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Lincoln MKS

19092949596

Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The V8 was from Jag. The V6 was a Ford duratec.

    Ah, no kidding? Didn't know that (obviously). Well, it was a good engine, and performed really well in the LS. Still no relation to the 3.7 in the MKS though, correct?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,701
    No, the 3.7L is a new engine. The Ford version of the AJ V8 was 3.9L while Jag started with a 4.0 (longer stroke). Jag eventually went to a 4.2 plus a supercharger.

    The 3.0L V6 in the LS was the first one with variable cam timing. The new 3.5L and 3.7L engines are all new AFAIK.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I had an 02 Thunderbird with that 3.9L engine, which later got a HP bump, I understand, but mine wasn't bad at all. Very smooth, good power. I thought it was the perfect engine for the bird. Had no trouble, but only drove the car to 17,000 miles and sold it last year. I miss it. Desperate times.....
  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    Thanks for the feedback. All good points and the brakes seems to be the biggest issue...

    I've had my share of "Lockouts" with the LS and that set-up. I learned very early in the game with it to take the keys and hit the unlock prior to leaving the car - if you were just pumping gas or whatever. Another reason I wished the 2000 had the keypad on the door, but make do. I'm sure the MKS lock/unlock issue isn't too big of a deal, either.

    Someone else mentioned that the price should be even lower and I'm surprised. They have one of the 'compare' websites that compares comparable models and this particular car is the lowest in price of all similar models for sale in the area - by several thousand, actually.

    I also would think at 78K miles - most of the warranty items would be done. Probably just drivetrain and exhaust are still covered, maybe?

    Thanks again.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    I was suffering from brain fade when I said it was still under warranty. I was thinking age and not mileage. Bumper to bumper is 50,000 and powertrain is 70,000 if I recall correctly.

    In any case, you make a good point that any of the known issues should have been fixed by now. The brakes, door locks and rear shelf rattle were typically reported by owners within 15,000 miles or so. I don't know anything about the pricing but I certainly would not be concerned about the car as long as it has not been abused and has been maintained properly.
  • rsblaskirsblaski Posts: 68
    :confuse: I have a 2011 MKS fwd. Could someone let me know if the transmission is supposed to downshift when going down a steep grade while the cc is engaged?
    My previous 2009 MKS (which had standard cc) did this, but the 2011 only uses the brakes to maintain the speed the cc is set at.
    I am concerned that only using the brakes to control speed will cause overheating and possible rotor warp.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Below is what the owner's manual says - doesn't sound it downshifts automatically. I was not aware that CC or ACC would ever initiate a downshift unless the speed drops to where the transmission would downshift anyway. With mine, it will automatically downshift from 6th to 5th if I drop under 50MPH - about 1000 RPM. It does that whether the CC is on or not.

    Hilly condition usage
    It is recommended that the driver select a lower gear position when ACC
    is active in situations such as prolonged downhill driving on steep grades
    (i.e., driving in mountainous areas). In these situations, additional engine
    braking is needed to reduce the load on the vehicle’s regular brake
    system to prevent them from overheating. For more information,
    reference Automatic transmission operation in the Driving chapter.
    Note: If ACC is applying brakes for an extended period of time, an
    audible alarm will sound, the head’s up display will flash and ACC will
    shut down. This is to allow the brakes to cool down. When the brakes
    have cooled down, the ACC will again function normally.
  • rsblaskirsblaski Posts: 68
    Bruce,
    Thanks a lot!
    The reason I asked the question in the first place was because the 2009 MKS I traded for the 2011 DID, in fact, downshift when the (conventional) cc was engaged. I thought that this feature, which I was really impressed with, would have carried over to newer models. Perhaps it's something that may still be a part of conventional cc but not acc?
  • Asking price through dealer is 26k, it has 43k miles on it. The pull for me is the AWD (I am a daily skiier, and want to get to the mountain) and really do not want another SUV! I love the bling of the Lincoln, and became a Ford lover with my '07 Edge. That said, the '07 Edge, as much as I loved it, is a gas hog. I traded it for a Camry, and the Camry has got to be the nmost uncomfortable vehicle I have EVER driven! I guess I am a luxury car girl at heart, LOL.

