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Lincoln MKS



  • Why did you re-tune the car when with the added cost of retuning you would have been able to purchase a BMW 5 series vehicle? You also would have a vehicle that holds it resale very well. Here after 3 yrs, the BMW has about 72 % of its purchase price. The after market re-tuning on your Lincoln does nothing to add to the resale value of your car. Also how does this re-tuning affect the vehicle's warranty?

    How happy could you be if you had to after market re-tune the vehicle? I would have done some research on the vehicle before buying to determine if the car's road manners where on par with my performance expectations.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Hmmm....unitedkingdom, how can I say this politely? I will put it this way: I do not give a rat's [non-permissible content removed] about BMWs or resale value.

    I only have a mild interest in warranties but I am fully aware that if my modification causes a mechanical problem, it is MY problem. That is a chance I am willing to take after doing considerable research, visiting with the tuner and chatting with hundreds of SHO owners who have done tuning much more aggressive than I have. Many of those SHO owners put their cars on the dragstrip on a regular basis and abuse them far beyond what I ever would.

    As for satisfaction prior to tuning, the stock ecoboost MKS vastly exceeded my expectations. A 4400 pound car with AWD that would go from 0-60 in around 5 seconds and still deliver high 20s MPG on the highway was superior to what I expected. An aftermarket tune, admittedly with some risk, has exceeded my expectations even further. If I had not been extremely satisfied with the car in stock condition, I would have replaced the car - not spent money on it for a custom tune.

    Thanks for your interest.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The usual fix for this is a reboot of the phone, and if that doesn't fix it, reboot the car. (disconnect and reconnect the battery). I'm betting that will fix it completely.
  • I was given a moronic response like this when I called Ford about something Bluetooth-related (please note that I think the response is moronic; I do not think nvbanker or any specific person at Ford is moronic).

    It's an oxymoron to expect a luxury car owner to ever have to disconnect anything on their car themselves. Such acts are reserved for '83 Plymouth Horizon owners et. al.

    Ford needs to ban such recommendations so they are not repeated in forums lime this. Hope I'm not alone in this opinion.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    The dealer where I purchased my '12 Mustang has a "clinic" every Thursday where they explain the sync and touch systems and make sure your phone works with your car. Not sure if this is just good service or a response to issues with the myfordtouch system. The salesman did mention how difficult it was to explain myfordtouch to an elderly customer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My mistake. After looking more closely at my vehicle, I see it has the seal at front door to contact front fender. It ovbiously does nothing to aid in stopping grime from getting into door cavities. And mine also has seals at side of hood, but they are much shorter than the ones on '13.
    And I stopped by dealer to address the terrible clean up. The man I needed to talk to on some issues was not present. I returned that high priced Snap-on tool left in my vehicle. Since my car was thoroughly cleaned by self only a week earlier, it is rather discouraging that they used probably a cloth wet with dirty water to clean interior. One of the very tell tale places is the rear window. That brown water collected near the defroster strips and left a parallel row of dark spots at each wire. They then also topped off my low coolant with "water" from a dirty jug. Not real low, but at the low cold line when hot.
    Next week I will have to go back to see what they say about other issues, especially the long near straight scratches in top coat on hood and trunk and probably everywhere else. The ones on the hood look like something was worked from the side of the vehicle that had grit on it and either someone with very long arms to move it in such long straight lines or a pole attached.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,320
    A luxury car does not make a luxurious owner. As a light weight non professional mechanic with a '11 Lincoln MKS I look forward to performing basic steps in maintaining this car as I've done with the following:
    95 T Bird; 94 Lincoln Town Car; 82 Town Car; 80 Town Car; 73 Ford Squire; 67 Ford Country Sedan; 66 Mustang GT (still own it) 60 Corvair; 57 Plymouth; 53 Chev Bel Air & 39 Chev Sedan.

    Some of the best race car drivers were mechanics first.

