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Chevy Suburban and Tahoe Autoride Suspension

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Comments

  • Does any body know what is the part number for the air pump, I have a 2002 sub, or is anybody selling one cheap?
    Thanks
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,322
    We aren't set up for buying and selling on the forums - if you want a used one, try your local auto salvage yard. Maybe craigslist to find someone parting a Suburban out, but that's a long shot. And there's always eBay.

    For part numbers, try RockAuto.com.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • does anyone know if replacing auto ride shocks with standard shocks and disconnecting the pump will affect the air bag sensors?
  • dcloesdcloes Posts: 6
    edited February 2013
    I replaced my compressor and rear shocks in August and that fixed my SRC message on the dash. All was peachy for 5 months. SRC message reappears, call Arnott and they shipped me a new unit. I spoke to Arnott today and the "bad" unit I sent back, both the compressor and solenoid passed their tests, so it appears my problem is a wiring fault.

    Here's what I've tested:

    If I jumper pins 30 and 87 on the ALC Relay socket, compressor runs and the shocks hold air

    Resistance of exhaust solenoid is 18.6 ohms

    I bought a replacement ALC Relay from Autozone and it made no difference. Original relay tests good - can feel and hear click.

    Opened up the dryer and the desicant looks pratically new from rebuild 5 months ago.

    Bench tested exhaust solenoid by jumpering pins F and B (I believe those were the pins) in the 7 Pin plug that attaches the compressor to the truck and I can hear it click.

    Bench tested compressor function by jumpering pins A and G in the 7 pin plug and it kicks on

    Yesterday, paid to have it scanned with Snap On Tech II and tested all the level sensors ... jacking up vehicle you can see the voltage change in a graph real time.

    Code is C0660 which is typically the bad exhaust valve, but apparenlty, I'm in the .01%

    Not sure how to perform these following tests:

    "Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to voltage and an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."

    "Test the control circuit of the exhaust solenoid valve for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems."

    Connector Part Information • 12110751
    • 7-Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (BLK)

    Pin Wire Color Circuit No. Function
    A RED 742 Battery Positive Voltage
    B DK BLU 2249 Real Time Damping Compressor Exhaust Control
    C BLK 407 Low Reference
    D TAN 2252 Leveling Pressure Sensor Signal
    E GRY 416 5 Volt Reference
    F ORN 2440 Battery Positive Voltage
    G BLK 1450 Ground

    My wire colors on my 7 pin pig tail don't match these exactly. I have black, red , dark blue, grey, and then three little wires that run to the connector on the dryer that are orange, yellow, and green ....

    From the Arnott compressor, I did blue to dark blue and white to grey and obviously black to black and red to red. Arnott suggested I swap the blue to gray and white to dark blue as a test. Going to do that, but hoping someone can help with how to perform the 2 tests above with the pins involved?

    I have a voltmeter and a test lamp.
  • Are you sure it was 22 Ohms? I just pulled out my factory shocks, and they measured 2.2 Ohms.
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