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Mazda Protege Idling Issues



  • mike294mike294 Posts: 2
    I own a 95 protege 1.8. I recently got a code for a closed throttle position. on start the cars is idling at 1500 + rpm and very slowly kicks down to 1000rpn, seems to act up on hot days with uncontrolled acceleration. once i put the car in gear it kicks the rpm down to 750 and purrs like a kitten. i pulled the throttle body which was very sticky and cleaned it. the TPS metered fine but i don't know....

    Any help and advice would be great
  • if you got a code reader i dont know why it didnt say that your heat sensor in the airfilter box is bad or that your mass airflow sensor is bad cause i had that problem with mine untill i replaced i dont get the bouncy rpm but i still dont know why i cant accelerate normal. if i baby my throttle from under hood it accelerates up just fine but when i apply a medium to large ammount of acceleration it putters down and sounds like it wants to die and extended pressure on throttle causes a any ideas?
  • I have a mazda protege 1.6 and when I am drivng it loses power and will cut off on me but I am always able to start my car right up. Could it be my fuel pump or fuel filter.
  • Mazda Protege's are supposed to idle at 900 RPM that's normal if it idle's higher then that or lower then that's not good
  • I own a Mazda Protege 2000 just purchased in August, I am having some idling issues, was only idling at 200 and was fine at first I have now replaced, plugs and wires twice, and O2 sensor, the mechanic seems to think it could be my cadillac converter, once they replaced the O2 sensor it started to run worse down to 0rpm all my lights would come on (check engine, my oil light as if the car stalled) and then it will jump up to 2000rpm and jumps my car forward. I have had my car for 5 months and it has been back and forth to the shop since any advice?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Have you had your EGR (Exhaust Gas Release) valve checked? If dirty, it can create a bucking sensation with wild jumps in the RPM.

    This is a known issues with Proteges. Are you dealing with a Mazda garage?

    p.s. The "cadillac converter" is actually a catalytic converter, but cadillac converter has an interesting ring to it.
  • Look for air leaks on the intake side, particularly in the accordian-like hose between the air-cleaner and the intake manifold. Any air leaks at all will screw up idle, while impact while driving will be less noticable.
  • Your Problem is with your alternator. It's been damaged, or is just worn out. Try using a volt meter w/ the engine running at about 2500 rpm. If it's below 13.6 volts, then you're alternator's bad. Change it out by removing the Catalytic Converter, and pulling it out that way, if your Protege' has AC. If it does not, simply unbolt the cruise control, and if needed, the module next to it, and pull your alternator out the top. If your alternator is not the problem, check your air filter, and the coil air intake hose for breaks or leaks. An error in the fuel/air mixture could make the engine "gasp". Also, check and make sure your battery is still good, and if your connection posts and clamps are clear of corrosion. If you have any further problems after trying these steps, visit your local Auto Zone, or contact me at ...

    PS: Try to keep the engine from backfiring. Don't let the engine putter down, let of the gas, and floor it again in an attempt to get it going, because each time you do, the engine will backfire once or twice.
  • This sounds like a vacuum problem. Or another electrical meltdown. Assuming you have power steering, the pump could be draining the engine of power. Not during normal speeds, because the engine is working hard. Check your battery for corossion, and get it replaced or the connections cleaned. If this doesn't work, check to see if either of your belts are loose. If so, tighten them up so about 2 pounds of pressure will bend it in about a half inch. If this still isn't the problem, press the clutch when you make these sharp turns, and give the engine some gas. Just enough to keep it from the chance of further damage until you can figure out what your problem is. Remember, your steering is powered by the engine, so check to make sure it's getting enough air. Giving the engine some gas in those tight turns should solve your problem.
  • A common thing for a protege' to do is to vibrate when in gear. The car's engine was designed with only 92 hp, so the engineers had to put all of it to the ground. The protege' has a strong get up and go, so it will tend to do that. Check under the hood while someone else is in the drivers seat, and listen. Move around to see if you can figure out where the sound is coming from. It is most likely just a loose part, or a piece of road debris.
  • I just recovered from this problem today. Your problem is your alternator. It has been damaged, and needs to be replaced. It's not putting out enough juice to power all your appliances in the car, so cuts corners on important electronics like headlights, and speedometer, and the airbag light will flash. Be very careful, as a flashing airbag light means there is not enough power to deploy them in case of a crash. Replace your alternator, by removing your catalytic converter, if you have AC. If not, undo your cruise control, and the other module below it, and pull your alternator out the top. There is no other way. Also, make sure your battery is good, and your connection post and clamps are free of corrosion and rust.
    Hope this helps.

    PS: Your radio died first because it takes the most power, besides the engine and headlights.
  • There is nothing wrong with your car that I know of. It's running high at first to heat up, so it doesn't die. The engine is designed to idle at 900rpm, so if it drops to that after a few when cold, everything is normal.
  • bnbbnb Posts: 2
    Having problem with code #Pll35 Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering.Put in two new mass air flow sensors and still coming up with same code. Has any one had this problem, and if so how do you fix the problem.
  • giacomodgiacomod Posts: 9
    i own a mazda protege 97 1.5,recently i had so many issue ,i havea thread already in the mazda protege forum,if you read you can understande what i went trough,just to give a follow up,after i had all the inspections done my car first time yhe engine died ,i took back to the meccanic and they replace the battery the egr valve light come on again,i since then replace the egr valve check all the hose and maf aitr filter atc everything seems fine,after i replace the egr valve the car run great,but after few hours i start up again and the car as the symptoms again,actually it gasp ,trottle when take off or stop in gear, the meccanic could not find anything else,but i let the engine run a little and listen where the noise is coming from when i give gas,and that schriekin sound is comin from the alternator.
    my question to you is ;is possible that the alternator is causing the gasping,and drain my battery before?and mabye it was nothing wrong with the egr r valve in the first place. I will have the alternator tested altough the car never as a problem when i ride on highways.
  • check your vacum hose, spray a little at the hose you will see it
  • I have a 96 protege and just recently I was driving and all the sudden the rpm's went all the way into the red. Now when I turn the car on it does the same thing, the rpm's go way over into the red?? Anyone know what this may be?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited June 2010
    driving and all the sudden the rpm's went all the way into the red. Now when I turn the car on it does the same thing

    Could be a few things ... When my EGR valve failed, it caused the car to rev wildly as if it was gasping for air. The EGR valve is part of the emissions control system. You may want to have a diagnostic test done to determine the exact problem.
  • Hello,
    I've similar idling problems to many others; mine is a '96 with 100,000. Mechanic said "Idle air control valve", and also the torn intake air hose (bad engine mounts let the engine shift and it has pulled this hose to pieces). Ordered the hose on ebay; meanwhile, it's taped. Replaced the IAC valve (ebay, also). No change: rough, variable RPM while in gear and stopped, okay when driving or in P or N. Question: manual says resistance on the IAC valve terminals ranges from 1070-1230 ohms; both the old and the ebay replacement measure 880 ohms. Curious that they're both 880 (unless, of course, they're both 100,000 miles old!). Is the manual accurate?
    Thanks, Matt
  • my 96 protege idles at 2300 when starting cold then will drop to 800 after about 1 minute.Is this abnormal.Is the rpm to high at cold starts?
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