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Town & Country/Caravan Heating / Cooling



  • jchesnutjchesnut Posts: 1
    The heat and air controls only work on high and the air doesn't blow out cold can anyone help me on where to start working
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    The front blower for heater/air conditioner stopped working on all speeds. I surmised it was the resistor pack unit mounted behind the glove box, as others have mentioned.

    I first unplugged the two connectors to this unit and removed it, then temporarily connected battery to the blower terminals to make sure the blower motor worked, which it did. I decided to buy a new resitor pack, and I installed the new one right in the Dodge dealers lot, so I could check that this was indeed the problem. After installation, blower worked properly on all speeds. Cost $17.14 pus sales tax. Dealer gave me a discounted price, maybe because original only lasted 4 years New unit is completely redesigned from the old one, but it mounts and connectors plug in same as old one. I am assuming this was redesigned because of premature failures in the old design. Replacement part number 68029175AA 019D.
  • I have an '07 T&C Touring - bought in '08 w/ low miles. After two years, we still only have 54K miles on it, but starting to pay for problems. My A/C went out last week and when I took it to the shop, he diagnosed and said there's a leak in the rear air compressor (by back spare wheel well area). Said this is a common place for T&C leaks / cracks to happen. I was told this is about a $600 part (Plus labor to fix), so I left the shop paying $100 for the diagnosis and did NOT fix the air. It's heating up in the Ohio area and I don't want to spend the summer with no AIR.

    Here's my question....I've had two other T&C's before this one (a 2001 and 2006 - both company cars, so I didn't pay for any problems) and I LOVE these vans. But...not sure I'm ready to keep dumping money into it AND make a $300 car payment every month. I recently put about $400 it for front brakes, and now the auto lock mechanism on the sliding door isn't working (another $200 to fix), it is pulling to the right and I'm gonna need new tires soon. Plus...the $700+AIR fix I haven't made yet.

    I'm wondering if I should cut my losses and trade the van in right now and get something newer w/ a warranty. If I'm gonna make a monthly payment anyway - it should be for something I don't have to dump money into...right? Any opinions or insights are welcome - any similar experience? Is it worth it to keep it?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Well, we have 64K miles on a 2007 DGC - sister of your van, and have only had to put front brake pads on it. The passenger side power windows stopped working for a while, but I took the door apart and fixed that for only a couple of dollars for some lubricant. Those have been the only things repaired.

    I thought Chrysler extended the warranty for the A/C lines to the rear unit. Seems to me I got a letter from Dodge to that effect, but don't have the info with me.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    There is an extended warranty in effect for 2006 and 2007 Dodge and Chrysler minivans which extends the warranty to 7 years and 70000 miles for the rear air conditioning evaporator. We received this notification by mail on November 29, 2009. You might want to check with a Chrysler/Dodge dealer to see if your leak is covered.
  • espodsespods Posts: 1
    my 96 dodge caravan 3.8 a/c and heat blower is in op. both fuses are good 40 amp and 10 amp. blower switch ohms out ok. blower motor is good.
    i have no power to the fuses or control switch or at blower motor. relay location ? please help
  • bvp1bvp1 Posts: 1
    Any chance you still have your letter? I recieved the same letter. (I had already fixed that problem) I have still not recieved the reimbursement check and don;t know the contact info. Like an idiot I send the letter in and didn't keep a copy for my records. I just sent the bill. HELP!
  • I too would be very interested in seeing this letter. Our 2006 with only 39,900 miles made a loud hissing sound and the A/C quit, so we took it in too, of course be told it wasn't covered. The service manager told me to write Chrysler to see if we could get reimbursed under the Warranty Extension referred to here, but the first two people I have talked to so far have denied my claim.

    So, I am escalating to find out why our 2006 vin is excluded from the list when the part numbers for the parts replaced are identical to those 2006's that are covered. if anyone has some helpful information, I would be greatful!
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    The letter I received I referred to in post 153 states that the extended warranty applies only to 2006 and 2007 Caravan, Grand Caravan and Town & Country minivans. It does not mention any exclusions except that the extended warranty does not cover other A-C parts. It applies only to the rear evaporator. If some other component failed, then this extended warranty would not apply. There is a phone number listed for if you have an issue your dealer is unable to resolve. It is 1-800-992-1997.

    They also will cover if you already paid to have it repaired, in which case you send your original receipts and/or other adequate proof of payment to the following address for reimbursement:

    Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
    PO Box 21-8004
    Auburn Hills, MI 48321-8004
  • So, does anyone have a suggestion of where I can lodge a complaint with Chrysler? I have been through three case managers and all say there is nothing they can do for me, the VIN on my 2006 Town & Country is excluded from the Rear Evaporator Warranty extension. They all three aggreed the part numbers are the same and the year is the same, but deny my claim.