    Did I mention my V8 Sea Ray runabout? ;)
  • I needed a road car that wouldn't wear me out on long trips. I shopped them all since I had an open budget (but I didn't want to get crazy). The MKS delivers more than advertised. Don't confuse issues. This is a "ride" not a sports car. I was surprised at the power and agility that it does have. Decent milage and a back massager. Take the time to learn the MySync. Live with it a while and you'll appreciate all it can do. Don't make false comparisons. This car does exactly what it was designed to do...and does it well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    You Did not say what year or equipment. I agree to a large part. I still want HUD. I suspect the stabilization option is expensive and would have to test it to see what advantages it might have over an Olds Aurora suspension.
  • 2013 MKS. Stabilization package comes with the deal. The Lincoln continuously controlled damping (CCD) continuously adapts to road conditions. It gives you a choice of 3 ride set-ups: Comfort (and it is), Normal (drives like a Taurus to me--and that's good), Sport (solid--like a train on rails). I select "Comfort" for my "D" position on the shifter, and "Sport" for the "S" position. I drive over the mountains on some of my trips and when I drop to the "S" it becomes a whole different car. The steering response is quicker and the transmission stays in lower gears for control (you do have paddle shifters if needed) and the suspension really tightens up.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree it should not have to be done - but if you want to fix it sans an appointment with the dealer and all that inconvenience - reboot the car.

    It ain't just Ford, BTW, my BIL is moronic enough to own a new Malibu that frequently goes into limp mode on trips. His suggestion from Government Motors is to "reboot the car" the same way. Sure enough, it works. Beats calling a tow truck once a month.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,320
    Was Stabilization offered on the 2010, 11, & 12 models or is 2013 its first year?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    edited January 2013
    Is that the "reduced engine power" message? We have a whole discussion dedicated to that problem on GM vehicles. If so, it'd be interesting to hear how to go about re-booting. Edit: I see now that it's disconnect/reconnect battery.

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  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Kirstie, sometimes it might call for that drastic disconnect. The 09 Malibu and electronic toy laden 11 Lacrosse required, "pull over, shut down, restart." Regardless, that is unacceptable. So far, 28K miles, no such issue with my MKS. At least not for major items such as traction control, electric power steering, and the entire navigation system. I did do it one time for bluetooth phone and it worked, but that may have been an anomaly. I noticed the couple of times I had a bluetooth phone connect issue that the phone was only half charged which may have led to a weak signal. And some having phone connect issues should obviously try another phone. Besides bluetooth 2.0, 2.1, 3, & 4, etc. there are classes within each of them. Three I think, and that indicates the distance it will cover. I have a 2.0 device within the class that is good to over 100 feet. So far I have not been able to find any devices of that class for Bluetooth 3 or 4.
    Is there a spec that tells what Bluetooth class and version is used in these vehicles?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I don't know what they did at dealer for my complaint of hard pedal, poor braking, if pedal was reapplied within a couple of seconds, but they noted the rear pads were worn very uneven. One side at 3mm and the other at 6+mm. They said they lubed the caliper slides, but pretty sure it was more than that. And likely involves TSB that was for brake drag on rear for 09 & some 10.
    After the service, I now have to be a bit more cautious and readjust my driving when stopped in traffic. Letting up on the brake, the vehicle starts rolling. I don't want to bump anyone, but also appears to demonstrate brake drag was present. And so far it appears I've gained about 0.8 MPG on local driving. Good braking, good news. Better gas mileage, good news.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Rockauto now has a available a carbon impregnated replacement by ATP. Avoid the NAPA 4068 EnviroSheild, it is treated with Biosheid 75 and emits a lungs and eyes irritant as well as an odor. Look at Biosheild website. The chemical works because it has many tiny spikes on molecule that puncture cell of microbial and very likely human cells as well. I certainly can not think of a reason it would not. It may also cause itching.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Last time in they replaced pads and a caliper and turned rotors on rear at 28,000 miles. I'm a bit unhappy that they turned instead of replaced which means when the rears are up for service it will mean new rotors out of my pocket instead of just turning. The reason was odd wear on rotors, not to the outside edge, an apparently drag since one side was worn more than 3 mm more than opposite side.
    I also have been noting for a long time a bit of instability in suspension effecting tracking unless on glass smooth road. Gave me the impression of someone not professional at using a Pogo stick.
    Now 29,948 miles, when braking I feel the vehicle point left a small amount and return when brake is released. Brake drag? Possibly but it gets more complicated. The Pogo stick control has advanced to the point that it is worrisome for keeping it between the lines traveling with traffic. It gives me the impression of loose joints on arms, bad ball joints, or loose wheel bearings. Really hard to say if one cornered causing all of it or it is all four corners.
    If that is not enough instability, add in that I'm now feeling slight play on input side of rack. (I think this vehicle uses rack and pinion) On older vehicles that had power steering strong enough to hold against road bump input, this likely would not be an issue. With this setup and not perfectly smooth road I have to constantly adjust to keep it between the lines and even get slower than prevailing traffic.
    Has anyone run into these issues, individually or in combination? I'm not sure what is going on, only that it is becoming very disconcerting.

