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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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Comments

  • egummeregummer Posts: 1
    Check into the cadilidace converter.(sorry for spelling weakness).I've had same thing happen and it was a blockage in the exhast.when engine has no presure from trans it can expel the exhast easier but when it is drivin it builds up and bleeds back into the engine causing it to run like crap,draging an anchor,lack of power.
  • gilmiigilmii Posts: 2
    Just picked up this S-10 guy said only problem with it is that it doesn't shut off, you have to pop the clutch then disconnect the battery cause the key won't turn anything off just on. I am thinking that its the ignition switch but the seller said its the linkage is outta wack. Just looking to see it anyone has any info they can lend me or at least point me in the right direction. Thanks Dan
  • xxmjjxxxxmjjxx Posts: 2
    The intake is the TBI setup I think; looks like a carburetor with two direct injectors. If the truck has been sitting the check engine light goes on, but once warmed up it turns off. In park or neutral it idles ok with a bit of a miss, but in gear with brake pedal pressure it idles very rough. The stored codes read MAP sensor, and ESC/Electronic Spark Control. The truck runs great when traveling at any speed, with no hesitation or stumbling. My friend let me install a new MAP Sensor to see if it would help solve the issue, it did not. I also replaced the spark plugs and seen a minor improvement when gapped at .35 (old plugs gapped at .47). Please let me know what logical issues this could be before I go on a spending spree of sensors and what not.
  • glen14glen14 Posts: 2
    Hi Guys. I've seen some very similar issues posted, but just not quite my truck's problem, nor have a seen a definitive answer posted.

    But anyway, I dread it that in hot weather (never a problem in other seasons), I will be at a stop sign or light; I may often hear the engine racing, so to speak - then when I attempt to pull away, I have a complete loss of power. Not a stall, but nothing when I put my feet on the gas pedal.
    It is a nightmare. People honk at me, and I create a hazard. I know from experience what to do: quickly as I can switch off the ignition, and re-start, fiddling with the key (and my steering column often locks). I then get it going, hear the engine race again, and hold clutch at half way, with gas pedal down, and I get out of there. Talk about stressful?

    During these episodes, or prior, I may or may not get engine warning light: "service engine soon." But oil pressure and temperature read normal.

    I should say also that I virtually have no AC in the truck. It's never been great, and I've had it serviced once with little or no long lasting benefit.

    Otherwise, I love the truck, have sunk in a thousand dollars recently into it, between brakes and tires. So I'm inclined to want to get this thing remedied once and for all, but if it means major cash, I might just have to trade it in. Don't feel comfortable selling it privately, with this known problem.

    Any ideas? Someone who drove it mentioned air intake as a source of the issue, but I have no clue.

    And does anyone feel as if I'm better getting myself fixed up with another truck (any good deals out there?). I'm moving to Atlanta in the next month, hotter weather, and I'm at decision point. Would ideally like to keep the truck and not fork out for another - but it might be more hassle and a false economy in light of this horrible issue.

    Any thoughts, greatly appreciated. THANKS.
  • rickb5rickb5 Posts: 1
    Replaced lower manifold gasket, now it won't start, since then, replace fuel pump, coil, and many other parts.
    would like some help. Thanks Rick
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    You need to trouble shoot, have you lost fuel or spark, you need to check it out. Throwing parts at it can get expensive.
    If it ran before you replace the gasket, check all electrical plugs and grounds for proper hook up.
  • rtdmn92rtdmn92 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have been having the same problem with the same truck. If you do get this fixed please let me know what it was. Thanks.
  • fws4fws4 Posts: 5
    My 98 S10 2.2 2WD lost its drive belt with resultant loss of power steering. My son was driving and was only 3 miles or so from home, so drove it home. In the driveway, it was overheating but not horribly (220-230 on gauge). I did not hear it running, so unsure of taps, clanks, etc. Got new belt and it cranks but it will not start even with starter fluid. Good spark on all 4 plugs. Have fuel pressure of 44-45 psi on the fuel rail. Compression is only 30-40 in front 3 cylinders, 90 in rear cylinder. Comp. improves to about 60 in front 3 after I add a few squirts of oil in the spark plug holes, rear cylinder stays 90-100. All valves & lifters working when I took off the valve cover. Can my timing be thrown by the belt loss, resulting in valve bend/damage? Ran well prior to this, no speedster but dependable. Just rebuilt my wifes jetta after bad timing belt caused valve damage and don't want to do it again on this one. I'm not great at evaluating compression readings, how do you tell if it's valves or rings leaking? Thanks for your help, this site is incredible!

    FWS4
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    From reading your message it got a lot hotter than 230 F, most likely got hot enough to take the temper out of the piston rings.
    The belt runs the water pump, a tow would have been cheaper, sorry.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    Sounds like it got too hot and blew a head gasket. Quick check is to fill cooling system so it is full. With radiator cap off and water to the very top crank the engine over. If water comes flowing out you have combustion gas in your coolong system and either a cracked block or blown head gasket. OOOps!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Addition to my other post, ever since car manufactures came out with aluminum heads they have installed temp gauges, no idiot light. The reason being, overheat a aluminum head and it will crack, just about guarantied.
  • surfnturfsurfnturf Posts: 1
    There is a service bulletin about loose hood hinge bolts causing a clunk.
  • hopkins7hopkins7 Posts: 9
    mickeymouse, thanks for your help. I finally got around to checking out Technical Bulletin 01-08-63-001B through a friend. The cause of my noise was the Hood Hinge on the right side - excessive clearance. Had to install a spring washer. Problem solved.
  • hopkins7hopkins7 Posts: 9
    surfnturf, Thanks for your assistance. I got to the Techincal Bulletin through a friend - Excessive clearance in the Hood Hinge attaching bolt. Inserted spring washer, problem solved.
  • giakamogiakamo Posts: 4
    I am new here ad will try to get to the point. i bought my truck new in 02 and it has only 40k miles on it. my battery died, replaced it with a new one, i am now getting P0304 cylinder 4 misfire ses light is on and idles rough over 30MPH and it flashes. I have replaced spark plugs, to no avail. I then looked at the cap and rotor and they were corroded so I replaced them. ( i thought that would fix it honestly)and I still have the misfire in cylinder 4. very rough idle, stuttering when driving from a stop. once at 50MPH it's smooth as silk. I have put fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank as a preventive measure after this prob started just in case. I am going to try changing out the wires next. anyone have any ideas on this? After the wires, I will have spent 260 dollars on this problem. Thank you for your help
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Can't help you with a 4.3, don't know much about them. I do know if you keep driving with the check engine flashing, it will ruin the cat converter.
  • giakamogiakamo Posts: 4
    No worries there.. i am not driving it at all.. i baby this thing and don't drive a whole lot... ( i have agoraphobia and require meds to just leave the house) warranty ran out in april.. and just want this fix as cheaply as possible. if it's not the wires, then i can't imagine anything else but the fuel system... I am still open to ideas as i haven't had the chance to get to autozone for the wires
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