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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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  • alldayallday Posts: 1
    2001 s10 2.2 automatic: radiator end cap split and white smoke pouring out from under hood. pulled over in 30 seconds and shut it down. couple hours later replaced radiator and filled it and overflow to capacity. started fine and warmed up to about 165 when steam erupted from drivers side of engine. shut it down, looked for leaks/drips/holes found none. now the engine wont start. whats next? :mad:
  • Ok, i have a 2001 Sonoma V6 with 107k on it. For the last couple months i have had a loud clicking sound coming from the engine, pretty sure it is the lifters. I personally have no way to get to them without a shop but i'll keep trying.
    The problem is this: When i start up cold, i get the clicking and when i accelerate i can redline the oil temp/pressure. At about 3rd gear it'll head back down but every press of the gas will pump it back up. After maybe 5 minutes, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter, the clicking will cease and the pressure stays in the middle of the gauge.
    I've changed the oil and filter a couple times, i've used thickener and thinner in the oil but nothing has worked. I spoke to a fella at a NAPA shop and he knew of an oil pressure issue with older GMC/Chevy trucks. He says they lowered the oil pressure in these trucks.

    Anyone have a similar problem by chance? I'm stumped and i can't believe it would be my oil pump or anything like that.
  • I have a '91 S10 4.3ltr. automatic, 93k miles. This past summer it suddenly started dying as I'd decelerate for a stop. I don't have a tach on the pickup, but it seems the rpms drop too low. It will make a deiseling sound, shimmy and shake, then die. The first time this happened I could not get the pickup restarted. Finally (after many tries), and then after keeping the accelerator on the floor it finally started. I've since not had trouble restarting it, sometimes I have to put the accelerator to the floor, but it always restarts. [On that day I drove it about 8 miles before the trouble started.]

    The pickup has had good maintenance. New plugs, wires, fuel filter. After this happened I changed the fuel filter again. That didn't help. I took it to a mechanic and he cleaned the throttle plate and the idle air control valve. He claimed he couldn't get it to die, but it didn't take long for it to die for me. I thought he may be on to something, so I bought a nee idle air control valve and installed it (along with cleaning the area it seats into a little more). That seemed to help for a while, then back it went to the same old die on decel mode. Sometimes I'll just be sitting at a red light and it will decide to start deiseling and try to die.

    I've also examined and changed a few of my vacuum hoses, but that has not helped. I tried running a can of Seafoam through it. That seemed to help some, then it got over that and has continued the same symptoms.

    I'm suspicious someone could have put something in my gas tank to have started all of this because one of my '04 vehicles started having symptoms a little similar to this at about the same time. I may be a little too paranoid, I don't know. Possibly some bad gas? Wouldn't that have worked itself out by now? I've driven it quite a bit.

    I've not had my fuel pressure checked yet. I've wondered it it was safe to disconnect the idle air control valve and see how it runs then. Is that safe?

    Any ideas what I should try next?

    Thanks,

    James
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I would change the throttle position sensor. That is the most common cause of this sort of problem and is fairly inexpensive.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I had a similar problem on my 92 4.3 a while back. I started replacing sensor with new ones. It started getting expensive guessing which sensor was bad. Instead of forking out 30 - 70 bucks a piece, I started going to the junk yard where they were 5 buck a piece. Then when I found out which one was the culprit I would replace it with a new one. :)
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I recently traded in my S10 with 91K miles. It had that clicking noise when cold. Some call it a "piston slapping" problem. I switched motor oil to the 75k oil for high mileage vehicles (10W30). It helped a bit. The best thing to do is not to accelerate too quickly or rev the engine right after start up. Otherwise, I believe there is nothing that can be done short of a tear down of the engine. Good luck.
  • I am willing to bet that you have your problem fixed by now but I am going through the same problem now. Man it could be anything from a crappy ECM to pressure reg (i have a throttle body) clogged fuel line, filter, plugs, MAF, anything. After you pressure check your system, the pressure should be between 9 and 13 PSI. Since you changed your pump, I would lean to an injector. Best of luck
  • Any luck with your issue? I am having a very similar issue with my 94 Sonoma 4.3L. I replace the fuel pump, sending unit and filter, but it is still losing fuel pressure. I assume there is no signal getting to the pump, but not sure where to start looking (ECM, relay, ignition wiring?). Any ideas would help.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hi J,

    First of all, there are two 4.3L engines available. One is with CPI (central port injection) and the other is a code Z engine or throttle body. You didn't specify in your post which one you have.

    You mentioned that you replaced the fuel pump and it is still losing pressure? Where are you taking the reading from? If you turn the key to the ON position, can you hear the pump run?

    Could you have a bad "new" pump?

