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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Stalling/Dying Problems

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  • I haven't figured my son's truck out yet, but I will let you know when I do.
  • mptimkomptimko Posts: 1
    Hello to all, I come in search of a possible solution. I have a 2000 s10 4wd 4.3 V6 vin W with CPFI (central port fuel inj). Well I have a mind stumper. A few weeks ago, my fuel pump died on me for the 2nd time in 2.5 yrs. So, after much cursing and swearing, I bit the bullet and replaced the pump and harness, flushed the tank, filter etc. It ran ok for a day or two but then it started acting up. What it does is when you start it and go it's great for about 15 minutes and then all of a sudden you can't do anything more than just tap the gas. If you do, say going up a hill or even on flat, it just bogs down and if you geive it even more than half throttle, it backfires up thru the intake, not loudly, but enough. Kinda sounds like when you pull the choke out on your lawnmower and it starts flooding out. At first, you could pull over and shut it off, wait a min and then do it all over again, but now it's gotten progressively worse. I put a full tune up on it when I did the pump, and just yesterday it popped the code for a left bank o2 sensor so I changed that and looked for any vacum leaks but to no avail.. After looking at what else it can be, I have gotten everything from egr valve, throttle pos sensor, maf sensor, clogged cat conv. I am at my wits end cause it ran great until the problem with the pump and I can't go to the garage cause they will kill me on diagnostic charges. Anyone else had this problem????? Thanks for your input
  • red91red91 Posts: 1
    hi ive got a 91, 2.8 tbi, 2wd, and am having some trouble with it. It will start up and run for a few seconds and then it will run really bad. When taking off it will start to die out in each gear up untill 4th thenit dont as bad. Have put new plugs,wires, cap,roter,coil,fuel fiter,air filter,iac valve,map sensor,egr valve,cat,muffler,02 sensor,cleaned inj,have checked the timing alot and found no vacume leaks,it dont give any code or light,took to shop they said map sensor, and now am looking at a fuel pump or tps or a 350 can yall help , kinda on a budget after th parts
  • "What it does is when you start it and go it's great for about 15 minutes and then all of a sudden you can't do anything more than just tap the gas. If you do, say going up a hill or even on flat, it just bogs down and if you geive it even more than half throttle, it backfires up thru the intake, not loudly, but enough. Kinda sounds like when you pull the choke out on your lawnmower and it starts flooding out. At first, you could pull over and shut it off, wait a min and then do it all over again, but now it's gotten progressively worse."

    This is exactly what was happening to my Dad's 1997 GMC Sonoma, we replaced the water pump and haven't had a problem since.
  • Im new to this forum, and have recently been having problems with my 2000 S10, a couple months ago it would randomly short and everything electrical in the car would turn off and on, and as time went on it would get worse and not come back on. So i took it to a Goodyear and they said it was a loose bolt on the fuse box or w/e, which appeared to fix it. Until now...it has come back with a vengeance, it'll die, and after jumping appear to not have full power, go 10 feet and die again. So i dont know what to do to permanently fix this aggravating problem.
  • cinchupcinchup Posts: 1
    ok I hope someone can help. I have a 96 s10 truck manual 4cyl. It has been a great truck until now. Twice now it has stoped on me when I am ideling. It stops and won't do anything. we let it rest for 15 minuts and it will start back up again. After the first time we thought it was the fuel pump and so we first changed the fuel filter, it was clogged bad. Now after it happned the second time we now think it might be my computer system going out. I had a mechanic look at it and we had it running for 2 hours and it only stoped once and started up right away, not like it has been while I was driving it. I don;t need it anymore I just want to be able to sell it running. Any help on where to start would be great. I have many people telling me different ideals but no one knows for sure.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    detritotroph,

    "a couple months ago it would randomly short and everything electrical in the car would turn off and on, and as time went on it would get worse and not come back on"

    Is this while you were driving? Hitting any bumps? At Idle? When you say "not come back on" do you mean it wouldn't start or it didn't flicker off and back on like your lights in the house during a thunder storm? In all instances, I would check and make sure your battery cables are connected well to the frame for the ground points and to your starter/alternator on the hot side. There's something definitely loose on the ground or hot side OR rubbing between hot and ground somewhere creating a shot. Be sure to check and make sure all your fuses are in perfect order as well.

