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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • Exactly it will crank but not fire. there is no spark getting from the distributor to the spark plugs. We have check and the distributor is turning, we have replaced the rotor bug, distributor cap, coil, ignition module. . . . and now are trying to find the crank sensor so we can change it. . . . . any body know where the heck it is on a 1994 gmc jimmy 4wd vortec v6 4.3L
  • hey any luck? i have same problem word for word
  • I came here looking for answers to a no start problem which occured on my 2000 jimmy as soon as the weather got cold. Like alot of people on here my Jimmy wouldnt start in the cold mornngs.. It cranked just seemed like no fuel was getting to it. I'd either have to use fuel or starting fluid or wait till warmer weather... When it started it ran beautifully and would restart.... Until the next morning.

    Seeing that I live in upstate NY where the weather is cold often I decided to bring it to a local garage. They switched out a fuel pump (300) ... which i knew wasnt the problem.... they also switched some relays.... which didnt fix the problem.......

    The Solution????? Absolutely stupid but it works..... When starting your vehicle... DO NOT just twist the key forward... doing so does something and shuts off the fuel pump or injectors or causes a brain fart somewhere..... No instead slowly baby step your key as you start your jimmy. I know it is stupid sounding I but it works.... You can see the difference on the dashboard lights between the slight turn and the full turn..... It cost me 1200 usd for that answer. Ill end up switching my ignition at some point down the road but for now I can start my car or even not start it anytime i want. Thanks Jim Betit for figuring that one out.

    PS if this works for ya let me know
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,041
    edited December 2011
    Lots of people turn their key to the "on" position before actually cranking their car or truck. They count to 5 or 10 and sometimes they can hear the fuel pump working, pressurizing the system. Then the car usually cranks the first try.

    The theory is that the fuel pressure fades overnight. I usually do this on my non-GM cars in the morning, but don't bother the rest of the day.

    I don't know what normal "fade" is, but a fuel leakdown test might pinpoint where your problem is, especially if this trick is needed more frequently than once a day.
  • no need for the delay.... i jst barely turn the key... once its warm it starts no matter what i do.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,041
    Please let us know if changing out the ignition switch fixes you up.
  • I want to add....by NOT FIXING the problem...for the time being, you have a good anti-theft device! (However, it could get worse, then NEVER start if NOT fixed??)
    I have an isuzu truck..after it warms up, when you try to start it a 2nd time, it'll start, but will stall almost immediately UNLESS, you simply turn the key "off' then "on' very quickly.
    This whole problem started when mice ate the air filter and a piece of air filter paper got lodged in the Mass Air flow (MAF) sensor. i cleaned the sensor, and the truck has had this starting issue ever since. I figured out the "fix', purely by accident!! I won't try to fix it permanently, as my truck is full of irreplaceable tools and i cannot afford to have it stolen!.
  • lexramlexram Posts: 1
    Just bought a 1997 GMC JImmy truck and it died on me twice. I got it jumped and went straight to autozone to get it charged then I waited 1 hour for them to charge it, came back and they said battery was good. I put the battery back in and my alarm went off. I disarmed it got in my car turned the key and it just clicked. I went back into autozone and asked them if they can give me a jump and it worked. It has been about a week and it just died again at the gas station. got a jump again and played with the alarm switch and it started. I got home now it just clicked once and wont start again and my alarm is arming on its own now.. please help i dont know what to do.
  • niecy1niecy1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Gmc jimmy that has a new coil pack fuel pump fuel filter and spugs when i had to replace my fuel pump it started not cranking unless you pumped the gas on it! but then it got to were if u did not start it everyday it would not want to start at all. Right now it will not start at all it had done this last week and the fuel filter was replaced and it started fine after until i went a day without starting it at all.. now the fuel pump and coil pack has been replaced and it still will not start. i really need to know what is wrong with my car. please help
  • ococa1ococa1 Posts: 1
    Jimmy, There is a engine temperature sensor switch on the engine block between the #1 and #2 spark plug (driver side). Two wires, remove the wires and if vehicle starts everytime replace sensor $25 to $35. Do not leave wires pulled off, if you do it will waste a lot of gas. Depending on temperature of engine this sensor send a signal to computer and computer send gas to the intake. Hope this helps.
  • had the same problem on my 98 jimmy, could hook up a battery charger and he would start every time...there is a fuse block under the battery tray, has a 175 fuse in it , clean or replace the fuse block or the fuse whichever it may be...hope this helps....
  • had the same problem out of my 98, spent a small fortune....no luck, hook up a battery charger and it would start everytime, now the fix i found , there is a 175 fuse block under the battery tray, clean or replace it ....fixed mine...hope this helps....
  • 99_jimmy99_jimmy Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    When it is hot outside, I have to drive with the gas cap off. Recent;y with cap off I am vapor locking. This is new.

