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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe Autoride Suspension

Does anyone have any feedback good or bad, on the autoride suspension. Is it squirrely on the road? Is it worth the expense when you have to replace the shocks and autoride parts? I have heard it is $600 a piece????
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Comments

  • jvettejvette Posts: 70
    I have a 2006 Tahoe with Autoride. If you pull a trailer that will pull the rear of your tahoe down when you put it on the hitch it is worth it. I only have a small utility trailer so its really no big deal. The ride with out a trailer is no different than any other tahoe. Waste of money unless you have a big boat or heavy travel trailer.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I've had the auto-ride on an '01 Denali, and '05 Denali, and now on my '07 Escadade. I also pull a 4500 lb boat/trailer combo, with about 350 lbs on the tongue. It is definetly a good solution in my case. I previously had a '96 suburban, that had a regular 1500 suspension. When we went camping, and really loaded the back up, attached the boat, we looked like we were doing a wheeling down the interstate.

    As far as the auto-ride with regular driving, I can't compare it to anything else. However, most agree it is a superior ride because it adapts to the road quality.

    Dave
  • 06suburban06suburban Posts: 1
    Dave, I have an 06, 3/4 ton Suburban with autoride. I hooked up my boat and the truck droped down 1 inch. My suspention did not do anything. How far down does it have to go down before it will come back up? and how far will it come back up? I have a 3 axle trailer weighing about 6000 with the boat, and I am trying to get the correct height on the toung to keep the trailer level. Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Todd
  • tromblztromblz Posts: 2
    I own a '02 tahoe with the autoride suspension, it started working intermitently, then stopped completely. Well I took it apart and found that it was comletely corroded and full of sand from inside out. Anyone know how this could happen. I have not done any off roading with this vehicle.
  • lee42leelee42lee Posts: 3
    Todd,
    I have a 2001 3/4 ton and I asked the same question on another board. This is the reply I got,

    "There is no load levelling on the 3/4 ton Suburbans--only on the 1/2 tons. Autoride on 3/4 ton is adjustable valving shocks only."

    Seems to me that the 3/4 would need the load leveling more than the 1/2 ton but what do I know.

    Lee
  • magyvermagyver Posts: 3
    $325 a peice but I like it. After 90k still no problems. Also in tow mode, it firms up the suspension a bit. Nice for the twisty roads empty.
  • Has anyone ever had to replace shocks with autoride ? Is there anything available other than monroe shocks ?
  • rock69rock69 Posts: 1
    does anyone know what to check when the rear shocks quit pumping up. it has the autoride suspension,and it normally pumps up everytime i start my truck and especially when i hook up my camper.a few days ago i noticed it wasn't doing anything at all.there's no service light on and all the fuses i found were good.thank you..
  • pnut91pnut91 Posts: 1
    did you ever find out what was wrong with your Denali? I have a Yukon and it has the same problem ... the autoride took a vacation about two weeks ago. You can hear the switch coming on but the pump doesn't work :(
  • I too have the same problem. They say that you never have to replace these shocks, but my ride is horrible. Particulary the front. I dont want to spend the money. Can the autoride be disabled and just put on regular shocks??
  • ech1ech1 Posts: 1
    anyone find out what the problem is when the autoride stops lifting. I hear the pump running, but it is not lifting the rear end. I have been towing a 5k trailer and it has been working awesome. I started noticing some problems during my tow from sacramento to baja, but now it doesn't even lift my motorcycle trailer and it seems to be trying to pump whenever I come to a stop. Help.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    Did you check the air lines running from the pump to the shocks? They are just little plastic lines, and on the shock, there is a simple (plastic) washer lock that may have broken. Just look at the rear of each shock, and you'll see the lines.

    Dave
  • Hi,

    I have the same problem happen to my '01. Did you find out what the issue was with your truck?
  • What's up with the autoride. All of a sudden SERVICE RIDE CONTROL reads on my odometer display. Chevrolet dealer says compressor is locked up. Which is fine with me. I never load it up anyway. Is there no way to defeat the system and make the Service Ride Control message go away. Is this a common problem with GM. The dealer says $700 just for the part. Is it possible to get one of a wrecked unit and install it my self(if in fact that's really the problem)?
  • Nope! searching for a used replacement. It appears to be not to be a big deal to replace. Location is back left just beside the spare. You have to unbolt (from the frame) the brace it is cradled in before unplugging connecting wires
  • Hey I found some replacements!!!! I just ordered them from Arnott Inc. The website is www.arnottindustries.com. The phone number is 1-800-251-8993. The have the shocks for the front and back for suburbans with autoride control and they also have the autoride control motor. Its alot cheaper than going to the dealership and these are the origial factory shocks.
  • I installed regular shoks in my ajutoride suburban. 1200 dollars for the set seemed kinda pricey for my family to afford since i dont do much towing in it. after replacing the shocks i got the service autoride light como on, so i got an idea. I took a resistance reading off the old autoride shockswhich was 22.5 ohms. I went to a local electric shop and bought two 22 ohm resisters for a dollar. I got home cut the wire plugs and installed the resister in the circuit and wala it worked. The computer thought it still had the shocks plugged in and the service light came off. i had it like that for a couple of weeks and had no problems as far as burning up anything the resistor doesnt even get a little hot. hope this helps
  • The connector to the top of the shock is the wires you cut? Does the resistor tap into both wires or just the ground wire?
  • What size resistors did you use? I tried 1/4 watt ones and they where fried the next day. I leary about putting bigger ones in because I don't want to fry the system. Did you disconnect anything else? Thanks
  • Love my autoride and worked well with 3200 boat tow. Now that I tow a jet ski, I get the auto ride service light every so often. Don't care if it goes out a ext warrenty will cover it.
  • I am looking into possibly buying a 07 LTZ and have had nightmarish problems with a Lincoln Navigator Air Suspension system. Does anyone know if these are similar systems, do the Tahoes actually have the rubber airbags that will dry rot in about 4 or 5 year? Any help would be appreciatied
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There are frame to suspension sensors, which feedback how far down the frame is sitting down on the suspension. Each shock is an air shock, air-tube connected back to a set of air solenoids, fed by an air pump.

