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Ford Bronco Problems



  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    yo Joe!

    The FP relay is in da IRCM (formerly called da CCRM) and it is Mounted forward of the airbox The CCRM is not usually serviceable. But if you want to take a shot at it see Joe's info in Link below
    Troubleshoot & Repair Your Malfunctioning Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) - by - J o e F r a z i e r NATO Member "Joe Cool

    CCRM = Constant Control Relay Module , IRCM = Integrated Relay Control Module;. This relay contols the fan, fuel pump and A/C clutch if i'm not mistaken.
    the fuel pump relay is tied into the IRCM on 94-95s; Since 1986, Ford has used, on several models, an Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) to operate the fuel pump, engine cooling fan and compressor clutch. During the early 1990’s, the
    name was changed to Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM). The module has a 24-pin connector .
    more Tech Info:

  • Wherr is the realy for the ABS.It is not marked and there is lots of realys under the hood.thanks
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    Relay? Do you mean the Test Connector?
    4WABS System Component Locations, DTCs & Self Test & Connector Diagram; 93-96; The 4WABS is located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST - in my 96 it is near the hood hinge
    Source: by Steve83 & miesk5

    if Relay in;
    Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 93
    Source: by Troll Banned
  • My 95 Bronco has a 5.0 302 engine in it. The bearings went bad so i bought a new long block. The new motor has hydralic lifters and cam my old motor has roller lifters and cam. Does that make any difference. The problem i am having with the new motor is 5 & 7 there is no compretion ? please and thank you for your help :confuse:
  • Thanks-The re;lay is what I was after.For some reason my owners manual shows the realy, but not what it is for.
  • I decided to replace the abs sensor($20) on the differential(guy at ford dealer said they go bad quite often) and it did not help.I had my doubts, but gave it a try.The code I got was a 17(possible relay, fuse, intermittent valve failures, opens or shorts to ground,high resistance valves etc) when I did the test prior.I tried swapping the horn relay with the ABS relay in the Distribution box which had the same numbers on them and that did not make the lite go out.I only started the vehicle in the garage which I felt should be enough to make the lite go out if the sensor or relay was the culprit.Are there any resistance readings on the wires comeing from the rear sensor that I should look for.One reads 5k and the other has very high res.Would like to fix the problem if possible.thanks
  • vehicle starts and runs but will start to stall out from a stop. will often stall out when slowing down. did all summer. this winter i noted that the the battery gauge would start to go down first and then it would quit.the needle sits on the M but when it starts the stall outs it sits on the R. it did oscillate a couple of time at night and the gauge went up and down as the lights brightened and dimmed. one mechanic stated he thought it was the trottle sensor. but there has been a few times where after it has done the stop and i restart that it just cranked and cranked and cranked, with no restart, but as soon as i turn it completely off and hit the key it starts back up.

    ignition module? or stick of dynamite
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    17 Reference Voltage/Intermittent Valve Fault
    Possible Source(s):
    · 30 amp fuse open.
    · Intermittent connections to battery, main relay or ground. @ driver's side radiator support and;
    · Main relay coil or contacts open. MIESK5 note; check relay contacts FOR corrosion pull relay again & ck ;
    also see Fig. 12 and on (in below LINK) for pin point tests of CODE 17 -· Open or short to ground in Circuit 532 (O/Y). · Open or short to ground in Circuit 599 (PK/LG).
    · Open or short to ground in Circuit 601 (LG/PK).MIESK5 note; FROM FUSE PANEL 30 amp fuse
    · Short to ground through anti-lock hydraulic control unit.
    · Intermittent valve failures.
    · High resistance valves.

    So, ck that Relay's contacts (not the relay's contacts, but the connector's contacts.)

    Here is Chilton's wiring diagram via autozone; you will see all above ckts and color codes in Fig. 8: 4-wheel ABS testing-1993-96 Bronco models - irInfoPages.htm

    Also, R values for all in Fig. 10:
    Read thru all of that Chilton stuff; can save you $ btw, the rear ABS sensor on the diff would give Code 57.

  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    yo madmastiff,

    Take it to get a free batty, alternator, etc check at AutoZone, Also Adv Auto may do it free too;
    possible battery, grounds, connectors, etc.
    Did you do the Self TEst for Codes? if not, get it done free at the AZ and post results here.

  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    Ck with folks you bought the long Block from to see if the cam is for rollers.

    Most likely; Could be just a head gasket which has blown between those two cylinders, sticky valve(s) etc.
    or worse; Another possibility is that the camshaft is broken in an area that operates valves for two adjacent cylinders. not likely..

    read more here Compression Testing, Stem
    Source: by
    A leakdown will determine whats going on in those cylinders,look inside the radiator for any "brown foam" to see if the head gasket is blown.Aside from that the leakdown will tell you all thats going on

  • Is there more than one relay for the ABS system?
  • thanks for the info miesk5
    electrics all check on nov. 1 as i got a new battery that day. have not tried the check the codes
    heading to AZ tomorrow morning.
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    No bav, just that one relay; ck the socket for corrosion before you do anythaNG
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    OK MADm!
  • ok-thanks.I wish I had waited and not replaced the rear sensor.Could have saved $20.Something I did notice before the ABS light came on was that sometimes when I lightly touched the brake pedal it felt like it would stick and pop out.Not sure if that tells you anything.Live and learn
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    yo BAV!
    Doubt that it is the brake pedal, Look @ that AutoZone Link I posted and go thru the pin point tests for that Code. In reply mode here, I can't view what I posted.
  • got the codes and fond a p334.ergsystem high signal for the sensor.

    had a cracked erg tube
    valve system was shot
    and the sensor..
    $339 in parts and its running right.
  • hi i have an 86 bronco and will somtimes start but it hesitats and dies iv taken it to 2 local shops and ran it on the computer but cant find nothing. they said its getting a positive charge on both injector wires. they cant find no broken wires grounds ar good and i put a new distributer and computer in. chek engin light is off. i dont know what to do. PLEAS HELLP.
  • I recently purchased a 1994 Bronco that had a blown engine. After replacing the engine, and chasing down all the electrical problems I have a problem I can't fix. The overhead console comes on for about 5 seconds when the key is first turned on, and then it goes out. The display shows "188 e var/cal 00
    Any help would be appreciated
  • miesk5miesk5 Posts: 35
    Did the shop say anything about the TFI Module? Sometimes a new TFI can be a bad unit.

    Ck yourself;
    TFI Module Failure, Troubleshooting Tips, Ford
    Source: by
    and a general one w/other tests;
    TFI Module Diagnostics Manual
    Source: by Timing: (11)
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