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Town & Country/Caravan Heating / Cooling

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Comments

  • hdave7hdave7 Posts: 9
    I hope some one can help me locate the resistor pack on a 2000 T&C. I just came in from searching for it again after watching a diy video on YouTube which shows how to replace the resistor pack on similar Chrysler models. I have pulled out the glove box and the cover around the lower center console and followed all the wiring as far as possible. It seems the Resistor Pack on this model is well hidden. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • hdave7hdave7 Posts: 9
    Thanks. That was the info I needed. It is in the same location as the 2000 caravan.
    FYI to anyone trying to remove/replace their resistor: It's under the hood thru the top edge of the firewall behind an ac line and is very difficult to access. It's held in place by compression/squeeze retainer clips on each side. There is no access to the retainer clips. The connectors on mine were quite corroded and one was almost burned thru and partially fused in place. This made removing the connector extremely difficult. I believe wrestling with the stuck connector added to the difficulty of then removing the resistor pack. The retaining clips were probably bent out of shape and it took a good deal of force (difficult in the confined space) to remove the pack. I was able to remove the burned male connector from the connector plug and cleaned up a little of the external corrosion and melted plastic. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the connector is still functional. Replacing the connector, if needed, will be a major pain due again to the limited access and the shortness of the wires. I'll post the outcome once I have installed a new resistor.
  • hdave7hdave7 Posts: 9
    To all interested parties: I ordered the resistor module (only $11.99 plus tax), picked it up today and plugged it in. It works!! Yeah!! AC fan now works at all speeds. Then I unplugged it and attempted to install it in its proper opening. No go, absolutely cannot be inserted into the opening with out bending the housing and resistor wires all out of shape rendering it useless. Great design job Chrysler. Why it was relocated to under the hood on this model from the easy to access interior location behind the glove box on other year models is a mystery unless it was to generate more dollars for the dealer repair departments. Only way to install it is to disconnect an AC coolant line which I'm not about to do since AC repair is out of my scope and Cost Really Big Dollars. Decided to use the burned out module to plug the hole thru the firewall and then fabricate a housing for the new resistor module and mount it in the engine compartment. Only concern is if the heat under the hood will adversely affect the new resistor module, causing it to fail in a sooner.
  • This is a wonderful opinion. The things mentioned are unanimous and
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    adren
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  • my questions is i have heat on driver side and cool air on passanger side on my van all time anyone has the same problems please help me in this one thank you
  • when cold out car blows out hot air then turns to cold then back to hot then back to cold and so on. While this is going on the temp meter goes from mid point back down to lowest temp and back same as the air hot cold hot cold. Whats wrong?
  • Hi. I have a 2004 Town and Country. I live in Norway and vehicle repair is EXTREMELY expensive. Very suddenly I had steam coming from the front end and could smell anti-freeze. It's been like that for several months. I add water and anti-freeze and the engine has never heated above normal range. The check engine light has been on and the heater quit blowing hot air even when the engine is hot. I usually let the van warm up for about 15min so that the temp gauge is in normal operating range. It will eventually blow hot air but only after I've started driving down the road. Any suggestions before I spend a small fortune taking it in to a garage (over $200 just to have diagnostic run on it). Thanks!
  • Sounds like simply your thermastat is broken and not opening causing a long warm up, etc. $5 part in the US and simple to do your self with moderate mechanical experience. Do Utube search on how to do it.

