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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems

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  • s the a easy way or method to getting to the wires and plug to change out? I seem to have a wire going bad on me. The shop changed the plugs after a service engine light can on, the wanted to change the wires, but I wasn't going to pay $200.00 for a set from them. The light went away and seemed to run fine for a couple days. Under a load the engine seems to knock a bit and a slight stall. So any ideas on how to get to the left side wire that you can't even see? lol
  • hello I have a 2002 GMC ZR2 4.3 and i have the same problem. I seem to be going thru coolant but i can't seem to find where its going. I do also have this gurgling sound coming from my heater core area only on acceleration. All fluids are at recomended levels so i don't know what else to try. Ray
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    You might try removing the wheel and going in over the upper A-frame. It worked for me. :)
  • hi i have an oil leak somewhere and i cant find it i changed my valve pan gasket and it still leaking on top of valve cover please help :(
  • Hi, Does anyone here know if I can put an older 4.3 in my 91 GMC Sonoma. I need to replace my motor. I found a 4.3 L out of an 85 that has been rebuilt, just not sure if it will work.

    It seems like any 4.3 L should work, if I just used the long block. With my intake and throttle body.

    I'm new to this truck so not sure what will work.

    Any help will be appreciated. :sick:
  • I am having the same issue. I thought the fuel pump was going bad. Sometimes it would pump and sometimes not, so I replaced the pump, sending unit, and filter. It started up immediately after replacing the parts, but died about 5 miles later. Now it runs for a minute or two, then dies, and will start again if I let it sit (15-30mins). My only idea, is that maybe its not getting a signal from the ECM or maybe a bad relay. Any ideas?
  • I know I'm not the only one with this problem, but still haven't seen a definite solution to this problem in this forum yet! Here's my story: Truck was running great, then it suddenly died. Motor would crank over, but not fire up. Had towed to shop, hooked up to computer and told crank sensor was bad. Changed crank sensor and truck fired up with a bad miss on all cylinders. Checked computer again and said IAC was bad. Replaced that, no difference. Then proceeded to change cap, rotor, plugs, coil, ignition module, cam sensor, cleaned,but not replaced, EGR valve(VERY little carbon build-up plus no trouble code for it). Gave up and took to dealer who said injector's might be clogged and ran a cleaner through it that uses nitrogen to "pop" them clear. NO change. They said #2 and #4 were open, but all others were clogged. Said it be $1,000 to replace injectors. Took truck home and found a place that sent me a complete reconditioned assembly w/new pressure regulator for $219. Then put that one in and still no change. Took back to shop and checked fuel pressure, it was on low end of specs so I replaced that and still no difference. Oxygen sensors appear to work correctly as they are changing readings constantly. I'm at my wits end and do not wish to give up on it as the truck is in excellent shape w/240,000 miles(but only 40,000 on new GM long block that I had installed 2 years ago). Now keep in mind, after I changed the Crank sensor and IAC motor, the only code that shows up is random/multiple cylinder misfire. Anyone Have another idea?
    Messages
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Back in 1999 I bought an 86 Lebaron convertible with the Chrysler 2.2 engine. The owner that I bought the car from replaced the engine with a 2.2 out of an 88 Dodge Shadow. He said the most important thing is to make sure the engine bolt patterns match. Although it's the same 4.3 engine, the bolt patterns may differ between an 85 and a 91. Good luck.
  • I have a 92 S-10 with a 2.8 in it.saturday i pulled it in the garage for a basic tune-up and oil change. changed the oil,distributor cap,rotor,spark plugs,spark plug wires,air filter,fuel filter. went to start it up nothing happened rolled over like crazy but never fired.sunday re-installed all the old stuff that it started with when i pulled it in and nothing, rolls over no fire. so i replaced the coil and now only get yellow spark,any ideas i'm about out of them and the wife wants her car back. :mad:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    had the same problem once with a 350 (similar engine). we finally had to pull distributor and replace pick-up coil.
  • **Update** I haven't totally fixed problem yet but I started checking for wiring problems. Found that both battery cables were severly corroded inside their plastic housings. So I've replaced the cables and the motor is now running much stronger but still has the misfire. Now a new code has come up, crank sensor intermittant.
  • I had the exact same problem with my 91 sonoma, 4cyl - 2.5. I had just tuned it and everything.

    It ended up being a distributor problem - which became a bigger problem with the limited production run of these engines.

    I ended up installing a Multiple Spark Discharge - distributorless spark delivery system.

    Now the truck runs like a dream...a little 4 banger pounding along like a v6 - I recommend the MSD for ANYONE with spark issues in the the older s series trucks.
  • *** Final update *** The problem is now solved. It appears that the crank positon sensor that was replaced directly after problem arose was either the wrong one or was bad. Replaced sensor with new one and truck runs perfectly. This was rather annoying as the no codes alluding to this were seen until EVERY sensor on top of engine was replaced.
  • I have a 1997 Sonoma with 4.3 V-6. I'm getting the SES light and Autozone says there are 2 codes and both say that #3 clyinder is misfiring. My truck worked fine until it sat in my garage for almost a week when it was in the 20's and 30's out every day. I then went to leave for work an now it idles rough, sounds like a hole in my muffler an the SES light is always on. I have replaced the plugs and wires and rest the computer buy still giving same SES codes. One thing I noticed when changing the #3 plu was there was a little oil on it. Has anyone else had this problem? I have read somepeople have had similar problems but not this issue. Can anyone please help? I love my truck and don't want to have major engine problems.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    What are the codes??
  • I think they are 302? I'm not 100% though.
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    I am trying to replace the heater core in my 2000 S-Blazer. I got the dash out and the heater/ventilation unit loose except for what appear to be 2 bolts coming through from the engine side of the firewall at the bottom. I am working from a Haynes manual, but there is no mention of these bolts. If I am right, the only recourse is to depressurize the A/C system & remove the evaporator to get to these 2 bolts. Seems ridiculous to have to do this to replace a heater core.

    Looking for any help or advice that might be out there.

    Thanks
  • elfeoelfeo Posts: 1
    Dear thebigal,
    Sounds like you might have a 99 cent problem. Remove your distributor cap and peek behind at the base of the distributor to see if oil is seeping from there. You might have to use a small mirror and flashlight to look back there. If so remove your distributor (make sure and turn crank to TDC and mark direction of rotor before removing) and replace the rubber O-ring on the distributor housing. This O-ring will cost about 99 cents at your local auto parts shop. Bring the distributor with you to the parts shop so they can match up the right O-ring. They usually carry an assortment of different sizes. I had a similar problem recently on my '93 Sonoma (2.8 V6) and was relieved to find out it wasn't the rear main seal. Hope this helps you out.
    Sincerely,
    elfeo
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