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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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Comments

  • rosymrosym Posts: 3
    try a fuel filter or you got a bad rotor.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I've got the same problem on my 92 4.3Z. I thought it was a relay problem and changed it to no avail. It doesn't seem to be getting any signal from the ECM. If you find the Rx for yours let us know.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    hoodlatch,

    I took the head in and got a valve job as well as replaced 4 valves (on cylinder positions 3 & 4). No bent pushrods and the pistons were barely touched although you could see where the contact was made. The bent valves on the intake side were visible with the naked eye while still mounted in the head but the exhaust valves that were bent was so slight, you could only see it when the valves were out and on the bench. Cost: $278 at the local NAPA machine shop which I've used before.

    I'm still hesistant on the whether or not I should have the number 1 piston at TDC when my timing marks on the crank and camgear are aligned properly. If no timing adjustment is possible, doesn't it make sense to just line up the gears and let her run? I'm thinking that the crank sensor is what compensates for the advance/retard on the timing.

    I do remember messing with tach and dwell meters with the old point ignitions. I also remember sync'ing carbs every weekend as well....don't miss it!

    My sonoma HAS been an ongoing project. I've got but a few pages left in the manual that hasn't been touched. The brightest side to this vehicle is 1) handy little truck 2)excellent gas mileage....and 3.... well ...two out of three isn't bad huh? hahaha...

    I'm looking at a 2001 Nissan Frontier as a primary driver now and will keep the SON-O-MA Bleep as a spare. Sad...yes I know.

    thanks for the input!
    vi-kan
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Looks to me you're on top of your game with your Sonoma project. The procedure you described is the way I would go about it also. I'm not a 2.2 engineer but I would have to assume timing is orientated around #1 cylinder. Therefore, my assumption would be, with timing dots on cam and crank coming in alignment at the same time #1 is coming up on compression (TDC)then you got it nailed. Being a shade tree mechanic I haven't gotten into any exotic machinery yet like Variable Valve Timing and Lift but the 2.2 seems fairly basic. Maybe someone else out there in edmunds.com land can answer that one for us.

    My 92 S-10 is also an ongoing project. Like you said they're handy to have for occasional chores and putzen around. At present I'm going round and round with the fuel pump relay signal from ECM. The pump works fine, the relay works fine (new), but no voltage from the ECM. I took the ECM out of the dash and fondled and caressed it for awhile. I even removed & plugged back in it's removable chip. After determining there wasn't anything I could do to make it feel better I put the ECM back. What's bizarre is when I jump the relay to activate the pump, I then get signal voltage from the ECM. I'm at the point now to where I'm going to install a toggle switch and indicator light in the dash until the real problem surfaces. The truck runs good when I jump the relay.

    My son had a 03 Frontier with turbo. He liked the power but had poor fuel mileage. He traded for 05 Frontier 4dr, 4.0L, 6sp manual. He said it gets 25mpg on hiway and plenty of zip.

    Good luck &
    Keep' em Trucking
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hi Hoodlatch,

    Well, I finally got my Sonoma up and running on sunday. I stuck with the game plan and it worked. That thing runs quieter now than when I first bought it used. I'm happy with the outcome but am still purchasing the 2001 4 cyl frontier for a mere 9K @ 55K miles. You know, after looking back at it, it wasn't a very hard job. There were a few things I would have done differently but that's in the category of poor planning for me. Like bolting the EGR valve and plate to the head BEFORE I installed the head. Also, I'd surely bolt up the fuel line that connects to the rack towards the back of the head also. Those were the two most things that made me say bad words. hahah.. Well, it's all done now and I'm glad. I did set the #1 piston to compression stroke and once again, checked the timing marks on the crank and cam gear to ensure they were right. Fired up with no problem.