    I had a problem on a 95 2.2 Sonoma that started and ran well for about 2 miles then would bog down and die. I put a pressure gage on a "T" fitting right after the fuel filter going towards the engine with a long enough hose so the gage could be duct taped to the drivers window. That allowed me to monitor the pressure as I drove. Sure enough, when the pressure started dropping, the engine bogged down and eventually died. It happened on acceleration only. It would idle ALL DAY LONG if I let it without any problems. Once I pulled over and shut off the engine, I could restart immediately and go another couple miles.

    I used to believe that in-tank pumps would either run or NOT run. I was wrong. I replaced the pump assy and connecting hoses in the tank and it was all taken care of. Ran like a champ once again.

    If this problem you are having is repeated every time you drive, and accellerate, then I would say your pump or since it is new, the interconnecting hose is bad. I can't remember what they called that piece but I replaced it to eliminate having to pull the bed back off to get to the fuel tank again. It's a little more expense but will keep you from having to guess and sliding the bed off to the side once more.

    Good luck
    vi-kan
  • I have a 1995 s10 4.3 ss package motor bored and built not sure to wat spec. i have had it for 20,000 miles and drive it everyday, burns a quart of oil every oil change. But no noise and runs fine other than the stalling. i have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, egr valve or regulator. I have a cousin that runs a motor shop and has hooked the comp. diognostic to it, it says bad sensor which i changed and fuel rich. Cousin said could be a wire grounding out. i hear it pulling air wen it misses. dont know any suggestions be more than glad to listen.
  • Hey i never did change the hoses leading to the pump or that assembly. The only thing is my truck never dies. It just has like a miss in it but wen u put the accelerater to the floor it runs fine. Its sometimes backfires threw the number 4 cylendar im thinkin it might be an injector. I guess that might cause it to run rich. idk confused. But i will try to change that assembly or hoses u were talkin bout.
  • I am having the exact same problem the poster 'bakesale' was having back in october (did he ever get that figured out?) - his post - ..."the motor also 'drops out' at 15mph in 1st, 20-25mph in 2nd, 30-35mph in 3rd, which takes downshifting in an emergency (or uphill, which is a must in this city) out of the question."... by drops out im assuming no longer accelerates no matter how hard you try n push it. I've tried replacing the EGR the spark plugs n wires and even cleaning out the throttle body but I just cant get it to -GO-. :-\ I've had this s10 for years now and recently hit 125k miles i LOVE it but it just seems like its going dead on me :-| Anyone have any ideas?
  • Hello to all... I've been working on my truck for 3 days now and still can't figure out the issue. After the truck gets to operating temp. it hesitates something fierce when I give it moderate gas ie. going up hill. It gets to the point I can't hardly get out of 2nd or 3rd gear. So far I've did expensive troubleshooting with no luck. I've replaced the plugs and wires, Fuel filter, Fuel pump, Coil, and Map sensor. The reason I replaced the Map sensor was because after the service engine light came on I received a code to replace the Map sensor. If there is anyone out there that can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks and Happy new Year!
  • Hello,
    I have a 93 sonoma and its hesitating after getting to operating temp. Gets to the point I can't hardly drive it. Changed just about every part possible and still no luck. Do you have any Ideas?

    Thanks and happy new year.

    Tony
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Hi T,

    I would check and make sure your air filter is not plugged for starters. I know people think of that as the last thing to check if it's checked at all. At Idle, it will run fine, but as the engine demands more air as you accelerate and give it more fuel, it will stumble as if it's being "choked".
  • try the pump in the fuel tank and also wrap the in-line filter with that heatshield insulation and some zip ties should be alright man and test your computer
  • Hey Folks! Have enjoyed reading the content of this forum and have found some very interesting issues and resolutions. I have a '95 S10 short cab, 4.3, 4X4 PU. 151,000 miles. Looks perfect, runs great with no significant issues over trucks life except....this odd condition that appears ONLY in WET conditions.

    Encounter a puddle after a hard rain, drive thru slush or puddles after a snowfall, run thru a gutter with standing water will result; occasionally, in an erratic idle and difficulty accelerating. When at a stop engine will randomly (foot OFF pedal, clutch not engaged) rev and fall (no tach but guess 500+ RPM. Additionally will experience a problem accelerating, will simply not accelerate normally, feels like a speed limiter (not a rev limiter as engine will rev high) is in place. In certain traffic situations I've had to down shift hard to accelerate (when in normal, dry conditions I would have good acceleration in gear I was already in).

    Note that Truck has a well maintained K&N oiled air filter and routine normal maintenance done professionally. Note that condition occurs in both 2X4 and 4X4.

    A 20 or 30 minute drive on dry pavement or motor off for a while restores normal operation.

