Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Bronco Problems

2456712

Comments

  • Do you think that a cobalt drill bit would work? I have also heard that a carbide bit may do it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,669
    Not being a metallurgist, I can only guess. Hopefully the easy-out you used was a cheap one and isn't the hardest steel--if it's tooling bit grade steel, you're going to be drilling for a long time I'm afraid.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,669
    Well good luck and just take your time and keep your sense of humor and you'll be fine with it. Don't rush or get frustrated.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I went to Lowes and got a blackgold drill bit as well as a diamond grit drill bit. Figured I would give the blackgold a try since they say they are "stronger and sharper". They were the only place I could find the diamond grit drill bit. Here's to hoping.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,669
    Do you have a stout metal punch to punch out a starter hole before you drill?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • oldblue3oldblue3 Posts: 4
    I have had a few dozen of these broncos the motor is probably the problem 4 the wipers your wiring problem is probably at the front of the bronco by the battery the wires always get pinched right there there is also a wire there that will effect the running condition of the truck and radio shack sells a nice wire cleaner 4 about 6.00 bucks a can
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Posts: 4
    yes spring loaded impact center punch available at any local car parts chain
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Posts: 4
    check your lower ball joints
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Posts: 4
    about 3.00 to4.00 hundred you can save some if you choose to pull it yourself yes a 4wd truck trans will work providing its close to your year and make sure to put in an extra trans cooler with an electric fan it will cost a little extra but well worth it these trannys are known for overheating and the cooler and fan will increase the life of the new one a lot hope i helped you and good luck
  • falcon8falcon8 Posts: 1
    ABS light staying on.Checked relay and fuses.Not sure what resistance should be for sensors.Could I use a hand held code scanner to get codes, same one for ecm?
  • art20art20 Posts: 2
    I´m repairing YFA Carter Carburetor. There is a Sticker attached close to radiator that indicates that antidiesel screw must not be used to adjust idle speed and indicates to see Technical Service Bulletin 84-7-13. Any one has any comment?
  • wjameswjames Posts: 2
    I have a 95 bronco and when the transmission get hot it won,t work. I have it at a transmissoin shop and he can,t figure it out any answers...
  • I have an 89 Bronco II. After driving for about 15 minutes, the exhaust pops and starts to lose power. If I let it cool back down, it runs fine for 15 minutes (until it's heated back up).
    I've had the ignition module checked, O2 sensor checked, new coil, new computer. Nothing seems to be fixing the problem. Any suggestions?
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    sounds to me like you need an exhaust system does it seem like when you shut the car off you here tinkleing sounds or does it go away when you hit the gas do you see any difference in engine temp
  • It has a new exhaust. The sound from the exhaust is more like a misfire or a backfire under acceleration. It's more like something heats up after 15 minutes of running and it's not getting the proper signal sent to the computer. The other thing that happens when the power goes is the oil pressure gage acts like a tachometer....acts like there's no oil pressure if you're not pressing the gas. Once you hit the gas, it reads normal.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    well if it's not the cat i would look at the timing chain or gears often times the chain will expand enough to slip when engine is warm as engine cools the chain contracts so what happens is the timing becomes sloppy but doesn't actually slip
  • that makes sense. i'll give it a shot and check that out. i didn't think about that.
  • ocalastudocalastud Posts: 1
    Hey Falcon8,
    Did you make any progress with your ABS Lite problem? I've got the same situation and it's driving me crazy! I changed the Front Wheel Sensors and the Module, but No Luck! I understand that the rear end has a ABS Sensor also. Have you got a clue where it's at? I would appreciate any help sent my way.
    Rascalracers
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    it's on top of the diff. about center forward
  • wjameswjames Posts: 2
    I have a 95 bronco and the airbag light flashes all the time. Can I turn it off or is there a way to fix it. Thanks
  • i can not find any information on the correct ignition module for my bronco. it has only five wires and the only ones that have the same number of wires always switch the red and white wire. i have no way to replace the one that is in the bronco unless i can get a part number or some kind of info who do i need to see to get out of this mess. thanks. don
  • I need to know if a 2.9 transmission will hook up to a 2.8 motor.
  • My '89 Bronco II is making noise in 5th on the Mitsubishi 5 speed. Seems Ok in 1-4. Needs to be repaired. Question: Is it tough to put the Mazda 5 speed in place of the Mitsubishi? What needs to be changed other than the tranny? This vehicle has been so excellent for so long, there is no chance I'll not fix it.
  • I recently bought a 1988 with 89,000 miles (confirmed by car fax) drove it from San Francisco to Salt Lake City. It ran perfectly until I tried to go up in one of the canyons. The engine quit. Had it towed to a Ford dealership. They replaced the in tank fuel pump. It now runs but when I drive it up a steep canyon road it looses power and almost comes to a stop. If I apply full throttle I get power back again. Also, if I come to a complete stop and wait the engine runs very ruff then as though a switch is thrown it runs perfectly for a time. Once I start driving up again the whole process starts again. The rough engine and sudden on occurs even going down the mountain. I took it back to Ford they replaced a couple of electronic engine components to the tune of $800 and when test driven up the hill it did the same rough on and off. Salt Lake is about 4600 feet and the canyon road climbs to over 7000 rather quickly. Need help!!!! Any suggestions please!! Thanks Steve
  • deacon2deacon2 Posts: 8
    I would first find out what type of fuel pump was installed in the fuel tank. Some vehicles cannot operate appropriately with "stock" parts, Bronco is one of them in regards to fuel pumps, especially if you live in a mountainous region. I would also have the fuel injection system cleaned, or carburator if still equipped. Steep inclines like going from 4600 - 7000 feet will obviously make the system operate harder. Also have a diagnostic done to see if your EGR valve is in need of replacement. This is a fuel recirc system that may explain the rough running but not the loss of power going up and down hills, that is probably your type of fuel pump.
  • Thanks for your comments. Do you have any idea what fuel pump I should put in as you know this is the in tank low pressure pump. I also understand there is a low pressure regulator in conjunction to the pump. Could that be an issue?
  • i currently just baught a bronco 2 and for some reason its not running right. it starts right up and when u go some where it has no power and it tops at 10 to 15 mph so please help me
  • YO James!
    Some info for you;
    The air bag indicator will flash the appropriate diagnostic trouble code to indicate the suspect circuit. If the indicator is malfunctioning the tone will be heard.
    * Diagnostic trouble codes are prioritized numerically so if two or more different faults occur at the same time, the fault having the highest priority will be displayed first. After that fault has been corrected, the next highest priority fault will be displayed.
    Air Bag Diagnostic Codes, 92 Up, Ford
    Source: by screwy http://screwy.clubfte.com/
    Most common fault is the Clock Spring; can DIY if you are familair w/electrical/mech repairs or take it to a dealer.

    Do you have a horn &/or cruise contrl prob too?
    if so;
    Air Bag Diagnostic Code 32, Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open, Ford
    Source: by Jim G http://www.alldata.com/techtips/1999/19990927a.html

    and some DIY repairs to the Air Bag Clock Spring in my Bronco Tech Links site; http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=775

    GL!
  • yo Falcon!
    a 4WABS Overview first for you;
    link title http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/255501_1

    As you can see, just use the 12v test light to check the Codes
    and some 4WABS DIY repairs
    in my Bronco Tech Links site; http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=240
    GL!
Sign In or Register to comment.