Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Lincoln MKS

19091929395

Comments

  • Why did you re-tune the car when with the added cost of retuning you would have been able to purchase a BMW 5 series vehicle? You also would have a vehicle that holds it resale very well. Here after 3 yrs, the BMW has about 72 % of its purchase price. The after market re-tuning on your Lincoln does nothing to add to the resale value of your car. Also how does this re-tuning affect the vehicle's warranty?

    How happy could you be if you had to after market re-tune the vehicle? I would have done some research on the vehicle before buying to determine if the car's road manners where on par with my performance expectations.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 814
    Hmmm....unitedkingdom, how can I say this politely? I will put it this way: I do not give a rat's [non-permissible content removed] about BMWs or resale value.

    I only have a mild interest in warranties but I am fully aware that if my modification causes a mechanical problem, it is MY problem. That is a chance I am willing to take after doing considerable research, visiting with the tuner and chatting with hundreds of SHO owners who have done tuning much more aggressive than I have. Many of those SHO owners put their cars on the dragstrip on a regular basis and abuse them far beyond what I ever would.

    As for satisfaction prior to tuning, the stock ecoboost MKS vastly exceeded my expectations. A 4400 pound car with AWD that would go from 0-60 in around 5 seconds and still deliver high 20s MPG on the highway was superior to what I expected. An aftermarket tune, admittedly with some risk, has exceeded my expectations even further. If I had not been extremely satisfied with the car in stock condition, I would have replaced the car - not spent money on it for a custom tune.

    Thanks for your interest.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The usual fix for this is a reboot of the phone, and if that doesn't fix it, reboot the car. (disconnect and reconnect the battery). I'm betting that will fix it completely.
  • I was given a moronic response like this when I called Ford about something Bluetooth-related (please note that I think the response is moronic; I do not think nvbanker or any specific person at Ford is moronic).

    It's an oxymoron to expect a luxury car owner to ever have to disconnect anything on their car themselves. Such acts are reserved for '83 Plymouth Horizon owners et. al.

    Ford needs to ban such recommendations so they are not repeated in forums lime this. Hope I'm not alone in this opinion.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    The dealer where I purchased my '12 Mustang has a "clinic" every Thursday where they explain the sync and touch systems and make sure your phone works with your car. Not sure if this is just good service or a response to issues with the myfordtouch system. The salesman did mention how difficult it was to explain myfordtouch to an elderly customer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My mistake. After looking more closely at my vehicle, I see it has the seal at front door to contact front fender. It ovbiously does nothing to aid in stopping grime from getting into door cavities. And mine also has seals at side of hood, but they are much shorter than the ones on '13.
    And I stopped by dealer to address the terrible clean up. The man I needed to talk to on some issues was not present. I returned that high priced Snap-on tool left in my vehicle. Since my car was thoroughly cleaned by self only a week earlier, it is rather discouraging that they used probably a cloth wet with dirty water to clean interior. One of the very tell tale places is the rear window. That brown water collected near the defroster strips and left a parallel row of dark spots at each wire. They then also topped off my low coolant with "water" from a dirty jug. Not real low, but at the low cold line when hot.
    Next week I will have to go back to see what they say about other issues, especially the long near straight scratches in top coat on hood and trunk and probably everywhere else. The ones on the hood look like something was worked from the side of the vehicle that had grit on it and either someone with very long arms to move it in such long straight lines or a pole attached.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,327
    A luxury car does not make a luxurious owner. As a light weight non professional mechanic with a '11 Lincoln MKS I look forward to performing basic steps in maintaining this car as I've done with the following:
    95 T Bird; 94 Lincoln Town Car; 82 Town Car; 80 Town Car; 73 Ford Squire; 67 Ford Country Sedan; 66 Mustang GT (still own it) 60 Corvair; 57 Plymouth; 53 Chev Bel Air & 39 Chev Sedan.

    Some of the best race car drivers were mechanics first.