    If the sensor feeds back that a particular corner is low, pump turns on, and that solenoid opens to allow the pump to pump up that shock. If the sensor feeds back that a particular corner is high, that solenoid will open to let some air out.

    I have an 07 LTZ, and although this is not something that I would have ordered if it wasn't included in the package....it's actually quite nice.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    kiawah said: I have an 07 LTZ, and although this is not something that I would have ordered if it wasn't included in the package....it's actually quite nice.
    ____________________________________________________________________
    And you will love it until your warranty is over and the system starts to have problems. Mercedes had the air suspension on their 560SEL series for years and possibly still uses the air ride today for some models. The MB 420/560SEL cars differed in only two ways, both were the big flagship sedan models but the 420SEL had a smaller engine and standard suspension. Every 560SEL eventually has a problem with the air ride...and it is extremely exensive to repair. I have known several 560 owners who had their shop convert the rear suspension to standard and totally remove the air suspension. It was just not worth it in terms of cost.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I've thought about that, which is why I crawled underneath to check out exactly how it worked (and I also have the factory service manuals). When I was originally pricing out, I was wondering why it was such an expensive option if specifically ordered on a lower trim level. I got a good deal on this vehicle with the higher trim level than I wanted with a great price on my old trade, so it didn't matter, it was effectively a freebie..

    I do all the work on our vehicles myself, so it shouldn't be too bad. I know the air shocks are more expensive, and the other parts appear to be easy enough to swap out if required.

    I figure worse case, I can always just override the sensors with a resistor as another poster had previously indicated, and I have a normal suspension...... (the electrical engineer in me taking over).
  • Last year during winter my Autoride system on my 2004 Suburban stopped working. The compressor does not come on after I crank the vehicle. I had changed out the battery about the same time frame. Can someone help me troubleshoot and let me know what to look for? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    First thing I'd check is whether the fuse is okay. Look in the owners manual fro the correct fuse, and meter it out to check that it's okay. No meter, swap it with another fuse of the same amperage. My service manuals are temporarily packed in boxes and moved while the room is getting redone, or I'd look up which fuse it was for you.
  • thanks for your posts. you seem to understand the underlying mechanisms on the Yukon Autoride system. I have an '02 Denali standard body that looks like the ride level sensor thinks the vehicle is going up a slight grade (rear end is 2-3" higher than the front.

    Is there any way to adjust for this back end high position? How about aftermarket replacement shocks with air lift capabilities? GMC wants two arms and four legs for what appears to be simple airshocks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Assuming the problem isn't in the front "not being pumped up enough", then you can adjust the height of the back. On each wheel's suspension component, you'll find a small leverarm that runs between the spring axle, and the vehicle frame. When the vehicle is carrying more weight, it compresses the distance between the frame and the axle, it is sensed by the airride sensor (via that leverarm), which then sends an electrical signal back to the airride pump solenoid to "pump up the pressure".

    If you look at that leverarm, it is adjustable. Make the arm longer, it will in effect cause the vehicle to be raised up. Make the arm shorter, it will lower the vehicle.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Assuming the problem isn't in the front "not being pumped up enough", then you can adjust the height of the back. On each wheel's suspension component, you'll find a small leverarm that runs between the spring axle, and the vehicle frame. When the vehicle is carrying more weight, it compresses the distance between the frame and the axle, it is sensed by the airride sensor (via that leverarm), which then sends an electrical signal back to the airride pump solenoid to "pump up the pressure".

    If you look at that leverarm, it is adjustable. Make the arm longer, it will in effect cause the vehicle to be raised up. Make the arm shorter, it will lower the vehicle.

    This assumes of course, that the rear solenoids are letting air out of the shocks, when the suspension is sitting too high.
  • Thanks Kiawah!

    I'll check it tomorrow morning. The system is fully functional and engages the pump mechanism when I load the trailer hitch. Will let you know what I encounter with adjusting the load arms.

    Eagle
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