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Jeep Liberty Diesel Maintenance and Repair

16791112

Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Hi Boiler,
    I believe the Provent will help the EGR Airflow Control Valve to survive, at least postpone the problem. I mean the rotary sensor/potentiometer and other contacts of the butterfly flap.
    I haven't installed mine because I found no reason to worry, since I only have the boost sensor along my intake path. I passed the 91,000 KM mark and my engine oil level is desperately stable. My EGR valve must be a solid chunk of soot by now, but if I have time this summer I will open the manifold for inspection. This engine has an excellent mechanical concept, it's just what's put around it that can cause problems.
  • Just an update. Jan. 11, had F37 recall done. Jan. 29th, loud bang, won't shift above 3rd gear, engine light on, called DCX and then sent a tow truck. Today is Feb. 21st. No parts, nothing moving yet. DCX would only take it to the nearest dealer, which only has one technician. This is the 5th time since October 13th that it has been in the shop. I will keep you posted. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Today I rotated my wheels, measured the disks (thickness varies between 28mm [new] and 26mm [worn]) and inspected the ball joints.
    Well, I discovered that disk wear is not really proportional to the mileage. It seems that once wear reaches 2/3rds of the way it is no longer predictable.
    The same applies to the ball joints. They had 1/3 of the play they have today after only 5000 miles.
    To conclude, it's time for 2 disks and a set of ball joints at 57,500 miles (92,000 KM). I have a bit more than 1mm play both sides.

    To those who don't know how to recognize a worn ball joint:
    - Lift the truck as described in the manual and let the complete wheel stay 3" off the ground
    - By lifting the wheel you can feel, see and hear the play!
    I did this once by hand and once with a lever. It's easy to do and a long depth caliper helps to measure the travel of the wheel against the fender.
  • The fluids were changed at 25 and the rear was checked I believe at 12.5k. Pulling from my over-used memory, I THINK that the lubrication requirement (weight of the oil) for the front and rear are different. Additive has to be used (so I was told by the service manager) if you have the trac-lock in the rear.

    Boiler
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Downloading of the image should be done separately because of it's large size.
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjoint.tif

    Notice the following:
    - The protective boot is not altered and made from PUR translucent material (best known so far for this application),
    - There is a lot of black grease inside the spherical chamber that looks like "Molykote",
    - There is a plastic liner around the ball, and this is deteriorated at the neck of the ball,
    - A fold of the protective boot is deteriorated over 1/2" or less and this gave way to humidity that you can see on the picture (where the grease is shiny),
    - The groove of the ball assembly where the protective boot is fixed shows traces of rust but no corrosion got through yet.

    To my understanding, the plastic liner of the ball didn't support the combination of grease and humidity. The only deterioration I can observe is the "collar piece" that is fixed onto the stem is chewed by compression against the outer wall of the spherical housing. When new, the plastic liner is an anti friction material inserted like a sock along the stem of the ball joint and protects the side of the sphere where the pressure is applied.

    Conclusion:
    It's the plastic liner around (and below) the ball that broke possibly due to the acidity of the grease and water mixture. Only the boot shows a 'pinch' that can let humidity in. The play of 1mm that I observed was in fact the thickness of the 'missing' plastic material. The ball itself is still in perfect condition and full of grease. But for how long?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    I put the ball joint on a lathe and removed the deformed steel material that keeps the assembly together by the top.

    This picture is taken when the top piece (steel pusher cap) is removed. You can see the plastic lining:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointtopoff.tif

    This picture is taken when the upper plastic pusher is removed:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointinsidetop.tif

    Here is the sphere with it's chewed collar and damaged lining of the housing. The lining is shaped like a barrel and the sphere is held captive in the grease just by pressing it in. It's difficult to see everything in detail because I'm doing this with a flatbed scanner :)
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointliningbelow.tif

    Finally here is the plastic lining seen from above. Notice the grease distribution slots:
    http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/wornballjointlining.tif

    I'm keeping this stuff for the sake of curiosity. I'm pretty sure someone out there will be as interrested as I was :shades:

    I think we can assume the cause for excessive play of these ball joints is that the plastic sleeve 'gives in' and flows until it hits the 'collar' piece mounted on the stem that is used for keeping the boot from collapsing and letting humidity in. Do you have any other ideas?
  • cleaned the boost sensor with acetone and compressed air. saw an immediate improvement in fuel mileage around town. From 19 mpg to 24 mpg. Just returned from 300 mile highway trip and got 29.5 t0 32 mpg's @ 1800 rpm (approx. 64 mph). Sensor was extremely dirty so I guess that was my problem.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    james176470: Boy there is a lot of difference in our CRD's. At 65mph I am doing close to 2100rpm at 70 mph we are doing 2350 rpm. If we were doing 1800 rpm we are somewhere close to 58 mph. Ours shifts into 5th lock up at 54 mph doing about 1700 rpm. Have you had the F37 recall done that really cuts the torque and power yet? DCX has made this Green Beast not as fast on the take off as our 1996 Dodge neon with 193,000 miles on it!
    If your rpm's and mph are correct that means ours is really way out of normal. Let me know please. I will double check ours today to make sure that I may be messed up, as we older citizens get older the memory sometimes plays tricks on the recall part.

    Farout
  • geedubbgeedubb Posts: 34
    My crd is more in line with james. 5th lockup at 60-61 mph and the rpm drops to 1700. at 70 mph rpm is 2100. I haven't checked the mph against a gps yet.

    Gary
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    james176470: Well I did go and my wife wrote the exact rpm's and the mph. Here was the exact results. 55mph = 1700rpm, 60 mph = 1900 rpm, 65 mpg = 2050 rpm. So this makes me wonder, is my crd that much off or is your Tac off? This brings some interesting questions into play. Check your again, and record the different mph with the rpm's please.

    Farout
  • Farout,
    I will check rpms @ mph next time out and let you know.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    5th Gear:

    RPM----Calculated-Observed
    1800--------62.8---------62
    1900--------66.2---------65
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    James171670: WOW! One of our CRD's is out of wack! Now which one is it? Maybe some one else can say what their CRD does. I will ask on the Liberty Diesel forum and see what is the "normal rpms.

    Farout
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    My odometer still reads 2% low after 30k miles. I would have thought that tire wear would have reduced that error by now. :confuse:
  • sjones15sjones15 Posts: 3
    after a maintenance run around in two cities, my hometown dealership finally found my problem.. the turbo boost sensor. how pertinent it was that you all were talking about it a few pages ago. It was replaced, along with a new ECM (?) and now the jeep seems to run okay. I still hear a bit of a whine/ wheeze on acceleration, and im worried there may still be air leaking from the turbo.. maybe a hose? I was looking to sell but i guess i'll keep it for now, but i am wary of problems, and if anything else gives me trouble, the CRD is history. And now after repairs, my cruise control doesnt work. strange.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    sjones15: Hey I guess I should not complain, ours kicks out only at little dips in the road. Guess what? My CRD is the ONLY one DCX has heard of with this problem. I have a hard time believing that. Keep records of everthing. I have 29900 miles and only 33 items have had to be repaired or fixed.

    Farout
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Caribou,where did you find a repair manual?I'd love to get my eyes on one,thank's...
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    Arvman, I bough two of the Bosch 'yellow' technical training booklets, the 'Chilton' repair book and I have the Jeep Liberty 2004-2005 repair manual in '.pdf' files as well.
    Each source has it's own interest.
    The Bosch booklets are useful to understand and predict the problems the injection system will encounter. The repair manual cd will mainly help you trace the error codes and be just a bit more helpful than the 'Chilton' book that you can have next to you when you get your hands dirty.
    In all cases I search the internet to access the manufacturer's database for a typical element or it's technical brochure. Because of possible copyrights I don't want to publish these files.
  • Farout, took a short trip today and recorded the following info: at 60 mph after 5 gear lockin i recorded 1800 rpm. At 65 mph = 1900 rpm, 70 mph = 2050rpm, and 75 mph = 2200 rpm.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    James1766470: Well we are sorta close, and the difference could be the tires we have. I have 245/70/16 with 25,000 on them. I had a flat and had to put on the orignal sapre and they seemed very close with the new tires sligltly smaller due to tread ware. Thanks. I think neither of us can do 70mph at 1800rpm.Maybe we got short changed?

    Farout
  • I hope someone can help me with a strange problem I'm having with my CRD.

    I had the F37 recall (torque converter replacement) completed Dec 2006. Soon after I found that when I turned the vehicle off and removed the key, the radio would mysteriously come back on and it was as if I had turned the key back on! This continued to happen, but only occasionally (it's a little embarrasing to walk out to the parking lot and hear your radio blasting!) I don't know if the problem has anything at all to do with the F37 recall and it may be just a coincidence.

