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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Noise and Vibration



  • gavinhgavinh Posts: 3
    i have the same problem as you,any luck fixing it?
  • It seems we may have the same problem, with no solution in sight. I have a 2006 1500 Z-71 4x4. When I hit my breaks and/or railroad tracks at any speed, I feel a slight vibration underfoot and in the steering wheel and quickly moves through the whole vehicle growing in intensity until the front-end tires are bouncing off the road and you feel like at any minute you could fly off the road. While you're in this bouncing around, I slow down to 25 to 30 mph to get it to stop. I've replaced front rotors and breaks, rear drums and breaks. I have 20 inch rims: they're 275-55-20 Perrelli Scorpions with "road force balancing." It's got 60,000 miles on it. It is at a point now that I am afriad to have my wife drive my truck because of what could happen. Fortunately, I still have warranty left, just a little concerned they will think I am crazy. Feel free to share ANY information, good or bad, that I can use to correct the problem.
  • gmcman815gmcman815 Posts: 2
    The truck is a 2006 5.3L single cab Z71 with 60,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago I noticed a rattling/tinging metallic sound coming from the front left wheel area while driving at low speeds. 2 weeks ago I was driving at 50mph and a loud rubbing/grinding noise started coming from the same area. Almost sounded like the tire was rubbing the fender. The noise comes and goes. It will drive fine for a couple of days and then the noise comes again. It sometimes sounds worse than others. It does it at all speeds. I have carried it to the dealer 2 times and the truck wasnt making the noise when I got there. They say they can't work on it if it isn't doing something major. Applying brakes does not affect the noise. Sometimes it sounds like the whole front drivetrain is about to lock up. The noise sounds like it is in sync with 1/2 of a wheel rotation. I am not comfortable with driving the truck when it does this. My first thought would be a wheel bearing, but wouldnt a bad bearing cause the noise to happen all the time? Any help is appreciated.
  • gmcman815gmcman815 Posts: 2
    My truck just started acting up again. It made a loud squalling sound from the left front wheel....sounds like brake pads are worn out now. But it is definitely in the brakes. I am going to replace pads next week and see what happens.
  • I just purchased a 2004 Sierra Club Cab, seems like a nice truck however I have a clunking sound during auto shift from 1st to 2nd etc, also on take off. Repair shop states no problem found, anyone with similar problem??Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Driveline - Bump/Clunk/Squawking Noises

    Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B

    Date: January 05, 2005


    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke)



    This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).


    Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.


    A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

    Diagnostic Tips

    There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:

    ^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft

    ^ Knock or Clunk Noise

    ^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)

    ^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001

    ^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042

    ^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028


    Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

    Follow the service procedure below.

    1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

    2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

    Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.

    3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.

    4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.

    5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

    Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.

    6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

    Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.

    7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.

    8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.

    9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.

    10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.

    11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.

    12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.

    13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.

    14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.

    15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.

    16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.

    17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.

    18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.

    19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.

    20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.

    21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.

    22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.

    23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.

    24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.

    Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.

    25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.

    26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.

    27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.

    28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.

    29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

    30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.

    31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.

    32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.


    Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft).

    33. Lower the vehicle
    Parts Information

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
  • I just got a 2003 Chevy 2500HD LT that is in near new condition (30,000 miles) on the way home I started to hear this crackling noise that seems to be from the upper driverside of the windshield.???? The truck has a bug guard and on-star ant. and I'm wondering if that is where the noise is comming from. Could the windshield be loose?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Could the windshield be loose?

    That has been a common problem caused by the bug deflector. Buy some window sealant from Checkers and reseal the windshield.
  • Did you ever find out what this was? I have the exact same problem with my 03 4X4. I've replaced the front wheel bearing assembly and that wasn't it. Any help wil be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Todd
  • I have a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (RWD Ext Cab/5.3 V8) and started to notice a popping noise in the vicinity of the center floorboard hump. The rate of the pop doesn't increase or decrease with the engine RPMs and it doesn't increase or decrease when the truck is in gear, parked, or being driven. I opened the hood to see if the noise could be heard from the engine compartment and I listened from underneath the truck, but did not hear anything. Anyone have the same or similar problem?
  • Looking for a solution. The 2002 Sierra 1500 extended cab drives as if all 4 tires are badly out of balance. The problem begins at approximately 40 mph and felt primarily on the drivers side. So far, every experiment seems to aggravate the problem. We have consulted with a tire company, 5 GM dealerships, GM, and no experiment has helped. Considerable attentiion has be given the wheels, tires, drive shaft, mounts, and barrings. GM recommends replacement body mounts and if that doesn't work, then replace the drive shaft. GM does not know how to correct the problem. Has anyone found a solution to this problem which seems to be characteristic of this GM truck?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    A couple of questions:

    -2 or 4wd?
    -When did this start?
    -Some of the dealerships have a vibration tracking device. Costs about $2500 so not all of them have it. Has this been used at any of the 5 dealerships?
  • Thanks for your questions.
    2 wd.
    Problem started several months ago and has gotton progressively worse.
    Yes, has been checked on 2 different machines-nothing found.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Vibrations are almost always wheel/tire related. Have you had the wheels balanced using a Hunter GSP9700? If not you can find one near you here:

    Hunter GSP 9700

    Most harmonic vibrations start at around 50-55 mph. The fact that yours start at 40 is unusual. The only thing that happens at that mph is the torque converter locks up at 39 mph and driving at that speed had generated some amount of complaints as the engine tends to lug which might be associated with a type of vibration. Not sure if this would be the case as you've had the truck for awhile and would've noticed this sooner if it was a problem.

    Was anything replaced on the truck prior to this happening?
  • No, nothing had been done to the truck prior to the development of this problem.
  • 2007 silverado
    Had it 12 months bought new 5.3L auto. Been in shop 8 times for vibration and noise problems at 1500 and 2000 rpm, at 1500 rpm I shift down so I just stay in 8 cyl just to avoid noise.
    Got the runaround at first then they handed me a bulletin #06-06-05-001B that states vibration and noise is normal when engine is in 4 cylinder . I belive thats their new way of repairing problems just write up a bulletin. I was also in for a vibration at 60 mph (noticed mirrors shaking), they replaced tires seems to have worked. Been a Chevy man since first truck in 87 very dissapointed on this one.
  • Was wondering if anyone ever figured out what was making this noise. I have the chirping noise also in my 02 Silverado 1500HD. Changed belt.
  • I bought a 2007 Silverado Z 71, V8 5.3l with fuel management system, crew cab, last year and as soon as I put about 5000 miles on it a vibration started. When I come to a stop and the RPM drops to about 500 there is a vibration and it's not a constant vibration, it's an on and off vibration, at times it's more on than off.
    I read on-line that changin the stock spark plug wire with a Taylor 8 or 10mm wire will help, and at the dealer they told me that if I do that I will void my waranty.
    Has anybody else experienced this problem, or do you know how to fix it?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    The changing of the wires sounds plausible. I'd use Magnecore myself however it's up to you. The stock wires aren't the greatest and you might also want to change the plugs while you're at it.

    As far as the dealer voiding warranty...who did you talk to at the dealership? And would they put that denial in writing? I seriously doubt it. Plugs and wires are consumable items and are covered under the Moss Magnuson Act which prohibits the manufacturer from forcing you to use their products by voiding your warranty.

    Since it seems to be an idle problem, you might also want to check/clean your idle air controller.
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