    Was any electrical work done to it lately? New starter? Alternator? Stereo or alarm install? Subwoofer / Amp? After market DVD player? Sounds like it may be a dead short. Look for anyplace a hot wire may come into contact with ground. That's the reason for the questions about the electrical mods. I've seen where people install stereos themselves and tap into a hotwire under the dash and not insulate it where it rubs on the chassis or dash and shorts out.

    Was the bolt on the fusebox a ground bolt? Check for more loose bolts in that area if the fusebox bolt was a grounding point. Loose connections will temporarily disconnect and surge power like you describe also.

    That's the best advise I can give you with the information you posted.

    Good luck,
    vi-kan
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    My 96 S-10 (4 cylinder) sputters when accelerating. This gets worse as the engine warms up. Sounds like it's poping/backfiring in the throttle body sometimes. There is no check engine light at this time.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    I would start with a tune up.
  • lilgtolilgto Posts: 12
    During warm weather (mostly summer months) my 2001 S10 has a problem with the idle speed increasing, once I notice the increase in RPMs I can shut the vehicle off, restart it and it goes back to a normal idle. The idle will remain normal until I drive it again for a few miles. I have taken it to a few places but each time they look at it the idle speed does not increase. This problem surfaced the other night and when I tried to pull away from a stop the vehicle about died. The funny thing is I can drive this vehicle for hours in colder weather and it will never occur. As stated this is a 2001 S10, 2.2 engine, auto and about 125,000 miles on it. All preventive maintenance is completed on time. I have a feeling it could be the 2 different sensors or the Idle Air Controller. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    lilgto,

    If you suspect the IAC, have you tested it yet? From what I've read, the IAC valve is something that receives data from other sensors as well. Coolant temp, AC, accessories etc. It is supposed to compensate for the load you are putting on the engine. i.e. if you turn the AC on while idling, the engine would normally slow down due to the increased load, thus making the IAC compensate for that and speed up the engine to keep is from stalling. If you disconnect the IAC while the engine is running and put a load on the engine, the engine should stall which indicates the IAC is working. If this is the case, the IAC probably isn't the problem.

    Sounds like it may be an air blockage issue. Maybe a vacuum line that is restricted or pinched that is plugged into the intake? You know how an engine will speed up if the choke is on? Same principle in my opinion.

    Good luck.
  • lilgtolilgto Posts: 12
    vikan,

    Thanks for responding, yes I have tested it and even changed it out but it has started happening again during the warm weather. I have been looking for vacum leaks for some time but so far nothing. I am thinking the problem might be in the PCM since the fast idle issue disappears whenever I shut the vehicle off and restart it. I will keep trying to figure this out since the mecnanics seemed to be puzzled. Once again, thank you for your prompt response.
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    lilg,

    After a quick search on google and reading from this Q & A, it sounds like there may be something shorting that leads back to the PCM. You might want to do a little reading here and maybe even post a question to these guys. I'd hate to see you spending money on guessing what might be wrong, only to have to spend more on something else. I know it gets frustrating so hang in there. Personally, I think at this point, I would attempt to find a schematic that shows you what connects to anything that has to do with idle speed.
    http://www.2carpros.com
    vikan
  • goxnergoxner Posts: 1
    i am experiencing an electrical issue with this vehicle. i am blowing fuses left and right. first it was the fuse for the guages. i unplugged the ac relay and that problem went away. not even a week later while driving home, the vehicle just dies. the fuse for the ECM Batt, blows. i replaced the fuse and restarted the vehicle with a little coaxing, it idles, but when i press the accelerator pedal, it starts to buck and sputter, then dies, blowing the fuse once again. the vehicle will move in reverse fine but when it is in drive it buck and dies. i have a mechanic chasing wires but has found nothing as far as a pinched wire or exposed wire causing the short. any help with this will greatly be appreciated.
  • lilgtolilgto Posts: 12
    vikan,

