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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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  • I have a Chevrolet S10,V6,2002,4 wheel auto driver, my gas pressure is good, sometime it backfire through the air filter & stalling all the time, I change lots of parts like injectors ect..., but no luck, there are no codes stored in the ECM,no engine light on. If I drove backward, it drive good, but I go forward it stall.Sometime it will drive good,now it is worst.I am lost.Thank you
  • Finally got my wet weather problem resolved. Was a worn coil wire that occasionally got splashed from roadway up rear of engine. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  • ahinsonahinson Posts: 17
    HAVE A 2003 S-10,2WD,AUTO,4.3L.DO THESE TRUCKS HAVE A REV LIMITER OR SPEED LIMITER ON THEM.TRUCK RUNS GOOD IF YOU TAKE OFF A LITTLE HARD FROM STOP LIGHT.BUT,IF YOU ARE GOING ABOUT 45-50 MPH AND PUT THE GAS TO THE FLOOR AT ABOUT 5700 RPM OR 65 MPH IT STARTS TO CUT OUT.THE TACH JUST BOUNCES OFF THE 8-9000 RPM RANGE. AND GAINS NO MORE SPEED.DOES FINE IF YOU GRADUALLY GAIN SPEED.
  • brijarbrijar Posts: 3
    After checking my fuel pressure and finding it was okay, today I moved on to inspecting and replacing my distributor cap and rotor. When I took the cap off I discovered a small piece of metal lying on the distributor base. I don't know the purpose of the piece but here's a picture looking down into the distributor. There are 6 star tips, missing between the two star tips at the bottom of the photo is the piece I'm talking about. These aren't weights that are between the star points, are they? What kind of problem do I have. I suspect this could have been causing my S10 to run very poorly.
    image
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Here is what I think they are, insulators, so only the star tip is picked by the sensor.
    Not sure if you need to replace the dist or not, auto parts store would know.
  • I have a 2003 s10 and i have found that putting higher octane gas in my truck will stop some vibrating. I would also suggest a good injecter cleaner (Lucas)
  • monsonmonson Posts: 5
    my 1995 gmc sonoma has been running great until three weeks ago the weather got warm. my truck started to pop and backfire when accelerating. i was leaning towards fuel problems or maybe distributor when it got cold the problem went away for about a week and a half. the problem has returned again and its cold outside. continuous popping which sounds like an old car witha a carb the the engine is back firing through the carb. i have been told its something electrical. anyone out there have this problem or a possible solution.
    thanks dave
  • mschulmschul Posts: 1
    More then likely your problem is your catalytic converter. the baffling inside has come loose and causes the rattling and then causes the cat to clog... I had this same problem...what i did was just take the CAT off and break all the baffling up and make it a straight pipe basically. I dont recommend this to everyone due to emmissions checks in some states like california, but i am in texas where it isnt checked. Some people also says its gives a little better horse power boost aswell as better gas mileage. but your problem is your CAT.
  • taewataewa Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestion. I have the same suspicion, as my friend and I were banging on the CAT, and we could hear it moving around. We thought about removing it, but wouldn't that set off the rear O-2 sensor or any other kind of computer check?
  • mmmoxleymmmoxley Posts: 1
    Truck stalls when at stop signs, lights, and when going around corners slowly. It will always start right up again. This tends to happen more often when the tank is below half. When the truck is in park it doesn't have a constant idle, rpm's lower almost to zero before going back to normal. When truck is about to stall tha battery guage halls off to the left slowly sort of like it's giving me a warning. If I could get some advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    A relatively inexpensive starting point would be to change fuel filter. :)
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    i have a 96 s10 with a 4.3L engine i just replaced the map sensor the problem i have is when i try driving it the engine starts cutting out bad but runs great at an idle i can unplug the map sensor and drive it anywhere without any problems and when i plug the map sensor in and unplug the oxygen sensor it has to warm up before it runs ok it starts cutting out bad until it's warm the first time i had a problem it was the harness that plugs into the intake but thats no longer the issue. anyone have any suggestions on what is causing my problems?
    would apriciate any help
  • fuel pump going bad replaced fuel filter didn't help can't find a price in town all over $300 please help find better price also my cat is going bad would like to straight pipe it but it has an o2 sensor after it how can i trick the o2 sensor into thinking it is reading properly oh yeah 4.3L vortec
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Did you check the plastic hose that goes to the MAP? It may be cracked or plugged. Or the nipple where it plugs in may be stopped up.

