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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

mcelfreshmcelfresh Posts: 1
i have replaced new dist. roto cap,wires, plugs,tsp sensor can get it to start and shut it down and will not restart don't know what else to look for any help??
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Comments

  • dustaymmdustaymm Posts: 1
    When replacing the intake manifold gasket, what setting should the torque wrench be set on to tighten the bolts that pull the intake down on the gasket?
  • jimmy94jimmy94 Posts: 6
    TBI models 36 ftlbs
    CPI models initial torque 35 ftlbs
    CPI models final torque can be up to 41 ftlbs

    tbi you tighten one side then the other

    cpi is tightened in a zigzag patern from the midle

    if you are really concerned get a shop manual, they tell you the order to tighten each
  • I have a 1993 Jimmy. It has been having starting issues. We have heard everything from the fuel injectors needs to be cleaned to replacing the water pump. We have replaced the computer twice, the second time the garage replaced it free. But now it does not start but turns over. We have it in a garage now and first they thought it was the distributor, but have tested the sensors and such and can not find anything wrong with the distributor or computer. When we had the computer put in, I guess the first garage did some sloppy wiring and now another garage said some of the wiring from the distributor to the computer was burned and not covered properly and etc. They have tested the computer to the distributor and have found even though poor wiring it tests out fine. So now they think it is from the computer up through the firewall into the dash board. I understand it could be very costly to follow all the wires out the computer into the dash since their are so many wires? I have asked if it would be better to replace the harness and they seemed to be reluctant since they said that would be more work? We had it in three different garages and no body seems to know what they are doing, can someone give me some idea what we should do? Thanks
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,451
    Try looking through the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

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  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    For 98up Blazers the final lower intake torque is 11 ft lbs reached in 3 steps - any higher will cause other problems. Most shop books give in inch pounds and most of us have ft lb wrenches. Just wanted to document the correct torque for newer Blazers.
  • tashasootashasoo Posts: 1
    Turning the ignition key produces nothing. There is power to all of the dash gauges, but the starter will not engage. This only happens every fourth or fifth time you try to start it. After allowing the car to sit for a while you turn the key and it immediately starts. This is driving me nuts. Any clue what the heck is causing this??
  • I have an identical problem. My 92 S10 Blazer 4.3L V-6 will start initially, but after I shut it off it turns over beautifully but just will not start. The fuel pump runs fine. I see gas in the throttle body. Could it be flooding the TBI that easily and preventing further starts?
    :confuse:
  • autopoorautopoor Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy with a CPFI. The car has been sitting up for a while and will not start. I replaced a bad fuel fuel pump and relay. I am getting fuel up to the injector. Put starter fluid in air intake. Car starts up breifly but does not continue to run. Is there any way to test the injector? I replaced the injectors two years ago at a cost of $265. Don't want to spend money if it is not the injectors.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Check the fuel pressure at the rail test port - only way to know.
  • hey i got a 1993 GMC Jimmy V6..and i was stopin at a light and it just boged out Or stalled out. I had now breaks the whole nine yards..and the truck wouldent start then it would start and run for a few seconds and then stall out again. and that was about it..any ideas wat could be work.