    Did I mention my V8 Sea Ray runabout? ;)
  • I needed a road car that wouldn't wear me out on long trips. I shopped them all since I had an open budget (but I didn't want to get crazy). The MKS delivers more than advertised. Don't confuse issues. This is a "ride" not a sports car. I was surprised at the power and agility that it does have. Decent milage and a back massager. Take the time to learn the MySync. Live with it a while and you'll appreciate all it can do. Don't make false comparisons. This car does exactly what it was designed to do...and does it well.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    You Did not say what year or equipment. I agree to a large part. I still want HUD. I suspect the stabilization option is expensive and would have to test it to see what advantages it might have over an Olds Aurora suspension.
  • 2013 MKS. Stabilization package comes with the deal. The Lincoln continuously controlled damping (CCD) continuously adapts to road conditions. It gives you a choice of 3 ride set-ups: Comfort (and it is), Normal (drives like a Taurus to me--and that's good), Sport (solid--like a train on rails). I select "Comfort" for my "D" position on the shifter, and "Sport" for the "S" position. I drive over the mountains on some of my trips and when I drop to the "S" it becomes a whole different car. The steering response is quicker and the transmission stays in lower gears for control (you do have paddle shifters if needed) and the suspension really tightens up.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree it should not have to be done - but if you want to fix it sans an appointment with the dealer and all that inconvenience - reboot the car.

    It ain't just Ford, BTW, my BIL is moronic enough to own a new Malibu that frequently goes into limp mode on trips. His suggestion from Government Motors is to "reboot the car" the same way. Sure enough, it works. Beats calling a tow truck once a month.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,327
    Was Stabilization offered on the 2010, 11, & 12 models or is 2013 its first year?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,876
    edited January 2013
    Is that the "reduced engine power" message? We have a whole discussion dedicated to that problem on GM vehicles. If so, it'd be interesting to hear how to go about re-booting. Edit: I see now that it's disconnect/reconnect battery.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Kirstie, sometimes it might call for that drastic disconnect. The 09 Malibu and electronic toy laden 11 Lacrosse required, "pull over, shut down, restart." Regardless, that is unacceptable. So far, 28K miles, no such issue with my MKS. At least not for major items such as traction control, electric power steering, and the entire navigation system. I did do it one time for bluetooth phone and it worked, but that may have been an anomaly. I noticed the couple of times I had a bluetooth phone connect issue that the phone was only half charged which may have led to a weak signal. And some having phone connect issues should obviously try another phone. Besides bluetooth 2.0, 2.1, 3, & 4, etc. there are classes within each of them. Three I think, and that indicates the distance it will cover. I have a 2.0 device within the class that is good to over 100 feet. So far I have not been able to find any devices of that class for Bluetooth 3 or 4.
    Is there a spec that tells what Bluetooth class and version is used in these vehicles?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I don't know what they did at dealer for my complaint of hard pedal, poor braking, if pedal was reapplied within a couple of seconds, but they noted the rear pads were worn very uneven. One side at 3mm and the other at 6+mm. They said they lubed the caliper slides, but pretty sure it was more than that. And likely involves TSB that was for brake drag on rear for 09 & some 10.
    After the service, I now have to be a bit more cautious and readjust my driving when stopped in traffic. Letting up on the brake, the vehicle starts rolling. I don't want to bump anyone, but also appears to demonstrate brake drag was present. And so far it appears I've gained about 0.8 MPG on local driving. Good braking, good news. Better gas mileage, good news.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Rockauto now has a available a carbon impregnated replacement by ATP. Avoid the NAPA 4068 EnviroSheild, it is treated with Biosheid 75 and emits a lungs and eyes irritant as well as an odor. Look at Biosheild website. The chemical works because it has many tiny spikes on molecule that puncture cell of microbial and very likely human cells as well. I certainly can not think of a reason it would not. It may also cause itching.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Last time in they replaced pads and a caliper and turned rotors on rear at 28,000 miles. I'm a bit unhappy that they turned instead of replaced which means when the rears are up for service it will mean new rotors out of my pocket instead of just turning. The reason was odd wear on rotors, not to the outside edge, an apparently drag since one side was worn more than 3 mm more than opposite side.
    I also have been noting for a long time a bit of instability in suspension effecting tracking unless on glass smooth road. Gave me the impression of someone not professional at using a Pogo stick.
    Now 29,948 miles, when braking I feel the vehicle point left a small amount and return when brake is released. Brake drag? Possibly but it gets more complicated. The Pogo stick control has advanced to the point that it is worrisome for keeping it between the lines traveling with traffic. It gives me the impression of loose joints on arms, bad ball joints, or loose wheel bearings. Really hard to say if one cornered causing all of it or it is all four corners.
    If that is not enough instability, add in that I'm now feeling slight play on input side of rack. (I think this vehicle uses rack and pinion) On older vehicles that had power steering strong enough to hold against road bump input, this likely would not be an issue. With this setup and not perfectly smooth road I have to constantly adjust to keep it between the lines and even get slower than prevailing traffic.
    Has anyone run into these issues, individually or in combination? I'm not sure what is going on, only that it is becoming very disconcerting.

