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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

Few days ago my wile driving my 1995 S10 2.2 I felt a little hesitation like it was time to change the spark plugs.
Another day wile driving the ENGINE light turn on and few minutes later the car just stop working without any hesitation
just stop and id not want it to start at all.
I check the fuel filter and visually check the gas pump flow and there is plenty of gas moving trough that area. Also check the
sparks and they are all good.
What else can it be? Ah! My mechanic came to see it and told me that the compression was very low and that is why the car will not start.
I have trouble with this because the car was moving so well before the problem
Please help / thanks


  • sjowettsjowett Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 S-10 with a 2.8L V-6 Carb body fuel injection. The vehicle starts every time and will run from a few seconds to sometimes up to 15-20 minutes. Then it just dies like you turned the key off.
    I have replaced the fuel pump, filters, fuel pump relay, done a check of all vacumn lines, checked all electrical connections to the distributor, coil carb etc., to ensure they are properly seated. Now I am at a loss, not sure where to look next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Steve J.
  • kreepin97kreepin97 Posts: 3
    Think it might have jumped timing? It is pooible...
  • ghoundghound Posts: 2
    Recently my truck has began to die when coming back down to idle. In looking at the fuel injection, I can see the injectors stop injecting fuel. After it dies, it is very hard to restart unless it is left alone and cools a bit. If the IAC is unplugged, the engine will run at high idle fine. When plugged back in, the correct idle resumes and it may run a few seconds or a minute before it dies. I am getting fuel to the injectors. Any ideas on what is wrong?
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    My Chevy 1997 S10, 38,000 miles just died. My mechanic said that he charged the battery and put in a new alternator and got it to run just to move it into his garage then it dies again. It is so dead, that none of the lights work, nothing. He thinks it might be an electrical short, but cannot trace it without an electrical diagram/schematic of the starting system. Where can I get a free download of this diagram/schematic? He is stumped and I have no truck? :(
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    My mechanic just called. He found the problem. A wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing and shorted out. It must have been inserted incorrectly to allow it to rub for 9 years before it wore out and shorted out.
  • bronxcatsbronxcats Posts: 4
    :) :) My mechanic found the problem of why my 1997 Chevy s10 died suddenly while driving it.

    He said that the wire going to the ignition switch was rubbing against something and after 9 years of rubbing finally grounded/shorted out the wire.

    This must have been going on for 9 years. Probably never inserted properly at the factory.
  • tsavagetsavage Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 S10 that's doing the same thing as the initial problem. I have replaced the fuel filter (even though I did not think it was a problem) and the problems still exists. When driving sometimes (very sporadically) the engine will just stop running. Every now and then I will receive signs that it's going to stop soon by occasional hesitation. When it does cut off, if I let the vehicle set for about 10 minutes, I am able to restart and drive for sometimes days before the problem happens again. I thought that maybe I have trash in the fuel tank that may be blocking the inlet sometimes but I am not sure. I do not believe the problem is with the ignition system at all. When the vehicle shuts off, I can pour a little fuel in the carburetor and it starts right up; no hesitation and I can drive for an unpredictable amount time again. Please help...
  • mike151mike151 Posts: 3
    i am trying to fix a 1991 chevy s10 pickup for a friend of mine its got the 2.8 v6 and a 5 speed transmission hes had it for about 5 years now has always ran great. within the last year it startede dying when you push in on the clutch but always started back up just fine and ran great while driving. then about a month ago it started dying when idel and sometimes when trying to aelcerte. ive done wires , plugs, disterber cap and roter on it i dident crose any of the wires as i have checked them them. i took the fuel pump out and cleaned the screen and its seems to be working properly. i noticed the wires going to the injectores are melted but are working properly. it seems that the moter got real hot at one time but the owner doesent rember ever over heating it. i checked for oil in the anterfreze and theres now presence of it and looked at the oll its clean to. im not shure were else to look? i was conserding the egr valve but thates my onley sugestone at the momunte. has eany one else had this problem if so please tell me on how to fix it or mady what i can maby try. thank you
  • jdrobjdrob Posts: 3
    Truck wont start. I have spark and fuel. The motor does not sound right.
  • jdrobjdrob Posts: 3
    my s10 wont start. there is spark and fuel i can hear the fuel pump running.
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    For a fast answer, you may want to head over to the "No Start" Problems discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • cpl123cpl123 Posts: 1
    changed fuel pump yesterday,ran fine,today get in and nothing,went and got a new relay still nothing.truck was down the last 3 months till i could afford the big buck gm in yesterday to change pump and started up,now wonder if that was problem. any ideas?
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    I've got a 1995 Sonoma with the 2.2 and it suddenly quit while I was driving on the interstate at about 70 mph. I got it home via AAA and found I had plenty of fuel pump pressure as well as spark. I had ZERO compression and came to the conclusion that I had a broken timing chain.