    Thanks
  • Fuel or spark - then possible sensor.
    4.3L engine (not 2.8)
    So, you have to determine that first to begin a fix.
    It turns over/cranks OK so battery is good and starter good.
    1. Do you smell gas in the engine compartment or on the oil dip stick - that could be a leaking CPI and lines (nut kit) under the upper intake so search that.
    2. Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail as I have posted many times.
    3. Check for a spark at the coil or out of dist - use a plug wire and plug, hold the screw in base on a ground, and turn it over and is there a spark. Wear gloves or some non conducting holder or it will zap you and if you have a weak heart do NOT do this.
    4. Last tuneup with a cap/rotor, plugs, wires, PCV. Caps/rotors do fail and seen some internally arc and impossible to detect so change - cheap insurance you aren't fighting that one - my 99 aftermarket cap did this after 1 year so now I buy Delco caps - drove my crazy testing.
    5. Then on to sensors etc such as crank sensor under the front of the engine ($60), ignition module in the dist ($80) in 95 down (on coil 96up), and MAP on intake - but those can be determined with a scan tool ($400 up) that most shops and all dealers have so you can throw parts at it without a scanner or tow it in and take a rest.
  • ran my 1995 GMC JIMMY out of gas now it wont start what can I do.
  • I've noticed lately that whenever I am waiting at a realy long light, or at a drive thru my car seems to all of the sudden stall. Then it takes a few tries to start back up. Had a very embarassing time at the border with that. But it's like it stalls when i'm waiting for a while. And I notice it gets like a wierd shake before it happens. I've brought it to midas and thy say they can't do anything til it stalls, but I don't live there so it's kinda hard. Any idea what this might be? Oh ya, I brought it in for a tuneup a few months ago.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Do you hear the pump at key on before start for 2sec pressurize the system? If no noise hope the pump did not fail. First I would change the fuel filter then try again, then if no start test the fuel pressure to see if the pump still works correctly.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Was the cap and rotor changed and a new fuel filter, air filter and plugs, if not do so. Then test the fuel pressure at the test port (Actron tester is $35) and its a min of 60psi key on engine off (and then it should not drop after key off but a few psi)and then 53 psi running. Then 97 had a lot of strange problems due to the in column ignition switch (really the module in the column not the key but I didn't name it) so thats always possible if random things happen as all power gets switched thru there.
    Then possible coil or sensor so is a SES light on and any code? Lots of options here.
  • Damn. I heard that theres problems with the 97 from a few people...of course only after I bought it. But I am definitely going to look into these. Thanks for the help. I'll let ya know how it goes.
  • I have a 98 jimmy 4x4 4.3 v6 vortec that won't start. My father and I are pretty good at figureing out problems with cars but when it comes to this we are stumped. About 2 months ago i went to a local ihop parked the truck (which was running fine before i got there) shut it off and it sat for maybe 30 to 45 mins. before i came back out to start it and it wanted to start but didn't so i checked for the sound the fuel pump makes when it is working and no sound so i eventually got it started and got home replaced the fuel pump , and fuel filter. well ran good for 2 weeks then died again but now i hear the fuel pump kick on but no start did all the obvious checks and still nothing. No check engine light comes on fuel gauge works fine, although i do remember that when it did run for those 2 weeks it was extremly hard to start like it would crank and turn over but no start for about 15 to 30 secs now i read the messages in here and read the haynes repair manual from front to back and still can't figure it out. thought i would seek help from the web. also could i possibly damaged the starter from attempting to start it so many times?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
    thanks
    nick
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    Check the fuel pressure #1 - 60 psi to start (53 running) and if you did not use a Delco you may have a few problems with pickup and seals. Next is the the state of the last tuneup - plugs, cap/rotor/wires. More details needed.
  • Hello,I just picked up a "92" Jimmy" 4X4 4.3l w/150k Miles. The truck runs great & looks great.I have not been able to get info I am Comfortable with RE: changing my oil & filter.I would appreciate any advice RE: Cap. 4.5Qt or 5Qt, type of oil, Syn.? Oil & Air filter types etc. For now the truck will be used for mostly short trips(under50m)three to four times a week. I will be supervising my young son and I want to get it right!I do not know the location of the pan plug or if it is LH/RH thread.
  • Pick up a Haynes or Chiltons at the auto store or look online at Autozone or Advance auto sites and all info is listed for you. I personally use Valoline MaxLife 5w-30 but all my Blazers are over 100k now. Seen both 4.5 and 5.0 qts loisted and I put in 4.75 with a filter but all mine are 98up with the remote oil cooler lines to the radiator.
  • Hey! Thanks for the reply,I had a computer sys. crash last Sat. and this my first on line since.
  • Well as it turns out your advice RE: Auto Zone was just what I was looking for,Thank You! Today I have a bigger concern. I had to be towed home 3hrs. ago! I was driving @ 35-40mph when my dig.odometer began to flash like a short in the connection,I played with the trip/em/reset buttons with no luck,2-3mi. later the word"error" is on my odometer display! 1/2mi. later chug chug hiss! turns over but will not start,After flat bed gets me home the four wheel drive light wont go out.I cant locate the fuses so I disconnected the battery.Can you help? :confuse:
  • Does this one have the full digital dash - look online for the many rebuilts available as the board can short. Sounds like you blew a hose maybe a heater hose back by the distributor so look for water spray and change the cap/rotor if wet, refill coolant and fix any hose leaks. Could be many things so need more specific info after yoy take a good look underhood. Oh, fuse panel by drivers door on end of dash, some relays on firewall, some behind glove box too.
  • No nothing wet I guess I dont Describe sounds very well.Now that I know fuse/relay locations I can rule them out.I dont know what is ment by full dash.This one has power everything apart from seats,AM/FM/ca.as well.I will be on it today,thanks again!
  • Oh I get it! yes the dash is all digital,no analog devices of any kind. :blush:
  • I checked out the under dash fuses,replaced dash fuse and re seated others,re seated a relay near fuses. I had the battery disconnected all the while turns out when ignition is activated this re boots the computer. Still will not start,also have intermittent interior light on/off with all doors closed.I will remove dash to gain access to computer to look for shorts in the pc board.Have checked all the obvious stuff under the hood.Any more advice?
  • Probably replace the dash with rebuilt - read all the problems with an online search.
  • esb25esb25 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jimmy with a weird starting problem. I have new plugs and wires, changed the distributor cap and rotor ( <6mo's ago), new fuel and air filter and my ignition coil is around 2 years old. I checked the fuel presure in the line, and got 60psi with key on, and 54 with engine on. The car is cranking fine, but takes a long time to start, usually when the car is cold. When the car is warm, it starts no problem and once running (even after it finally starts cold), the car runs fine - no stalling, surging, lack of power etc. When I do get it to start cold, the RPM dips, but then goes back up. The check engine light is off and there is no white or black smoke coming out of the exhaust.

