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Pontiac Sunfire Electrical Problems

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  • argus1argus1 Posts: 8
    Help!! I bought a 2005 new. Was fine - at about 20,000 miles car began to buck and hardly accelerated - with check engine light flashing and trac light on. Dealer under warranty said computer indicated #2 cylinder misfire. They changed injector. About a month later exact same problem. Another dealer said it was bad wire to injector. About 6 weeks later exact same problem - car is now out of warranty. (worked fine between these episodes) I bring to my mechanic who changed coil pack - ran OK then a 2 weeks later exact same problem. Seems to happen more frequently now with much smoke coming out exhaust when it does happen. Now he thought it was control module until he read schematic that shows the control module handles cylinder 2&3 and cylindar 1&4 so he says it should be affecting both 2 and 3 - so now he says can't be control module. ANY help is much appreciated.
  • try disconecting your battery and then put it back on .go for a drive around town at a slow speed and this will let the computer reboot.If there is something not reading right it my correct itself for you. good luck.
  • Your problem is with the pink wire that is part of your wiring harness. Your harness goes from the front right headlight to the left headlight. There is a short in this wire. Open your hood and take the thin plastic apron off the front part of the compartment. Now look close to whre your hood latch is and you should see the wiring harness. Look for a white blister or break in the wire. This is how i found and solved my exact same problem this summer. The harness is wired tightly so you will need a small pice of 14-16 AWG wire and small wire nuts to complete the reconnection. Cover with heat shrink or eletrical tape and you should be set.
  • I know I have a 2001 sunfire and the 3 day i drove off the lot with it
    the check engine light came on. So i took it back they did something to make the light come off. Than not even 2 months later i had to get front brakes. Now after having thecar less than 6 months I have this rumbling in the front under the dash board, its is very loud i took it to a shop they said its the baljoints. Oh my gosh this car is a piece of crap, and now the brake light just came on today. I am getting rid of this car in Jan 2009. I really want a Dodge Stratus but I am going to get a car fax on it before i buy it and have a high price shop look at as well. i've learned my lesson with this car. I am going to make sure I buy it straight out no car payments for me. :(
  • I have a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. The first problem occurred a few months back when my digital odometer went out. It has never come back on. I had to take my car to a mechanic to get new brake pads and I mentioned this to him and he said he would have to take the whole dash out to get in there to see the problem. I was in a hurry to get my car back and figured "taking the whole dash out" would mean a bunch of money.

    I haven't taken this back to get fixed b/c it sounds costly. Anyone have an idea of how much it would cost?

    I just noticed the second problem this morning involving the daylight running lamps. This morning, the icon came on and then flashed a few times (and made a sound, like when you're turn signal is being used) and then went away and the "service" icon came on my dashboard.

    I looked in my driver's manual and it says, "a flashing DRL light indicates a possible burned-out headlamp, or that the vehicle may need service to repair a stuck DRL relay."

    Does anyone know how to know which one it is? And if it's a stuck DRL relay, how much would that be?
  • have a 1998 Pontiac Sunfire that will blow the fuel when it is raining, snowing, etc. I have had the fuel pump checked and it is good. Dealer said that the fuel filter was clogged and replaced it. They said that it was the problem, but it has quit again(a rainy day). What could be causing this to happen, a frayed wire,a short in the wiring?
  • Jan 2nd my check engine light comes on 50 miles into a new tank of gas. Had Advance check the engine code (cylinder 2 and 3 misfire) cleared it, figured a little bit of water in my gas, so i put a cleaner or two through the tank to fix it. six hours later the car is jerking down the road one minute and fine the next (NO ENGINE LIGHT) I call the dealership and arrange to drop it off. After charging me 90 to plug it in an read the code they tell me that they aren't sure the issue but they think its the spark plugs and the wiring in the module. So i dished out the 400 to have them fix it. Not a week later the check engine light is back on for the other side. I took the car to a friend that said the coil overs and the wiring for that part of the engine are not separate from the hot parts by a firewall they are laid directly over the coils. The engine check light will come on and then ten miles later go off, randomly flickers or just stays on.
    Its an 04 with only 54 thousand miles on it. I technically shouldn't have had to replace the sparkplugs yet.
    Anyone else having this problem?
  • argus1argus1 Posts: 8
    I had similar problem with my 2005.Car would begin to buck, lose power, and horrible exhaust smell. Dealer checked and said #2 misfire. - Changed ignitor - same problem a few weeks later. Another dealer said it was a wire - was OK for a month or so and then same problem. - My own mechanic worked on it - changed coil pack, even said it was computer - I bought a used one and had it programmed. All was OK for a couple of weeks - then same problem. To make a long story shorter - it turned out to be a wire intermintenly shorting against chassis. It was in a wire in wire bundle that goes to computer. You might want to check for shorting wire.
  • ciaciaciacia Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Sunfire. July 08 durning a REALLY bad Michigan thunderstorm I had literally jumped a phone pole that fell across the road. I drove the car again for about another month before really getting it checked out. New tires, balljoints, rods ect, and almost $1200 later I fixed any road problems I had with it.

    Now let me start with under the hood.

    My interior lights, and my radio, both are really strange. When I tighen my battery or charge it for even a moment, they both turn on and work. My radio will have to be manually turned on and off. After about a week, my interior light no longer will work, and my radio needs to be manually turned on still, but is totally reset (presets, clock, ect) and now turns off with the car.