    Again, Thank you for the information, I will check out the link you provided and see what happens. I too have thought it was a short but then I was told by a good source it could actually be the PCM going bad...
  • fte003fte003 Posts: 2
    please someone..i need help.i have 1992 gmc sonoma 4.3 6 cyl 2wd

    i have had this truck for 3 years now..she's been a real good truck.. but the other day i got off the highway and came to a stop..and it just died..took about 45 minutes for it to start back up..got it about 4 miles more and it died again..took 2 hours for it to start again..got about 3 blocks and died..had it towed home the rest of the way.i have replace fuel pump,filter,thermostat,map sensor,throttle sensor, coil
    i can go ut side now and she will start right up but as soon as she warms up it dies.
    the igition works fine ..to me something is getting hot and shuts engine down till it cools back down...please if anyone can help i would be grateful this truck is my lively hood and i need her back on the road... thank s :sick:
  • fte003fte003 Posts: 2
    some one out Please see if u can help, i have a 1992 gmc sonoma. my problems started with fuel pump. i replaced fuel pump, filter. truck ran good again/ about week later i came off highway and it died. took about 45 min to start again got it about 3 miles and died again. took 2 hour for it to start.. got 3 blocks and once again it died. i then had it towed home. i had code check come up for map and throttle sensor..i have replaced them also now.
    i have even changed thermostat.. the problem i have when truck is cold it will start right up but once it warms up it shuts down..the igition cranks real good but it wont start. i have checked the coil
    it works..so if someone else has this problem and got it fixed please help..this truck is my lively hood and i need it back on the road. many thanks
  • vikanvikan Posts: 15
    Have you checked to make sure you have no air restriction? I'm assuming this vehicle has a throttle body. If it starts with no problem, remove the air cleaner. watch the butterfly on it to see if it closes on it's own once warmed up. Wrap the engine to see if it's operating properly. Next, I'd run it without the air cleaner (on the highway away from dusty environment) to see how it acts. If it does die, have someone crank the engine and see if your butterfly is in the closed position which would be choking it.

    Another thing to check is your vacuum lines going to the intake. If the idle seems rought spray a soapy water solution around the vacuum line fittings. If the idle smoothens when water is sprayed, you have a vacuum leak.

    The last possibility I can think of without spending a lot money is vapor lock. Make sure your vent lines for the fuel tank are not plugged. I believe the engine compartment holds the gas fume recycling canister (not the exact name) which has vent lines that run from the fuel tank to the canister (charcoal filled for emissions) and back to the tank again. The easy test would be to drive without your gas cap on.

    Good luck.
  • after it dies spray some starter fluid into intake and see if it starts, if it does you have a fuel prob, if it doesn't you have an ignition prob. If it has an electronic ignition module i would suspect that, you may do a spark test after a no start
  • lranlran Posts: 1
    Hi all
    I am starting to have a issue. My truck ( 1996 jimmy v6 vortec) has ran flawless, but all of a sudden I will be driving down the highway and it just quits. I put it into neutral and it starts up and can drive again. Sometimes for an hour or 2, and sometimes it will do it again right away. This is happening when the vehicle is warm and at highway speed.
    When I am in town this rarely happens, it will only happen if I just came from the highway and am just getting into town it might just die.
    I thought it might be a bad batch of gas, but it has happened for a month now. I thought it might be a new stereo that I got put in, but it still happens when I leave the faceplate off the stereo. I am at a loss of what to start to check what is causing this as parts for this truck are extremally high. It has had regular oil changes and has recently had a tune up.

    thank you for any suggestions.
  • if i pour gas in to the throttle body it will start, and run for awhile then die in a few minutes, and when it is running it will idle and if im easy on the gas i can drive it for a short time but if i put the pedal to the floor it sputters, i have put new fuel pump with wires, mass air flow sensor, hollowed out the catalic converter, new ox sensors on exaust, i dont know what else to do, any help would be greatly apperacited
  • I have a 2001 chevy s10 4.3 4wd auto, it runs good until it's warmed up, then once it's warm it seems to be not getting any fuel. It sputters and backfires and runs very sluggish, but it's not missin. I've changed the catalyc converter, O2 sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter. I don't know what else it could possibly be. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
  • did you find a solution to this problem? email me at richardKoon@hotmail.com...
    Thanks,
    Richard
  • gk10gk10 Posts: 2
    Has anyone found the answer to the S-10 acceleration/engine quit probem? I'm having the same problem with my 2000 S-10 as others have mentioned. One the engine has heated up (primarily in warm weather) pressing the gas pedal causes bouncing on the tachometer and loss of power. If I stop, I have to turn off the vehicle and restart to get it moving again - at a snails pace. The idle has started to increase and will pull the vehicle at about 25 mph if I don't tap the gas. I occasionally smell gas outside the vehicle if I recently filled the tank. the check engine warning light came on a couple of days ago. Last year I paid over $2,000 for transmission work which did not fix the problem. Before spending any more money I would like to have a good idea of what the problem is. Thanks! GK10
  • GK10,