    I was ready to take it into the dealer but the problem seemed to have corrected itself. It hasn't corrected itself and the dealer has now replaced the Body Control Module, the radio and the battery. They're stumped. I'm bummed. I can't trust the jeep and won't be taking it into the high country until this gets resolved. I'm also irritated because I LOVE the CRD, with the exception of this issue.

    Any ideas?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,350
    I experienced something similar:
    When stopping the engine and while it still turns to reach complete standstill, whatever I do with the switches screws up the Body Control Module. I think the BCM doesn't enjoy simultaneous changes of voltage and controls.
    I get one headlight turned on out of two or the interior lights stay on. I usually turn the key to "acc" position, do the reverse switching and this solves the problem.
    The same problem occurs on my professional car: It won't turn the windshield wipers on when it rains :lemon:
  • arvmanarvman Posts: 95
    Thank's caribou,happy motoring...
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    As my previous post indicated, I had the F-37 done in Jan. 11, 15 days later it blew, Jan. 29th and had to be towed to nearest dealership. There it sits. Can't get any parts. They said a new seal will be in on Friday the 16th. We will see. I think we must kick this up a notch, but not sure exactly which way to go. This is the 5th time since October in a dealership.The car is a 2005 CRD, 22k and 1-3/4 years old. Sitting at the dealership is going to use up my warranty. (I guess that really isn't a joke). Thanks for this forum. I have learned alot. Maybe more than I needed to know. I think we are pushing 60 days out of service, since October 13th. HamChamp :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :cry: :cry:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: You need to make a list of all the things and work that has been done. Call the Customer Care service at 800 992 1997. Ask them to have a higher up person review this. I would use the Lemon Law only as a last resort.
    We had our CRD in the shop 25 times in 15 months. Many times were for the same issues.
    Without asking Customer Care sent our case to the higher ups, then to DCX Headquarters. Then to the District Rep. DCX is buying our Liberty CRD for what we paid for it and we pay a mileage use fee. I am not at liberty to disclose that fee until this is completely resloved. We have almost 30,000 miles on it. We are to wind this all up in about 2 weeks. The big issue is to prove everything you have had done. We only had one oil change done by a place other than DCX.
    Being rude or angry will only make things worse, be cool and don't bad mouth any dealer or person, doing so makes you an adversary, and they reject bad attitudes. Hope this helps.

    Farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Thanks for your reply. I will give you an update. I had sent a certified letter, with the little card from the Jeep book to DCX. The same letter I sent to the dealer - A written copy for them. I have been pleasant at all time. I have my wife to thank for that. LOL Anyway, because of a past posting of yours, I called the 800 number. That really kicked it up a notch. That was this morning. While I was on the line, he called the dealership, that the Jeep was towed to, and the dealership that we purchased the Jeep from. He got back to us, while we waited. The part to fix the Jeep isnt available now. They have two suggestions, they will try another part number, or get permission to install another transmission. Also Customer Care is notify the District Mgr. I did tell them I would like it resolved between them and myself, and not have to use the Lemon Law. We just want a vehicle, be it our Jeep, or another vehicle, or a buy back. Thank you again. I will keep you all informed as to the progress. WE are to touch base on the 22nd of March. Sincerely, HamChamp
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchanp: It's so much nicer to hand someone a sweet flower than a pile of dung. Many of these people who are there to help are so used to being abused and insulted that those who are different, and show appreciation for the help, that they will go the extra mile for a kind person.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, I agree . Hamchamp
  • I have purchased a 2006 Liberty CRD, had the F37 recall performed and immediately noticed a difference in the power and a 2.5 miles per gallon drop in fuel economy. Have began the process of contacting the dealer and Chrysler Canada. They weren't been too response initially, but after I referred them to your forum they began to pay attention. For which I thank you immensely! Hopefully I can work something out with the parties involved, as I don't believe we have a lemon law in Canada.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    vancoverbrad: I acn't say about the Canadian CRD, but is did effect our CRD, enough that the passing power between 50mph and 70mph seemed like ut has lost it's get up and go. I am of the strong opinion that the CRD's in the US were no less that "test Market vehicles" that we paid DCX to do their testing for them. Would you have bought one had you known that there were going to be so many recalls?

    farout
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