    You talk about your fuel pump on the 92. Well, I had a very weird encounter with mine on this same truck. About a year ago, I'd be driving and it would suddenly lose power where it would only idle. I immediately thought my fuel pump (in tank) quit. However, If I shut off the engine and restarted it, it ran fine for another couple miles and do the same thing. So, I shut it down, turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump prime up. I sounded fine. Then I thought to change the fuel filter thinking a big piece of something might be making its way up to the filter to block the passage of fuel and when I shut it down, it floated away far enough for it to pass fuel once again. Keep in mind, I had an 88 S-10 blazer that had a fuel pump quit on me. So, I figured if the fuel pump ran, it was fine. I was under the impression that the in tank pump either runs or it doesn't run at all. Wrong. I finally tapped into the fuel line by using a T fitting just after the fuel filter so I could eliminate that possibility as well and duct taped a pressure gage to my drivers side window. Lo and behold, when I lost power, the gage would be steadily dropping to zero. I'd pull over, shut it off and restart and shazam! The pressure gage would read 40 lbs or so of pressure once again. I changed the in tank pump and all it's attachments that were hooked to it while it sits in the tank and all was well. So, I learned that those in tank pumps can get weak / hot / and sort of work and not necessarily just quit altogether. That one threw me for a loop. To change it was pretty simple. I unbolted the bed, disconnected a few wires and semi spun the bed to gain access to the tank, then pulled out the old pump and put in the new. Pretty simple. Later on, I talked to one of the chevrolet mechanics and he told me that the best policy is to keep a half tank of fuel in it to help with the cooling of the pump. So, I pretty much do if I can help it. It's better to see a 15 or 20 dollar tab at the pump nowadays anyway instead of the 30 to 40 dollar tab it takes to fill up. hahah... Makes ME feel better anyway.

    Thanks for the responses. Let me know how your fuel problem comes out. I'm curious to hear what happens.

    Good luck!
  • punky0711punky0711 Posts: 1
    Did anyone reply back to you? my truck is the same year same motor and is doing the same thing! I cant figure it out either.
  • mike151mike151 Posts: 3
    no one has replyed to my dying problem, but the other day i was working on it and i was trying to start it now the fuel pump is out so im gonna replace it and see what that does, besides that im at a compleate lost. but i have one more ideah im gonna try after i get it started again i have a 94 subaru loyal that dies when i push in on the clutch and the problem with it is that there is a wire harness down by the clutch peadle that my foot touched every time i shifted witch cause it to get a short in it so im thanking maby it might have the same problem so you could try there on your truck and see what you find.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Vikan,

    Got my S-10 running again. It purrs like a kitten. As it turns out it was like you said, the fuel pump. I too thought that with electric fuel pumps they either worked or didn't, like a light bulb. That's what threw me for a loop. Well, it's all behind me now. On to bigger and better things. A side note; if I had it to do over again I would have went about it the way you did by detaching the bed and sliding it out of the way. I used the procedure outlined in the book and dropped the fuel tank from the bottom. That was a wooly booger to deal with, but I persevered. I believe that to be a successful DIY'er sometimes you need to be stubborn as a weed and hang in there. Of course there is that 10% rule, you know, where one needs to be 10% smarter than the equipment there working on. Ha Ha The 10% rule is what trips me up. That's where these forums help me wether I'm working on cars, trucks, or tractors as to where someone else out there has been down that road ahead.

    Keep the faith! :shades:
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hey Hoodlatch,

    I'm happy to hear you're back on the road again. What ever way you got the pump changed, the results are good right? When I did mine, my tank was over half full so I knew I had to try something different. Yes the 10% rule does come in handy. haha.. I have done a lot of reading on these forums to see if people out there have had the same symptoms and problem that I'm experiencing and have had some success. I really enjoyed conversing with someone like you who just by reading what you write, i can trust the suggestions and advice and actually understand the train of thought. I thank you very much. Since this last problem with my truck, i've gotten on Ebay and purchased the full factory service manual set from a guy that is brand new for 20 bucks. Yes, I am anticipating more problems with this kitten. hahah.. Thanks again Hoodlatch. Don't hesitate to write if you have any question I may be able to help you with. My main job is computers so I can help with that too.

