter the 5 digit code. On the 5th digit, it beeps and displays ERR 1.

    Any ideas would be appreciated, this is the same radio and code I have always used.

Sign In or Register to comment.