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Honda Fit Prices Paid and Buying Experiences



  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    First off, remove VAT and Shipping and tarrifs. Now convert the base price over to Dollars. That's within a few hundred dollars of what it would be in the U.S. for most industrialized countries. The easy way to do it, though, is to price a Civic DX and add about $500-$600, since that's effectively what it was for decades. Honda just decided to drop it recently so as to not canabalize Fit sales.

    In Canada, they sell it as the DX-G. Note, though, that the prices inbclude a wad of government taxes and import fees that have to be removed from the "base" price. About $1500 USD by the looks of it, comparing a Civic LX in Canada to U.S., even after conversion.

    I checked, it's 9.2% flat tarriff on cars from Japanese companies. Wherever they are made is irrelevant, apparently - Honda is currently taking them to court over this.

    So we get:
    19,080 Base price. = 17,475 before the tarriff, which the U.S. doesn't charge. *0.894616(currency)=$15,633. But Honda always sells the VP models for a few hundred over cost here in the U.S.($16K for an Accord VP, for instnace), so you can subtract a couple of hundred more.

    Honda Civic DX U.S. Prices, including delivery:
    CarsDirect Price: $14,659(searched online, Pasadena, CA.)
    Civic LX:
    CarsDirect Price: $16,737(same search)
    So figure a VP would run about $15,600 MSRP(the estimate I made above is very close) and sell for ~15K even from CarsDirect.

    Side note: The Civic DX isn't a bad car, either. That's an amazing price. No A/C, but it certainly whomps on many of the budget cars out there in terms of handling and style.

    P.S.: Honda Fit DX(Canada) pricing:
    $14,980 = $13,718 before tarriffs.
    That's MSRP, but Honda hates oddball figures like that, and likely has the MSRP set to Canada at a few dollars less, but they bump the price up just under $15K. So figure $12,250, with a "buy it now" sale price of $11,995 all over town.

    If they sold it in the U.S., that is. So, yes, the Fit is overpriced, currently. They really need a DX or VP version of it and the Civic to fill in the lower-end and whomp on the Yaris and Aveo.
  • crimsonacrimsona Posts: 153
    DX Fit in Canada does not come with Air conditioning. From what I see, there seems to be little to no demand for a car in the US with no AC, so it seems to be quite ineffective for US comparison purposes. I guess it's possible here since we could probably go year-round without turning on the AC at all.

    Theoretical pricing aside, the actual sales price coupled with sales taxes push the LX Auto and Sport Auto to 20k/22k respectively USD out the door. Honestly, I would love to have imported the Fit from the US. Even after extra import duty of 9%, Washington state sales tax and Canadian sales tax after recrossing the border, it still would have been marginally cheaper that way. Only problem was the travel time and expenses I would need to import the car in the first place - time I don't have, since I would need to Greyhound each way.

    Aside: If the car was made in North America, regardless of manufacturer, it would not be subject to import duty. Different from private ownership? Perhaps. But since the 07 Fit is made in Japan, this point is moot.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Re-read my post above. DX-G. DX-G. It's a value-package DX with the A/C and a stereo and so on added, so it's comparable to the older VP they stopped selling in the U.S.

    Yeah, the prices up there do stink - 9.2% incoming into Canada and 9% importation tax into the U.S. - it's clearly not a viable option.

    Canada sees *all* Japanese cars as "Japanese" and exempt from NAFTA. Honda took Canada to the WTO over this and the case is still pending. Then again, it's not a lot different than U.S. customers thinking a Honda made in Georgia is "Japanese" I guess.
  • crimsonacrimsona Posts: 153
    I'm quite sure you're mistaken on the import duty. I was researching heavily into importing a US made car due to lower prices and strong Canadian dollar. I could have saved a couple thousand off a Honda Fit. In any case, it's 6.1% and not 9.2, now that I've looked it back up again.

