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Volkswagen Passat Oil Changes & Issues



  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    You should be good to go with a yearly oil change, especially if you use an oil that meets the 503.01 spec (Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Syntec 0W-30) as opposed to the base spec 502.00 oils that are often hydrocracked crude oil.

    Best Regards,
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I agree with Shipo, but I'd make sure that every once in awhile I really ran the thing to get the oil hot for a sustained period of time.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Good call. :shades:

    Best Regards,
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Do it once per year in the fall. The longer you go between changes the more important it is to use synthetic oil.
  • Hi,

    I have VW Passat GLS 2005. It uses synthetic oil. What is the recommended frequency for changing the oil in this car?

    Thank you very much.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Assuming that you don't have the TDI version of the GLS, that means that you have a 1.8T. IIRC, your engine requires an oil change every 5,000 miles, and you MUST use an oil that meets, at the very least, the VW 502.00 oil spec (or better still, the 503.01 oil spec). Not any old synthetic oil will do.

    FWIW, this type of information is most likely spelled out in your Owner's Manual (assuming that you have one).

    Best Regards,
  • alen3alen3 Posts: 12
    I recently purchased a 2000 Passat 1.8T. I heard that they are unreliable but I liked the car and decided to take the chance. So far no problems.. :) What kind of oil should I put in it and how often? Any other advice to make my Passat last longer... very appreciated.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Short answer: Mobil 1 0W-40 or Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

    Long answer: Go back to message 1 of this discussion and read every post. ;)

    Best Regards,
  • alen3alen3 Posts: 12
    ;) ...How do u turn off the ABS warning every time I turn on the car? My brakes work just fine and there seem to be no problem. Is it ok to put regular 87 fuel in the car or should I stick with 91.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "How do u turn off the ABS warning every time I turn on the car?"

    I don't believe that you can. FWIW, most cars with ABS run an ABS diagnostic following startup, and during the diagnostic the ABS light is illuminated.

    "Is it ok to put regular 87 fuel in the car or should I stick with 91."

    Why would you want to? Most tests that I've seen clearly indicate that virtually every car sold in North America that "Recommends" or "Requires" Premium gasoline (the VW/Audi 1.8T included) will drop far enough in fuel economy to actually make fuel cost per mile go UP when using Regular gasoline.

    So, running Regular in your car will:
    - Drop your fuel economy
    - Increase your per mile cost
    - Reduce your available power
    - Force your ingnition system to work overtime to keep the timing retarded enough to prevent your engine from self destructing

    Given those points, most folks consider running Regular fuel in these engines as a "fools economy".

    Best Regards,
  • Any other advice to make my Passat last longer

    If the car has at least 65,000 miles on it, make sure the timing belt has been changed. Since you have a pre-2001.5 model, the water pump on this car is the older aluminum-type which should last at least 150,000+ miles (the water pump on the 2001.5 and later models have a plastic impeller which must be changed every 60,000 - 65,000 miles).

    As long as you use the motor oils Shipo mentioned and use only G12 (red) coolant for the cooling system, you should be fine. Also, if you are parking your car immediately after a high-speed highway run, make sure you idle the car for a couple of minutes so the engine oil can properly cool down the turbo's bearing (preventing an overcooking oil condition called coking - which has the potential to cause serious engine problems).

    Good Luck, and many happy miles...
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    When you change the timing belt, make sure you change to associated parts...tensioner, roller, etc. ECS Tuning sells an Ultimate Timing Belt kit with the following items:
    Timing Belt
    OE Updated Tensioner
    OE Tensioner Roller
    OE Idler Roller
    Camshaft seal
    Crankshaft seal
    Hepu Metal OE Water Pump (half) with gasket
    Behr OE Thermostat with O-ring
    Conti-Tech A/C Belt
    Conti-Tech P/S Belt
    Conti-Tech Alternator Belt
    2) 1.5 Liter bottles of G12 Coolant
  • When you change the timing belt, make sure you change to associated parts...tensioner, roller, etc. ECS Tuning sells an Ultimate Timing Belt kit with the following items:

    As a 25+ year owner/mechanic of VWs including a pair of 2003 1.8Ts with 77,000 and 110,000 miles respectively (not to mention being a VAG-COM owner) - I've already got that covered, chief. The timing belt service was done on both cars at 65,000 with the complete timing belt service kit from - which includes all of the parts you mentioned - especially the Hepu water pump with the metal impeller.

