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BMW 335i 2007+

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Comments

  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    yep. true.
  • rel1,

    I believe BMW is coming out with a 335Xi (AWD), and I think it's due some time this year.

    Bruce
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    Bruce,

    How was your Xi in the snow, assuming you had the opportunity?

    Regards,
    OW
  • OW,

    My 330Xi is great in the snow, up to a point. Beyond a certain depth of accumulation on the road, then our X3 is better due to higher ground clearance. Until that point, I would rate them as even.

    A couple of weeks ago we were in the X3 on an unplowed road, and the X3 was fine, but I'm pretty sure the 330Xi would not have made it.

    In our area, we have as much trouble with sleet, freezing rain, and ice as we do snow. This is compounded by drivers who panic in winter conditions, and a density of traffic that precludes using normal snow driving experience to avoid problems; e.g., you get stopped on an uphill, and then have to start from a standstill on an incline, rather than maintaining momentum when approaching a hill.

    I think the 330Xi is particualrly good in these conditions. I think AWD is particularly justified in these conditions.

    Bruce
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    Thanks for you insights, Bruce. I find the car rock solid and here in NY State on Feb14th the snow ruts were 5" deep with heavy ICE since it was around 9 Deg. F. and it was no problem getting through. Even on the all-seasons, the traction was superb.

    Regards,
    OW
  • mk0974amk0974a Posts: 8
    Hi guys,

    Been a long time reader of this forum, just picked up a 335 coupe, black sapphire with coral red interior, full optioned with a six speed manual. Love the car so far, only put on 100 miles today but feels ultra quick. Was a little confused though because my sales guy said there was no real break in requirements, but from reading this forum everyone says to take it easy the first 1200 miles? Thanks guys and happy motoring
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Read your manual on the break-in requirements, it is FAR more authoritative than some stupid sales associate. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mk0974amk0974a Posts: 8
    couldn't agree more with you shipo, although i can't imagine how I'm gonna suppress the urge to downshift into second gear on the freeway and let it rip for another 1200 miles... :confuse:
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    Just hold back and think of it like you don't want the parts to fly across the road...you will have given the machine a solid preparation for the fun factor coming soon to a road near you!! Pretend you are behind the pace car for about 1,200 miles but do not stay at a constant RPM!

    Great choice! Drive with all the best heath and safety!

    Regards,
    OW

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Well maybe the salesperson meant that you don't have to baby it, which is true.

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  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    Was watching NGC on how Ferrari builds the 559. They take the car right from the factory to their own circuit and test the car, like they were racing it. Break in, what break in?

    I wouldn't baby the 335, but I would follow owners manual recommendations.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    It's interesting..."break in" is a rather controversial subject, even among engineers, with many theories bandied about. The owner's manuals tend to be very very conservative (for obvious reasons, so that some new owner in his first reveries doesn't redline it out the showroom door) but really, it makes sense that a certain amount of load and stress (within reason) would be a good thing for getting a good wear pattern going. I do break-ins like the motorcycle guys recommend, and I've always been happy with the results....more than pleased.

    Ferraris are, I believe, bench-run pretty much full out before they hit the streets....If the engines don't meet HP on the dyno, out them come for disassembly.

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  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    I respectfully would not compare a Ferrari engine with a BMW engine. The designs are highly different and the procedures for the initialization process would, therefore, vary a great deal.

    A NASCAR engine would need to be "broken-in" at 100% but is designed for low mileage lifespan with huge demands during that life cycle. Hopefully, Toyota gets with the program as they enter the race!! (BTW, why doesn't BMW try NASCAR?)

    I suspect it's all about the warranty and as the tech gets more capable of detecting any "out of warranty" operations in a vehicle, it's going to get bumpy out there!

    Regards,
    OW

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Seems to me that if they want us puttering around in our 335s for the first 1,000 miles they should stop making those BMW commercials with brand new cars redlined and screaming like banshees out of hell through mountain passes...don't you think? All BMW is doing is encouraging our bad behavior! :P

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  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    > (BTW, why doesn't BMW try NASCAR?)

    I think that toyota makes a lot more products that the average nascar fan might buy, and even that move is seen as iffy... I mean, BMW is almost the antithesis of nascar. Handling, luxury, safety, and over-engineering?
  • mk0974amk0974a Posts: 8
    Yeah I couldn't agree with you guys more. Although its always amusing to hear what different sales people have to say about the break in period. I remember I had one Infiniti guy tell me that don't even think about breaking it in lol. But anyhow, i've been trying to think up of excuses to drive somewhere all morning and still haven't come up with anything yet... :mad:. It' interesting to hear you guys talk about varying the RPM, but how do you do that if you are constantly on the highway? Like on my way home yesterday (the dealership was about 70 miles away), I just got in the furthest right lane and put the car in sixth gear and took it easy. Otherwise around my area I try and keep the car at low RPM's as possible.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    Well, yes, you're right but Lexus drops a car and you have to beat gravity...seems like "not reality" as usual with the Ad companies.