    Aloha!
    vi-kan
  • alldayallday Posts: 1
    2001 s10 2.2 automatic: radiator end cap split and white smoke pouring out from under hood. pulled over in 30 seconds and shut it down. couple hours later replaced radiator and filled it and overflow to capacity. started fine and warmed up to about 165 when steam erupted from drivers side of engine. shut it down, looked for leaks/drips/holes found none. now the engine wont start. whats next? :mad:
  • Ok, i have a 2001 Sonoma V6 with 107k on it. For the last couple months i have had a loud clicking sound coming from the engine, pretty sure it is the lifters. I personally have no way to get to them without a shop but i'll keep trying.
    The problem is this: When i start up cold, i get the clicking and when i accelerate i can redline the oil temp/pressure. At about 3rd gear it'll head back down but every press of the gas will pump it back up. After maybe 5 minutes, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, the clicking will cease and the pressure stays in the middle of the gauge.
    I've changed the oil and filter a couple times, i've used thickener and thinner in the oil but nothing has worked. I spoke to a fella at a NAPA shop and he knew of an oil pressure issue with older GMC/Chevy trucks. He says they lowered the oil pressure in these trucks.

    Anyone have a similar problem by chance? I'm stumped and i can't believe it would be my oil pump or anything like that.
  • I have a '91 S10 4.3ltr. automatic, 93k miles. This past summer it suddenly started dying as I'd decelerate for a stop. I don't have a tach on the pickup, but it seems the rpms drop too low. It will make a deiseling sound, shimmy and shake, then die. The first time this happened I could not get the pickup restarted. Finally (after many tries), and then after keeping the accelerator on the floor it finally started. I've since not had trouble restarting it, sometimes I have to put the accelerator to the floor, but it always restarts. [On that day I drove it about 8 miles before the trouble started.]

    The pickup has had good maintenance. New plugs, wires, fuel filter. After this happened I changed the fuel filter again. That didn't help. I took it to a mechanic and he cleaned the throttle plate and the idle air control valve. He claimed he couldn't get it to die, but it didn't take long for it to die for me. I thought he may be on to something, so I bought a nee idle air control valve and installed it (along with cleaning the area it seats into a little more). That seemed to help for a while, then back it went to the same old die on decel mode. Sometimes I'll just be sitting at a red light and it will decide to start deiseling and try to die.

    I've also examined and changed a few of my vacuum hoses, but that has not helped. I tried running a can of Seafoam through it. That seemed to help some, then it got over that and has continued the same symptoms.

    I'm suspicious someone could have put something in my gas tank to have started all of this because one of my '04 vehicles started having symptoms a little similar to this at about the same time. I may be a little too paranoid, I don't know. Possibly some bad gas? Wouldn't that have worked itself out by now? I've driven it quite a bit.

    I've not had my fuel pressure checked yet. I've wondered it it was safe to disconnect the idle air control valve and see how it runs then. Is that safe?

    Any ideas what I should try next?

    Thanks,

    James
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I would change the throttle position sensor. That is the most common cause of this sort of problem and is fairly inexpensive.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I had a similar problem on my 92 4.3 a while back. I started replacing sensor with new ones. It started getting expensive guessing which sensor was bad. Instead of forking out 30 - 70 bucks a piece, I started going to the junk yard where they were 5 buck a piece. Then when I found out which one was the culprit I would replace it with a new one. :)
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I recently traded in my S10 with 91K miles. It had that clicking noise when cold. Some call it a "piston slapping" problem. I switched motor oil to the 75k oil for high mileage vehicles (10W30). It helped a bit. The best thing to do is not to accelerate too quickly or rev the engine right after start up. Otherwise, I believe there is nothing that can be done short of a tear down of the engine. Good luck.
  • I am willing to bet that you have your problem fixed by now but I am going through the same problem now. Man it could be anything from a crappy ECM to pressure reg (i have a throttle body) clogged fuel line, filter, plugs, MAF, anything. After you pressure check your system, the pressure should be between 9 and 13 PSI. Since you changed your pump, I would lean to an injector. Best of luck
  • Any luck with your issue? I am having a very similar issue with my 94 Sonoma 4.3L. I replace the fuel pump, sending unit and filter, but it is still losing fuel pressure. I assume there is no signal getting to the pump, but not sure where to start looking (ECM, relay, ignition wiring?). Any ideas would help.
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