    Been there, done that...
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    My reply was meant for Alen3 - I know you know all about that add'l stuff... :)
  • Sorry - The subject line in the message threw me off.... My bad... :shades:
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Not your bad, but mine. I shoulda slid back to reply to the correct post...
  • No worries...we all have our moments from time to time... :shades:
  • Hi, I have a black 1997 Passat GLX sedan, 6 cylindar. I bought this car six months ago from the local VW mechanic. When i bought the car it shifted a little bit hard, but other than that, no problems. The person who owed the vehicle before me had put around 2 grand into the transmission, it would not work right. She had taken it to the VW Dealership in State College, PA, and got tired of throwing money into the car and sold it to the guy i bought it off of. He put a new transmission in it, and fixed a few other things before selling it to me.
    Now soon after I bought it, my car began slipping gears. It got so bad I had to shift manually. It was never in the right gear, sometimes it would pull out of an interesection in 3rd gear and just dog along. I discovered the only way to make my car run correctly, was to floor it. As odd as that sounds, every time I floored my car it stopped slipping gears, stopped slamming into gears, and ran fine. I no longer had to manually shift it. So i thought I was alright.
    Well about a week ago my car started doing something else. It stopping shifting right altogether. It wouldn't go out of first gear until (according to the RPM gage on the dashboard) it hit bewteen 40 RPM's and 45 RPM's. But it has quit slipping gears. Then between 2nd and 3rd gear, it wouldn't shift until it hit around 50 RPM's. Even then it was sometimes a fight to get it into 3rd. The ONLY way to get it to shift is - you guessed it - flooring it. Once I did that it would go into the right gear, and not mess up, and continually shift correctly until I stopped the vehicle.
    Now the computer in my vehicle was thinking that every time I hit the gas on my car, that I was flooring it. When I actually did put the pedal to the medal it seemed to override that and run properly. It got continually confused, sometimes on my dashboard all the gears would highlight like my car didn't know what gear it was in. Also, when i pulled out from places or headed uphill, it would jerk forward and back for a few seconds until I floored it. It was explained to me that this computer thought I was hitting the brake and gas at the same time to cause that effect. Now my mechanic has replaced this computer, which resolved some of the problems, but my car is still not sure what gear to go in or what gear it is in.

    Also my car is suffering from a mystery oil loss. I have to add about a quart every 2 ro 3 weeks. It is not burning any (nothing coming from the exhaust except in extreeme cold weather) and not dripping anything (I keep a close eye on it and have had my mechanic take a look at a few times).
    It has stumped me and everyone else I know.

    Has anyone else had this problem or one similiar to it? Or perhaps know what could be wrong? I appreciate any response!
  • I have a 2006 Passat 3.6 that, for now, the oil changes are being done at the dealer. I am tired of paying $80 for it. Yesterday I went to the dealer and got a filter and 7 quarts of oil. They use Castrol Syntec SAE 5W-40 that has "specially formulated to meet the needs of BMW, Mercedes-Benz, and Volkswagen." On the back it has VW502 00 and 505 00 as well as standards for Mercedes-Benz and BMW. Also states "Offers full synthetic performance specifically to meet the Volkswagen engine warranty requirements, including testing in VW TDI engines." At $6.44 a quart at the dealer I hope to find a better price.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    What specs must you meet with the 3.6 engine? You might want to investigate whether Mobil 1 Euro formula (0w-40) fits your needs. It will definitely be less expensive than the dealer's Syntec at regular prices and even moreso when on sale (although that seems to occur more rarely these days).

    0w-40 Quick Facts

    0w-40 Product Data Sheet
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