Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems

2456714

Comments

  • Hey! Thanks for the reply,I had a computer sys. crash last Sat. and this my first on line since.
  • Well as it turns out your advice RE: Auto Zone was just what I was looking for,Thank You! Today I have a bigger concern. I had to be towed home 3hrs. ago! I was driving @ 35-40mph when my dig.odometer began to flash like a short in the connection,I played with the trip/em/reset buttons with no luck,2-3mi. later the word"error" is on my odometer display! 1/2mi. later chug chug hiss! turns over but will not start,After flat bed gets me home the four wheel drive light wont go out.I cant locate the fuses so I disconnected the battery.Can you help? :confuse:
  • Does this one have the full digital dash - look online for the many rebuilts available as the board can short. Sounds like you blew a hose maybe a heater hose back by the distributor so look for water spray and change the cap/rotor if wet, refill coolant and fix any hose leaks. Could be many things so need more specific info after yoy take a good look underhood. Oh, fuse panel by drivers door on end of dash, some relays on firewall, some behind glove box too.
  • No nothing wet I guess I dont Describe sounds very well.Now that I know fuse/relay locations I can rule them out.I dont know what is ment by full dash.This one has power everything apart from seats,AM/FM/ca.as well.I will be on it today,thanks again!
  • Oh I get it! yes the dash is all digital,no analog devices of any kind. :blush:
  • I checked out the under dash fuses,replaced dash fuse and re seated others,re seated a relay near fuses. I had the battery disconnected all the while turns out when ignition is activated this re boots the computer. Still will not start,also have intermittent interior light on/off with all doors closed.I will remove dash to gain access to computer to look for shorts in the pc board.Have checked all the obvious stuff under the hood.Any more advice?
  • Probably replace the dash with rebuilt - read all the problems with an online search.
  • esb25esb25 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jimmy with a weird starting problem. I have new plugs and wires, changed the distributor cap and rotor ( <6mo's ago), new fuel and air filter and my ignition coil is around 2 years old. I checked the fuel presure in the line, and got 60psi with key on, and 54 with engine on. The car is cranking fine, but takes a long time to start, usually when the car is cold. When the car is warm, it starts no problem and once running (even after it finally starts cold), the car runs fine - no stalling, surging, lack of power etc. When I do get it to start cold, the RPM dips, but then goes back up. The check engine light is off and there is no white or black smoke coming out of the exhaust.

    Anyone got any suggestions? I was wondering if it might have something to do with the ECT sensor, since it starts when it is warm...? Thanks for the help.
  • I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy and it stalled a few times and then just would not start. The indicator lights (Airbag, ABS, etc) also stopped coming on when ignition in "ON" position as soon as this problem started. Fuel pump does not turn on and I checked the fuel pump relay (tried several replacement ones and same prob). One of the pins has volatage (constant) and no juice from the other pins when the ignition is in "ON" position. Jumpered the hot pin with the one for the pump and I can hear it turn on but won't start. Bad ECM or something else?? Any help is GREATLY needed and appreciated! Thanks.
    -Seth
  • I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy, 4.3 CPI, 64k on it. Last tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel and air filters 04/05 or 11k ago. (all ac-delco parts)

    The truck will go into a severe bog at any time or speed and there is no pattern. Sometimes it dies alltogether, sometimes it don't. When it don't it will go to an idle and knock and ping like its not getting fuel reguardless of throttle position. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail it reads 55 psi and will raise slightly when reved. (My gauge hose is not long enough to stick on the cowl and read while driving so all gauge tests are at idle in driveway.) The SES light never comes on at any time when its acting up. Key on engine off pressure 58 psi, engine running 55 psi. When it stalls the psi will jump to 65 then an audible "click" is heard and it then drops back to 55 psi. Most times the engine will restart with a bump of the key. In the 10 minute leakdown test (procedure recommended by Alldata) pressure will decrease to about 30 psi from 58. The engine will bog/stall reguardless of engine temperature. Today while I was on my way home it stalled on the interstate and would not restart. I sat there for over an hour to no avail. Had to have it towed home. When we were taking it off the rollback it started right up. Overall engine performance has been poor, at interstate speeds you have to downshift to accelerate. Fuel milage has been 9 to 10 mpg. Converter was replaced one month ago. According to Alldata, the fuel pressure drop can be either the pressure regulator or "poppets". What are the poppets???

