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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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  • i have a 2001 gmc sonoma 4x4 i started having problems with it not idling when i went 2 start it but if u give it a little gas it would fix itself after 5 mins and run fine and wouldnt do it again for months at a time but then it got more frequent.ive put a new fuel pump,fuel filter changed plugs etc but now its started idling very high as well as low sometimes going as high as 2000 rpms .i deliver mail and sit n the middle so cant drive with 2 feet 2 keep it running and if u take your foot off of brake when its idling high it has enough power behind it to actually shift a gear or pull you up a small hill.i put a new idle air control valve on it but it would idle so low it would die everytime i stopped so i took it back off and put the old one back on at the same time i replaced the pcv valve ran fine for 4 days.it feels as if your pushing the gas pedal when it idles so high so i put a new throttle position sensor on it and cleaned the throttle body worked liked a charm for a week and a half but now its back to the same thing .noone can figure it out .also sometimes when it doesnt want to idle @ start up the abs and brake lights come on ,dont know if one has anything to do with the other but if you shut it off and restart the lights will go back out even if its still not idling,If anyone has any ideas PLEASE pass them on Im at a loss and so is everyone else
  • I have this problem with my 1997 s10 4.3L Vortec v6, LS model. Earlier in the week i was pulling into a parking spot at the local wal mart. The engine died on me as I was pulling into the spot. I coasted and put the truck in park and went into the store. Came back out and turned the key and the engine wouldn't start. The fuel guage also was stuck in the far right "F" position. The truck turned over, just wouldn't start. I checked the fuses and fuse #10 had blown. I replaced that fuse with another 20amp and the truck started and off I went. It ran for 20 minutes and I stopped the truck again at a store. When I came out I turned over the key to accessories and I heard the fuse snap and the fuel gauge stopped mid center. I checked and sure enough the fuse had snapped. I replaced it with another 20 amp and it immediately snapped when I turned over the key to accessories. I towed the truck home and dropped the gas tank to replace the fuel pump and sending unit. Though not attached directly to this fuse, the guy at the auto store suggested that could be the issue. After installing the new pump, I turned the key over 12 - 16 times and the fuse never snapped. Was out driving the truck last night (2 days after the pump replacement) and the fuse snapped again. As I was being towed home I heard the #1 fuse (brake lights) snap. Any ides where I can start looking for this problem? The truck has a motor and transmission that have been in place for about 3 years motor and 1 yr trans. I hate to get rid of the truck but it might be time to send it off.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Check the wiring all along the frame, and up by the transmission, there has been chaffing problems.
  • just rebuilt my 2.5 tbi engine for a second time (all internals are operational) replaced the: (distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs)(Throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve,oxygen sensor, temp sending unit,)(fuel pump,fuel injector, fuel filter, air filter)( ECM/ecc) So that leaves the: EGR, EGR solenoid, pcv valve, manifold absolute pressure solenoid, to be replaced. During my first rebuild I had the block re-bored to .06 (.60) over. During inspection I had noticed that the throttle cable had .75 of an inch of play between the pedal linkage to cable stop head, also there is a slow return within the cable assembly. Before I adjust the factory set idle, I would like to know whether anyone has SOLVED the problem.
    Thanks for your time
  • as the other guy said check for chaffing, as for your brake light fuse, check all bulbs at the juncture between glass of bulb and socket, if glue is busted they will short out intermittently. Do Not Hard wire anything that you may think to be shorting out, you will start a fire. Also as for staling while parking, check the valve between the brake booster and oil cover if bad it will rob hp and rpms causing stalling during braking.
  • i have '97 s-10 pickup truck, 4.3 liter 4x4 automatic transmission and recently i have been having issues with the engine stalling. so every 1st time that i start the truck, the engine will stall out either instantly or within a few minutes. after i restart it for the second time, it seems to work properly. any ideas on what my problem might be?
  • Ok .my 2000 s10 4.3l starts right up ,as im taking off it shokes up for the next 20 to 40 seconds then runs fine ,if i let it run for a couple min before taking off have no problem..Put in new fuel pump,filter ,spider,dist rotor and cap .Anyone with same problem? please help....
  • I would check the "Crankshaft position sensor" I had the exact same problem on a 97 Chevy Cavalier, changed the sensor after 5 days of trying to find out whats wrong with it, and it ran fine for years after that!
  • Crankshaft position sensor, usually dies the engine once it gets up to normal running temp, once it cools down, it fires back up with no problem, untill it gets hot again.
