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Comments
The rear air fan is working fine. Any ideas before I contact the dealer. Thanks
It looks like replacing the lines next to the firewall/motor requires the exhaust system to be dropped out and a few other parts removed to get to these fittings.
I got one from www.mouser.com (part# 511-STP85NF55). Works great!
$1.79 plus shipping. Good luck.
So I went to the local Chrysler Dealer to have my vehicle looked at, since replacing the resister pack did not fix my issue where AC works in the rear, but not in the front. The dealer said it was a bad blower motor and would cost $400 to fix.
Is this a normal price? How hard is it to replace myself with basic tools? I am handy, but I am just not sure how to go about doing this? Is there a website with directions on stuff like this?
Also I need to replace my spark plugs as well. Can this be easily done or do you have to remove a lot of engine components to get them replaced in a 2002 T&C EX 3.8L?
Thanks for any suggestions...
Have an 02 with same issue. Dealer says its the control head in the passenger compartment. Part # 5127466AB - $540 from them ... $261 from newchryslerparts.com.
Haven't tried to replace it yet ... but how tough could it be?
I would replace it myself, but can't find the right part # or part.
Any idea why this is happening? Any idea what part(s) I need?
Wife really frustrated, so any help would be great.
Only 60K miles.....gets me mad
Any pointers to what part controls this, and where I should look is helpful!
Problems with my HVAC on the 2005 T&C Limited are:
1. Blower direction stuck on front-vent
2. AC compressor does not kick on when I push the snowflake button
3. Lights are burning out like crazy, and only the left most buttons are illuminated on the panel.
Posted those other two problems because I personally think there's some type of root cause behind all of them..
Thanks!
The zones work ok except when the system first comes on.
He can't turn the system to manual or off.
Any ideas?
I talked to the dealer and they said this is a common problem when they are new. Part of me thinks they just don't want to deal with the car; part of me thinks this might be reasonable. However, I also don't want them ripping the dashboard apart if they don't have to because of the likelihood of introducing a rattle.
The problem is that I have to drive with my window open to keep the window clear. And when it's zero outside, that is not a lot of fun.
has anyone else had this problem? I didn't see any TSB's about it and with the current cold snap, the problem is getting to me. especially since this car isn't even a month old yet.
Thanks,
Jeff
I have a fairly new Chrysler with auto climate control and it takes at least 5 minutes before the fan starts blowing on high when it's really cold unless I switch it to manual.
I guess the engineers figured people wouldn't want cold air blowing on them and the computer waits until the antifreeze has reached a certain temp. Turning the knob from "A" to manual overrides all that.
A few days ago, I noticed a squeaky noise coming from the serpentine belt. After taking it to the dealership again for a diagnose they told me that the noise is coming from the AC Compressor and needs to be replaced for another $1,300
And now since the AC doesn't work any more I was thinking to replace them both including the compressor clutch, but I've been reading and reading most of the posts related to my problem on this forum and some other websites and before I buy the Repair Manual, I was wondering if one of the Edmund's Professional staff or one of the members can give me some info/tips on how to, and steps to be accomplished. I used to work on small car engines few years back when cars didn't have so many parts controlled by the computers. I also was wondering if the AC doesn't work any more I still have to take the van to a shop to discharge the rest of the freon if there is any left before proceeding with removing the AC compressor? Any help would be gladly appreciate it.
The good news is that we had a warm spell and this problem seems to have corrected itself. I'm not sure if somehow a little bit of water was in the ducts or if the system did just have to "break in". I'm just happy it works right now.
Upon start up, the engine runs fine. The needle on the engine temperature gauage remains at the bottom, at "C" for at least 5 to 10 mins. Then it slow increases to the 1/4 mark. Then within 1 minute it shoots up the the 7/8 mark close to the "H". (The first few times this happened I shut off the vehicle). However, now I found that after another 5 minutes, the needle lowers back down to the "just below the 1/2 way" mark.
At the same time, my cabin heat stopped functioning correctly. Related? Perhaps.
