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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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Comments

  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    Well I have read about fuel leakage with the 4.3 CPI system. If you do some googling on the system I think you will get loads of information. I have a 2.2 my self so can't help much.
  • Since your truck has been sitting for a long time. Hook up a fuel pressure guage and turn the key on, engine off. Look for the pressure bleeding off after the initial prime. If it does, you probably have a leaky fuel injecter. When you first turn your key on, the pressure should go up to about 55 psi to 60 psi and hold there. If you are watching the fuel pressure slowly drop off and bleed down below 55 psi within about the first minut, yup. Leaky injector. Pressure regulators rarely fail on your truck. Good luck!
  • 2000 S10 4.3, 6 cy, auto, 145K. Running great. Problem is clunking/banging noise in right side of cab/wheel well area. Sounds like solid plastic housing banging against another heavy plastic housing. Glove box tight, new shocks, wheel lugs properly tightened, plastic wheel well housing tight, everything tight under front end. Doesn't sound like metal to metal sound. The banging/noise happens each time right front wheel hits a bump/rough spot in road. Mechanic has driven truck using electronic device to pick up noise in vehicles to no avail. The left side is not affected by the noise. Noise actually sounds like it's coming from under the right side of the dash. Haven't had the dash apart-yet.

    Any suggestions?
  • Heater core might be bouncing arround a little. Try wiggling the outlets under the hood on the fire wall side, and see if there is some movement. Also check the blower fan motor, see if the mounting bolts came loose, or if the the plastic fan itself is wobbling on the end of the motor. You got a tuff one, good luck.
  • Thanks, I'll give those a try.
  • mudflaps / splash guards perhaps ?
  • Hello All:

    I just picked up an 84 S-10 Pickup with a 2.8 v6, using the XBX vacuum diagram. The problem I’m having is finding where the Vacuum hose from the vacuum ball and Intake manifold plugs into. None of the dealers has any manuals left for those years. The XBX diagram doesn’t show the Vacuum ball or the vacuum line I need to hook up.
    All the other lines are in their spots.

    If I can put a picture up I will to show you what I’m talking about.

    If any of you have one like mine maybe you can look on yours and see where that line hooks to.

    Thanks,
    JaY
  • Anybody ???????? I thought it went to the Vacuum mod on the transmission but I have the 700-R4 which doesn't have one.

    PLEASE, HELP.........................
  • Well since no one thought it worth his time to try and Help.......................

    I finally found a diagram in a manual that shows this line was to the Vacuum Mod for the Cruise Control. The truck I have doesn't have cruise control in it. I guess some did have it in them.
  • I was driving my 2000 s10 pickup with 200,000on it. I swapped the motor a little while ago, and the new motor has 34,000miles on it. When i was driving it, there was a minor knock on the rear left side, only when i get on it. The oil pressure gauge went from 20-50psi too. The knock only occured from 1500rpms-2200rpms. I think that the oil pick up might be loose, but not sure. Oil level is fine, and has been changed constantly since ive had it. Any Ideas on what might be going on??
  • automatic, changed front actuator valve $130 labor in 10 minutes to change, the 2x4 to 4x4 would not engage, it would stay in 4x4 all the time, whining noise front passengers side, changed valve now 4x4 to 2x4 works, apparently a common s -10 problem but still have front end noise,
    (sounds like heavy tire tread at hi way speed). it's not the tires though
    may have worn parts because of problem with actuator valve. only have 87,000 kms on truck, any suggestions :
  • Timing Chain and tensioner broke on my 1995 S-10 2.2 had the timing chain replaced and now the truck will not start. I checked to make sure the timing chain was lined up right but still will not start.
  • If all that checks out and the engine cranks but still doesn't start, check the compression. Valves may have got bent when the chain broke. Minimum compression is 100 psi on each cyclinder.
  • It all started at a stop lite. The service eng lite came on, started to miss and then died. It started up but was running real rough. Checked codes and said bad egr. Changed the egr, cpi unit as it was leaking, new ac plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor. It runs great at an idle or when your rev it up, but when you put it in reverse or drive it starts to run rough. Take it out of drive and it runs smooth. fuel pressure is good.
    Need help.
  • darb324darb324 Posts: 1
    Having trouble getting my 2000 Sonoma with a 4.3L V6 to start on cold mornings when its around 20 degrees or less. The engine turns over but doesn't seem to fire at all. Not sure if its an electrical/ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem. The fuel pump runs when the key is turned on but am not sure if I should eliminate that as a possibility? It starts and runs fine when the temp outside is above freezing. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
  • ralveyralvey Posts: 1
    Hey guys i have a 1994 chevy s-10 LS extended cab with the CPI 4.3 and select trac 4X4 system. i have many issues with this truck that i need help/advice with.
    1. How hard is it to replace/rebuild the CPI system, what do i need other than the spider injection kit?
    2. Where can i get a new cable for my 4X4 system(from the shift lever to transfercase)
    3. both my windshield washer and intermittent wiper settings have gone. the wipers only run on the "high" setting. they both went at the same time so would that be the switch that has become inoperable?(cruise control still works...)
    4. How hard is it to replace the antennae cable as mine was burned apart due to the exhaust manifold.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated as i need to fix this vehicle asap for my summer work.
    Ross
  • Greetings! My dads 2001 S10 decided to take a mind of its own the other day. All of a sudden out of the blue it started to REV VERY HIGH! I can pretty much put the truck in first gear take my foot off the clutch and hold the brake and it wont stall out. I get three codes when I plug my reader into it. I get P0137 which is on O2 sensor and that is because he has an exhaust leak. I also get P0453 with is the EVAP and i also get P0507 which is Idle air controll system RPM higher than expected. Now between 507 & 453 i get lead back to the EVAP. Is this my problem? can anyone help me out please! We reciently changed out the fuel pump on it. and did plugs and wires. Thats about it.
    And help is appreciated!