    Anyway, can anyone tell me what to look out for. The vehicle available to me is that gorgeous black, I don't think I have seen paint like this before (I know, where the heck have I been, right???) .....

    My last luxury wheels were Cadillac, and CTS IS a consideration. Someone point me in the right direction. I have the weekend to make this decision, the dealer has let me use the car!
  • datagendatagen Posts: 107
    I had a 2009 MKS (brand new) and it was a lemon. From the paint to the transmission, worst car I ever had. I would not recommend the 2009's maybe the 10's 11's, but not the 09's. I understand your AWD requirements and for that it was great. If you are still bent on it, I recommend for a few bucks more, an independent inspection of the vehicle.

    I understand your desire for luxury so I took a little bit of the middle road. I have a 2010 MKZ AWD and it has just about all the luxury as the MKS, but it is a little smaller and way more agile. I also have a 2011 Sonata and even though both vehicles have about the same features, the Z rides smoother. I will say with that turbo, the Sonata can haul with great gas mileage.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Purchased yesterday and happy so far.
    18,500 miles and exceptionally clean. It was probably a lease or corporate Ford vehicle sold only to qualified Ford dealers. It was likely at Ft. Lauderdale and I got it in NC.
    Not Ecoboost - I could not justify the extra money for it since AWD would very seldom benefit me and the gas mileage difference would not certainly.
    Glass top - Didn't want it and consequently had to give up maybe one option, BLISS, which is included in that package and maybe not available otherwise.
    Automatic cruise control - I would not have minded having it but hard to find on vehicles otherwise configured the way I wanted.
    Previous vehicle - 2011 Lacrosse CXS, all factory options except glass top and rear DVD screens. I had to special order to escape the glass top.
    Much of my comparison will be based on it and other vehicles over the years.

    The MKS is not a town car, but pretty nice.
    It does not ride like it, but maybe as near as you can get in a smaller vehicle. Far better than the Lacrosse in any model.
    Items I will miss are GM's blind spot alert, when it was working. The HUD with its easy to read display. And something that may only be GM called Hyperstrut. Only the top model of the Lacrosse had it and I could easily see the effect it had on steering/handling, in lesser models, on the front end. And feel certain the MKS would benefit from it. The triple door seals may have contributed to a bit less wind noise.
    And thankfully I no longer have GoodYear tires.
    The Lacrosse in Red Jewel Tint was definitely a head turner. And its many LED's for rear lighting made it distinctive at night. I suspect this white one won't catch as many eyes but then my real hope is that things actually work and don't break.
    I don't like the lumbar supports in either compared to the two bag support system. And when it comes to cooled seats, something that is noted among professional reviewers, they are not as comfortable as other seats, but the MKS is better than GM I' ve compared, including Cadillac.
    The seat memory system in the MKS is superior because it actually works.
    I also liked never having to take the key out of your pocket on the GM system, but may be able to adapt by using the door keypad and lock from inside vehicle.
    The MKS is a little lighter so it being 10 less HP is no factor unless you think being a bit shy of 300HP is a flaw. GM did increase power by 50HP this year and Ford has the ecoboost if you really need power or want it.
    Having only driven 300 miles I only have a rough approximation of gas mileage. About the first hundred were road with speed limits of 60MPH or less and several traffic lights. The guage was showing an average very close to 30 MPG decreasing to about 28.5 as speed increased. Once on the interstate I reset and cruising around 70 MPH it was showing about 25.5MPG on regular grade.
    I've obviously got a lot to learn yet.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Just acquired 2010 MKS and I have not been able to locate definitive information on the USB port. Maybe one of you can tell me what you've learned.
    It mentions thumb drives in owners manual, but not specifically what format it accepts music in. Or even if the thumb drive needs to be formatted a particular way.
    My experience was with 2011 Lacrosse and though it was supposed to accept several formats, WMA, MP3, M4A, and others, it was very problematic and only seemed to work with MP3 on such drives. It did not work at all on external HDD even though manual claimed it did. I now suspect owners also called it a jukebox sometimes because of the ford system.