    I was a mechanic until 1995 but left the trade before OBD II came into the scene. If it wasnt Christmas I would take it to a dealer and have them fix it but with two in diapers, the funds aren't there. We are primarily a one car family so any/all suggestions on where to go from here are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim
  • Heres an interesting detail. This evening, I was checking a few things. Still no start after the wrecker ride home today. While under the hood I had a thought, I hadn't checked the fuel pressure while cranking the engine over. I had just taken off the air intake tube, the intake temp sensor and mass air sensor were unplugged and cranked the engine to check cranking pressure when it fired right up and began to idle. I quickly looked at the dash and NO SES light. The motor purred like a kitten for about 3 minutes and quit. It started right back up, idled for a few more minutes and quit with no restart. So I guess its gonna be a another wrecker ride to the dealer on tuesday. will update.
  • Try cleaning the MAF sensor with either MAF, electronic or brake cleaner - no residue - so do not use carb cleaner. Said the mileage droped and thats possible. If the temp sensor reads cold all the time then you can be running rich or in cold start mode also explains the mileage drop. When it quits is the fuel pump still running at pressure - relay good? Still have a spark at the plugs so coil/cap/rotor/wires good - check the coil anyway and if you have the old cap/rotor switch them out to rule that out also. Did you get a code when it stopped and if so what was it? There are so many possible things you need those codes to isolate if a sensor or start checking each with the alldata info. Crank sensor, ign module, etc so don't want to start throwing too many parts at it.
  • Will try cleaning MAF, still no SES light when running. Supposed to come on if key on/engine off. Fuel pressure never drops below 55 psi during cranking, engine running, or after engine stalls. To eliminate ignition, last night after it stopped again, I used a small amount of starter fluid in air intake (put it in behind MAF) and it fired. According to Alldata, the only way to test sensors is with scanner. Dont have access to one (still looking to borrow one). Is there a sensor that would cause the ECM to stop sending signal to the injectors if it malfunctioned? Thanks, Jim
  • MY JIMMY STARTED TO MISS AND SURGE REAL BAD. ONCE WOULD NOT START. TOOK IT TO SHOP REPLACE FUEL PUMP. MINUTES AFTERWARD JIMMY STALL OUT WOULD NOT START. THEN STARTED -STALLED AND DID THIS TWICE. MECH FELT IT IS NOT GETTING ENOUGH FUEL. WILL REPLACE FUEL FILTER. HERE IS MY QUESTION.THE MECH WILL DO A COMPLETE TUNE-UP IF NEEDED BUT WHY THE STALL AND NO START. ALSO WAS MISSING-STALLING BADLY AT 50 MPH THEN QUIT. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ABOUT THIS. THANKS
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Should have tested the fuel pressure first to see if it was OK. If this is 4.3 should have the CPI injection and nut kit (lines) that often leaks under the manifold and the way to look at it has been posted many times so search posts. If thats not it and it still does the miss then electrical so cap/rotor/wires/sensors/etc need to be looked at.
  • WHAT DID YOU FIND OUT? LET ME KNOW ASAP SINCE I HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM
  • The dealer charged me 80.00 to check it out. But the found the Mass Airflow sensor to be operating outside of parameters, and that caused the catylic converter to stop up, so I actually had two problems causing it to run the way it was. KUDOS to repairdog, as thats what his first guess was. Hope this helps, Jim
  • I did get my 93 Jimmy fixed. It was wiring that lead to one of the fuel injectors. This wire was red and blue I think and there was no short NOTICEABLE to the naked eye. The wiring was replaced from injector to firewall. Now everthing is fine. It would start, not start, run, miss, stall, chug etc. The actual short I was by the connector on driver's side (top) on engine.
  • Hey i have a 2000 chevy blazer 4x4 and i am having problems with it. It starts and stalls, had bad hesitation at start up when you hit the gas, and horrible gas mileage. Brand new parts:
    -Cap
    -Rotar
    -Plugs
    -Wires
    -Battery
    -Air Filter
    -Gas Filter
    -PCV Valve

    It didnt help. What the hell is wrong with my truck?

    Please help.

    -Eric
  • Check the fuel pressure, clean the MAF sensor, and if any SES light need the codes. Any vac line leaks, engine rattle, or other signs.
Sign In or Register to comment.