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Lincoln MKS



  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    The cabin filter is located behind the glovebox. The access door has little tabs. You lift up and pull.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thank you very much. I was just returning to the site to say I located, just where you say it is.
    I had been doing a lot of searching and became convinced it must exist since it is listed under several manufacturers for 2010 MKS. Purolator even has a chart for instructions by their part number. Alas the MKS part number is not in that chart. I found where others were trying to find that filter on Taurus and said to be behind glove box. I also learned there are filters under front seats for cooling seats. Someone posted that it cost him $41 each on his vehicle, and they are rather small. Look sort of like a filter for some gas masks.
    Fortunately mine appear like new.
    The CAF is a different story. Impossible to tell if it was ever replaced, unless I can dig records, and it is FOMOCO. Rather dirty, but not needing immediate replacement with another Ford one. What surprised me is it is not a carbon impregnated filter. It is made of what appears to be long fibered glass in part and appears to be a quality filter.
    I likely will not find the filtration specs of Ford filter.
    I will be replacing as soon as I research alternatives. I will be getting carbon impregnated to remove any objectionable odors. A bit difficult to tell for sure, but it appears that it would filter both outside and recirculated air. I can say that it seems something is getting past it from the outside. When running in that position, I've been getting the feeling of being dirtied by pollen. I have terrible allergies to some irritants and besides bothering sinuses it will make my exposed skin itch.
    Therefore I will search for a filter that is capable of fine filtration without obstruction of air flow, even if that means changing more frequently since it may plug by catching the finer debris.
    And that said, a caution for those who have not serviced, if plugging up, it will effect heating and cooling system. First it will strain the fan motor because it won't be able to properly move air. And it will then make problems with AC. Not having sufficient air moving across evaporator will at least decrease efficiency of system. And depending upon if it is a pressure related cycling system, it could run with much higher head pressures than necessary causing extra wear on the compressor. A harder working compressor will die earlier and eat more fuel.
    Sadly the only mention of existance is in the scheduled maintenance which says inspect at 7500 miles, replace at 15K, if it exists.
    Thanks again bruce.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited April 2012
    Oops! It is mentioned at the last part of the section on A/C, but nothing in the index.
    I've since downloaded the pdf version, which is searchable.
    I've also pulled my filter and it's not near as plugged as I would have suspected considering the heavy pollen around here. I suspect that is because I most of the time run the system in recirculate. And because of my sensitivity to pollen, dust, etc. I feel like it is still coming in with outside air. And although it appears to be of quality manufacturer, I can not find any specs as to how small of particles it will remove. It obviously is not carbon impregnated which means it is not designed to remove odors like some are.
    I have ordered an alternative filter that at least gave size specs for removal and is impregnated with a biocide. It is the same chemical and manufacturer of filters for clean environments such as hospitals. Since this filter also functions for the recirculate I thought this would be a good choice because it will stopped trapped particles from releasing mold spores or other potentially bad bacteria. And that is possible from past experience. I had bought a used Sable and after some time I noticed that it was putting less air out of vents in the outside position than recirculate. I later discovered that it had a CAF and eventually found it. Found it coated with a layer that peeled away like a blanket. The quality of that filter was so good it merely had to be thoroughly washed and then good as new.
    Happy motoring.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If you have been searching for an alternate CAF since the Ford will not remove odors, caution, WIX has a bad listing for 2010.
  • joshcsjoshcs Posts: 8
    What would be a minimum to average credit score to lease a Lincoln? Any model...
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    Your question might be "buried" in this discussion and not noticed by those who can offer advice. You might try posting in our General Questions about Leasing discussion, where it's more likely to get feedback.

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  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    To date, I've had the TSB for front brakes and 2 damaged door seals replaced. Not a big deal. I suspect there may be an issue with the rear as well. Next time they clean my car at dealer, or anywhere, I will ask to be careful about getting product on rotors. First sensation is decreased braking, then with more braking/heating of it, grabbing sensation starts. Relative to the rear brakes, it compounded the sensation of the rear brakes not handling their fair share. lurching and nose dropping with braking. I will wait and see if cleaning residues continue concern.
    With door seals replaced, I can now pursue bad air entering. I've had field dust coming in as well as some odors when running in recirculate.
    I'd appreciate any input on possibilities.
    So far, the likely suspect is the recirculate door. You know the fan noise level changes if switching between inside and outside air. I noticed yesterday that there is some variance with the fan set to constant speed. Perhaps running a calibration routine of doors will fix. Maybe the door motor.
    Also I noticed a air leak location. Front of front door where two door panels meet, the door seal is not able to seal that channel. Some sort of filler to level the surface would work. Also aiding in stopping noise penetration.
    Wow, new door seals are much firmer. A heavier door swing to close is needed. It would be nice if they stay that way.
    Also had one time event of braking pulling car to one side then later to the other. Possibly new front brakes, so it is wait and see. They would have been well broken in, so hope it is not a lube or slide issue.
    And it would make me happy if the engine cutout was just an anomaly. Driving steady speed, for just a moment, engine cut. Either an ignition or fuel circuit hiccup.
    The slight wheel play is also wait and see. I wish it gone but mostly hope it don't get worse. Smiling but not quite ear to ear.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I was tickled happy when I read the list of good luxury cars to own. The MKS was second on the list. Although the determination was likely subjective, they used Edmonds total cost of ownership in the determination. The initial costs used appeared to be for base models. And what was striking about the MKS was the percentage of vehicle price for added costs was relatively low. If you've never looked, those figures are for maintenance, depreciation, fuel, insurance, etc. The first on the list was the Hyundai Genisys, two Hyundai on list, but vehicles that started in the $70's and 80's also.
    Happy Motoring
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Got my first paint chip on hood. Suspect is wife who likes to follow too damn close. Any experience in fixing? I'd like to know.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,666
    Touch up kits work well. I use .
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks. I'll take a look at what they have. Issue I've seen in past is getting it to match level.
    I've actually got two places. When they hung the front panel for painting, there was some run to a pointed corner where a glob accumulated. It broke while I was washing car.
    I think I presumed the tri-coat included a clear coat.

