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Dodge Magnum Maintenance & Repair



  • jacktbjacktb Posts: 41
    Problem: My 2005 Magnum RT (5.7) with 18K miles will stumble after a highway drive at 70 mph. After I exit the highway and drive for 1 or 2 miles at residential speeds of 35 mph, the engine will momentarily stumble but will not stall. I let off the throttle and it kicks back in after a second or two.

    This happens after the above scenario only. Otherwise the engine runs flawlessly.

    Any help would be appreciated as I want to gather as many ideas as possible before tearing into it.

  • My (N.O.S.) 2006 Magnum Hemi needs to crank for several seconds before firing up. The dealer tells me that this is "normal" (what else?).

    The thing is, other cars I have owned start up almost instantly when the key is turned; case in point: my '87 Buick Grand National, after having been stored for three years, roared to life the moment I turned the key. Why doesn't my Magnum?
  • I have an 08 R/T purchased November last year. I came from a 300C which was superb in every respect. In comparison, the Magnum is a disappointment. At just 1300 miles the oil was filthy. Same again at 2800 miles. Two oil changes in under 3000 miles. Now, at 3400 miles the engine seems to be breaking down the oil prematurely yet again. I don't drive it aggressively - it's in cruise control most of the time.

    The car rides and handles as well as the 300, but the engine is rough overall. In particular it has trouble picking up speed gently say from 20-30mph. The transmission takes several seconds to search for the correct gear and it sounds like a 1940s pick-up truck! Major disappointment. The dealer ran some diagnostics but all that has resulted in is a drop in mpg - from 22 to 20.
  • tekno1tekno1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2007 R/T AWD which has severe steering problems. On a smooth, flat road it will go straight. On a road which has a crown, I am fighting the wheel most of the time to keep it on the road. Slight imperfections in the road cause the car to "squirm" and sometimes feel like it is jumping right or left. On roads with irregular surfaces, the car rocks side to side like a vehicle which has been wrecked. The steering feels very loose and one tends to overcorrect when changing lanes, etc. On high speed sweeping curves, the car rocks with any irregularity in the road and feels like I am losing control. I have had it to three dealers, who have aligned it twice and pronounce it "normal." I have the Continentals which I hear may be a problem, but I have Continentals on my Avalon which corrected the poor performance of the original Michelins. I have seen one comment here that an adjustment of a "subframe" and alignment corrected the problem. I have also seen a comment that the steering gear was replaced. Any other suggestions?
  • Continentals are a HUGE problem. Mine lasted 18 K !!!!!! The run flats just plain suck!!!! :lemon:

    Do you have steering noise problem when turning?? If so run it to the dealership and have them inspect the differential discs BEFORE the warranty expires!!!! A little know fact that Dodge knows about but is not on their service bulletin radar (yet). :mad:

    It could save you up to $500!!!! ;)
  • pagetpaget Posts: 7
    The LED burnt out and the dealer says I have to buy the whole assy $80 and it's $120 in labor to replace. Any thoughts?
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Posts: 402
    Post them here
  • migrain1migrain1 Posts: 2
    I had the same issue with my 06 RT AWD. All over the road! I replaced the tires with yokohama and it was like I have a whole new car. The factory tires are junk and worn out at 18k. It would be even better with a wider set of Generals I think. The yokos are a bit stiff when cold, but worlds better than the conti.
  • brit5brit5 Posts: 12
    This is an easy fix -- I went through this problem some time ago with my 3.5 Concord & the car spent considerable time (& resulting $) in the shop. Eventually I gave up on the shop & started looking myself . I found the problem -- on higher milage 3.2 & 3.5 engines the spark plug boots start to track -- as simple as that. I had replaced ignition coils on the misfiring cylinders (boots included) & the problem jumped to different cylinders. I was looking at the coil assembly & I noticed a faint white track-line in the plug boot. I immediately bought new boots & instant fix.

    I applied that fix to my sister's 3.2 Concord which was exhibiting the same symptoms -- bingo -- all gone.

    I also have a comment re. 5.7 engine shaking at idle. Calm down everyone, it really is normal. This engine has an agressive cam with plenty of duration, lift & overlap -- it is the only way to get that free-reving hefty performance out of a pushrod engine. Compared to the hi-output pushrod V8's of years ago, the 5.7 hemi's "shakes" are barely noticable. It can't be "fixed", so either enjoy it or change cars. Some folks just don't know how well-off they are with this wonderfully civilized reincarnation of the hemi -- it even has the unmistakable hemi sound, although well muted.
  • when driving slow (parking lot, etc.) and encounter small bump, there is a distinctive rattle in the front end, particularly the drivers side. At normal speeds no noise noticeable. Have had the Tie rods upper and lower ? replaced, no fix. alignment, tires, brakes all good. Help!
  • I don't agree that it is "normal," or at least that it SHOULDN'T be normal.