    Anyone got any suggestions? I was wondering if it might have something to do with the ECT sensor, since it starts when it is warm...? Thanks for the help.
  • I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy and it stalled a few times and then just would not start. The indicator lights (Airbag, ABS, etc) also stopped coming on when ignition in "ON" position as soon as this problem started. Fuel pump does not turn on and I checked the fuel pump relay (tried several replacement ones and same prob). One of the pins has volatage (constant) and no juice from the other pins when the ignition is in "ON" position. Jumpered the hot pin with the one for the pump and I can hear it turn on but won't start. Bad ECM or something else?? Any help is GREATLY needed and appreciated! Thanks.
    -Seth
  • I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy, 4.3 CPI, 64k on it. Last tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel and air filters 04/05 or 11k ago. (all ac-delco parts)

    The truck will go into a severe bog at any time or speed and there is no pattern. Sometimes it dies alltogether, sometimes it don't. When it don't it will go to an idle and knock and ping like its not getting fuel reguardless of throttle position. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail it reads 55 psi and will raise slightly when reved. (My gauge hose is not long enough to stick on the cowl and read while driving so all gauge tests are at idle in driveway.) The SES light never comes on at any time when its acting up. Key on engine off pressure 58 psi, engine running 55 psi. When it stalls the psi will jump to 65 then an audible "click" is heard and it then drops back to 55 psi. Most times the engine will restart with a bump of the key. In the 10 minute leakdown test (procedure recommended by Alldata) pressure will decrease to about 30 psi from 58. The engine will bog/stall reguardless of engine temperature. Today while I was on my way home it stalled on the interstate and would not restart. I sat there for over an hour to no avail. Had to have it towed home. When we were taking it off the rollback it started right up. Overall engine performance has been poor, at interstate speeds you have to downshift to accelerate. Fuel milage has been 9 to 10 mpg. Converter was replaced one month ago. According to Alldata, the fuel pressure drop can be either the pressure regulator or "poppets". What are the poppets???

    I was a mechanic until 1995 but left the trade before OBD II came into the scene. If it wasnt Christmas I would take it to a dealer and have them fix it but with two in diapers, the funds aren't there. We are primarily a one car family so any/all suggestions on where to go from here are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
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