    Canadian government

    Canadian general forums, with an ex-customs agent answering the duty question:

    Importing a US made Subaru (no duty charged)
  • I went to the following website and put together a Fit Sport,

    Base MSRP*: $15,170
    Destination and Handling: $550
    MSRP as Configured: $15,720

    Selected Accessories (installation costs not included):
    16" Alloy Wheel $836
    Chrome Exhaust Finisher $30
    Rear Bumper Appliqué $58
    Sport Grille $220
    Full Nose Mask $145
    Carpet Floor Mats $99
    Cargo Cover $165
    Cargo Tray $99
    Aluminum Shift Knob $49

    Base MSRP*: $15,170
    Destination & Handling: $550
    MSRP including selected accessories: $17,421

    Here is what a dealer quoted me on a Honda Fit Sport with the above accessories:

    "The 16, is that wheels? We will do $20578.30 without wheels. $21454.30 with wheels. You will also need tires. What tires do you want? I did not charge sales tax, where are you going to register the car?"
  • paranodeparanode Posts: 2
    Don't pay too much for the options. Most of them you can buy at a place like H and A Accessories and then install them yourself. I'm getting the Sport MT for MSRP and will add the accessories I want at a lower price (unless I can get the dealer to throw them in at cost).
  • Thanks Paranode for the tip... unfortunately, I cannot install the options myself due to an injury. I told the dealership to keep the Fit; I can purchase an SI for $21454.30, w/17" inch wheels including the tires. I realize it's a new vehicle and in high demand, but I'm not getting taken to the cleaners due to the Fit being the new kid on the block. I'll probably purchase the 2006 Chevrolet Aveo Hatchback instead and save the $.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Trust us all - the Aveo is a dreadful tin can. Very reminiscent of the old Toyota Tercel from about ten years ago - a flimsy piece of junk.

    Me? I love buying used. Let some other fool eat the depreciation. For the price of a base Fit, you could easily get a 3-4 year old GM vehicle. Yes, I'd never buy one new, but used, they are good choices due to their quick depreciation and still decent enough mechanical reliability. A three year old Vibe, for instance, can be had for under $10K.
  • ramoramo Posts: 66
    Funny, that Tercel of 10 yrs. ago is the one I traded for a Fit. I got good money for that 'junk', and it only cost me: 1200.00 Can. or about 1000.00 US per year in repairs and maintenance, over 6 yrs. It is also considered a great choice in the used car world (Phil Edmonston). If my dog didn't need a space for his hair, and my kid space for his telescoping legs, I might have kept the Tercel. I wouldn't say flimsy, so much as stodgy, in that you had to give it a little kick to go to point B. The Fit has just enough of an edge to make someone like me happy, meaning that I won't be racing anytime soon, but derive some quiet pleasure from meeting the curves in my road. Now, it will be interesting to see how hubby likes the Fit, given his last new car was an 85 Firebird. At least we have the hatch and magic seats.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    The old Tercel was fine, but the standard has now been raised with the Fit and YAris, which are worlds better than the old Tercel ever was and especially the rebadged Daewoo Kalos GM is charging a steep bit of markup for.

    In Korea, if you figure out the exchange rates, the Kalos sells for about $7500 USD in the base form. A bit of EPA-compliant smog equipment and front lenses, plus a new nameplate and presto - $2500 markup for the trouble.

    Unfortunately, it drives like a $7500 car. It honestly reminds me of a KIA/Ford Aspire. I really REALLY don't recommend it to the person who posted that they were looking at one. A used Buick can be had for less money and will at least drive 100K miles+ with few problems(though the interior isn't much better than the Aveo - lol)
  • hungarian83hungarian83 Posts: 678
    Not to go too far off topic from the discussion title, but the new Aveo sedan completely bombed the 64 km/h (40 mph) frontal offset in the EuroNCAP crash tests. It received 1.5 stars (worst since 1999) for things like rearward movement of the A-pillar, steering wheel movement, etc. The test dummy's chest even distorted the steering wheel during impact. :surprise:
    Oh, and major deformation of the roof is usually not a positive mark either. case another reason is needed not to buy the car ;)

    Meanwhile, "The Jazz's cabin proved to be strong and stable, suffering only minimal deformation in the frontal impact" :D
  • dotseuratdotseurat Posts: 14
    Do I really need to get a Fit Sport? Do you think it really upgrades the quality of the vehicle? I'm not a high maintenance person at all. All I really care about are power windows/locks, A/C, all of the airbags. And I love the ipod hookup as well!