    The reason, is this: sometimes, when I pull up to a light, the idle is smooth and sometimes you can feel the car shaking a bit. The presence or absence of the shaking correlates with idle speed; when the engine is ticking over at just a tad over 500 rpm, it shakes a bit, but when the idle settles in at say, about 650 rpm (I am obviously estimating here, with an analog readout on the tach), it feels smooth.

    So the issue is that I have never seen a modern, computer-controlled engine idle speed vary by that much, even in cars twenty years older.

    It's just a glitch in the engine management system that shouldn't be there (I noticed no correlation with ambient temperature, how hot the engine is, A/C use, etc).
  • If your car is fitted with one (not all are) it should be under the cowel on the left side.

    Pop the hood, look @ the left side below the wiper, there should be a long access panel with some tabs, push the tabs open the panel and the filter should be in there!.

    Hope this helps.
  • I have the same issue with a rattle on a 2008 Magnum. The noise, however, is coming from the passenger side. It only occurs when I am on residential streets, or somewhere you have to drive at lower speeds. I have been to the dealership twice, they claim to have not heard a thing. They said they re torqued everything on the front end and there was nothing loose. They also said, they had re lubed the entire front end and that should stop it. It hasn't. I am going to take it back for the third time next week. Does anyone have any ideas at all?
  • My 05 Magnum had the poor handling issues. Dumping the OEM tires cured that. I also had the rattling knocking noises at low speed over bumpy roads, parking lots. My mechanic replaced the sway bar bushings and that resolved the issue. The noises have returned again, so I believe the other bushings are probably toast. Most mechanics said there wasn't anything wrong with the front end, but this last guy really researched it for me.
  • My 2005 dodge magnum R/T will shut down when driving. This only happens after filling up with gas. I will be driving and car will shutdown any were from 4 to 8 times. No power steering, No power brakes, nothing. It will start back up and then do it again. Have taken to the dealer ship numers times and they can not find anything wrong with it. They want me to pay $300 + to run some more tests and that my not even tell them what the problem is. I'm thinking it has something to do with fuel system. Has any buddy heard of this problem before or have any thoughts. Please help.
  • I was turning into a parking lot the other day when the car lost all power. I had to put the car back into Park and then turn the key again to start it up. It started up and ran just fine after that. I haven't had this issue since. I am wondering what might be the cause of this? :confuse:
  • Does anyone know the location of the sensor on a 2005 Magnum RT?? The check engine light went on, I went to Auto Zone she ran the computer and told me that it was a sensor. I got the piece now I need to install. Will there be a lot of coolant leaking.?? The car is cold !!! Any help would deeply appreciated.
  • bec3bec3 Posts: 2
    I have a 07 Magnum RT ( NEW) it has done the same thing to me 2 times. I took it to the shop and they told me without a warning light they could not find out what the problem is. My trans. got stuck in 3rd gear and I drove the car 30 miles to get home. With no warning light. The light can on later that night when I took my husband for a drive in the car. To show him what it was doing. I went about 1 more mile and then the warning light went on. So if Iam wating for the light to come on, good luck.
  • bec3bec3 Posts: 2
    Has anyone had parking brake problems?? I have had my front, and rear brakes replaced. My parking brake makes a metal to metal nosie when you are going 10 to 15 MPH. I have a Magnum RT 2007 with 14,000 miles. I have had my car in the shop 6 times for the brakes. Last time with the parking brake Dodge told the dealership to switched the brakes. The put the right on the left and the left on the right. It did not work. Now that they cannot fix my car. The want me to bring it back when a Dodge Rep is there so the can drive the car.
  • I have been having the same problem for over 6 months. It only happens when I fill up will gas and only if I fill up till the gas pump quits pumping. If I don't fill up it dos not happen. I have take to Dodge they don't know what is wrong ether. They have had the car numerous times and ran there test. They now want me to pay about $300+ to run test that they are unsure will tell them whats wrong. The car will completely shut down and will do it many time. It will also jump forward. Now if I just fill it up to 3/4 of a tank or less it will not do any of these thinks. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
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