    Recap: Car takes a slightly left heading when brake applied and returns when brake released. Brakes or bearings or suspension?
    Car feels unstable as a small bump catches one tire and seems to pass that energy to the other corners in an unvertical fashion. Bushings, joints, or what?
    Steering input has slight play allowing or adding to wandering on the road. Rack and pinion (too much play between rack and pinion gears), play in U-joints on steering shaft, or play in steering column shaft?
    Someone please tell me they did not use that same crappy shaft tensioner they used on all the Taurus except first generation. Those vehicles had more holding by the power steering than this one so if they used the same junk it is little wonder it is failing by 30,000 miles. Those Taurus would fail for me around 60,000 miles. That is three of them. The first generation used spring steel clips and was still good at 150,000 miles. The rack and tie-rod ends had failed on it. All of the earlier generations of Taurus used the same design stabilizer bar links on front. And they all would fail early because of the poor quality of rubber boots. The boots would desintegrate allowing dirt and moisture in wearing the joints out.

    Any input will be helpful.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    That pull to the left when you apply the brake. Does the temp make a difference? My 2012 Mustang does this, especially when I first drive the car and it's cold out, but it doesn't feel like the usual brake pull, I think it might be the electric power steering. My car only has 6000 miles. I talked to a co-worker who has a 2013 Escape, he has a similar issue.
    It's not enough of a bother that I have gone back to the dealer, it seems much better now that the weather's warmer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Temp not connected to my issue.
    Although temp changes can affect some issues, example, ice forming adding unbalanced weight, a grease or lubricant that has been applied unequally from wheel to wheel and is stiffer when colder. Coefficient of expansion might cause some rare situations especially where there is a difference of material at a connection point or nexis. Example, ABCM, the electro-mechanical portion. If engineering did not properly design for temperature extremes including allowable tolerances of machining or fit, the housing being of one material, bored for pistons that actually controll the fluid/pressure to individual calipers, one of the pistons might be at the maximum allowable design tolerance and it binds when the temperature reaches a certain point. That would give uneven brake apply.
    One thing for sure, with the addition of ABCM, that is anti-lock, traction control portion, stability, the brake system has become a lot more complex. Just because you feel a pull to the left when braking, you can no longer assume it is the caliper on the right not applying, but possibly a malfunction in the ABCM or its control module or a sensor.
    Is it the same on all road surfaces? Make sure tire pressure is even, at least within 1/2 PSI of each other. Has a RFB, road force balance been done. They are really good at eliminating tire issues. But just rotating tires, because of existant wear patterns, can alter how the vehicle feels, even if there is not eye-ball detectable difference. If the problem moves after rotation, then it is likely tire/wheel related.
    What temps? Why do you think EPS?
    As with mine, if you are rolling straight and stays straight when releasing steering wheel, however applying brake veers toward oncoming traffic, it is braking related. But bad/loose part in suspension, a bad wheel bearing, could be shifting under the force of braking resulting in the veering to a side. Still, you say temp related so I'd chase that to the end.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Update. Talked to Lincon, they say I can take to any Ford Lincoln. Checked a couple of alternative dealers and decided to pass on local ford since they also use rent a wreck if you car stays and use a third party mop and bucket for clean up. Went to next closest Ford Lincoln. Mechanic said he did not see problem. Test drove with service writer, he did not see, but offered his boss. Boss said issue was with road surface and run-around. If it was the road, then we needed to drive on a different road. He mentioned something about road crown and felt it was going no where I left. But a couple of miles down the road I tried braking a few times in right and left lane, high point being to left and more slope in right lane. Against what I would have thought, the veer to the left was worse in the right lane. Say What? I turned around. Now out to lunch, then more run-around, and talk to his boss who happens to be at lunch. I wait. Surprise, at that time a Lincoln rep is there, we ride, he drives, yes there is a problem. Great, at least an admission. But he insists not brakes and wants align check. OK, it is out a bit, tow on front and rear, creating a slight angle. So aligned, my pocket, and problem still exists. The align has reduced the poor straight line control on bump, four-corner bouncing, and the bad effect of steering input play since it is likely applying less pressures against the steering dampening. And tires will need to settle to new settings.
    It looks like they only touched toe settings. Camber and caster settings read the same, within tolerances, but definitely not centered on ranges.
    Waiting on call back from Lincoln rep since they said they'd pass message, but I won't bet on it. (He bet align would take care of problem)
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Tried a troubleshooting thing yesterday that I had been absent minded over, probably because it worked for the hard pedal issue somewhat diagnosis. And in my mind it showed improper brake bleed after front brake repair then showing hard pedal and poor braking on sequential braking attempts. Almost certain improper brake bleed led to improper function of ABCM. And they would not do improper brake bleed a second time when rear brakes were worked on? Right?
    My improper brake bleed affecting centering of pistons/parts internal to ABCM is just a guess since I don't have actuall details of parts.