    Has anyone had success using a portable HDD? If so, how was it formatted and what codec was used for the music? Which formats will it read the tags from? Is it capable of reading the lyrics from the tag?
    It sounds like an iPod will be not problem, except way too small for my jukebox collection(~400GB). What is the largest storage medium or device anyone has gotten to work?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,701
    www.syncmyride.com

    Any self powered usb drive can be used as long as it's formatted FAT32. Pretty sure mp3 and mp4a both work - not sure about the rest. If you have iTunes look for a free pc app called itunes export - works like a charm and maintains your playlists.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks. I found some of the info concerning type of files. The list is MP3, WMA, WAV, & AAC.
    It sounds like recording a disc to the HDD will be an automatic conversion to MP3 since the HDD is rated by time and number of tracks. My bet is that it will be using a poorer quality bit rate to pile such a large number on 10GB.
    I will try recording a CD to it and see if it gives an indication by how much room it used and whether it recorded in native CDA format or converted to MP3. Often very high quality MP3 are OK, 192Kb/sec. Sometimes distortion will show up even at those rates, depending upon which MP3 CODEC is used.
    Again, no indication as to what WMA is usuable. There is a lossless version but no indication if it works with the built in CODEC. And WMA is rather proprietary, thankyou MS.
    Wave, can't go wrong with quality, but it is the largest file.
    I shall have to test concerning AAC (m4a), which is supposed to be much better than MP3.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Update. I plugged the USB HDD that would not play at all in the Lacrosse and it happily started playing in my MKS. It took some time to complete indexing with a message that the index was full. Also it showed a message, "media not recognizable" several times then happily moved to next song.
    I will have to copy a song of each format to a media to see which it will not recognize.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Has this been an issue at all?
    I find there is a slight amount of slack at the steering wheel and it is a nuisance, especially on surfaces that induce wandering.
    I'm also thinking I need to have alignment checked because of how it handles on rain grooved concrete. At less than posted speed it shakes from side to side as I try to keep it straight.
  • Mine has the electric power steering that compensates for road irregularities so it is different than yours. However, what you describe could be caused by uneven tire wear. An alignment and tire inspection/rotation would be a good idea. Also, make sure the tire pressures are correct in all 4 tires. In my research and various forum participation, I have never heard anyone else mention this problem so it does not sound like a known issue.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for the reply. Full electric PS? Or is it some sort of boost system? Gm uses a system called Magna-Steer on some vehicles where it adds more resistance to movement of the steering the faster you go. They also have full EPS, as in the 09 Malibu which about once every thousand miles it would suddenly jerk to the right almost sending me off the road multiple times. They were undable to fix.
    As to tire pressure, I watch it like a hawk because I learned 40 years ago that as little as one PSI could effect the handling greatly on some vehicles. The electronics not showing me the pressure of each tire is a bit annoying. With low profile tires the issue is likely amplified. Mine is a 2010 with 3.7L. Having just bought it, I assumed all maintenance had been done recently, but having put about 4000 miles on it the oil percentage is down to 10%.
    The other day I also noticed that the PS fluid is significantly below the minimum line, like twice the distance between minimum and maximum. I have not spotted a leak. Also I was a bit alarmed when I checked the oil during a trip. About 400 miles after buying and in cold weather I did not check closely until I arrived at destination since it surely was not low and it was also a weekend. It appeared to be a quart over full. Now at home, it seems to be at proper level, but I surely will watch closely for usage.
    I need to call the dealer tomorrow concerning rust on the rotors. I noticed that it appeared to be more than the overnight rust and questioned the saleman about it. He assured me it was only surface rust, not the pitting I thought it was. Now, nearly 4000 miles later, I see a strong discoloring on all rotors, like blueing from overheat or possibly carbon from the pads being deposited in the pitting. The rear have nearly worn the major rust from the surface with about 1/4" still heavily rusted at the outer edge. On the front it is about 1/2" and wonder how much braking is being lost. Does anyone else show these wide rusted areas at the outer edge of the braking surface?
  • MKSs with ecoboost have electric power steering with drift-pull compensation. I doubt that it would have any effect on grooved highways but it is effective on crowned roads or when there is a strong cross wind. The car tracks straight without the driver needing to keep pressure on the steering wheel.