    The car has stalling/starting issues. Durning the heat in the summer it would start, but I could only run it for maybe 20 mins. I couldn't let it idle, or keep turning it on and off w.o. it totally giving out on me. It would like take a min to catch to accelerate, even when im gassing it 100%, or if I was driving under about 30. Now its winter and really cold, the car has issues with wanting to start again. It doesn't drive worse or stall but it doesn't want to start. (Starter repaired three times. So far its been running agian for a week. The last two times it was within days of eachother)

    My muffler, converter, and alternatior were just recently replaced. Along w. spark plugs. A few other things were replaced trying to fix the stalling problem this summer, but I'm not exactly sure what ones they were.

    This week driving it was fine. Until I was reaching the stop sign and my break basically fell to the floor. Now it sounds like its pumping air, nearly will NOT work, and doesn't give any sort of stop untill it reaches the ground. My roommate found out im out of break fluid so put some in and is bleeding my lines tonight so find out if that is working.
    >I just dont understand how even if i was running low on the fluid, why my breaks would work just totally fine up until one moment and then totally give out?

    uggh. I don't know. 19 year old girl, part time and full time jobs, supporting myself, I can't deal w. all this bs anymore with this damn car. 7 months now and I can't go two weeks w. actually having a car to drive.
  • This might not be the same thing, but my 2.4L 1996 Sunfire had similar problems with bucking and stumbling. However, the check engine light never came on. Turns out my ignition coil and spark plug boots needed to be replaced. BUT I RECEIVED TWO BAD OEM IGNITION COILS! I'm currently using an ignition coil from a junkyard while my garage works something out with AC-Delco. The moral of the story is the fixed part might be a bad part.
  • Hi, I have the same problem with the headlights on a 98 sunfire. I have narrowed it down to corrosion to the main headlight wiring harness either under the front frame before the front tires or its under the battery box at the main plug. I was told by a mechanic that there is no telling how much it will cost because there is no guarantee how many hours it will take to fix it. The one thing I have noticed is if you let the problem go it will only get worse so my car is scheduled to be torn apart because now I only have one dim headlight no brights or running lights. This thing is a huge waste of money and should be recalled by the company and destroyed so no one else has this problem.
  • I bought a 1996 pontiac sunfire last year, the previous owner said he had replaced the motor mounts, water pump, and brakes. It ran great except for it getting hot when at idle for long periods of time, a few months later had to replace the radiator due to a major crack. Before that had to get a new rotor and all the brakes replaced. Now today when i started the car the battery light was on, went to the gas station filled the car up and got back on the road no problem other then the battery light and now brake light was on, took the highway home and the longer i drove the more the power in the car went, first the radio sputtered in and out then finally just quit, then the dash lights and head lights got dimmer til they were out but the car was still running, didn't stop at all til i pulled in my parking lot and the car died right as i put it in park. The dome light would still work just a little dimmer then usual so the battery cant be all the way dead. Anyone have any ideas? reading on here i think it's the alternator and am going to get it checked in the morning, any other ideas? any help will be greatly appreciated!!
  • Help!! all of a sudden the temp gauge goes so far to the right - it keeps tach needle from moving. Even when car is off the temp gauge needle stays far to the right, Is is sender problem, or instrument cluster needs changing, Is true milage stored in computer so when instrument cluster with odometer is changed - the true milage changes onto the new cluster?

    Thanks
  • how offten has everyone been going through batteries on these cars. i have an '03 sunfire, has served me welll as a commuter until recently. i have had to get a jump start 6 times in the last month and a half and can garuntee that i have not left anyhing on. when i put a meter on the battery i measured .26Amps current comming out. it is possible to have a bad measurement but it also sugests that there is somthing in the electrical system that is pulling a load. I have an appointment this afternoon to get the car looked at, but are there any thoughts on the subject? and has anyone else been experiancing this problem.

    hoping its just the battery. . .

    Mike
  • If its the original battery then replace the battery. About C$75.00 at Costco.
    If its a new battery you have a problem. I have a 2002 and had to replace the battery 6 months ago as well.
  • i lucked out, it was just the battery. had the shop check it out just in case, had new lights put in while it was there, all in all i could have saved some money by getting a new batery myself but i like to stay on the side of caution.
  • I'm having the same issues with my gauges. My gas gauge has flipped completely over so when it's full, it reads past the 110 mph mark. I also have had the temp gauge wonk out on me where it won't reset properly. My brother-in-law, who's also a mechanic, told me it's the instrument cluster and it's not a cheap fix. There's also a wire box under the frame by the front left tire and all the wiring is rotting on it, causing the issues with the gauges. There's no telling how much it would take to fix since they can't tell how many hours it would take. The speedometer also doesn't reset properly once in awhile, so sometimes my car will zero out at 30, then 40 then 50 etc.. until it hits the point where the needle is buried past 110. Then it takes a few times of turning the car off/on to get it back to 0.

    Does anyone have matches? Let's all just meet at the Pontiac plant and torch the mother f-ers :mad:
  • I want to replace my instrument gauge cluster with a used one. I have a 2005 sunfire (digital odometer). I have heard different responses as to whether when the used replacement cluster is installed - is the true mileage of car (as indicated on the original removed cluster) automatically reset that mileage to the used cluster that was installed? Is original miles stored in ECU? Thanks
  • Your car will not reflect true mileage if you change the cluster.
  • thanks for reply. Is there a way to get mileage onto the replaced luster, I was told it is stored in ECU
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