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Tahoe Suburban Brake Questions

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You may want to try either Chevy Suburban or Chevy Tahoe where you can find other owners who may have experienced that problem.

    tidester, host
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,252
    Hi J_rohas, your post has been moved to the existing Axiom discussion. Here's the link:

    j_rohas, "Isuzu Axiom" #2397, 8 Apr 2006 7:42 pm

    Please continue over there. You may want to check out Stop here! Let's talk about brakes. Thanks,

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Got a Quick, Technical Question? may be of help as well as Owner's Manual.

    tidester, host
  • jk06jk06 Posts: 7
    At various times front brakes really pulsate to the point where it is really annoying. Other times they work perfect. When they act up the road condition is not the problem. At first I thought it was warped rotors which I replaced as well as pads. Did not solve the problem. Also I replaced master cylinder. It appears ABS is activating for no reason. To add to this sometimes the door locks do not always work for all the doors, seems to be some type of low voltage. That happens about 5% of the time. Any ideas I would appreciate.
  • king33vking33v Posts: 2
    It could most likely be your wheel hub assy. There is a sensor on there that regulates that light. If you have good brakes this is probably the problem. I'm about to replace the same part on my 2001 Tahoe. I'm trying to find a place online with free diagrams because I'm cheap!
  • king33vking33v Posts: 2
    I'm cheap and don't want to buy the book. Any where I can look them up online?
  • tcrenshawtcrenshaw Posts: 2
    there is a factory recall because of corrosion problems. the vibration and braking problem is the abs engaging.
    If this is a low speed problem , it usually occurs when parking ,what they call the curb bumper. The brakes fail to a point that you lunge into the curb ,or concrete tire stops at parking lots. Its GMs problem to fix . check out gm recalls.
  • tcrenshawtcrenshaw Posts: 2
    1999-2005 tahoe,suburban there is a factory recall because of corrosion problems. the vibration and braking problem is the abs engaging.
    If this is a low speed problem , it usually occurs when parking ,what they call the curb bumper. The brakes fail to a point that you lunge into the curb ,or concrete tire stops at parking lots. Its GMs problem to fix . check out gm recalls.
  • jk06jk06 Posts: 7
    Not all 1999's are included, I called GM and mine was not one of the recalls. I did clean the sensors myself and no problems since. It was not that hard but required a lot of time!
  • I have a 2001 chevy Tahoe, my ABS would come on when braking at low speed, after some time the dealership agreed to do the recall, only to say I still have the problem and need to replace my front hubs, they want to replace the driver side first and if that doesn't fix it they'll do the passenger side. I took the vehicle to a local sears and they did a free steering inspection stating that the hubs are in perfect condition. Any ideas? Did the dealership really do the recall? How can I tell? :mad:
    I have attached a description of the recall that i found on line.
    http://www.uautono.com/recallsarchive2005.html

    GM to recall 553,000 SUVs, trucks to fix brakes (12/24/05)
    General Motors Corp. is expanding an earlier recall of sport utility vehicles and pickup trucks to include another 553,000 vehicles because of potential problems with brakes. Unwanted application of the anti-lock brake system in some vehicles can cause increased stopping distances during low-speed braking. GM in August recalled 804,000 full-size pickup trucks and SUVs in 14 states for the same problem. The recall is being expanded to include Delaware, Iowa, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Wisconsin and the District of Columbia. Vehicles affected by the recall include the Chevrolet Avalanche and Silverado pickups and the Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe SUVs. The GMC Sierra pickup and Yukon and Yukon XL SUVs are also affected. All the vehicles are from the 1999-2002 model years. More than 200 crashes and some minor injuries were linked to the recall.
  • there is nothing wrong with the hubs...the problem in this case seems like a wheel speed sensor corrosion problem, which is located in the hub, and yes a new hub would come with a new sensor. but if there is nothing wrong with the hub...you can just replace the speed sensor, they just want to hit you up for more money by replacing the whole assembley. just replace the speed sensors and clean the mounting surface, its a fairly easy repair...if you can replace brakes and rotors, you should have no problems doing this yourself.
  • burbluvburbluv Posts: 1
    Hi first time forumer. I bought a '95 Chevy Burb 1500 last year for $5k @ 100K on it. I've put appx. 26K on it w/ no issues. I just changed orig. Oxygen & MAP Sensors last week. Now my ABS light sparatically comes on. When this happens I lose power and my odometer goes to "0," even though I could be doing 50-70 mph. My RPM's are still high, but it doesn't shift gears when this happens. It doesn't seem to be the tranny, but it's like I'm driving while pressing the brakes. Someone Help!!! :confuse:
  • Just returned from the dealership and had an interesting talk with the service guy. My subburban was in for an oil change. The guy says I need a new right front axle seal.

    OK its covered under the extended warranty.

    Its due for tires and alignment that was on my radar already anyway.

    Now the shocker. He says I a complete brake job on all 4 wheels. Rotors drums the works. The vehichle has 53K on it.

    OK I could see needing some brake work at that mileage (mostly highway). But having everything re done?

    So is there an inherent issue with the brakes on this vehicle that I don't know about? Is there anything I can do to address or correct his issue so I'm not repeating the complete brake job again a year or 2 down the road?

    Thanks,

    Chris
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I have a '04 Tahoe with 68 000 miles and my brakes, i.e. pads and disks still look like new. My driving is mostly highway meaning about 90% is highway. At 53 k you should not need any brake work yet as you say you drive mostly highway too.

    Do you feel something wrong with brakes when you use them? Have you looked at your brakes yourself?

    --Arrie--
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    ABS brakes sometimes activate when you drive over a small bump on rods and the wheels start bouncing while you apply brakes at the same time.