    I'm scared to buy a brand new model like this, so I hope I won't be making a rash decision!
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,862
    I'm scared to buy a brand new model like this, so I hope I won't be making a rash decision!

    The Fit is a 5 year old model :surprise: , not brand new, you can eliminate "new model" concern entirely.
  • hungarian83hungarian83 Posts: 678
    There is no difference in terms of quality, mechanics, suspension, etc. between the Fit and Fit Sport.

    Between the two cars, the engines are identical, the transmissions are identical (with the exception of paddle shifters on Sport 5AT), suspensions are identical.

    If all you really care about are the power windows, locks, and A/C and you don't mind forsakeing cruise control and keyless entry, then just go for the Fit (base model). The things added to the sport model like the wing spoiler, body kit, and alloy wheels are all for looks. Handling will be slightly better with the 55 profile tires (compared to 65 on the base), but everything else will be the same...including quality.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,879
    And there are many ways to hook up an iPod. My son uses a device that transmits the iPod's playback through the FM radio. Works fine. Cost about $30 I think.
  • ramoramo Posts: 66
    Thanks. Your posts are very informative. R.
  • edt1edt1 Posts: 3
    Managed to get my new Blaze Orange Sport AT Fit at only 250 over dealer invoice (got that from Edmunds :blush: ) and had my new car in only five days. After reading the prices paid by others I think I fell into a very good deal.
  • dotseuratdotseurat Posts: 14
    Thanks, you are so helpful! As far as the ipod hookup, I hate the radio thing. Everytime I've used it it's been a disaster. The difference in price between the two aren't all that staggering, so maybe I should just go up to the sport. I definitely like the idea of keyless entry! I've had that for years now, it would stink to go back to the old way haha. I did want to save some $$ though. I went to the dealer here in Jersey and I couldn't even test drive one. They had only one there, and it was sold and it had a manual transmission. All the dealers in the area are swapping cars, so it's pretty hard to find at the moment. I suppose I won't be getting a hot deal anytime soon on this car!

    Any tips on how I should negotiate? I've never bought a new car before!
  • dotseuratdotseurat Posts: 14
    I thought Lunar mist only came in the base model...I hope it comes in sport cuz that's my fave color!
  • nordonordo Posts: 12
    According to the fit brochure you are correct.
    Lunar Mist is only for the base with Beige or Black interior.
  • hungarian83hungarian83 Posts: 678
    I pre-ordered my car on January 20th (first dealership pre-orders) and it was delivered on April 18th. I was not in any position to negotiate since it was a take it or leave it situation. If I wasn't going to buy it, there was a list of willing people who fact all Fits had been spoken for at that dealership for some time. Of course, at the same time I was quite adamant that I did not get charged any premiums. This did not happen, but since they are charging high premiums on the Civic Hybrid and Si, I was worried they might with the Fit being brand-new. Of course, now the same dealership is charging approximately $500 above MSRP for the car.

    This was also my first new car purchase, so I'm sorry I'm not much help on the negotiating.

    Just a note on the Lunar Mist Metallic. It is only available on the base model with beige interior. The brochure does indeed say "beige/black", but that is one color. The only Fit that can be had with either beige or black is the Fit Sport in Tafetta White...for which the brochure says "beige/black or black"
    I think they call it beige/black because the upholstery is the only thing that is really beige...the rest of the interior is much darker.
  • Picked up my Milano Red Sport MT last Saturday. Had ordered it on 14 April. I can give a very positive recommendation to Fisher Honda of Boulder, CO. I went there rather than a closer Honda dealer because I had heard good things about them and I wasn't dissapointed. Got the car for sticker price w/o any markup or dealer add-ons. Paid $225 installed price for rubber mats, exhaust finisher and rear bumper protection strip. Salesman was excellent - timely and complete communication via Email.