  • scottlknscottlkn Posts: 1
    Ok, I have a chevy 2000 s10 2.2. Engine was rebuilt a couple years ago and has 40,000 miles on rebuild. Its idles fine and cranks fine. When its cold it seems to run ok but when it gets warm and you start off from a stop the engine will start to bog down,skip,jump,pop and backfire but if I push the peddle to the floor it will straighten out and run. It seems to happen around the 2500 to3500 rpm mark. It is a 5 speed so it is hard to drive. As long as the rpm,s are high it doesnt happen. Sometimes it runs great no problems what so ever. I have replaced feul pump and filter. Air fiter and tried varios types of injector cleaner and run several gallons of race fuel threw it. The mechanics dont seem to know whats wrong with it and just want to replace this and that and I cant afford that. Anyone have any ideas.. Thanks
  • hugh8jamhugh8jam Posts: 1
    Every time the outside temperature is above 75 and the humidity is up, the truck runs very rough. Sometimes, when I put it in gear and press the pedal, it won't move. Just sits there and sputters. When it does run, enough to get me home, I can floor the pedal and it will just sputter and pop and slow down to a crawl until I let off the pedal and depress it gingerly. We've replaced just about everything but nothing will solve the problem. Even the GMC dealership couldn't do it. They told me to have the catalytic converter cut out. :confuse:
  • jzm9790jzm9790 Posts: 1
    So I just bought this s10 for 800$ with 168kmiles on it the oil was leaking bad, I have that problem fixed but now when I drive it when ever its idling it's weak, there are pauses in the idle. When ever I come to a stop or take my foot off the acceloration it dies. Most every time, any got some ideas on this old hunk of metal
  • My 2003 S10 has been giving me issues when i get near a half a tank of gas. It's quit on me on the highway, as far as I can recall always on in incline. Today it started with this with 3/4 of a tank of gas. If I roll to a decline and turn the key, it starts right up. Originally i thought the fuel gage might have been the problem, but when I add gas, its consistent with what the gage shows. I would think if the fuel pump was toast that it just wouldn't start, but i read something a couple of weeks ago that suggested they can get "weak" Any opinions?
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    If the pump assembly is like the ones on the 95 model, I'd bet that the hose connections in the tank that goes from the pump to your fuel line is either loose or cracked or something to the effect that it's sucking air when it's not submerged in the fuel. That would explain your half-tank dying issue, especially on an incline.
    My problem was a weak fuel pump on my 95 that after driving a few miles, would drop in pressure, eventually stalling out the vehicle. It would idle all day long but when pressing the accellerator, would slowly decrease pressure while driving. I would pull over and it would start immediately and run for another 2 or 3 miles then die again, sounding like it ran out of fuel. I put an in-line pressure gage, between the fuel filter and engine with a long enough hose so I could duct tape the gage to the drivers window and monitor the pressure as I drove. I could see the pressure drop off and eventually get to zero when it would die. Idling was fine with full 30 or so PSI of pressure but when the engine demanded fuel during accelleration, it would drop off. Weak fuel pump.

    I would make sure your connections in the tank are good first of all and if they are good where you are sure it's not sucking air from inside the tank, I'd change the pump. A GM mechanic told me that those pumps need to stay cooler than most by keeping at least a half tank of fuel in it to help the pump from heating up and prematurely dying before it's time.

    I crawled under the truck and pulled the bed bolts (6 each), disconnected the fuel spout from the bed and just slid the bed out of the way to gain access to the top of the fuel tank so I wouldn't have to drain the fuel and drop the tank to work on the pump. Not a very hard job for a tinkerer like me.
    Good luck!
    vi-kan
  • fishwandafishwanda Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    After searcing for answer to this problem myself. IT'S THE COIL!!!!!! I put in a 400 fuel pump, fuel filter and $400 cat converter and the problem was a $35 part!!!! Runs like a dream!
    My Chevy s100 2001 acted like it was out of gas. It would die while going down the road. I could put it in N and it would start back up. It started getting worse but bucking and stalling when turning corners. Finally it would go about 5 miles and die and just wouldn't start. I had top mechanics looking for the problem and an OLD shade tree mechanic fixed it in 5 minutes! The coil is locted right on top.
  • abe_e_wabe_e_w Posts: 2
    my 2000 chevy s-10 is dying when i go down the road like its not getting gas.. i can put it in neutral and start it right back up and it'll be fine for a little longer
  • rputricrputric Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chevy S 10 V6 that my father gave me with 80,000 miles on it, The truck sat for 6 months.It starts fine but once it warms up the engine runs very rough, It uses a lot of gas.. I have had it to the mechanic, had a tune up, I changed the mass air flow sensor but still the same..any ideas ? I have had great luck with this forum with my Ford Diesel, Any input would be appreciated!!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    There has been issues with fuel hoses leaking under the intake plenum, not sure yours has them, check it out. 4 cyl man myself.
  • Im 90% sure its a fuel injection problem. Fuel injector. SES code: p030x ? Those trucks have a "spider injector" system that gets clogged up. I changed mine and it ran like a champ after. Its an expensive fix, but i did everything you did and had no results.
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