    Regarding rust on the rotors, the outer 1/4 inch of the rotor will likely have some rust. On mine, the area of rust is the same on the front as on the back. Mine has had the TSB performed that replaces the caliper brackets, pads and rotors. I don't recall how wide the rust strip was on the old rotors. If you have any brake noise at all, your dealer might do the TSB for you. It involves different caliper brackets that slightly reposition how the pads contact the rotors.

    I think that bluish color on the rotors is pretty normal and not a sign of overheating. Seems I read somewhere that it is due to the composition of the rotor material. Mine have a bluish tint - and have had since new.

    By the way, the oil monitor only measures mileage or time - it has nothing to do with the "life" of the oil. You can set the oil monitor through the message center to various parameters.
  • CORRECTION:
    I just examined my rotors more carefully and discovered that there is zero rust at the outside edge on the front - the pads are contacting all the way to the edge. On the inside closer to the hub, there is about 1/8 inch that the pads do not contact. On the rear, there is approximately 1/8 inch on the outside edge and 1/4 inch on the inside where there is no pad contact.

    I am pretty sure with the original rotors, the pads on the front did not make contact all the way to the outside edge and it left a rust ring out there. I think the new caliper brackets/pads changed the contact area. It would be nice if your dealer would apply that TSB to yours. It improved the pedal feel on mine and eliminated the brake noise that I was experiencing. I had about 23,000 miles on mine when I had it done.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Are you saying the ecoboost has a full electric power steering system?
    I guess I don't understand the OLM on this machine. As far as I know, there is only a reset.
    Thanks for the update on the brakes. If the vehicle sits for a couple of days, when I start and back out they make a terrible sound, similar to metal on metal grinding.
    If I can get these things taken care of, especially the play at wheel, I'll be a very happy person.
    Is there any place that I can find out about these differences between ecoboost and standard. I had looked at a lot of window stickers and never noticed a mention of EPS.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    http://media.ford.com/

    The link above contains lots of information. You can find product sheets for various years and good descriptions of technologies.

    Below is a quick excerpt on the EPS. Ford calls it EPAS - electric power assisted steering. In 2010, EPAS was only on ecoboost models. It is also what enables the self-parking technology.

    Working in conjunction with EPAS, Pull-Drift Compensation is a software-based technology that helps drivers offset vehicle pulling or drifting that can occur in steady crosswinds or on uneven roads. Pull-Drift Compensation uses sensors to constantly measure the steering input applied by the driver to help maintain the vehicle’s path; it automatically compensates for slight steering input changes caused by environmental factors such as road crowning or steady crosswinds.

    Oil life monitor from the owners manual:

    Note: To change oil life 100% miles value from 7,500 miles (12,000 km)
    or 12 months to another value, proceed to Step 3.
    3. Once “OIL LIFE SET TO XXX%” is displayed, release and press
    RESET to change the Oil Life Start Value. Each release and press will
    reduce the value by 10%.
    Note: Oil life start value of 100% equals 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or
    12 months. For example, setting oil life start value to 60% sets the oil
    life start value to 4,500 miles (7,200 km) and 219 days.
  • sjkflysjkfly Posts: 2
    I'm just now looking at AWD 09 MKSs w/under 30kmiles in the $24-25,000 range. They seem a good value, pretty stylish and loaded w/useful gadgets (all w/nav, backup camera, Sirius, Sync, etc.). The one I just drove w/the 20" wheels (a lot btr kg than the std wheels on 09s, changed in '10). Handling was pretty gd on the exit ramps, but comments about the high mass and seating (like a crossover) are accurate, as are slightly more engine noise than I had hoped for. I am getting to the downshift in cc on steep downgrades.
    I am replacing my loved 02 Chrysler FWD 300M w/139k and running like a top (w/$1000 of maint/yr for system age failures). (Don't like the current crop of boxy Chryslers, no FWD avail in 300s). This car for the first time also downshifted at speed on a vy steep downgrade in an attempt to control rising speed; it was a little startling but I just killed the cc and gently trailed the brakes--don't worry abt overheating unless you are bent on running down long steep downhills at high speed; regretfully, slow down a little. In other words, all not-extremely modern cars will likely do the same thing. BTW, cars like the MKS and my Chry are more luxury oriented and are IMHO somewhat underbraked (XC CTS-V, a true track animal). I drove race cars for several years (dim past) and got a lot of that out of my system w/only a few minor disasters.
    The old Chrysler has better fwd (longer) thigh support than the MKS, but CTSs & Buicks I tried were worse, as was the 09 Lexus ES350 I bought and actually turned back in after 3 days. I am 6'2". The cooled GM seatbacks incl Caddy were stiff as a park bench too--send these designers home! The best fwd thigh support? The Maxima SVs w/a pull-fwd pad, but I wanna buy /drive American; however I almost caved the other day. PS: optioned-up Maxima SVs of same year cost $4-5000 more than non-Ecoboost Lincolns. Still love my low and sleek Chrysler 300M--wish the Germans didn't ditch them in '05.
  • sjkflysjkfly Posts: 2
    Tx to both brucelinc & you for informative insights, as I am on the verge of buying an 09 MKS AWD w/everything (not Ecoboost, quite a bit pricier and not out til '10). But it has 20" wheels w/Michelins which rode smoothly up to 80 mph on the test drive. Anyway, I am curious about the wandering fluid levels as observed when checking (vs. if they are real or not). Being a geezer driving since '57 at 16, I am a little compulsive abt chkg fluid levels prior to and after long trips, etc, The underhood area is pretty crowded even compared to my well-baffled 02 Chry 300M, so not sure where to chk levels yet. I hear there is no dipstick for the tranny. We all assume that internal fluids (NOT coolant) are a little low if checked immed after driving, esp if not warmed up so the gooey stuff is still slowly flowing downward to its sump, even the PS. I wd like to know if there is some special quirk in these MKSs where apparant fluid levels wander, since that defeats the objective of discovering a sudden leak, or worse. (I still compulsively carry a qt of 10W-30 in the trunk and a 1/2 gal of water.)
    Another unrelated issue that some have commented upon is the possible damage from jumpstarting what with all the black boxes and geek software. My 02 Chry 300M has remoted + and - terminals just for this purpose, and I have used them (such as when my rear seat daughter left reading lights on that DO NOT go off w/the rest of the automatic system). I wd like to be able to jumpstart w/confidence if needed and if you have some special guidelines about sequence, settings, or whatever, that wd be much appreciated. Thanks!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Historic automobile safety changes are something. I remember a classmate that owned a 52 Chevy. That was pre-rollover concerns and that is exactly what he'd do. He gave quite a few a thrill ride by heading into a "T" intersection and throw it into a sideways skid with roll. He ususally ended up on the top. He'd get out and maybe with the help of some witnesses roll it back on all four. That was a big safety change in the early 60's, lowering the center of gravity. Some were getting killed because they'd get thrown out and killed when their own vehicle rolled over them. Also pre seatbelts.
    So, because of more modern raising of vehicles, we had to go back to the crush proof tops of those old cars.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The current thinking, AFAIK, when jumping or connecting battery, is to connect the positive terminal first and disconnect it last. (It has to do with the direction electrons flow)
    Also it would be a good idea to turn off everything electronic possible, but with modern cars it is rather impossible to do because you have to have the ignition power on before you can change the state of say the radio or navigation system. If you are lucky, you might have enough residual power to do that but not crank.
    My wife drives a crossover, and its seating is much higher than the '10 MKS. Making the tops more crushproof likely added some weight to the upper portion, but smaller glass should have lightened the same area.
    As to hanging curves, I don't do it, or try not to. You just never know what you might encounter so I observe the posted speed.
    The '10 3.7 FWD MKS has probably the floatiest ride I've been in for a long time. Having it on something smaller than the town car likely makes it more noticeable. But that seems to be the way Lincoln has come up with a less bone jarring ride. Bone and muscle. After a hundred miles or so, my body really appreciates that.
    I'm comparing mostly to an '11 Lacrosse CXS with touring pack. Before the play in the steering developed, it was quite precise and tight on steering. As part of that, possibly the GY low profile tires which are extremely noisy and hard, the front suspension seemed a bit stiff. This vehicle had full time electronic suspension with touring and sport mode.
    I wish I'd known the Ecoboost has that, something I'd like to compare.
    The rear on that vehicle would get sway when one rear tire contacted road imperfection. I did not like that, but it could be stopped by going to sport mode which definitely stiffened the rear enough that it stopped it. But added more bone jarring.
    After a three hour ride, I'd almost need help getting out. It was billed as luxury, but it fell short, from what I'd call base areas. The seats and steering wheel linkage. The seats were lacking proper support especially for the hardness of them. And that you could feel what was under the little padding they had. Those two areas, seat and wheel, transmitted way to much of the road to the body resulting in aches, pains, stiffness, and fatigue.
    I would like a bit more of that precise steering in my MKS, but not at the cost of comfort. Both have the issue of the headrests, as most new vehicles do, beating me on the back of my head causing neck pain. On that other I turned the headrests around. One person came up with a method to straighten the posts a little which is something I'm considering.
    I had so many problems with that Buick, I'm not sure that the full time electronic suspension was actually working as intended. I did get a service light for it and because of timing pressure on the dealer I'm not certain that they maybe just shut that part of system down. (They said they just reset it - two hours)