    Had to listen to the usual half hour spiel by the finance guy about things I didn't want (insurance, Lojak, etc) before writing the check but not really high pressure.

    Checked out the service area when I had the accessories installed - pretty nice setup. The usual shuttle rides available, but also loaner bicycles if you want to run errands in Boulder and also a computer with internet access!

    So if you're in the Front Range area and want a FIT, I'd recommend Fisher. Salesman did say that availability of manual transmission Fits may be limited for awhile, though.
  • antho73antho73 Posts: 1
    Hi. I am new to this forum. I just recently purchased a Melano red honda sport fit for the msrp price and thats that the dealer had a mark up of 4995.00. I bought it with automatic. Did I do Ok?
  • dotseuratdotseurat Posts: 14
    I test drove a base model and loved it!! I'm amazed that the car is so petite yet has so much space inside.

    So after the test drive, the typical haggling ensued. I think I made the mistake by focusing on how much I want to pay per month rather than what the vehicle costs. I told him I'd put down 3K-5K but would prefer 3K and I wanted to pay no more than $250 a month. He offered, with 3K down, 60 months at payments of $262 (actually brought it down from 281 I think). When I brought up the invoice price/MSRP, he went on this whole speech about how the Honda Fit isn't like other vehicles, that it there aren't any special optional packages, so they are expected to sell it at one price. Is this true? So anyway, I left so I could think about it.

    Now..when he calculated my monthly payments, he was estimating the interest rate I would get, right? He could be completely off for all I know. At this point, he's selling it to me for $18,720 but I'm still not sure if that's including the interest. My boyfriend thinks I should go back and say I'll take the car if I can have it at $250 a month over 60 months, 3K down. They really were adamant about selling me this car (Anyone ever dealt with Garden State Honda in Clifton, NJ?) and were working with me at the time, but I'm not sure they'd go down that far.

    What are your thoughts?

  • ramoramo Posts: 66
    Hi! You were very wise to walk away to think about your deal. Be very clear on everything before you buy. 60 X250=15000, so the extra money to bring your price up to 18720 is what???? What is MSRP? Start with that. People here seem to think that is what you should pay and no more. Add taxes and accessories. Now, find out what your interest rate is over 60 months, and plug your figures into a car loan calculator (tons on the net). Then you have some info to work with. Let your dealer know what you are willing to pay for the car, THEN figure out how much the car will cost with your loan. There are 3 areas where the car dealership stands to make money: The sale price, your trade in price, and the financing options. If you still feel uncomfortable with working the numbers, take someone with you!!! You should know your bottom line before you start negotiations, or the dealer will charge you more than you need to pay. Check some of the other posts under buying experiences. There are a lot of good negotiators here. Don't neglect research on the cost of your trade in. Know what that is worth so you don't get taken there. Good Luck! :)
  • dotseuratdotseurat Posts: 14
    Well 60x250 is 1500, but you also have to add in what I'm putting down for deposit - 3000. Then it comes to 18720. Is he just ballparking the interest in that figure? Should I just go there and give them a specific figure that I will pay -MSRP is now $15,200 (what figure would you suggest?), not even considering monthly payments and financing? Sorry, I'm so new to this! Thanks for your help! I'll be bringing my accountant boyfriend to my next trip to the dealer! haha
  • carfanatic007carfanatic007 Posts: 267
    Nice try antho73, but trolls are easily spotted. No dealer would add a mark up of $4,995.00. Get a job!
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Get a check for MSRP from your bank or credit union. They won't mess with you at all - 110% up=front about the charges and rates. No way in the world will the dealer be able to beat them unless your credit is perfect and you qualify for special factory interest rates/incentives - which Honda rarely does.