    All three refused to give me an avenue to escalate my claim, stating their decision is final and there is no one above them.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Other than calling the customer service number listed, I don't know what else you can do other than getting a lawyer involved.

    I don't understand why they are denying your claim, since my letter stated it covered 2006 and 2007 model years. If they never fixed the problem in 2006, and still had problems in 2007, then it would seem to me that all 2006 model year product would be covered.
  • jdod85jdod85 Posts: 2
    i have an 08 with same problem. dealer said it was under warreenty. check it out.
  • hope2u2hope2u2 Posts: 1
    I just wanted to let you know our 2006 T&C had the same problem and it was recalled, hope you already have this ibfo by now but that is totally covered due to the recall.
  • baaskidsbaaskids Posts: 1
    I am having trouble finding the rear evaporator part. Any suggestions? Also can the rear evaporator unit be bypassed? Works great until freon leaks out of the rear unit.
  • about two weeks ago i lost speedo tach and drive indicator is goofy now it won't run it starts and stalls. i looked into the cluster because forums say it could be the problem i donn't see any problem with the soldered joint. i think its a alarm issue but not sure e. if anyone has an idea it would be great
  • jakeg64jakeg64 Posts: 23
    I was just about to buy a 2006 T&C with 37,700 miles on it, but had a mechanic look at it first. He was familiar with the evaporator problem and found that it was leaking and needed repair. $1700 worth of repair. I called the number in the above post, but this car's specific VIN is not on the list for the extended warranty for this problem. I was told I can speak to a case manager and might be able to get it repaired as "good will" since it is close to the end of the original 36,000 warranty.
    The mechanic I took it to said that he knows the ins and outs of the repair, but said it would only last for about another 36,000 miles since it is corrosion that causes the problem and that can't be remedied. What are other folks/mechanics doing about the evap. problem long term? Should I just expect an A/C leak in 3 years and sell the car when I notice it? I can't believe there's not a permanent solution to this obvious design flaw. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • jakeg64jakeg64 Posts: 23
    I spoke to a different mechanic today that quoted $1200 for the rear evap. job (replacing the "kit") and I asked him about long term solutions. He said I could apply some sort of undercoating to the lines to prevent corrosion, but that he wouldn't do that since it would void the 1 year 12,000 mile warranty on his repair. He said that if it needed work again, the whole thing would be sealed/gunked up with undercoating and it would make the job much more difficult. I'm thinking if corrosion is the origin of the problem and I prevent corrosion with undercoating, what are the chances a leak will occur in the same place again? Even though I'm naive about this repair, the undercoating seems like a good solution to prevent it from happening again.
    Would others apply this treatment to the lines following the repair?
  • 60426042 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 2006 T&C. I asked the parts guy at the local Chrysler dealer and he says it can't be the resistor if the blower won't work on any speed because the resistor is used to limit the speed only if you don't run it at its highest speed. He thinks I need to replace the blower itself which he will sell me for $140. I looked behind the glove box and it appears the blower has a plastic cover that can be easily removed. Is that how you removed the blower, or is there more to the blower removal than just taking the bottom half of the cover off?
  • hdave7hdave7 Posts: 9
    Same/similar problem on my 2000 T&C. The AC/Heat blower only works on high speed so it sounds like the resistor pack is the problem but I've been unable to locate it. Removed the glove box and looked all around behind it and under the dash on the passenger side. Only things I could find with electrical type connections were a vent door regulator and a thermostat. Can any one let me know what this part looks like and where it might be located on the 2000 T&C LX 3.3. Also still having problem locating the "fan relay" for the radiator fans. Don't see it on the bumper frame. Thanks, Dave
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    edited July 2010
    When my fan stopped working, it did not run at ALL. The fix stille was the resistor unit. Once I replaced that, which is literally a less than ten minute job, as I put the new one in right outside the dealer, the blower worked fine on all speeds.

    While the resister pack can fail so that the only speed you have is maximum, the resistor pack absolutely CAN fail and not allow the blower to run on any speed. My situation was proof of that.

    Don't replace a blower when you can replace a resistor pack easily yourself. If that doesn't work, all you are out is the fairly low cost of the replacement resistor, not the cost of a blower, which you likely may not need.

    You can always try my trick of connect the battery temporarily to the two leads that feed the blower motor. I did not have to gain access to the blower to test it, I just pushed stripped wire ends into the blower lead wires that plug in to the resistor pack, and used my jumper cables to go direct from the battery to the blower motor leads. If the blower works under those conditions, then it is most likely the resistor pack.

    My parts guy said that virtually all the problems with the blower fan not running are the resistor pack failure, and the fact that the replacement unit was a complete redesign of the original lends support to my theory that the original resistor pack was a marginal design.
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