    Thanks for the headsup on fluid levels. I shall have to double check method for power steering fluid. It is below the minimum level on resovoir.
    So far, I have had no immediate need for service, TY Lincoln, and those with helpful info Thank You as well.
    Hope your purchase goes well.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    I have had no variation in fluid levels - other than windshield washer fluid. Once you look around under the hood, everything is marked pretty well and the areas to check have a yellow marking. Yes, there is a transmission dipstick - next to the air filter box.

    As for the head restraints, I have found that simply raising them about an inch makes them fine for me. The way they are tapered, raising them up means your head is on the lower part of the restraint and not as close. Some folks find that reclining the seat a bit is helpful.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited March 2012
    I know of no fluid fluctuations of any special nature. This transmission has a dipstick. The famous no dipstick Ford tranny was the RWD 5 & 6 speed. However, that's no issue really. If it gets low, you'll know it, because it will slip when going around a corner. I would still have them serviced every 30,000 miles even though it's not required.

    I've jumped a lot of Fords, new and old, never blown out so much as a fuse. Just be careful, connect & disconnect the positive terminal last, you'll be fine. Oh, and don't cross them.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The headrest situation seems to be industry wide and got very bad after NHTSA released a mandate. The original mandate declared all makers would follow the same design, even those with systems that were proven to work, especially automatic systems.
    It seems they were trying to used injury data from those who are essentially laying down while driving. Those that pier through the steering wheel and could only be seen with an extra look.
    Certainly that data showed much higher and worse injuries, but it should never have been used because they were ignoring the instructions for seat positioning. (you can lead a horse to drink, but to get him to, you may have to kick him in the nads)
    Being inclined leads to a greater risk of having your heart ripped loose and going toward your abdomen, deadly.
    Good posture is essential for good control and comfort. Especially if you already have spinal issues.
    That NHTSA decree is so flawed that the government should pay for retrofitting a fix.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I see no mention of cabin air filter except that there is one listed in parts for 2010 MKS.
    Anyone know for sure and how to check or replace?
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