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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    Ozone and pollutants in the air cause the cracking. You must live in a large city.

    In South Dakota tires don't crack. Copper does not turn green either.
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    I live in middle Georgia. The original tires -michelin mxv4 green started to crack within about 8 mo. after I bought the car new. All the michelin tires I've owned in the last 20 or so years have had this problem. I've only lived in middle Georgia.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Michelin are the most over priced tires on the market IMHO. In addition, there have been many that are questioning the current quality of tires (based on many forums I follow) that have stated the EXACT SAME issue you have voiced concern about.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    edited September 2013
    The coasts are both = to large cities as far as pollutants go. The population of ND, SD, WY and MT combined is under 3 million - about half that of the Atlanta metro area.

    I can often drive an hour without seeing another car - not much pollution here.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    >Michelin are the most over priced tires

    I've found Michelins to be the value tire for drivers. I have Harmony tires on my leSabre with 95000 mi on them and 5/32 in. left on the treads. The started at 11/32 depth, I believe. Six years old.

    I have found Michelins to be the tire when you want one that will roll round and STAY round as it wears.

    They do show some surface cracking as they age. And on an older set of Harmony tires (9 years?) I even have some cracking in the tread grooves. But then I'm wearing them out because the car is going to the junkyard when I trade it or replace it.
  • I use the Michelin Primacy MXV4 "V" speed rated tires. I have received 90-100,000 miles wear on these tires, w/ 3/32nds to 4/32nds tread wear remaining. I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles, when I change my oil. Matter of fact, these last 2 tires, had to be changed w/95k miles; also, because of the begining of stress fractures, between the treads. I was fine with this since my tires are mileage rated for 60, 000 miles. Hope this helps!
  • Hope this helps, even if it comes later. I had to finally replace the stamped metal framework, which holds the bulbs. This took care of all the issues. I did try all the suggestions, in this forum--and that merely eliminated what was still working. This part was about $25 to $30.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Posts: 216
    I've noticed a few posts where people are changing their oil every XXX miles, apparently ignoring the Maintenance Minder. I've been going by the MM ever since purchasing my 07 SE (new). Is there a problem with that? Is there a reason some people don't use it?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    Use the minder. I have for 167k miles.
  • I own a 2003 Accord EX-L I4, Manual, with 321000kms on it. Over the past year I've changed/replaced the front drive shaft, both front ball joints and right front CB joint as well. Also got a new battery, new serp belt, all four brake pads and rotors. I change the oil every 4000km with Castrol High Mileage oil. Also got a new clutch in Spring 2010.

    I find that sometimes when I accelerate the car doesnt give me enough power and the pick up feels really slow, almost laggy?

    And whenever im leaving my underground garage and i pull my steering completely left cause of the sharp corners in the parking lot, i can hear something grinding against the disc or atleast i believe its the disc.

    The car runs solid in my opinion, gives me about 510km on a full tank for city and some highway driving.

    The check engine light does come on from time to time, usually on the highway when the car seems like its struggling for power.

    I dont know too much about cars, seeing as im 19 years old, hopefully you guys can offer me some advice on what i can do. My dad passed the car down to me, he says its probably been 3 years since the last tune up so im figuring it might need one.

    Thanks in advance
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    The car uses iridium plugs from the factors that last over 100k miles. If he replaced with copper plugs they will need changing much more often and that could be a problem. Also get a free engine scan from an auto parts store. They will tell you what your code is. It may be that you need a new oxygen sensor. My 2007 needed one at about 120k miles.
  • tldtld Posts: 37
    I believe my 05 4 cyl (96k) is developing a transmission whine that is audible in the upper gears from say 50 up. If there is steady throttle the slight noise is heard, let off it goes away. Anyone had any successful diagnosis and repair on this and what it costs?
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 853
    I can go with the diagnosis: The slight whine is there in 6th gear. It does seem to abate with throttle lift. Actually, it seems to abate with time. Could this be high frequency hearing loss?

    all the best, ez
  • So about a week ago, I noticed a sound (kinda sounds like a lose screw or something vibrating) when I got on the highway. It started when I reached 90kmh and stopped by the time I hit 100kmh. It seems like its coming from driver side of the car either at the left front wheel or somewhere in the engine/suspension. Its a 2003 accord sedan exl manual tranmission with 325300km on it and I just had a tune up done on it about two or three weeks ago. Any idea of what it could be?

    I'd appreciate the help!
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 90
    edited November 2013
    I'm having an intermittent problem of a electrical sound when I crank the car, anyone one else have that problem??? The car is under warranty til end of Jan. Should
    I take it to the dealer and at least get it on record or will they deny my complaint if they can't reproduce my complaint??? :confuse: Also does anyone know what brake fluid came in 07 accords, DOT 3 or DOT4?? I need to add some but don't want to mix 3 with 4.
  • Of course you should and demand it be fixed.
  • Hello 7th gen owners:

    I own a 2003 Accord sedan with 135K miles. I drive with the stereo on all the time, but not at a very loud volume or with high bass.

    After adjusting the fader control on my stereo to the rear speakers, I noticed that both of the rear speakers are not producing any sound whatsoever.

    Is it possible for both rear speakers to blow out at the same time? I'm searching for a pair of replacement rear speakers on Crutchfield, but could it be a connection at the front that could be at fault?

    Thank you for your input,

    Yoshi
  • With regards to both speakers; yeah, strange both go "out" close to the same time! Dbl check your adjustments on the radio 1st, because one can use front or rear speakers only. Remember also, the speakers in general are ten to eleven years old! Electronic parts can go-out at any time. Hope this helps...

  • Thank you for your input. I found that both rear speakers had indeed gone out. The paper cone crumbled away like potato chips. Bought a pair of Pioneer rear speakers from Best Buy and my stereo is producing sound from all four speakers.

    @fixitdaddy1 said: With regards to both speakers; yeah, strange both go "out" close to the same time! Dbl check your adjustments on the radio 1st, because one can use front or rear speakers only. Remember also, the speakers in general are ten to eleven years old! Electronic parts can go-out at any time. Hope this helps...

  • RagtopcarRagtopcar Posts: 6

    Hope some might give some insight of what I ight check next.

    I have a 04 Accord sedan, while driving today, noticed that my left turn signal was not working. When i signal to turn left, nothing happens. When I signal to turn right, the turn signal works. I then turned on my hazard lights and on the dash board, only the right arrow blinks.

    So the first thing I thought was broken turn signal blub. I replace the rear left turn signal blub and no change...still does not work. I then thought maybe it was the front turn signal blub was burnt out but when I turn on the parking lights, the left front parking light come on. I assume the front parking lights and the left turn signal uses the same blub (at least it looks that way).

    Have not idea what I might check next... anybody have any suggustions ?

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