    I also need to check out foam availability for doing the fix for lower door splatter. On white it really looks nasty. And I'll look for some thin stuff to act as filler to plug that leak at the front inside edge of door.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,666
    Paintscratch gives you everything to make it level including separate basecoat/clearcoat and even rubbing compound and sandpaper if you're willing to invest the time.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Maybe not. They say there is a mid-coat on the tri-coat white, but it is not shown as part of the kit for mine. It shows the rubbing, sandpaper, base coat and clear coat only in the kit.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,666
    Sure it does.

    Since this is a tricoat paint, all prices below include the basecoat and midcoat paint layers

    The Tricoat paint includes both the basecoat and midcoat. I ordered the Pen version of the kit in the same white platinum tricoat a couple of years ago. You get all 3 coats.

    You can also note that the price of the Tricoat column is almost twice what the basecoat costs in a non tricoat color.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Even in recirculate, a small amount of outside air is mandated to be brought in to keep positive pressure in the cabin, so that exhaust gasses are sucked in. Unlikely, but a safety matter. Therefore, you may get a whif of dust. Usually your cabin filter will resolve it quickly.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Do you know how that is accomplished, the extra air? CAF, unlike some earlier FLM, is not carbon impregnated or of fine filtration. It is much like the paper used on the engine air filter, only designed to catch bigger particles.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    A couple of days ago I had to hit brakes as a bit of panic. Fortunately situation cleared because the brakes did not do as expected.
    It feels like full apply does not occur immediately. Slight pedal travel before resistance and start of apply. But a lot of travel beyond that, using much force, before full braking and maybe ABS activation.
    Anyone have any ideas about this?
    It is definitely not braking like anything else where I've had to stop hard.
    Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?
    Definitely not feeling safe and seems intermittant.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    A few days back, being farther in the country, on the drive home I noticed that something was getting in with the air. It made all my exposed skin irritated and bothered sinus. I realized that it was not in recirculate, too late. Switching it, did not seem to clear the air.
    It was not until I was near back to the island that the thought occured that if I manually cranked up fan speed it was force more filtering of the air already inside vehicle, to the limit of the filter anyway. That either helped or I was already in cleaner air.
    As to that positive air flow being required, I certainly can do without it. I am going to attempt sealing cabin better and may start with the advice for sealing lower area of doors against splash, thanks to poster.
    Letting me know any areas of outside air intrusion are appreciated. Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Is there a way to temporarily disable ABS to see if that changes anything?

    That won't change anything. Different brake pads will make them more grabby, if that's what you want. Ford has probably used ceramic pads, which last forever, but IMO, don't stop worth a damn.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Maybe not as to changing something, if switched off. Just a trouble-shooting technique. It would depend upon how the components are connected.
    Grabby pads can't be the issue unless something else is not functioning properly.
    There seems like there might be a recovery time of several seconds before full braking is available on a second hard brake.
    Of my many years, many vehicles, I've had a few brake issues. Failing booster, brake hose, sticking caliper, warped rotors, master cylinder, just plain worn out, etc. Each has unique feel and symptoms, although a bad hose and caliper will feel about the same on the pedal. Even had one that any hard braking would result in the back end coming around. Second owner and it still had the brake bleeding tool attached to the diverter/proportioning valve from the factory.
    Symptom wise, current situation feels most like a bad booster with a partial blockage in main brake line.
    Without better troubleshooting, I'd suspect a piece of debris that partially blocks flow to wheels and then maybe before next braking it settles out of way.
    Somewhat of a lack of direct constant proportion between amount of pedal applied and braking acheived at wheel.
    Does this vehicle have what GM bragged about on some vehicles, a pre-charge system?
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