    I tend to like the effect from reactions that the kids have in the x-mas present commercial as more effective!

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Well you can do full throttle acceleration runs but only to say 4,000 rpm....and then let the engine coast down from that 4,000 to 2,000 or so...I think a new engine would like that...so you can do this in say 2 or 3 gear....of course, the people behind you will think you're crazy but that might keep them off your tail :P Basically you want to stay out of the orange/red zone for 1K and you don't want to "lug" the engine mercilessly, if you have a manual transmission car.

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  • car111car111 Posts: 24
    Hi
    I like drive of BMW 335 but is there anyway to make softer the gas/brake pedals and steering wheel ?
    Thanks.
  • When will the 2008 models start coming out? Not the convertible, just the coupe; i'm debating buying one for july delivery or waiting to get the '08 depending on timing,

    thanks,
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Short answer, no. Besides, why mess with perfection? If you want a softer car, I suggest you look at an Altima or some such.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Hello, all. Hoping to buy a 335 sedan this spring but wondering, do I really need Sports Package? Mainly use car for commuting -- no vigorous mountain driving. Test drove both 328 and 335 -- loved the acceleration of 335 w/o sports suspension just fine. Thanks!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Short answer, if you liked the way the car felt without the SP, then you don't need it.

    That said, I did the same thing for my first BMW. I drove a 1999 328i sans-SP, liked it, and ordered it. For the first 34 months of my 39 month lease, I loved the car and its handling. Then I swapped my car with another member here at Edmunds for a day and a half, and his car had the SP. I was instantly hooked. A month or two later I went out and ordered the 3ers replacement, a 2002 530i SP to be exact, and I couldn't wait for the least on the 328i to end. It was a good car, but the (relative) lack luster handling was just killing me once I knew what else could be had out there.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tcn2ktcn2k Posts: 277
    I think I ask this question awhile ago on another forum but didn't get a really good answer; so here it is again.

    My 335i has 225 45 R17 all around and the door panel has cold psi as: front 32 rear 38. Can anyone tell me why it's so high for the rear tires recommendations? At tire shops, they normally put in 32 psi all around. I notice they do the same at BMW when I put it in for service. I normally run front 32 rear 35 so wasn't sure why they recommended so high for the rear and the dealer service dept dont' do the recommended.

    My x5 all around are 235 65 R17 and it's recommended psi cold is : front 32 rear 39 and I run it the same: 32 and rear 35's.

    Any opinion?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    The recommended tire pressures for my FWD Acura TL are 32 all around (same size, F&R). But my 911S carries recommendations of 34/42. I thought that was because the rears are larger/lower profile (295/30 vs. 235/35). However, I was told just today when I had it in for service that, under moderate to hard acceleration, the weight shift to the rear tires is significant. The TL is 60/40 front biased, so the rearward shift tends to equalize the weight balance. But the 911 is 38/62 rear biased and under hard acceleration, goes even further to the rear.

    My guess - MBA not an engineer - is that in your 335i, with nearly 50/50 static weight balance, the higher rear tire pressure is to support the rearward weight shift under hard acceleration.

    Any engineers care to set me straight?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,116
    I'm not even close to being an engineer...

    But, I think you have it exactly... Also, under cornering loads, the rear tires seem to shoulder the lion's share of keeping the car on the road.. I think that is why the rear tires wear considerably faster than the fronts...

    Our '03 325i and 05 330Cic were/are the same way..

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  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    There are a few possible reasons that I can think of.

    One is that higher tire pressure is used at the heavier end of the car - like Habitat's 911.

    The other is that lower pressures are used on the tires that "work harder" so that when heated, all pressures equalize.

    Tire pressure can also be increased to deliver better fuel economy by decreasing rolling resistance.

    Tire pressure can be increased to "idiot-proof" the likelihood of underinflation, which can result in tire failure at speed.

    Finally, tweaking tire pressure - front and rear - can change the handling dynamics of the vehicle. For example, increase rear pressure to minimize understeer.

    Bottom line? I haven't a clue!
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,380
    I really hate to throw this in but on my 330xi, the tire pressure recommendation is the same. Assuming the 40/60 rear bias of the xdrive, this just adds more questions.

    Perhaps actualsize or shipo have a clue?

    Regards,
    OW
  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    Based on the fact that the 330xi has the same pressure all around, i *think* the best explanation is that it helps to minimize understeer.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,116
    I don't think he means the recommended pressure is the same all around... I think he means the opposite... That the rear is higher than the front, just the same as the other models...

    Yes... I'm psychic.. :surprise:

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This discussion has been closed.