    But, I started that brake pedal press as far as possible while stopped. Note, the first time the pedal slowly settled to limit like a leaking piston cup in a master cylinder would. I've done this about three times so far and after the first one I could tell a tremendous decrease of the vehicle trying to dart toward oncoming traffic. As of yesterday afternoon, it almost was gone. And so far, after each improvement it was not working back toward the worse end of situation. I will be passing that info back to those who did not see a problem.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,327
    Bleeding the brakes is to get rid of H2O &/or air in the lines. As a result of your pedal pressing, where did the H2O and air in the lines go? :confuse:
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Bleeding does more than just remove air or moisture.
    Hydraulic brakes stated as a simple master cylinder and slave system. With front and rear slaves at some point mechanisms were introduced such as proportioning valves. An equal force to the rear brakes would result in rear brakes locking up creating a dangerous skid. A simple form with piston and springs allowed a maximum amount of fluid pushed to rear while more pressure/pedal could be applied to front. A better method employed by Mazda for a number of years before Ford adopted (earlier Taurus and others) was a pressure control mechanism that varied rear brakes according to weight on rear axle. It was at rear axle with an arm and link between body and axle. More weight on rear, the arm moved more allowing greater braking on rear. At a time maybe 60's vehicles started using what was dubbed safety brakes. Part of that was the dual in-line pistons of the master. If one failed the other took over usually with less braking. Variations on this occured with springs between the piston & cup of each portion. Some sent fluid from one piston to front, the other rear. Some vehicles crossed that relation with pressure from one piston going to one front brake and diagonal rear brake.
    Eventually the standard seemed to be a dual master cylinder plus a separate diverter and proportioning valves. Some combined the proportioning and diverter into a single assembly. Part of diverter, along with sending fluid to each brake, included valving/pistons to prevent total failure such as a burst line. The sudden flow toward that slave would overcome the spring allowing piston to at least partially block total loss of pressure allowing other three brakes to provide some braking.
    Air in system, bad news, it compresses. Sometimes small amounts of air get past rubber/neoprene sealing cups at pistons. Line routing can minimize migration away from problem area. Often that seal is damaged because of corrosion resulting from moisture in fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water from air, leave a container of it open and observe over weeks. Mercedes had as part of its scheduled maintenance a requirement to annually bleed brakes and every two years replace fluid. Non-corroding parts have helped eliminate that need, but water boils much lower than brake fluid.
    A whole new era with anti-lock brakes, traction control, and electronic stability control. Most now look like a dual-master, four slaves, and the ABCM between the master and slaves. ABCM being controlled by computer that determines proper output from various sensors.
    That ABCM reminds me of the valve body from an automatic transmission pre-electronic control. A nightmare of channeling to route fluid/pressure to the appropriate point, a check valve, springs and plungers, mechanical solenoids, pressure sensors, dividers, adders, multipliers, on and on. Electronics have removed much of that, but still the system needs to stay in balance for what might be non-computer control braking. The computer sits idle until it realizes a situation such as one wheel not turning or it has only one wheel turning.
    Regardless of added computer safety factors, the objective is proper braking without the computer having to take over.
    I can not speak specifically to the ABCM in this vehicle, but some earlier ones with the internal bores, pistons, and springs to provide proper fluid to each brake, had a piston and springs, even pistons with springs between, which generally controlled fluid for a pair of brakes, so at least two such bored cut into cavity of ABCM. The piston or pistons needed to be centered within the bore and may not have been self centering or doing so after an improper brake bleed or the burst line situation scenario mentioned earlier as part of divertor valve discussion.
    Will a brake bleed fix my issue? Maybe, maybe not, but it seems a logical step in diagnosing. Much like a vehicle that does not track properly, if visual inspection shows nothing, you might rotate tires or alignment check.