    Sounds strange....yes, but am CERTAIN of the correlation with wet conditions. Have owned vehicle since new.

    Sorry so long for my first post but currently in the middle of Colorado snow melt and experiencing problem as we speak. THANKS for any input.
  • seal up the bottom of the distributor cap and see if all youre plug boots are seated properly but put som dielectric grease in those plug boots and see if that works or if u have an exposed spot in a main wire near metal
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Every now and then I'll flip the distributor cap up, take my pocket knife, and scrape the terminals / rotor. Some times I'll use dielectric if its handy. I wish the cap had a vent on top like some of the other rigs do.
    :)
  • I took my 91 standard cab short-bed 2 wheel drive and put a 383 stroker in it and had a 4' cowl oni it with open end towards windshield,Icould see my intake clearly well when it rained My motor would act like it was choking out and I thought I was pulling in too much moisture down the intake,nope,sealed up that distributer and boom problem solved,rainy day drifting commenced.
  • taewataewa Posts: 4
    I have a 1997 Chevrolet s-10 (s10) 2wd ext. cab w/ the 4.3L V6 vortec engine and manual transmission. It has about 125K miles on it. The truck starts easily, but it CUTS OUT WHEN DRIVING AT CONSTANT SPEEDS.

    It seems fine during acceleration and at idle, other than SOME CLANKING SOUNDS AT IDLE (not sure if this has anything to do with the problem or not), but as soon as I try to maintain a constant speed, it starts to hiccup every couple seconds. I am not experienced in auto repair, but research points me towards fuel pump and/or filter. Is there a way to diagnose this without fancy tools? A fuel pump is a lot more to replace than just the filter, so is there a way to differentiate which might be bad, if either? Other ideas???

    Thanks so much.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Have you change locations where you fuel up lately? Maybe your getting some bad fuel. Before you spend alot of bucks on parts and repairs you might try a bottle of injector cleaner to see if it helps any.
    Good luck :)
  • taewataewa Posts: 4
    The problem has been persistent for a couple of months now. I don't think it is the type of gas, as I always get 87 octane, and I fill up at different spots all the time. Maybe I'll try a bottle of the injector cleaner, but I don't read very many strong "testimonials" of that type of product. Anyone out there seen it make a big difference? I am going to check out Haynes manual today and see if I can't figure something out with fuel system as well.
  • My 1994 seems to hestitate on light exceleration and sometimes backfires or pops throu the throttle body.IT seems to idle rough sometimes also. My light came on so i read the code and it said my idle valve was bad so i replaced that it ran smother but still have the same problem. So today i changed the fuel filter but i still have the same problem. Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks in Advance
    Aaron
  • Good Afternoon

    Same thing happen to me. I will appreciate any timing information

    Thanks

    PG
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Is your truck's timing chain broken? If your 2.2L is the same as mine, you should first do a compression check. If you have zero on any cylinder, pull the head and have it done at your local machine shop because you have a bent valve or valves. You might as well have them change valve guide seals too since it's minimal cost and they'll already have the head apart.

    If you have compression in all cylinders, your truck was probably at idle or running at a very low RPM when the chain broke. You are lucky and won't have to pull the head.

    Next, when you start to pull the timing gear cover off, the book I had told me to drop the oil pan. DON'T DO IT. Instead, you can remove the two nuts that are on the very front of the oil pan. THEN, using a torx socket, remove the studs that go into the block. You'll see what I'm talking about once you're under there. It will save you a bunch of time. The timing gear cover can then be pulled towards the front of the vehicle instead of having to lift it UP, then forward. It's a very tight squeeze with this engine so the way I described worked best.

    When I got ready to install the new chain and gear set, I set my #1 piston to TDC before re-installing the head.

    Before you install the head (if you had to pull it), install the plate with the EGR valve and the fuel intake line as well. Believe me, you'll be a much happier person then trying to install those two items AFTER the head is mounted.

    When you buy the new timing gear set, make sure you get a new tensioner as well. The new set will come with directions on how to align the marks and set the tension on the chain.

    What I did was take a large piece of cardboard and for every bolt and stud that I removed, I stuck them through the cardboard, used a marker to put a box around the group of bolts and labeled them. That saved me a lot of time during reassembly. Good luck!

    vi-kan
  • I have a 92 blazer with the 4.3 CPI "W" engine. The engine has 40,000 miles on it. Was a Jasper long block replacement. Recently under full throttle after engine is warmed up it bogs and backfires through the plenum you can hear it. No trouble codes are stored in the ECM. Was wondering if the problem centered around the TPS? Any ideas would be appreciated greatly. I would rather replace a 30.00 sensor than take it to a mechanic and pay the diagnostic costs.
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