    Yesterday, I tore it down and my suspicion was correct. The broken chain sat at the bottom of the timing cover. I replaced the set as well as the tensioner.

    I started it up and it ran except it ran terribly. It's like the engine timing is severely retarded. I am suspecting that I am out of time by 180 degrees. My chiltons book did not tell me how to go about replacing a "broken" chain. It only has instructions on how to "replace" a chain which would mean the timing marks would be correct once you got the timing cover off and looked at it. I can't find any information on how to re-establish timing for this engine. It is distributor-less so I am stumped.

    If you are attempting to replace the timing gear/chain set, let me know and I'll send you some tips on what I've learned during the tear down of the front side of this motor.

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I haven't replaced timing chain/gears on a distributerless engines yet but I would guess the computer system would compensate. In your description a couple of things comes to mind. Were the alignment dots on crank gear and cam gear matched up? Also some engines have zero clearance between piston top and valves. In the past I've bent exhaust valves and push rods when the timing chain jumped. You might run a compression check for peace of mind.
    Good luck.
  • chacon64chacon64 Posts: 3
    :sick: Hello:Would you please help me with this,i am re-building a 2.2 lt from my 1995 chevrolet s10,and i don´t know where to find the timing marks?. I bought the truck with a dissembled engine,also i am a mechanic. I live in chile,please send me some of your tips?
    Thank you.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Yes, I did ensure the timing marks on the camshaft gear and crank gear were aligned with the marks that so happen to be on the tensioner itself. Since the post, I have pulled the timing cover off and rechecked that to make sure. Then, for the sake of curiosity to see if I was out of time 180 degrees, I lined up the marks on the gears, then turned the crank one complete turn, which put the cam gear at one half turn OFF the mark, pulled the gear and chain off and realigned the camshaft so my camshaft gear would be properly aligned once again with the crank and reassembled everything. It started up and ran the exact same hell. SO, I ended doing a compression check and found that cylinders 3 and 4 were zero. I called the local chevy dealer and they said that the 2.2 is NOT an interference engine, however, there have been incidences where there have been contact between pistons and valves. I think it was because i was rolling along at 65 mph.
    I just got the head back from the machine shop with a full valve job. They replaced 4 bent valves on cylinders 3 and 4.

    I have never done a timing chain or belt on a distributorless engine. It's weird not being able to see which cylinder my distributor is supposedly firing on.

    Any tips on this?

  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Your timing on the 2.2 according to the Chiltons manual is not adjustable because it is computer controlled. No timing adjustment is necessary or possible.

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255

    Distributor out, crank sensor in, time marches on. Progress takes time to adjust. Remember when we use to get the tack/dwell meter out and fidget with duel points?

    Sounds like your 2.2 is one of those projects that turns into never ending, where one thing leads to another, fun, fun, fun. That's usually my story.

    Were the tops of the pistons and push rods ok? Did the machine shop change out the valve stem seals with new ones while they were in there? I had to replace mine last summer (seals) because it was puffing smoke on start up. I did mine with heads on but its alot simpler if you already have the heads off.

    Good luck.
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