    What kind of code reading did it give? When you clear the code does the same code come back?

    As to it running better when you unplug the sensor, I've read on some cars the E CC can go to a default mode when the sensor is taken out or goes out, like an O2 sensor for example.

    At risk of being redundant, one of the first signs of a bad coil is it starts bucking when the engine labors on a long pull like going up a steep grade.

    Good luck :)
  • i have a question about my 4.3 s10 ss stalling...iwas cruising at about 55 and 1500rpm when all of a sudden it just cut out...i was wonderng if thiswas a common problem..orif it could be the fuel pump or something...
  • My son has a 91 s15,4.3L that has started to stumble on acceleration. It only gives a code for rich fuel mixture. I jump the code reader and watch the service eng. light flash a 45 code. I have changed the O2 sensor, and rebuilt the internal fuel regulator in the throttle body. Also has new inline fuel filterChecked the tps for out of range voltage, seemed fine. Cleaned EGR valve, wasn't too bad. But it still stumbles at each shift, and if I force the accelerator to make it shift it will stumble even more. I looked into the throttle body at idle and both injectors look to be giving lots of fuel, maybe too much at idle. Tried to test the Idle air control sensor but not sure if I did that right? Any ideas or how to test sensors better would be appreciated.
  • hi, is your truck T.B.I.? if so check your egr valve and the egr solonoid. My 89 TBI had same prob. egr was opening and dropping vacuum in engine
    Maybe it will help
  • Hi, yes it is a tbi. I tried cleaning egr and it didn't appear to have any problem moving. Dont know where or if this model has an egr solenoid. It has a vacuum hose coming out of it. still researching this one.

    Bob
  • I'd bet good money your are right
  • I want to see this beast. Got any images?
    Because when I'm ready, I'll dump the 4.3 when it's due time.
    I might go to a lighter weight V8 like from a Lexus or Beamer.

    http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2378/2000071501_23bcf8e618_o.jpg
  • I am currently working on a 95 Sonoma am having trouble keeping it running. have replaced all sensors engine will start but only runs for a few seconds and then shuts off if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate any help.
  • My son has a 91 s15 that stumbles on acceleration. I have replaced the fuel regulator, fuel filter, replaced plugs, check wires for continuity, replaced o2 sensor. This vehicle idles fine until it reaches running temp. then it stumbles severely on accerleration and then throws rich fuel mixture on the o2 sensor. How much fuel should one see coming out of the injectors into the throttle body while it is idling. This one seems to be alot. I can see it covering the walls and plate pretty well just when idling. I tried to test the tps and the ignition coil and the ignition pickup inside the dist. but not sure if I am doing it right. Any help would be appreciated.

    Bob
  • 1988 Chevy S-10 2.6 V-6 4 wheel drive.When I
    drive the truck for 30 minutes I have to keep my
    foot on the gas a little, because If I don't the
    truck dies, and when I start it up it acts like the
    battery doesn't have the volts, but it only does
    this when the engine is normal temperature.
    Please help me out on this!
  • When the truck warms up to normal temp,when I stop at traffic lights or stop signs,
    if I don't keep my foot on the gas stopped,the truck will die and when I try to
    start it up the starter tries to drag only when it dies.Please help me out with
    a solution?
  • try the ignition module, it goes out,everything goes out except starter. hope this helps
  • try replacing the tps sensor or it may be the injectors
  • i have a 93 sonoma 2.8 v6 have been having simular problem. have had trouble starting it , will fially fire then after you drive it just dies. put in new fuel pump and today ignition switch. but when i was driving i would turn corner and it just dies, tow bills are getting out of control
    please help if you all have figured it out yet
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