    p.s. It could be your actuator if the therastate is good??
  • sockitsockit Posts: 5
    I could agree with stanoski, but:
    "Very suddenly I had steam coming from the front end and could smell anti-freeze" sounds much more like an antifreeze leak. First find out where the leak is (radiator? hoses? water pump?) and repair. Then if the "no heat" problem continues, it probably is the thermostat. I recently had the "no heat" issue in our 2002 Grand Caravan 3.8. When the thermostat is stuck in the "open" position, it allows too much coolant to circulate through the engine. When the outside temperature is cold, then the engine can not warm up properly, and consequently no heat in the cabin. Replacing the thermostat on ours was very easy, hopefully 2004 is also. But repair the leak first.
  • sockitsockit Posts: 5
    Sorry such a late reply, but I just saw this thread.
    I have a 2002 GC 3.8, and have had to replace the alternator 3 times now (on my 4th unit) due to the bearing going out. The original went out at 130K miles. Replaced with O'Reileys. It's quite possible that if I replaced it with original equipment I would have better luck, but the O'Reiley's has the lifetime warranty and it's fairly easy to replace. I almost thought it was the A/C compressor, because when that was turned on the rumbling noise picked up also. But apparently the increased electrical load on the alternator caused its bearing to make more noise. I don't think you need to pack a spare, but just be prepared if you start hearing that rumbling noise from the front of the engine... The only specialty tool is the serpentine belt tool used to un-tension the belt tensioner. It needs a very thin handle in order to fit between the front of the engine (right side I guess) and the body. I rented mine from Auto-Zone, but you can buy one cheap at Harbor Freight. By the way, the O'Reiley's people where I live believe the alternator design is at fault. Take for what it's worth, but they do see a lot of "what needs to be replaced on what" go through their doors.
  • rtidrickrtidrick Posts: 2
    I hear a grrrr sound when i shut my van off. My husband says it's coming from the alternator. Does this mean i need to replace it? I have a 2002 town and country lxi 3.8.
  • sockitsockit Posts: 5
    I can only go off my own experience (I'm not a mechanic by trade). I guess you mean you hear the noise as the engine is shutting down. Not sure what that would be. When our alternator was failing (the bearings were going out) it made a grinding/growling noise while the engine was running. It would get worse as the electrical load was increased (lights, heater fan, a/c, etc) because this causes the alternator to have to work harder. If you think the noise is related to something being driven by the serpentine belt, it could also easily be the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley. Any of these isn't too hard for a shade tree mechanic to tackle. You should probably have someone experienced listen to it however, maybe two or three opinions.
  • rtidrickrtidrick Posts: 2
    Thanks for your input. I'm going to have it checked out.
  • 93949394 Posts: 67
    i had the same problem on my brand new 2011 Dodge Grand Caravan.

    the very next morning after i got it, i noticed that the frost on the windshield was melting on the driver side only, so i turned the passenger side knob all the way to cold then back to hot, problem solved, a stuck damper ?

    the next day i had the same problem except it was the driver side, the same trick fixed it.

    i haven't had that problem for 3 weeks now, either they are working or they are stuck on the hottest position now.

    .
  • mstokyamstokya Posts: 1
    I am new on this forum. I wanted to see if anyone else had some of the same problems as myself before handing the car over. And hopefully save a lot of money and stress.
    I inherited a 1994 grand caravan with a host of problems I believe are related in some way. When I saw 'switching air' I hit the nail on the head. My car does exactly that.
    The problem is I didn't see an answer to this. I am mechanically challenged so if I missed it somewhere would someone point it out. Or is there anyone who can please give me an answer.
  • While on my way home my van started making a very loud squealing / hissing noise. I was able to pull into the drive way with full power (steering) and park the van. I placed the van in park and rolled down the window, i first thought it was more of a water/steam noise. I turned off the van and opened the hood and saw that there was no water insight and it didn’t look like any hoses were broke. I started the van and my husband and i took turns trying to figure out where the noise was coming from. It seemed to be coming from the passenger side near the serpentine belt, which was intact and working. We did not notice anything broken but the noise was very loud not like a wet or loose belt.
  • Please help my 2002 limited has a problem . The A/C is turning on & off by itself, can't control it! Mostly hot air coming and fan is always on high. :sick:
    Thank you!!!!
  • Did you resolve issues with direction of air coming out of your vents on Chrysler T & C. Mine is doing the same thing, need defroster this winter.
    You can email me at johnmac12345@aol.com

    Thanks for any help u can give
  • I have the same problem on 07 T&C. It has had control module replaced twice and recently had a "software reset". All three times the failure recurred within a week. Tough to deal with winters without windshield defrost. I'm interested in any news.

    (Blower stuck on dash vents. dial shows lights moving around to different settings but air just keeps coming out dash vents)
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