    I only point up all the extra detail to show how confused I am.
    Bottom line, vehicle will dart toward left upon brake apply. I know this is dangerous and would like to get it resolved without tearing the vehicle apart, but to do nothing because they can not pinpoint the problem is wrong.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,327
    Thank you for the education.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Little I know and fwiw. Update, cruising interstate something felt off and I took a close look at steering wheel. Turns out that bunch at OC Welsh are incapable of a proper alignment because the wheel is now clockwise of center. I got that service followup call yesterday and told them of that and the brake problem. Again asked if I wanted to trade. And then told not to bring back. And still waiting on callback from Lincoln.
    :mad:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,327
    Have you had to replace the Power Takeoff Unit or replaced the seals in your MKS? :(
  • quiltingalquiltingal Posts: 10
    No, I haven't had to. But had to replace Cabin filter.
  • Uh oh, and yes you read that correctly. 11 months and 11K miles into my 2013 MKS ownership, and my car died yesterday WHILE I WAS DRIVING IT and would not restart. This is less than a week after having my 10K service at the dealership and the fuel delivery module replaced under Recall ID # 13V227000. Lincoln Roadside Assistance was very helpful and managed to get my car towed to the dealership within 90 minutes of my call on a Sunday, although I was glad I had someone to take me home during the wait time because it was 36 degrees outside. The electrical system worked and I could hear the starter firing, but nothing was happening with the engine. The brake felt "frozen" and though it's been decades since I had to deal with a problem car (the last time I bought a Ford product, ironically), I have to say that this is a very bad omen. Lincoln called first thing this morning and said instead of a loaner car, their goal was to get my car fixed and back to me this morning. When I pointed out that having your car die while you're driving it is a significant safety issue, and it would be my preference for them to keep the car until they're 100% sure they know what's wrong with it, the service advice advisor agreed about the "safety issue thing" but reiterated that they want to get my car back to me instead of giving me a loaner, but he agreed to be completely sure first. Meanwhile, I'm stranded at home. I'm guessing they screwed something up when they serviced the car a week ago.

    Anyone have ideas of what the problem could be? What if the dealer messed my car up last week? How am I going to know if what they "repaired" caused irreparable damage to other systems in my car?
  • Update: Found the answer. The dealer said that the fuel level sending unit on the new fuel delivery module wasn't working, which means that my the fuel level on my dashboard stopped working, and I ran out of gas.

    Based on information provided on a dealer Q&A from Ford, my belief is that the new fuel delivery module was sent without the fuel level sending unit, and the service department forgot to transfer the sending unit to the new part as directed in Q11 on the last page of the document here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM439329/RCMN-13V227-59- 07.pdf.

    Given that 390,783 cars were affected, I hope that Ford/Lincoln pays more attention to its other customers than what I received. I am very lucky that I wasn't speeding down the highway with my two children in tow when this happened.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,689
    Sounds to me like they forgot to tighten a connection somewhere and it worked loose. That would also explain why they're able to fix it so quickly. I wouldn't worry about any long term issues.
Sign In or Register to comment.