    Recap: Car takes a slightly left heading when brake applied and returns when brake released. Brakes or bearings or suspension?
    Car feels unstable as a small bump catches one tire and seems to pass that energy to the other corners in an unvertical fashion. Bushings, joints, or what?
    Steering input has slight play allowing or adding to wandering on the road. Rack and pinion (too much play between rack and pinion gears), play in U-joints on steering shaft, or play in steering column shaft?
    Someone please tell me they did not use that same crappy shaft tensioner they used on all the Taurus except first generation. Those vehicles had more holding by the power steering than this one so if they used the same junk it is little wonder it is failing by 30,000 miles. Those Taurus would fail for me around 60,000 miles. That is three of them. The first generation used spring steel clips and was still good at 150,000 miles. The rack and tie-rod ends had failed on it. All of the earlier generations of Taurus used the same design stabilizer bar links on front. And they all would fail early because of the poor quality of rubber boots. The boots would desintegrate allowing dirt and moisture in wearing the joints out.

    Any input will be helpful.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    That pull to the left when you apply the brake. Does the temp make a difference? My 2012 Mustang does this, especially when I first drive the car and it's cold out, but it doesn't feel like the usual brake pull, I think it might be the electric power steering. My car only has 6000 miles. I talked to a co-worker who has a 2013 Escape, he has a similar issue.
    It's not enough of a bother that I have gone back to the dealer, it seems much better now that the weather's warmer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Temp not connected to my issue.
    Although temp changes can affect some issues, example, ice forming adding unbalanced weight, a grease or lubricant that has been applied unequally from wheel to wheel and is stiffer when colder. Coefficient of expansion might cause some rare situations especially where there is a difference of material at a connection point or nexis. Example, ABCM, the electro-mechanical portion. If engineering did not properly design for temperature extremes including allowable tolerances of machining or fit, the housing being of one material, bored for pistons that actually controll the fluid/pressure to individual calipers, one of the pistons might be at the maximum allowable design tolerance and it binds when the temperature reaches a certain point. That would give uneven brake apply.
    One thing for sure, with the addition of ABCM, that is anti-lock, traction control portion, stability, the brake system has become a lot more complex. Just because you feel a pull to the left when braking, you can no longer assume it is the caliper on the right not applying, but possibly a malfunction in the ABCM or its control module or a sensor.
    Is it the same on all road surfaces? Make sure tire pressure is even, at least within 1/2 PSI of each other. Has a RFB, road force balance been done. They are really good at eliminating tire issues. But just rotating tires, because of existant wear patterns, can alter how the vehicle feels, even if there is not eye-ball detectable difference. If the problem moves after rotation, then it is likely tire/wheel related.
    What temps? Why do you think EPS?
    As with mine, if you are rolling straight and stays straight when releasing steering wheel, however applying brake veers toward oncoming traffic, it is braking related. But bad/loose part in suspension, a bad wheel bearing, could be shifting under the force of braking resulting in the veering to a side. Still, you say temp related so I'd chase that to the end.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Update. Talked to Lincon, they say I can take to any Ford Lincoln. Checked a couple of alternative dealers and decided to pass on local ford since they also use rent a wreck if you car stays and use a third party mop and bucket for clean up. Went to next closest Ford Lincoln. Mechanic said he did not see problem. Test drove with service writer, he did not see, but offered his boss. Boss said issue was with road surface and run-around. If it was the road, then we needed to drive on a different road. He mentioned something about road crown and felt it was going no where I left. But a couple of miles down the road I tried braking a few times in right and left lane, high point being to left and more slope in right lane. Against what I would have thought, the veer to the left was worse in the right lane. Say What? I turned around. Now out to lunch, then more run-around, and talk to his boss who happens to be at lunch. I wait. Surprise, at that time a Lincoln rep is there, we ride, he drives, yes there is a problem. Great, at least an admission. But he insists not brakes and wants align check. OK, it is out a bit, tow on front and rear, creating a slight angle. So aligned, my pocket, and problem still exists. The align has reduced the poor straight line control on bump, four-corner bouncing, and the bad effect of steering input play since it is likely applying less pressures against the steering dampening. And tires will need to settle to new settings.
    It looks like they only touched toe settings. Camber and caster settings read the same, within tolerances, but definitely not centered on ranges.
    Waiting on call back from Lincoln rep since they said they'd pass message, but I won't bet on it. (He bet align would take care of problem)
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