    Usually this indicates that you need new shocks for your vehicle but in some vehicles, like in a 1500 4x4 Dodge ram that I have, it seems to be a bad design as the new stock shocks don't help.

    --Arrie--
  • jrvalenjrvalen Posts: 2
    Chris,

    Get used to it!!!. My wife's 97 Suburban has about 90k miles on it. The 1st set of pads were toasted along with the rotors with less that 15k miles. The dealer did the 1st change out of the pads/rotors, albeit on our our nickel. By switching to to the new more expensive ceramic pads, we tend to get about 20-25k between pad changes. The rear brakes have been get changed every other time we do the front pads. We were also impacted by the corrosion build-up in the front hubs which cause the ABS system to malfunction. That's an easy fix as well if your vehicle isn't covered with the GM selective recall.

    Hope this puts a little perspective on the issue given the vehicle weighs in at over two tons empty.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • 1999 GMC suburban - front Disk, Rear Drum. Having fairly low breaking pedal (Pedal must be moved down excessively to break). Car has normal break shoes wear?

    I thank you in advance for your advise.
    I am new to this forum. Please advise if this post is in a wrong forum.
  • evilzevilz Posts: 5
    Hi all,
    Is anyone seeing the rear brake pads wearing WAY faster than the fronts? I have a 2003 Tahoe 4WD and I am now on my 3rd set of rear pads and have not touched the fronts.
    My thought is that the proportioning valve is either malfunctioning, or set up incorrectly as I have always been under the impression that most of the braking is done by the front brakes.

    Thanks for any input.

    Erik.
  • I own a 2004 Tahoe Z71 with all the off road equipment installed at the factory.

    Yesterday while out doing a little four wheeling I notice my brakes did not work that well.

    While on a dirt road, going slightly down hill and at the bottom I stepped on my brakes to avoid going through the dip to fast. I was in 4 HI and only going about 10mph. As I applied my brakes to slow down they just pulsated instead of having a steady braking action. They would not allow me to come to a complete stop and had a very hard time trying to slow down. I've drove for many years and have owned several vehicles and even now have another 4 wheel drive Jeep. What happened did not seem right.

    Does anyone know if this is the same problem with the Tahoe Brakes, and if so is this part of the recall to where I could have it corrected?

    Thanks
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    This sounds like your ABS system was working as it is supposed to. In low traction situations the ABS activates easily and can be very disconcerting. You need to remember these are big heavy vehicles and going downhill in the dirt the wheels would lock up easily under braking without ABS.

    A solution when off roading is to lower your tire pressures to 25 PSI or lower and get tires with better off road tread pattern.
  • My questions are sometimes when I step on the brakes the ABS seems to kick in just moments before I come to a full stop. Sometimes it makes a weird noise but normally only when the truck is cold. Anyone else have this problem?

    Second question, I have the push button 4WD and when I engage the 4WD and drive it for 1-2 miles the service 4x4 light comes on but I still have 4WD. But I cannot disengage the 4WD until I turn off the truck for a few minutes then re-start it and it will then dis-engage. Anyone?

    Thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You should take your second question over to Chevy Suburban Transmission Problems.

    tidester, host
  • Howdy!
    I have tried to use various makes of rotors and pads, the braking distance is pathetically long (about double of any other vehicle i have ever driven), yet they all wear out in about 10-15k Mi. The consensus seems that: "they are all like that" & "they have improved on them after 2000 and again 2003" My burb is an ex police Hwy interceptor, I can not imagine how they did high speed chases with non existent brakes. I just heard that you can actually put the master cylinder of a K2500 on these and that is suppose to reduce braking distance. does anyone have any experience with them, or modifying the hydro booster?
    Tnx
    Ty
  • I have a early body 99 GMC suburban and it is factory equipt with front disc rear drums/ I would like to put rear disc on it to improve braking and looks. Can I use a rear setup from a later model 01-06 with 3.73 in the rear. Also I will be changing out the rear end any way so if making the full axle swap would work I would like to go that route. Any tech help out there?
    Thanks
  • I have a 2000 Surburban. Both the ABS and Parking Brake dash lights come on. I have had it in for service and was told the ground wire was faulty. This was corrected but still have the problem. Any suggestions. The shop told me that the next step would be a very expensive ABS control something or other.
  • I am about to get the brake pads on my 2005 Z71 4WD Suburban. Does anyone have any recommendations for brake pads they have been particularly happy with? I currently have OEM and expected them to last more than 19K miles.
  • I have the front passenger side caliper is dragging.
    Drivers side works normal.

    I Try to push the brake pads back and no go.
    I open the bleed and the caliper moves back like normal.

    Pump the brakes back up and drags again not just a little but like you are pushing the brakes

    I can bleed it at the master cylinder fitting and the caliper will push back.

    I have never had one side to the other not working the same,

    Any info would be great.
  • bk777bk777 Posts: 32
    We are using the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads. They are holding up well. Not cheap...but good friction materials and good design. Shims are not needed...as they are with the Delco pads.
  • bk777bk777 Posts: 32
    How many miles are on your odo?
  • mxjeffbmxjeffb Posts: 2
    I worked this out my self.
    The brake hose on the right side had swelled.
    When you pushed the brake the hose would open from the pressure but would not let the fluid return making the pads drag.

    If you think you have this problem pump up the brake and crack open the bleed line.
    The brake fluid leaks and the brake pad stops draging.
    Pump the brake again and crack open the brake line at the top of the hose at the frame.
    If the brake is still dragging then your hose is not letting the fluid back out and making the brake drag.
    The hose has swelled on the in side and is not letting the fluid return.
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