    So far I have not been able to figure this problem out, yours sounds a little bit worse than mine but the same issue of once it gets warm the idle speeds up then after driving it for a little while it acts like the engine is starving for air. I will have to pull over, shut the engine off and start it back up again and it is fine (the idle returns to normal). I have 2 other sensors that I am going to replace to see if these are the problems. The Air Flow Sensor or the TPS (Throttle Pos Sensor) if these do not correct the problem I have been told the PCM may need replaced.
  • I feel for you and all the rest with the stalling problem. My son's 1995 4cyl, 5spd S10 stalled at various run times (distances) over a 4 week time frame. Seemed like a heating problem (vapor lock or temp sensor causing the computer to shut the engine down). Changed the thermostat and fan clutch. No fix. When driving to troubleshoot had to get gas, noticed an abnormally long time of venting when cracking the fuel tank cap open. Left the gas cap off and low and behold no more stalling. Apparently we have a vacuum being created in the fuel tank as the fuel level drops which the fuel pump can't overcome. The stalling happens quicker the lower the fuel level in the tank. Checked the fuel tank cap for release of vacuum by applying a suction on the cap. It does slowly release the vacuum but not as fast as the vented gas cap in my '93 S10. I suspect I have a bad cap. It isn't clear from the manual I have if there is supposed to be an additional way to vent the vaccum out of the fuel tank other than the fuel tank cap. According to the maunal the charcoal vapor vent canister and closed fuel tank system wasn't implemented until 1996. Maybe our truck is a late '95 which includes the close system. Hope this helps you all out, Good Luck.
  • I have an 88 S10 2.8 fuel injected 5 speed manual transmission. Truck will start, but will not stay running unless you feather the gas to try to keep it running. Once it backfires through the carb, it throws a code 24, which is a speed sensor. I cannot find this speed sensor. They say it is on the tail end of the transmission. There is no electric going to the back of the transmission. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned throttle body injectors, checked all wiring, grounds...still having problem. Is this possibly a computer problem?
  • hanesdhanesd Posts: 3
    crank sensor
  • hanesdhanesd Posts: 3
    my cat plugged up a while back and i just put a straight pipe on it, i was wondering if i could trick the 02 sensor because its running a litlle fat and i was wondering if i put a new cat on if it would clog up( if there is some reason it clogged up other than miles and age), truck has 130,000 miles it is a 2.2 liter engine i have a header on it. thank you
  • I have a 99 chevy S-10 with the 2.2 engine, manual trans. and 135K miles. My problems started about 2 weeks ago, when driving at a steady speed if I try to accelerate the engine tries to die. The best way I can describe it is, if you press the brakes to stop and don’t press the clutch that jerking motion the vehicle makes, it happens for a second then everything goes back to normal. Except for 2 times it did something different. One of the times I was in fifth gear and went to accelerate nothing happened (engine did not bog down or speed up). The gas pedal was all the way down to the floor after about 45 seconds the truck sped up. Then the other day I was making a right hand turn and all my lights dimmed and the oil gauge on the dash went to zero, my battery gauge went to about 9 I lost power steering. I thought my truck had stalled but the engine was still running and sounded really bogged down. After a minute of coasting the truck went back to normal and ran good the est of the way home. I have not drove it since. The plugs, wires are good. replaced the fuel filter, got gas from a different station but it did not help. I’m lost on what the problem is. I have been told it could be the fuel pump, short circuit, cam shaft position sensor, timing chain, injectors, or the computer. I'm getting no check engine lights. If you could give me any help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your help.
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