    When it is hot if i leave the gas cap on the car will vapor lock and a whoosh of air comes out of the gas tank when I open the cap. Gas is also pushed out of the purge valve. I have tried a vented cap same problem.

    I can drive the when it is below 75 degree outside with the gas cap on. Gas mileage is perfect, no pressure when I remove the cap.

    Parts replaced: sparks, rotor + button, wires, all O2 sensors, new fuel tank, pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, evap charcoal canister, evap purge cylinder, and the evap part by the carburetor.

    In the past it has given a p1352 code with the vapor lock condition.
  • Hi,I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy that will start and run for a few.maybe 5 minutes at idle but after a few minutes if you hit the gas it will stall out and will not start back up...If you wait say 1/2 hour to an hour it will start back up but stall again in a few minutes...So far i have replaced the gas tank...The gas pump...The gas filter...The gas pressure regulator and the fuel pump relay but it still does the same thing...Any ideas on what else i could try to get this thing running the way it used to run would be greatly appreciated...Only thing i havent tried is maybe loosening the gas cap...I just thought about that...I'm running out of ideas here...Thank you and have a great day...
    Randy :confuse:
  • I have a 98 GMC Jimmy with a 4.3L V-6. My son was driving it and it died on him while driving. Low and behold, there was water in the oil. It sat in the driveway for about 3 months. I finally got around to getting it in the garage, and replaced the head gaskets. I got it all back together, and it won't start. I've replaced the following items: plugs, wires, Distributor cap, rotor, Crank position sensor, cam position sensor, fuel pump. I have tested the ignition coil, ignition control module, and all fuses. And, oh by the way, I had to rebuild the starter as well. I did get it to start one time, with the gas pedal on the floor, but once it fired up, I let off of the gas, and it died. It hasn't started since, or even acted like it wanted to. I'm at a loss, with the exception of a possible timing chain slip. I really don't want to go there. I have poured a little gas into the throttle body, yet still nothing. When I crank the engine, I do hear a little bit of a "flutter" from the exhaust pipe. I'm at a loss. I do have a 5 gallon can of gas, and a match. Any thoughts?
  • jonnyringjonnyring Posts: 74
    edited January 2013
    Did you get the problem solved?
    I have the exact same issue now with wife's 2000 Jimmy. She over heated it , water in oil, barely runs now. Now I'm persuing head gaskets, BUT....
    If you're gonna replace the head gaskets....you have to send the heads out for warpage & to be pressure tested for internal CRACKS!!
  • Hey I had the same problem three years ago and i replace my head gasket and Fuel pump. That fix the problem. Then two years ago Jimmy did the same again and come to realize we had to cut the Cadillac converts out and when we did you should see how clog it is. Yes the Engine light will stay on but i can look past that. Now we are battling break light switch. Hope this helps. :D
  • Cadillac convert. I know sounds crazy but that happen to my 2000 Jimmy. Stop running and when we cut them out they were so clog know wonder why it wouldn't run.
    :D
  • chevydaddychevydaddy Posts: 4
    edited January 2013
    I did get the problem fixed. I replaced the head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets obviously, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, plugs, wires, rotor, and dist. cap. The problem ended up being that I had it out of time. There are "veins" that run through the dist. cap, and I had it aligned incorrectly. Also, I did NOT send my heads out to have them pressure tested or anything like that. One thing to keep in mind, if you had any kind of coolant in the oil, you need to change the oil pump. I have good oil pressure upon initial startup, but once it warms up a little bit, pressure drops to almost nothing. I am in the process of replacing the oil pump, but I have to do it in my spare time, if there really is such a thing as spare time. Mine is a 4x4 and I have to pull the front differential in order to get the pan out. SUCKS!!!!
  • bryanh83bryanh83 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 jimmy it starts fine but after it runs for a lil bit stats to act up and if i drive it it really acts up between 1500 and 2500 rpm. I've replaced the Distributor and the cap new plugs and wires changed out the mass air flow i even tried and different computer i replaced the fuel pump a few years back really not sure what to try next so any suggestions would be appreciated
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