    Walk in - haggle a bit - hand over the check. Pay the taxes and fees out of pocket/with a second check. In and out in under an hour.

    $262*60=15700+3500=19,200. The guy was using $3500 I bet, even though you said $3000 - an old overused tactic - because then they can get into good cop/bad cop routines with you/ "well you said $3000-$3500 - and with $3500 this is the best I can get for you..."

    You can see where this is heading - another $10 a month($100 profit for them) for accepting $3000 instead of $3500.. Then they add in a bit more padding and they wear you "down" to $275 a month. Then they add in tax and fees on top of that and you end up paying $285 a month and wondering why you feel like you got run over.

    Just say no - get your bank to give you a loan and bypass them entirely. Yes, it would mean you need the taxes and fees out-of-pocket, but that's your downpayment in effect. I recommend doing this as it's easy for any bank to do the loan and also keep the payments as low as possible. Any extra money you might have - also toss into the loan if you want - or maybe spend a few hundred dollars($400-$500 should be enough, trust me) to get the warranty raised to 6 years.

    People talk about how bad extended warranties are, but the fact is that they are dirt cheap and should be done at least for the life of the loan. Their advice is mostly anecdotal from the 50s and 60s when they were bad deals.

    Everyone I know who has done this has saved themselves hundreds or thousands in repairs in the 5th and 6th years. A simple MAF can run upwards of $250 on most cars, and that's just the tip of the iceberg. A gasket or a timing belt that goes out at 40K can top $500 almost instantly - just for the labor alone. Prices for repairs in the last five years have skyrocketed.

    But in any case, it shouldn't cost you more than $100-200 for each extra year, especially if you are paying MSRP for the vehicle)
  • ramoramo Posts: 66
    OK, Let us say the car costs 15,000 (TOTAL). You put down 3,000. This means you are borrowing 12,000 and paying interest to do this. I assume you do not have a trade in. If you borrowed 12,000 for 60 months at 6% interest, you would have a monthly payment of 232.03 for the 60 months. In other words, it would cost you $1921.80 for the loan because you are paying to borrow 12,000. If there was no interest, your payment would be $200 per month. So, get your total price. Take away 3000. Then, figure out the interest rate for 60 months. Remember, your 3000 deposit decreases the amount you borrow. THE ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS THE ONE NOT ASKED! :confuse:
  • johnnyvjjohnnyvj Posts: 112
    I think I made the mistake by focusing on how much I want to pay per month rather than what the vehicle costs.

    Bingo. Crooked car salesman LOVE IT when buyers focus on the monthly payment, because they can jigger the numbers to come close to the monthly payment you feel comfortable with, while screwing you elsewhere. Its like a magician... the wildly waving hand is distracting you, while the other hand is actually performing the trick.

    Focus instead on the bottom line, which is the total cost of the vehicle. Though on the Fit, I'd expect to pay MSRP right now, no lower. Just make sure you aren't getting screwed by the salesguy attempting to slip silly 'add-ons' in like 'rustproofing' or 'Xzilon supertough clearcoat surface treatments'... these are invariably rip-offs that add hundreds to the cost of the car, yet aren't even worth a fraction of that. If the salesguy says sorry, no silly add-ons, no sale, then thank him for his time and walk out. He was trying to screw you.

    Someone else suggested to get your financing from your bank... I would agree with that, since it reduces the dealership's leverage over you and simplifies negotiations. I'd say calculate out what the car is gonna cost you at MSRP, plus tax, title, license, destination charge, and whatever options you want, and call that the price you're willing to pay out the door. If the salesguy quotes you a different price than that, find out exactly what is causing the difference, and determine if its bogus or not, even if it means 'having to think about it' and walking away to go do some more research at home on the Internet or talking to friends.

    Remember, the salesman is NOT your friend, he's just friendly. There's a big difference between the two. :surprise:
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