I can't get any heat in the cabin unless I'm traveling at least 40 mph. Therefore while driving through town, there is not heat. On the highway, I have all the heat I want. However after slowing back down to below 40 mph, the vehicle begins blowing cold air again.
Since I take my children to school in the morning, they are freezing the whole way. I don't dare turn on the heat since it only blows cold air, but instead I've given them blankets. After dropping them off, I hit the highway to get to work, and then I'm warm and toasty!
Let me know what you think,
Chaz
The fact that the heat only works at higher speed might mean that there are clogged passages and you're only getting effective coolant flow when the engine is at a higher rpm and generating a higher water pump pressure.
I recommend a new thermostat and a cooling system backflush.
Also, I'm not a mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.
http://car.justanswer.com/
2001 Blower Motor
From the above link:
just wanted to update this topic, I replaced my blower motor module tonight, took a whole 2 minutes and it fixed the problem
I have the same exact problem you have, also on a 2003 T&C! The blower fan will not turn off and runs in only one speed. Temperature control works fine. When I turn the climate control system off, the blower switches into recirculation mode, even though the display is off. Coincidentally my daughter got a jump start yesterday, and they did not disconnect the battery. jbob1315 or others have an idea on this one?
thx Fris
When I noticed it cycling, I took it to the dealer service I bought it from. They said "that's completely normal". I made sure they understood that it was in non-auto mode, but they insisted it will cycle the compressor periodically in non-auto mode. I may be wrong, but that doesn't seem right to me. Can anyone confirm or refute the dealer ?
Any ideas?
sfrisbee
Can anyone provide further info, or has anyone has a similar thing happen ?
Any help would be appreciated
Well, you are correct about this being a widespread problem. I was contacted by my vendor a few weeks ago, notifying me that this evaporator core is under development, and that I had better place my order, because orders for this unit are huge.
I just checked AllData and Mitchell for any bulletins regarding any A/C issues for your Grand Caravan (I checked Chrysler Town & Country as well), but there was nothing pertaining to the evaporator. Yet. I can tell you that there was a little-known bulletin related to the 2001-2003 models of your same vehicle with respect to the A/C compressor, in which Chrysler extended the warranty due to a higher than normal failure rate.
We sell more Chrysler evaporator cores than any other, so they do have some problems. At this point, I recommend (1)making a big fuss, especially with the facts you have. If enough folks do that, they’ll cover the replacement. You might also post this issue on some Chrysler web forums. (2) Keep checking back for a technical service bulletin to be issued for this problem.
TechChoice Parts Distributors
3051 FM 663
I am currently trying to contact the Chrysler District Service Manager and intend to follow up on this problem as much as possible.
When the outside temp is over 90 degrees the vehicle interior is still warm. I am sweating even when using the recalculate feature The dealership checked it for the 3rd time and found nothing wrong. Have you experienced this problem and do you have any suggestions for a solution? Thanks
I am also concerned about how long it will stay fixed since I am about to go out of warranty.
$945 for a this part? On a vehicle barely 3 years old, and then to find all of this info.... also found posts that this was a problem on the '05 model and Chrysler issued a recall for the "rust belt" states. :mad: :lemon:
I have a 2006 SXT (50,000 miles) which just had the rear evaporator replaced yesterday. The wait was about 4 weeks. The cost was $1,068 at Fire Stone. I can not believe that Dodge will not stand behind defective workmanship. At least they should be going after their subcontractor. It appears that the evaporator and the expansion valve are one unit. I was told that you can not just replace the expanson valve. There is also a hose that is recommended to be replaced. I do not believe I will buy a dodge again if thet can not stand behind their workmanship.
I just had to replace the rear evaporator also in my 2006 Dodge GC SXT. Got dealer to provide the part free but had to have a Dodge Dealer install it. Problem is that I had already paid almost $400 to have a repair shop try to fix it. They are the ones who discovered the problem. So I had to pay labor twice for same work!!!
Very disappointed but not surprised by Chrysler's not issuing a TSB on this problem. If they had I would have went to a Dealer in the first place.