    Thanks in advance

    Fred S.
  • acobboldacobbold Posts: 3
    update From message #321, after all was said and done, I changed the actuator valve, the mechanic said that there was moisture in the air line and when it is cold the truck is in 2x4 even in 4x4 after it was fixed !

    I then had to fix front Premium wheel bearings , after pricing 3 different suppliers Canadian Tire was the cheapest except for eBay, which by the way if you order O2 sensors off eBay make sure to ask if they are OEM, one's I bought had to be tampered with in order to fit properly, and no recourse because of the mistake, ask more questions...
    all in all I forked out $686.00, truck runs perfect now YEH!!!!
  • Hi,
    I have a 92 4.3 TBI.... If it's the same hose as i had leaking then broke when i tried to remove it, then i went to hardware store and bought a fitting w/ a nipple and spliced it in. by the way i had to use an easy out/reverse drill bit to get the old zinc type fitting out of the manifold. :sick: Mine was a quick connect fitting hose too... Hope that helps.
    -Eric
  • egummeregummer Posts: 1
    Check into the cadilidace converter.(sorry for spelling weakness).I've had same thing happen and it was a blockage in the exhast.when engine has no presure from trans it can expel the exhast easier but when it is drivin it builds up and bleeds back into the engine causing it to run like crap,draging an anchor,lack of power.
  • gilmiigilmii Posts: 2
    Just picked up this S-10 guy said only problem with it is that it doesn't shut off, you have to pop the clutch then disconnect the battery cause the key won't turn anything off just on. I am thinking that its the ignition switch but the seller said its the linkage is outta wack. Just looking to see it anyone has any info they can lend me or at least point me in the right direction. Thanks Dan
  • xxmjjxxxxmjjxx Posts: 2
    The intake is the TBI setup I think; looks like a carburetor with two direct injectors. If the truck has been sitting the check engine light goes on, but once warmed up it turns off. In park or neutral it idles ok with a bit of a miss, but in gear with brake pedal pressure it idles very rough. The stored codes read MAP sensor, and ESC/Electronic Spark Control. The truck runs great when traveling at any speed, with no hesitation or stumbling. My friend let me install a new MAP Sensor to see if it would help solve the issue, it did not. I also replaced the spark plugs and seen a minor improvement when gapped at .35 (old plugs gapped at .47). Please let me know what logical issues this could be before I go on a spending spree of sensors and what not.
  • glen14glen14 Posts: 2
    Hi Guys. I've seen some very similar issues posted, but just not quite my truck's problem, nor have a seen a definitive answer posted.

    But anyway, I dread it that in hot weather (never a problem in other seasons), I will be at a stop sign or light; I may often hear the engine racing, so to speak - then when I attempt to pull away, I have a complete loss of power. Not a stall, but nothing when I put my feet on the gas pedal.
    It is a nightmare. People honk at me, and I create a hazard. I know from experience what to do: quickly as I can switch off the ignition, and re-start, fiddling with the key (and my steering column often locks). I then get it going, hear the engine race again, and hold clutch at half way, with gas pedal down, and I get out of there. Talk about stressful?

    During these episodes, or prior, I may or may not get engine warning light: "service engine soon." But oil pressure and temperature read normal.

    I should say also that I virtually have no AC in the truck. It's never been great, and I've had it serviced once with little or no long lasting benefit.

    Otherwise, I love the truck, have sunk in a thousand dollars recently into it, between brakes and tires. So I'm inclined to want to get this thing remedied once and for all, but if it means major cash, I might just have to trade it in. Don't feel comfortable selling it privately, with this known problem.

    Any ideas? Someone who drove it mentioned air intake as a source of the issue, but I have no clue.

    And does anyone feel as if I'm better getting myself fixed up with another truck (any good deals out there?). I'm moving to Atlanta in the next month, hotter weather, and I'm at decision point. Would ideally like to keep the truck and not fork out for another - but it might be more hassle and a false economy in light of this horrible issue.

    Any thoughts, greatly appreciated. THANKS.
  • rickb5rickb5 Posts: 1
    Replaced lower manifold gasket, now it won't start, since then, replace fuel pump, coil, and many other parts.
    would like some help. Thanks Rick
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    You need to trouble shoot, have you lost fuel or spark, you need to check it out. Throwing parts at it can get expensive.
    If it ran before you replace the gasket, check all electrical plugs and grounds for proper hook up.
  • rtdmn92rtdmn92 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have been having the same problem with the same truck. If you do get this fixed please let me know what it was. Thanks.
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